subaru360

I'll go again. I hope to stay longer this time. I want to bring multiple cars this year. I think the 72 GL I did over the summer will be there also.

Aren't you in PA? The display area of your outdoor lot size needs to be for 5 cars, you don't need an indoor showroom for 5 cars for a used lot. Maybe for a new you do, but that's wayyyy outta my league. You can always invest in my lot if I ever get one. Figure 100 cars on the lot at 30K a car that's 3 mill there. Then a mill for a decent property at least, another mill for equipment costs employee salaries, then add in franchise fees, insurance, I could go on. I was a new car dealer employee for almost 15 years and I saw and leaned a lot.

Unless you have several million or the credit to borrow that much forget about opening a new car dealership. Kind of blunt, but that is the way it is. A typical small used dealership selling just subies is a whole different story, an average person can do that for an average investment. Rent or buy properly zoned land with a building. Look up your states requirements for a used car lot, follow them to the letter, apply for a license, get some insurance and a few cars to sell and you are in business. I have been working towards having my own used car lot selling subies for a few years now. I'm learning what to do and not to do to make money and making connections, finding sources for cars and parts. I have a decent system in place on a small scale now that's working well. Yes if I go big time I will give a USMB discount If you are really interested in it buy a car that needs some work and cleanup, get it ready and sell it. See if you like doing it. Most states have a limit of how many cars one person can buy or sell in a year without a dealer license, stay clear of that number and you'll be fine.

That makes me think you might like this option. Put in an EJ22, a 95 engine from an automatic is easiest, but 96-98 engines from automatics will work as well if you get the matching y-pipe. It is a direct swap. EJ22's are reliable and easy to repair. It will most likely be cheaper than repairing the EJ25. I can get the EJ22's for a few hundred around here. A few hours work and you are back on the road.

I don't know how the homelink works, but I think you got a good deal on the car.

P0440 is an evap system leak. Usually a loose gas cap, but could be a leak in the tank, filler neck or evap hoses. P0301 misfire start out by checking/replacing plugs and wires, if ok from there check coil and injector and compression test the engine.

It probably bent valves from what you are describing. It's an interference engine and it's rare to get lucky and not bend them.

Look closely at the pulley with the teeth, that is the one that usually fails. Spin the pulleys and listen for noise and look for leaking grease. The newer style swinging tensioner usually fails by leaking out the top then gets loose and bangs around.

Both tensioners take the same belt. I've mixed and matched using what I had around at the time with no issues. As far as I know there is only one belt length on EJ22 phase 1. If the tensioner looks ok at the first belt change I don't have people replace it. Second one it's not a bad idea. If it leaks replace it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120354128572

I have a 99 SUS for sale if you want an older one.

^Everything he said. 95-98 2.2 phase 1 automatic with EGR is a direct bolt on and plug in. 95 if you want to keep the existing y-pipe. Keep the EGR or you will have a check engine light.

They are getting better with the oil leaks on newer ones. My 02 wrx has almost 120 on it and doesn't leak a drop of oil. It's never been apart or had any seals changed. But I have worked on tons of 80's and 90's subies fixing oil leaks.

Way to much. I would pay $500 up to $1000 if it had a nice body. I have sold these with new head gaskets for $2500.

The kit looks right to me. Every 98 OBS I have come across had that newer style tensioner. Only way to know for sure is to have the cover off and look.

What's your location? I could be interested in the 99 Impreza.

By wrecked, do you mean in an accident? I always look for cars that have body damage when buying a used junkyard engine. At the very least you know it ran when it was hit. If it's a front hit, be sure it didn't break the timing covers or hit any accessories like the p/s a/c or alternator, the block can crack at the mounting points. A car hit in the back or side is always best to get an engine from. EJ22 in non-interference up to 96 at least. So you are good to go with a 92.

I think that JB weld repair will last 50,000 miles easily. I'd trust it to drive anywhere. If you're trying to fill in an 1/8" hole with it, it'll fail. Filling a few tiny pinholes on the deck surface is well within what it was designed to do. And as far as heads needing to be milled with every gasket job, they don't. I'll argue that one all day. Not unless they are warped and Subies rarely warp heads unless they have been cooked. The heads are too short to warp. The factory finish on the heads is much better than what your average local machine shop can do and you are better off leaving it as is. Never use a wire brush on the heads or block, just a razor blade, rags and some brake cleaner and you are good to go. Always use the latest factory gaskets on a 2.5 DOHC. On older EJ22 sohc you can get by with aftermarket.

This is on the deck surface where the gasket goes which is what I believe we are talking about and very tiny spots. The engine is still running fine last I heard. Take a pen and make a dot on a piece of paper, that's how small I'm talking about. Anything bigger it won't work. I would not even bother fixing the iron cylinder walls, at that point it's not worth it.

I have had EJ25 blocks like that, if the head gasket is leaking slightly and let go too long the block corrodes at the leak point. The really bad ones I have just scrapped. I had one with just two small spots the size of the tip of a pen. I filled those with JB weld and it held up fine. Welding is the best way to fix it and will hold up fine if it's done by a good welder and cleaned up well beforehand. You'll need to deck the block after and maybe hone if the cylinder gets out of round from heat.

The stock intake box is not that bad. Mine makes over 300 hp with it. If you do go with an aftermarket air intake it won't do much. If you get one be sure it is one with the same diameter inside as stock or it will thow off the maf scaling and it will run lean without tuning.

I think delta's price for cams is more than fair. I don't have them, but I would use them. Price some of the other cams for subies like tomei or BC and get ready for a shock!

I would clean out the idle air control valve, they get carboned up and stick. Unhook the battery to reset the ecu after it's cleaned out.

Not easily. There are many differences with the phase 1 vs phase 2 in the sensors and wiring. You can't just swap the engine harnesses over either. So it could be done, but you'd be cutting and splicing wires, the IAC would be a major problem, it's not the same at all. Oh and the last 2000 I worked on used the older style cam and crank sprockets still. The bellhousing bolts are a non-issue, just leave the 4 extra ones out.

You're right 2.2 became interference around 97 or so.