subaru360

I went a best of 13.2 with the stock turbo. I think I could have run slightly better if I had waited for cool weather. But I didn't wait and just put on a 16G turbo. I made a few runs with that and went 13.0 @106 I had put in a LW flywheel and it sucked at the dragstrip, I couldn't launch the car at all. I took that flywheel out and now expect to go at least 12.50, hopefully low 12's. Right now I have GP moto elbow, 16G, TGV deletes, sti pinks, walbro pump, GP moto header, ebay TMIC, hallman MBC, cobb DP, spt mid, sti axleback, exedy stage 1 clutch, UR pulley. I've also got megan coilovers and cusco strut and swaybars and more I can't remember now. It's a fun all around car

I usually don't change the water pump with a timing belt either. But most of the people that come to me are looking for the cheapest repairs possible. Just fix what's broken.

I've only had a boost leak once. I put on a bigger intercooler and it was leaking at the y-pipe. The fuel trims pegged at 15% it got horrible mileage, like 20 on the highway and it slowed down 6 tenths at the dragstrip.

I do a lot of these. I replace them if they are leaking, leave them go if they aren't. I don't like to cause a leak. I just pop them out with a screwdriver and drive them in with a big socket, I've never had a problem.

I made one similar to that, but mine connects to the hose right after the MAF. It lets me check for leaks at the turbo inlet as well. You don't need much pressure to find leaks, 10 PSI will usually do it. To much pressue can blow the cam seals out of the motor. If this really worries you, take the oil cap off first, makes it a little harder to find leaks with air coming out there, but you won't pop the seals out. I check for boost leaks every time I have any of the turbo plumbing off, it's very easy to cause a leak and the car runs like crap with boost leaks.

Higher RPM's on the highway, lower mpg, might ride a little harder with shorter sidewalls, plus they must look kind of small on an outback. It's not the end of the world, but I'd just go back and make them put the right size on.

Check for vacum/boost leaks, it's very common to have them. You can make up a tool to pressurize all the intercooler plumbing and the intake mainifold if you have an air compressor.

^^^ That works well. You can also get the bolts in/out with a 3/8 drive flexhead ratchet and a short socket. Let the side of the socket rest against the opening in the bellhousing for leverage. Unplug the TPS, IAC and coil wires and move them and the main engine harness plugs out of the way for extra room.

300,000 is an acomplishment to be proud of! My wrx is at 115,000 and is still like new, it's just a baby. I do have a suburban with 235,000. I refuse to give it up until 300,000 also.

Here is a tip on a 2.5>2.2 swap. When you put the TC bolts in thread them in all the way before you spin the engine over to put the next one in. The back of the 2.2 block is shaped slightly different inside the bellhousing. When you put the larger 2.5 flexplate on the 2.2 the bolts will hit the webs inside the block and lock up tight if the bolts aren't all the way in. Then you have to pull the motor back up to get it to spin. Guess how I know this?

They last a long time. I would not change it. In fact the only bad ones I've ever seen were when the car sits for years. They freeze up if the car sits around.

Buy a cable and do it yourself. Go to: http://www.romraider.com for editing software http://www.openecu.org for flashig software http://www.tactrix.com for a cable

If you change the injector size, there is no way to compensate for it with the older ECU. You'll have to run some sort of aftermarket engine management.

They seem like cool guys. I even got some free stuff from them. I also think they had some issues with the publisher or something. I don't mind waiting for the second issue.

If you want to part with the legacy EJ22 turbo shortblock for some money towards the racecar, I will buy it off you. I get up to Maine every few months.

Glad you found a quality shop to do the bodywork. Looks good so far!

The OBS scoop really works. It just has a block off plate under it. It is the same hoodscoop used on the older JDM WRX's. If you take off the block off plate, it will be functional.

Unknown, assumed to be original with 110,000 miles. I have a new one here ready to go on. I was holding off on putting it on until I was sure the engine was going to be ok. Tonight it sat for about 4-5 hours. Same deal, very slow crank took about 10 tries to start. When it did start, tapped for about 30 seconds and then ran fine. It really sounds like the timing is off or something in the engine is seizing up. Just to try it, I put known good cam, crank and coolant sensors in it to try. I didn't have a starter to match the one in it. I'll see what it does in the morning. If it doesn't start up, I'm just yanking it and putting a known good 2.2 in it. Seems kinda drastic to you guys, I know, but he needs a reliable car and I can swap engines in a few hours. I'll just swap the tune up stuff over and put the timing belt on that one.

On my wrx I have the stock airbox, but I got a GP moto silencer delete. It replaces the snorkus in the fender with an elbow. You guys might want to try adding the big scoop above the radiator from a wrx, if it fits. I have datalogged my wrx and have data that proves that the scoop does work. As you go faster the IAT drops. My car came with a cobb short intake on it. That would not drop the IAT, it stayed the same or went up. I took the intake off and put the factory box back on with the silencer delete. I think this is the best setup.

I have never seen a subie do what this one does either. I am thinking of putting in cam and crank sensors, a coolant sensor and a starter tonight. I have spares of all of them to try. If that fails, I think I am just going to put in one of my spare engines. I think this car is cursed or something. He called me and today on the way to work a rock hit the winshield and broke it, the windshield was 2 weeks old. Then the ABS light came one. :-\

The starter turns slower than normal. It sounds like an older car with over advanced timing. Other than the first start of the day it cranks normally. I have another starter to try, but doubt that is the problem.

I put a new fuel filter in it when he got the car. I put the original fuel pump from my wrx (I put a walbro in the wrx) in the OBS because the fuel pump had frozen from sitting. It did have some gunk on the sending unit, but I cleaned it off. The tank was clean inside. It had about a gallon of old gas in it, but has run through a fresh tank since then. This isn't like it's not getting fuel. It cranks slowly then fires up and taps for a bit. After that you can run it all day normally. It started up this morning, I guess. My brother in law took off with it before I got a chance to hook my laptop and look at the obd2 data.

It has walmart brand oil. I use it in everything, never had an issue. I checked and it is a 98 for sure. It doesn't look like the engine has ever been out. So it has solid lifters. We did add some oil treatment stuff last week, no improvement. It could have a leaky injector and that though occured, but I never see any smoke out the tailpipe after it starts. I would think if an injector leaked, it would have some smoke. But I can test the injectors for leaks, pressurize the fuel system, clamp off the return and see if it holds.

You won't make much more power. WRX's use the same air filter and box and can make over 300 hp with it, it's a good setup. But if you just want to make a little more noise and have some fun go for it.

OK here is a strange one. I have never come across this before. This is my bother in law's OBS. It's hard to start after it sits for a while. It cranks slow, then starts up and taps for a bit and then runs fine. He just got this a few weeks ago. I don't know a lot of history on it. It's a 98 or so, I forget, EJ22. It sat around for at least 3 years before he got it. I changed the oil and gave it a tune up when he got it. It does have a brand new battery. It has the stock fuel pump out of my wrx in it, the one it it went bad from sitting. I don't think it is a starter problem. After the initial start it will start up normally until it sits for a while. I think it's doing something wacky with the crank sensor and adding too much timing? It has that sort of over advanced timing sound when it trys to start. Then maybe just some typical subie piston slap? Or maybe the motor is getting ready to let go and spin a bearing or something. I know most of the normal subie problems, I've never quite seen this before. Ideas? I'm going to see if can hook up my laptop to it and see what the timing does cold and maybe look at the coolant temp sensor when it's cold. If I can't figure this out soon, I'm just going to toss one of my spare engines in it, I can swap them out in a few hours now.