subaru360

I just saw this ea63 posted in the craigslist section. Might be what you need and the price is right. http://sandiego.craigslist.org/pts/450031885.html

There are some internal differences like solid vs hydraulic lifters and cam and compression ratio, but they all fit in place of each other. You can put the 97 impreza 2.2 in the outback, you just need a single port y pipe from either an impreza or a legacy. When you swap motors, if you had egr, be sure the motor you swap in also has egr or you will have a check engine light with an egr code. Generally auto has egr and manual doesn't. But sometime you see a manual with egr, there were some with california emissions that had it.

You can take the valve covers off without draining the oil. All the oil sits in pan well below the valve covers.

For the 97 outback 2.5 you can use 96-98 2.5's for sure possibly more years. Everthing just plugs in and bolts up. If you want a 2.2, the 95 2.2 is a direct fit everything bolts up and plugs in except the brackets for the power steering line to the intake, not a big deal, you can just leave the bolts out or make a bracket or get 2.2 ps lines. 96-98 2.2's work also if you get the y pipe from the car you get the engine from they are single port. I've done these swaps a lot and they work out great. Not sure on the trans. But 99 should be the first year for phase 2 so you'd need a newer model. Usually if you match the final drive ratio they will work even if the part number is different as long as all the plugs are the same. Sometimes you need to get the transmission module to match the trans. How much is the outback with a bad motor? If you decide you don't want it, I buy them.

Personally I would get some old school japanese wheels (hayashi, watanabe, ssr, etc) for it in 13" or maybe 14" and adjust the torsion bars to lower it an inch or two. I would leave all the trim chrome. But's that's me, do what makes you happy.

I figured you were close to getting it running. As you run it more, it should get better, the hesitation might go away on it's own. The accelerator pump in the carb is probably dried out from sitting, it might swell up from the gas and work better. You might have to change the fuel filter again from all the junk in the lines and tank working its way free. Might want to check the timing too.

Replace or clean and gap the points. Check for power at the coil positive terminal. Test the coil or swap it with a known good one. Sounds like it's close to running.

96-99 legacy outback 2.5 automatic for sure are all 4.44 96-99 Legacy GT 2.5 auto are usually 4.44 also.

Try stant SO-93

The oil cap for your car is the same as the gas cap for a 360. People have had good luck finding them, so it shouldn't be that hard. I think stant makes one that works out.

If you take the strut bolts out to do an axle, paint a line across the upper bolt head and onto the strut. When you put it back together, line the paint marks up and the camber will not change.

I know wheel arches and flares were popular back in the day in Japan. But I've never been a huge fan of them. They look ok on some cars, like the hakosuka skyline, but I dont like them on an FF-1. But go right ahead and try the EJ swap. That would be cool. At least measure it up for everyone, to see if it's even possible. Maybe find some old school wheels that fit under the car. Oh well it's your car, do as you please.

X2 on the gray sealant. I dont use permatex brand but gray is the best stuff for anything that holds oil. Did you pull the trans just to replace the plate? That's a lot of work, I pull the motor for that, it's easier. '99 was the year subaru went to more engine to trans bolts, I think it may have been a mid year thing too, some had four some had more.

I say go for the motor swap, but don't cut the quarters.

I usually just unbolt the regulators and bend and mutilate it as needed to get the glass out. The U-pull it around here won't let batteries in the yard and won't help. Oh well.

A good scan tool will show obd2 readiness status. Some of the cheaper ones won't In PA you can have one monitor not ready and still pass emissions. You have to get an emissions sticker before the safety inspection so not much you can do there. It depends where you live as far as how picky the cops are about stickers. The local cops around here could care less, but the state troopers will give inpsection sticker tickets.

Just unhook the battery for an hour or so. Or leave it overnight and hook it up in the morning is what I do sometimes. Are you sure you don't have a problem causing the code to set again as soon as you clear it?

I think the seller has the 360 and the FF-1 signal switches mixed up. The one he listed for the FF-1 looks like my 360 one. Some of the other parts seem to be listed wrong too.

I think the price is kind of high, but not totally out of line. At a used car lot it wouldn't be too bad, a private seller it high. I sold a '97 LSI wagon for $2000 with around 130,000. The market isn't as good, at least here in PA for regular legacy wagons, everyone wants the outbacks.

If you ever get out to PA, you could check Harry's U pull it. There are 3 of them in PA, the huge one is in Hazelton. Most of the time they pull the back seat up and take the senders out to drain subaru tanks. They don't keep inventory or ship, so you'd have to go look. There's also also A-Z in new ringgold which is huge and has tons of old subaru's.

Use a length of pipe on the end of the breaker bar if you don't have an impact gun and compressor strong enough to break them loose.

search http://www.car-part.com This will bring up parts in junkyards near you.

The older ones might be different. I've never had one of those apart. I'm sure somebody else will know.

You didn't say what your working on. But I just pulled the harness out of a 96 outback and I had to take the heater box out to get it out. Also the box wont slide forward until the hoses are off.

I live over in Fleetwood. I can probably help you out of your problems. I work on Subaru's a lot. If you don't know the history of the 2.5 with head gasket issues I wouldn't put money into it, like you said, no way to know how many times it was overheated. I would do the swap to a 2.2 like somebody else mentioned. This is probably the cheapest way out of your problem. I've done 4 of these swaps and it works great. I work from home and I actually have 2 of the ones I did still here I could show you. If your interested send me a PM and we can talk, it's not an expensive job, neither is a used transmission if needed down the road.