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TeamCF

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Everything posted by TeamCF

  1. SCC did new car (I think it was a 350 Z) with some industrial strength stuff a few years back. Sprayed it in all the cavity areas of the unibody. Guess the hardcore stuff adds rigidity without adding much weight. Never tried it myself though.
  2. HA! Went down to the U-pull it in Damascus. They had ONE dist that was like mine. (lots of Nippondenso's, mines Hitachi) But it's like brand new! Zero bushing play. And only $29! I got lucky. Tach no longer jumps. Engine no longer has a knocking/banging sound. Still idles kinda rough, gonna do wires cap and rotor now too. (plugs are new, wires are crap, cap & rotor worn from contacting each other) Now I can put the old one on the shelf and keep it for a future rebuild if needed. Off topic, but if anyone wants/needs a hatch body they had a nice red one in there that looked totaly straight and original. It was gutted but the shell looks good for anyone needing to replace a beat up body. Don't know what the policy is on hauling out shells though. Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction. I kept overlooking the dist.
  3. Ah. I did not know about the tricky bushings on these. Kinda hoping they were just snugly pressed in there. Thanks for the heads up.
  4. Mine has been giving me grief since the day I bought it. But I love it. Proly helps that it's only an off road play toy and not my daily driver. Wish I would have gotten one sooner.
  5. Yeah, I just really don't want to spend the $$$ on a whole new one (are new ones still out there?), but will go in that direction if it's just not worth it on these distributors (rebuilding that is). My Volvo was like a new car after I did it, and it only cost me a few bucks and some time. The tune is coming as well. (other than it does have new plugs)
  6. I took a look back and didn't see info on this mentioned. So back in a previous post about my car dying at lights I mentioned that my tach was jumping. It was brought to my attention that it proly means my dist is going south. well took of the cap and yes you can grab the rotor and move it side to side quite a bit. So should I obtain new bushings and clean it up and rebuild it myself (bushings are cheap, had to do it on my old Volvo). Or just suck it up and pick up a re-man from the parts store? (also thought about junkyards) Thanks for any advice. I just want to make the right purchase the first time.
  7. Huge plumes of smoke?! Sounds like my old RX7 (which I still need to rebuild but thats another forum). My neighbours are used to it. And I live out in the country so they are far enough away. I'll try that. (both methods) I found my idle screw was backed out as well, the spring is not good or something and it's super easy to wiggle/turn. So I'll look for a better spring. Just readjusting the idle has already helped, it was seeming like it was lowering itself over time. (always the thing you least suspect) Everything else on the carb checked out good. (choke, anti diesel, ect.) And yeah I'll stick with the cardboard. I know all about backfires and I'm not about to get in ones way. The parts store in sandy has the Seafoam, but not MMO (out of stock). So I guess I'll give that a try, heard good stuff about it too.
  8. Get that house done and go for it! I waited too many years to get an old GL. Didn't even know what I was missing. Couldn't imagine not having one now.
  9. Well once we both get our cars figured out we'll have to hit it up. I'm hoping to get some sort of exploring in this weekend if hangovers permit. (party and three good friends are DJing at a club saturday)
  10. Always hear about the stuff but never tried it. Maybe I'll have to give it a go.
  11. Thanks. I'll look into that as well. Looks like I have a busy night ahead of me.
  12. I'll check that. It does seem to be more of a problem once its warmed up a bit. I noticed it also will not do it if I can let of the gas and coast for a few seconds before pushing in the clutch. Then it's fine. Guess I just need to really look into an underhood overhaul and freshen everything up. 305,000+ miles, it's about time.
  13. Nice. That needs to go in MY car...
  14. Yeah the guy that told me it was a nice run said that the road was kinda gone in a few spots. Said that there is a trail alongside that drops down and then comes back up to the "main" road. I've not been up to goat mountain. Just found a map that shows the area where it is but have not been up yet. Gotta fix my stalling problem (proly fuel filter) and try to get a front alignment done. After cranking the suspension up my toe is messed up. Hard to turn and my new tires are showing wear on the front and I have only put like 1,000 miles on them. I have to wait to have it done though cause I just had a good output of $$$ for other things. So I'll just keep driving it in the dirt till then. Good luck with DEQ! Hopefully we can hit the trails soon. I hope to have the fuel thing figured out/done this friday night.
  15. Thanks! I'll look into the disributor. And clean out the tank. Ran a bunch of cleaner through the carb when I bought it but it could need it again if anything got in.
  16. So my old 83 GL is dying whenever I stop in traffic. It's got a manual trans. A recent valve adjustment. Starts up just when you touch the key in the morning. The previous owner put plugs, wires, cap and rotor in to sell it. (though I'm not liking the missmatched wires) I'm thinking of replacing the crusty looking coil (and the wires). It always seems to miss and the tach is constantly jumpimg around,...and it's just all rusted and crusty, time for a new one. And definitely the fuel filter/s this weekend. I'm thinking the fuel filter is the main problem, causing too much restriction at idle. The car sat for a long time and now I'm pounding it around in the dirt so there is proly alot of crud getting stirred up in the tank. But anyway, are there any things that I'm missing? Maybe something that is the most common cause on these cars for this? It just started doing this this past weekend on the way home from the RallyCross. Other than that it runs like it always did. But is sometimes hard to restart. I'm gonna go ahead with the normal obvious stuff. Any words of wisdom would rock.
  17. It was fun times other than the dust. Don't think I placed very high though. Oh well. I was writing points off this season off anyway. Got my trophy last year. Still way more fun than it should be though.
  18. Also I've been thinking of taking Forest Road 4610 all the way from Estacada to Timothy Lake. From there up to Government Camp, or back to Estacada. (Or this could be done in reverse) I've been told by other wheelers around there that is a pretty cool drive and it does get gnarly at points but a stock subie should (when a guy with a bronco with 36 in. tires is like "it's easy!" 'should' really is the key word) be able to handle it, but it would not be passable in a 2wd car. Kind of more of a run with a set destination instead of just randomly roaming around (which is also fun). And that route takes ya past the gravel pit area with a bunch of hill climbs. As long as there are not a bunch of guys shooting in there. 4610 also takes ya through the Sqaw Mtn. area. (I've not been that far yet but it's on my map)
  19. Sounds good. I have a RallyCross on the 7th of october. But as far as I know thats the only sunday I already have plans for.
  20. Cool. I might go out some this saturday during the day and scope some more stuff. If ya get your Brat done maybe next weekend. I think I got something going on saturday night but earlier in the day I'll be free..... I think. Gotta go over the schedule. MY girlfriend is a DJ and I know we have a bunch of stuff the next few weeks going on.
  21. I almost painted it camo. But the cans of camo colors were kinda spendy and I thought I'd need a ton of paint. Turns out I only used 8 cans of $1.99 budget stuff (I bought about 30 cans, but my girlfreind wants me to paint her car now to, so I'll use it). Coulda went for the camo. But flat black tends to hold on to the dirt (I scrubed that hood twice), so It will proly look camo after awhile. I based my amount of paint on SCC's article when they painted a new STI flat black. They used like 22 cans. They also got into doors and such and used 2 coats. I did the fast mask and shoot, one coat deal. Holding up really good though. Except where I missed spots with the sander.
  22. Thanks! Best part of it is I can go out and roll around in the woods for a few hours, cover almost 100 miles, and only use about $8 in gas. I love that little 1.8. I'll go check that out.
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