ScottG

I recommend Robinair gauges, the best ones, I think. I've lived for 20 years with cheap gauges (plastic faceplates fell off, got clogged with oil, etc.). The problem is: unless you do a fair amount of auto AC work, you'll never amortize the cost of really nice AC gauges. I've had pretty good luck with a set from Harbor Freight ($39.95). You just have to be careful not to knock them around too much. You can also use the engine of your Subie to pull a vacuum on the AC system before recharging. Years ago, a friend gave me the compressor from an old chest-type freezer. I made it into a nice vacuum pump & have used it on cars and home AC systems. Almost anything with an operating compressor (refrigerater, dehumidifier, freezer), can lend itself to use as a vacuum pump. Your local Advance Auto store or Autozone will probably have a basic manual on car AC systems. I seem to remember picking up my first AC bok there in 1985 (yeah, I've been fooling with car AC for a long time - since the days of cheap R-12). Remmber to keep everything very clean when working on AC. It takes only a few bits of crud to clog everything up. I always replace the 'O' rings, for instance, when I open any AC line. Don't forget to add the proper amount of oil to the system if you've had a leak. Trying to figure this is where a good basic car AC book comes in. There's also a ton of info on line & in your local library, should you not be able to spring for good reference material. ScottG

Another way to pull a vacuum is to use the engine of your Subie. Connect a 'T' in one of the vacuum lines (below the throttle plate) & hook that to your low side gauge. It will pull about 29 inches of mercury in 5 minutes or less. As has been already posted, the vacuum should be pulled for at least a half hour (I generally go for 45 to 60 minutes). Anyway, this method eliminates the need for a special vacuum pump & I think it's a really neat way of doing things. A few years ago, I found a Mercury dealership in my hometown using this method when replacing AC compressors, driers, leaky lines, etc. ScottG

I can think of only a couple of reasons for the compressor to bog the engine down to the extent you have explained: one, the Nipper has already hit on, & that is, your compressor is in the process of seizing up. The other is that you had way overcharged the system & that's what caused the front seal to leak. And, yes, there are specialized tools required to remove & replace that seal. I've tried to change a couple of them, but always wind up getting a re-built compressor. & think that the better trail to take on this project is to: (1) remove the compressor & the filter/drier. (2) get some AC flush from your local auto parts store, & inject it into each open tube, followed by compressed air to push it through. I've done a couple of these, & you'd be amazed at the crap that comes out. (3) It will take some figuring, because most of the oil in the system will be in the compressor & the filter/dryer. (4) It will be easiest to replace both the compressor & the dryer, inject the full amunt of oil called for, vacuum the system for an hour, fill with the proper amount of R-134, & viola! you are cool for the summer. Be sure not to overcharge the system. Check the specifications to see how many ounces of oil & refrigerant are called for. Exceeding the specified amounts will almost surely cause the compressor to blow its seals. Good luck, & keep your cool ScottG

It's time I came out of the shadows on this thread to tell you that I am the owner of the Forester Mike has been so faithfully working on. I've only helped; he did the vast majority of the work. The trip to PA was a breeze, except that my Fozzzie has no cruise control. So I really had to drive it all the time. I probably could have gotten better MPG with a CC. As it was: 28.61 on the trip up; 22.98 for 4 days running around in town, and 28 even on the trip back (with my older sister & her luggage aboard + the AC going. I am totally pleased with the vehicle. It used no oil, coolant, or transmission fluid on the entire trip, which covered about 480 miles. It was a good test, a maiden voyage, & completely successful. Many, many thanks to all of you who wrote words of encouragement & hope. One final question: will the cruise control from an Outback, Imprezza, or Legacy (95-98) bolt in & plug right up to a '98 Fozzie?? ScottG

My experience has been that if a system requires recharging annually, that filling the system with fresh R134 that contains a dye can help locate leaks. I was in Advance Auto Parts just today & noticed they now carry a blacklight flashlight to easliy see where injected dye leaks out. It's always best to find & fix the leaks, rather than continuing to dump refrigerant in the system. Most modern car HVAC systems automatically run the AC compressor when in DEFROST mode. This not only clears the windshield faster during cool humid days, but exercises the compressor & keeps the seals oiled & pliable. If you don't use the defroster very much, run in the AC mode for 15 or 20 minutes each week. If the system is tight, this exercise will keep it that way. If the sytem isn't tight, inject R134 with dye, find & fix the leak. Then the system has integrity & you'll never have to wonder if there's enough refrigerant in your system. ScottG

'86 GL 2WD wagon with SPFI, 5 spd - 174K on the clock 70K engine from e-bay recently installed. Running 175X65X13 tires Last trip to Virginia to Pennsylvania & back - 35.10 MPG I can get 35 MPG as long as I stay under 3K on the tach (about 61 MPH) Using the cruise control helps MPG on the highway, I think. Getting 28 & 29 around town, driving gently, shifting at 2800 RPM I'm considering switching to 155X80X13 tires for better MPG Tire size & tread may have a greater impact on MPG than we think. And take the crossbars off the roofrack. Make the exterior as slick as possible. Take Thule & Yakima racks off when not in use. I really believe we would all be able to get better MPG if our fuel were all gasoline & not 10% ethanol. Alcohol just doesn't have the 'kick' gasoline has. I've also noticed a drop in the MPG on my other vehichles since ethanol was introduced.

Two areas to focus on in cases where there's hesitation or a 'dead spot' just after pulling away from a stop: 1) Check the TPS adjustment , and, 2) Check the PCV valve. Even if it's only partially plugged up, it will act like a bad accelerator pump in a carbed vehicle. Oftentimes, one of these two is the culprit. Best of luck ScottG

Same thing happened to me twice on my '86 GL Wagon.....the voltage indicator just starts to drop....until you suddenly notice the gauge. And BTW, my Soob has a CHARGE light on the far left of the dash. It comes on when the key is in the RUN position, just before START. After the engine starts, the light goes out.........but the 2 times the alternater failed, THE BLASTED LIGHT NEVER CAME ON!!! What's with that????? Anyone else ever have that happen on an SPFI EA82?? A bright red light catches your eye a whole lot faster than a slowly sinking volt gauge.

I would be another VA Sube nut.....right in chesterfield County, just west of Richmond. So pleased that someone started a thread to contact USMB members in VA. Would anyone be intereseted in getting together in Central VA, say in the Spring.......I'm thinking about putting something together, say at Pocahontas State Park, where we could show our Soobs & talk up close & personal.....show each other some of the improvements we've made to our cars & generally make a Soob day of it. Anyone like the idea??

There are 2 things that will speed up the operation of your windows a bit, but cold weather tends to slow them down. One: remove the inner door panels + the plastic liner. Be careful when you do this - your Subiee's panels are old fiberboard and will easily break. Use an automotive panel removal tool, if you can find one.......looks like a wide 'U' with a handle, and will easily remove the pop-out plastic buttons from the metal part of the door without tearing the fiberboard of the door panel. Spray white grease (the aeresol kind) onto the plastic pieces that run in the tracks at the window's very bottom. Spray the 'X' of the metal scissirs that connect to the plastic pieces. Run the window up & down so that you can see the tracks & 'X'. There are several miniature rollers at the top of the door that hold the glass & keep it from wobbling. I use a pin oiler on those rollers. If you try the spray grease, you're likely to get it all over the glass & that makes a mess to clean up. While you've got the door panels off, this is the perfect time to do some rustproofing of the door bottoms. I've had pretty good luck vacuuming the junk out of the bottom of the door & spraying it with Extend (you can get it at the parts store). Two: And this is the thing that REALLY slows the windows down (especially the driver's window. There is a layer of felt along the inside top edge of the rubber at the top of the door panel. This felt has probably worn away & left a layer of adhesive in its path. The window, instead of sliding on the felt, is now trying to roll the rubber strip under as the window descends, and up as the glass rises...really slows things down. While you have the door panels off, check that felt. If it's worn away, buy new felt, cut it into thin strips, and use trim adhesive (get it at the parts store) to attach it over the worn away stuff. Unless the window motors are worn from exerting great effort over the years, this set of procedures ought to have your windows rising & falling like new Hope this helps .....& good luck ScottG

I thought of one more thing that I don't think has been addressed - the thermostat. How's your heater working? If it's not nice & toasty, you may need a new thermostat because the old one may be partially stuck in the open position. This will keep the fuel enrichening circuit open, dumping lots of gas into the injector Get a new 180 or 195 degree thermostat from the dealer & see if that helps. If cash is short, use some cardboard to partially block the radiator (this is just to test - don't let this last for more than a test drive), to see if you get rid of that 'rich exhaust smell' you mentioned. It may also get rid of that 'dead spot' in the accelerator, as well as greatly improve MPG. I just thought of something else - your catalytic converter. Check your exhaust for free flow. Hope all the advice you've been getting has helped. ScottG

dhise has already hit almost all the points I was going to make. Just one more thing i can think of: proper adjustment of the TPS. Refer to your Haynes or Chilton's for the proper procedure.

This thread is like the Energizer Bunny.......it just keeps going & going & going & going.....and it should.......for all us Soob owners have constant new tales to tell. Last Friday, my '86 wagon developed a shrill sqeal under the hood. I drove the 30 miles home & the noise got no worse. Called USMB member MJDC, who diagnosed it as a frozen tesioner/idler on the driver's side timing belt. He came over at 7PM this evening, after a full day at the office, & helped me install a spare........someone said it earlier in this thread.....Suby is the only car that comes with friends. And these are not 'fair weather' friends..it was right at freezing as this repair got underway. An hour later, the engine purred. I've read all the inputs to this thread & I don't know if we're a cult, the first church of Subaru, a 12 steps to Suby success program, or what....but I like it,...I like it,.....I like it. Those who post answers to questions, go out of their way to help, provide information, parts, ideas for improvement, set aside their own agendas for the larger agenda of helping keep another old Soob out of the recycle yard & on the road........that's us........the great strength of the USMB!!! Been working on engines for 40 years & still dumb as a box of rocks -ScottG

It appears that the diode pack in your alternator has gone to electrical heaven......happened to me 3 months ago. Is your voltmeter on the dash showing way aove normal?? I'm talking 16-18 volts. That what mine indicated. I put in my spare alternator - 20 minute job.

Don't feel badly at all....I can't tell you all the stupid stuff I've done. Been working on engines for 40 years, & I'm still dumb as a box of rocks!! I'm proud that you posted.....confession is good fore the soul! (And posting it might keep someone else from making the same mistake... & that's one of the great strengths of the USMB) ScottG

And when the oil never warms up, not only does performance suffer, the places in the engine that need hot oil, may not get that oil. And the real biggie: oil pans tend to accumulate condensation, especially in the winter cold. Oil + water make a really bad combination for lubrication.....and a really nice mess for sludging. Furthermore, your PCV valve is likely to plug up with some really pretty yogurt-like glop. Get a new PCV valve from the dealer. Check you t-stat - get a new one, (at least a 180 degree one), from the dealer......don't waste your money on aftermarket stats & PCV valves. Your engine needs at least 160 to 180 degrees of internal oil temp for minimum efficiency, 190 in some engines.

I remember reading an article back in the early '80s, when VW introduced the water-cooled flat 4 wasserboxer in their vans. The article revealed that one of the reasons VW was making this change was that the squirrel-cage fan on the air cooled model used up some 4 or 5 HP, while the water pump used something like only .3 or .4 HP. Using this as a basis for argument, you won't gain any usable HP from the change. Electric pumps, as has been pointed out, can be unreliable & they will use more power than you'd save. And my last argument: you won't be able to have the pump cycle off & on with a temp switch. Coolant circulation is needed as soon as the engine starts to warm up (within a minute or 2). Waiting until the thermostat opens will ruin the engine from the hot spots created due to lack of circulation. Sooby engineers created a great piece of machinery to move their cars. It can be improved upon.....but I'm fairly certain that an electric water pump would not be one of them. If you insist upon an electric pump, check the racing & hot rod magazines. I've seen ads for them there. Sorry for throwing cold water on your idea - I just don't see it as practical. Sooby water pumps are probably one of the more reliable parts of the engine.

If you're carbed, & doing a lot of around town driving in cold weather - well, that's a formula for crummy MPG....but there is hope! 1. Make sure the choke is opening. There should be some electric or vacuum mechanism to open it...not sure which carb you have. 2. If you can adjust the choke, make sure it opens as soon as the power is tractable (able to deliver fairly usable power w/o choke) 3. I have a sneaky suspicion that your choke is the culprit - that would account for the 'dead spot' in your aceleration. 4. There may be some other problem w/ the carb: jets, float level, crud that managed to get through your fuel filter, etc. Check the float bowl to see that float is set correctly and that no crud is plugging things up.

A couple of other things to check: 1. TPS - this could be the cause of the 'dead spot' in acceleration. Adjust to spec. 2. PCV Valve - been known to cause horrendous drivability problems when plugged up. Get a new one from Subaru. Aftermarket ones are chancy. Should be changed as part of your regular tune-up, along w/ plugs, etc. Check the big vac lines to see if they've gotten plugged up 3. Vacuum leaks - have you checked all your vac lines. a vac leak will kill your MPG. Replace cracked rubber vac lines. If you're not sure, $7 worth of rubber tubing from NAPA or wherever, will pretty much replace all your lines. 4. tires - what kind of pressure are you carrying? Put at leat 30 psi in each tire. 5. oil - what weight oil are you using? stuff like 20w50 in New England winters will kil your MPG 6. thermostat - are you running at least a 180 degree thermostst? Is it opening properly? Do you have enough heat in the wagon? The temp must be high enough to shut down the fuel enrichening circuit...otherwise, crappy MPG When did your MPG start to fall?....was it gradual, over 3 or 4 tanks of gas?....or was it very sudden & dramatic, like a drop from 25 MPG to 12 lterally overnight?.......Did this occur after you changed plugs, etc?

Way to go, Brian!! Glad you were able to save the old compressor. And, you have the satisfaction of having done the repair yourself (well, almost - but at least you kept it out of the shop). A friend with a small hand is always handy to have when working in some tight Sooby spaces. I'm anxious to hear about the cooling ability of your sustem, come July & August. Mine's pretty minimal - but I've changed it to R-134, which supposedly has less cooling ability in units designed for R-12. I'm going to completely flush my system in the Spring & try to install an additional condenser under the bumper. The secret to getting more cooling inside is often getting rid of more heat outside. I'll let you know how things go. ScottG

I got my trailer hitch used. But I Googled 'trailer hitch for Subaru' & got quite a few hits. Check out the following: http://www.racepages.com/parts/subaru.html They've got Class I hitches for 80-86 Soobs for $42.95 advertised - sweet!

Why don't you get a hitch designed for the Soob? I got one for my '86 GL Wagon. I pull a small trailer with my riding mower on it....does great. ScottG

I checked the specifications under "80s", & found an 84 GL Wagon (EA81), has 73 HP@4800RPM, normally aspirated and 95 HP@4800RPM with FI and a turbocharger. Don't know if that FI is SPFI or multiport. Didn't see any specs on EA81 with FI only & no turbo. Go through the Specifications section carefully to see if there might be some more examples. My quick check saw none. ScottG

One other thing to check - one that threw me for a loop when I first encountered it, is the puser system - that weird thing that hangs like a hood over the end of the compressor clutch. The 3 prongs that stick out of the clutch are counted by the pulser as they spin by. The rate is compared to engine RPM and if something is out of kilter, the puser shuts the clutch down. My compressor was downright noisy when I first got it working. The noise was due to the pulser kicking the clutch in & out every few nanoseconds. The prongs on the edge of the clutch should have just a few thousandths clearance at the pulser head. Make sure the pulser head is properly adjusted. I had to take mine off & elongate the screw (bolt) hols a bit to get enough 'wiggle room' to adjust it. I have several A/C manuals. If you want to further exchange info, write me at: fordveight@verizon.net Hope this helps ScottG

Check the USMB Marketplace & see if anyone has one for sale. If non is up for sale, post your need under 'WANTED' Before you cast the old compressor aside, run a few checks. Is the system cooling pretty well? Is the refrigerant at the proper pressure? Are both fans working when the compressor is on? Is the condensor plugged up with leaves & aardvark clippings? Is the evaporator pluugged up...got good airflow inside from the vents?? Notice any refrigerant/oil leaks at the hose couplings? Just a couple of things to check before tossing in the towel. Best of luck Scott G