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audio_file

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Everything posted by audio_file

  1. here's a few from my camera . . . . . . of course, i didn't get the chance to take a lot of pics, i was too busy keeping everybody else busy diggin me out for that first little bit :-\ thanks to everyone again for the help, i ended up having a really good time!! chris
  2. Jeeebus! what do people on the USMB not know?!! (blownt away!!) chris
  3. welcome to the USMB! in short, yes an ea81 is a "H4" design, as apposed to say a V6 or inline 4. the "5" has to do with your vin number, if it has that 5 in a particular place in the vin or not decides exactly which ea81 variation you have i, like everyone else here, will recommend that you use the search function at the top of the screen, there is much information to be found here, if you are willing to do some digging! good luck chris
  4. correct btw glwagonman, your disty may not be the same as mine, again there are two different distributors used commonly in our car, one is a nippon denso, i believe the other is a hitachi (?) at any rate, double check that you have the correct parts (make sure it fits and seals tightly) because the numbers on the cap won't mean anything if the cap is wrong, and my cap may be different than yours. chris
  5. ROFL love it Nice looking Hatch markjw! i bought the magnaflow y pipe and then found Bosal Brospeed subie performance muffler on the bay of e, makes my E82 sound like an STi i love the way boxer engines sound!!
  6. thanks for the efforts! *fingers and toes x'd* chris
  7. i think it has more to do with the amount of 10-40w in your blood than age too many different engines to remember!! chris
  8. looking at the engine from the front left front plug #1 right front plug #2 left rear plug#3 right rear plug#4 is your cap numbered? looking at my cap like a clock: wire for #1 is at 1o'clock on the cap (again facing the front of the engine) wire for #2 is at 7 o'clock wire for #3 is at 11 o'clock wire for #4 is at 4 o'clock
  9. sounds dumb but make sure they gave you the right cap and rotor . . . napa's given me the "non-denso" type when i needed the denso fitting unit, there are a few different types for our model car chris
  10. i'm in*. chris *i've never been to the mentioned region, in reading descriptions on PNW4WDA's trail descriptions, it looks to me like my ol' subiewagon should be fine for 2 or 3 of the listed trails. please correct me if i am incorrect about this (anybody who's actually been there and done that). if i can at least run 2 or 3 of the trails, and support a good cause, i'm there baby!
  11. ^+1 and every member here has proven google right on. my dad was a mechanic, and because of this i learned at a young age the difference between a "tech" and a true mechanic / car nut, who fiendishly trades skin for grease with these vehicles, some of them just for fun. those people (like GD, skip, grossgary, cougar, qman and too many others to list) have knowledge that no "tech" will ever have, and are happy to share it with those of us who they know will put it to good use because of a shared passion for these machines. (unless it's like the millionth time a noob asks the same ? instead of searching ) my soob brings a smile to my face, USMB brings knowledge to my brain (some of you guys are pretty funny too )
  12. do you remember the name? b.t.w., last time i walked through farrells up here in mt. vernon they had a nice assortment of subies (mostly 80's). the guy behind the counter was a bit "cold/prickley" but that was probably just because i'd never been there before . . . anything specific somebody needs that is a common j.y. item i'd be more than happy to go check for it/grab it! chris
  13. i'm sure you'll soon get an easier answer, but you can check the alternator's output with a multimeter . . . good luck, i love your son's nickname for the wagon!
  14. thanks guys! love the pic of the soobmarine
  15. this was the correct diagnosis for my car when it was doing the same thing, easy way to tell if it's the thermoswitch is to remove the plug from the back of the thermoswitch and just use a piece of wire to "bridge" the two leads in the plug together . . . if the fan turns on immediately your thermoswitch is toast. cheap and easy to fix!!! if you get nada from the fan, time to investigate more deeply. your low temp while driving is simply due to the cold air cooling the engine sufficiently chris
  16. thanks, i will, anything else need sealing? with the carbed engine, the air cleaner assembly should be high enough right? (i removed the little rubber sleve that connects it to the tube down in the fender to prevent sucking up water on previous excursions ) aside from that it's just about not submarineing the disty/alternator/coil right? thanks chris
  17. Belated Welcome!!! that sambar is sick, where'd ya pick that up at? nice whls b.t.w. chris
  18. replaced valve cover seals 3k ago on my ea82 wagon with napa's set (with gromets) and they are already starting to seap a bit. same with napa's oil pan and auto trans pan gaskets. i did the installs by the book, stripped and cleaned all surfaces of old gasket material, torqued all bolts to proper lbs/ft, everything just so that i wouldn't have to worry about doing it again any time soon. might just be typical of the engine though, i.d.k. :-\ from now on, i'll go o.e.m. with everything, regardless of price diff. chris
  19. cool . . . i <3 puddle jumpin, getting into water above the doors (just below all the electrical b.s. and intake) running through the mud until the ruts are deeper than my car , and anything else that could be considered "negligent" and i have the tickets to prove it (from doing too much drifting/donuts back in my G35 days :-\ )
  20. ok, i've got a question. are there any "mudding" trails in this off road park that a guy who's not a complete moron will be able to transverse in a semi-stock 4wd wagon? all of the latest posts make this place sound like it's nothing but rock crawling (either because this is the case, or because some of you are worried about babysitting some idiot who breaks their car doing something they shouldn't) i'm not that moron, but if this place is beyond my car's capabilities, i'd like to know that before i drive down. chris
  21. my wagon had a replacement pump on it when i got it at 110k . . . my suggestion would be to make sure the pump is grounded well (leaky hoses can cause a huge mess that's non condusive to a good ground) and also if you have a multimeter, make sure the positive line isn't grounding against the body, eliminate all you can before replacing pump, i think those are kinda expensive:eek:
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