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Hodaka Rider

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Everything posted by Hodaka Rider

  1. All EA-82's have two valves per cyl. 1 intake, 1 exhaust. To run a spider manifold, you must have MPFI heads. An SPFI manifold will bolt right on in place of a carb manifold. It will also bolt on to an EA-81 carb block.
  2. Not true. But you're right, it's not a good idea to run it without any exhaust bolted up. Won't harm anything it you're just firing it for a few seconds, though.
  3. Still sounds like a vac issue to me. Unless there's something else wrong with your brakes, and it's totally unrelated. Is is possible your booster is shot?
  4. I would think you'd be into $400 minimum. $100-$200 for the PP/Disk (unless you talk them into just the disk, but I'd recommend full kit). 2-3 hours labor (not sure what you pay per hour there). Plus grinding and misc.
  5. I'm not sure. My name is on the list, but I have not recieved a reply to my PM's regarding shipping, etc. As shown in the thread, they apparently PM'D me, but I never got that PM. I then emailed them, and have not seen a reply to that, either. Really want to get my stuff, but I'm not about to give out a credit card number without first recieving a total. There were also some other items in my PM's and email that were not answered. Guys: James was usually very good about communication, please do not spoil his record.
  6. Have you upgraded all your ground wires, and made sure they're getting a really good connection? Some people have even added extra grounds to good effect. This is actually a fairly common fix to fuel injection / ignition problems.
  7. I haven't looked too hard, but it doesn't look like it would be much more difficult than an EA-82 or new-gen. If I could get one cheap enough, I'd definitely want to lift it.
  8. Well . . . If I could get a whole car in running, sellable order for that much . . . I could sell it for more than that here and have some more cash to dump into the project! Or I could use the engine / trans from it to throw into mine.
  9. Yup, it's a little extra work to replace Mickey, but that's what usually causes the TOD. When it gets old, it can cause the pressure side to leak to the suction side, and not feed full pressure to the rest of the engine.
  10. Well, some of the yards around here are crazy. There are no chain-type yards, just mom 'n pops. The one I got the price from yesterday seems pretty honest - they based their price on what one of the bigger yards charges, and cut it in half. I saw a price online for one of the yards in a neighbouring town : $1250. Really. So, I really don't want to do a full rebuild on mine, as it will cost me over $700 in parts to do right (oil pump=$200!!). I either need a cheap J/Y engine in running order, or a shortblock that's good to do a head job/reseal on.
  11. I believe we need some clarification on the harness. How much of the harness do we need to take from the donor Legacy? It seems some people are taking the entire car harness out (ouch!) and some are just taking the engine compartment harness up to the ECU.
  12. Wow. Are those prices for engines that are guaranteed to run? I just got told $500.
  13. Mk1 Scirocco's are a very sweet little car. They handle exceptionally well, and you can drop most of the newer VW engines in with a little work. If it is truly in such good shape, and you can get it, put it somewhere it won't rust and save some money for a built old-style engine (GTI or 16V) or a newer 1.8t (a little heavier, but way more power). You could put a VW syncro system in it for AWD, but that's a fairly complex and potentially expensive job.
  14. I like mine. Canadian Loyale's don't have the silly auto seatbelts, either.
  15. Well, we finally got the engne on the stand last night, and boy was it fun! We had already discovered that several T-belt teeth had come off - now we know why. The oil pump had completely seized!! So bad, that the pulley for it spun before the engine actually quit. Not positve, but the engine may have actually been run with NO oil in it. (the drain plug was not in, but someone else had actually started to work on the engine before we got to it. They may have drained the oil) Anyways, the engine sat for most of the year with no spark plugs in it, so the cyls are full of crap (on the side we took the head off of, anyways) It'll be either a J/Y swap or a full rebuild, haven't decided which yet. I'm still planning on doing the EJ-22, but I have not been able to find one to my liking yet. (hence leaning towards J/Y swap). I may also go with a CCR rebuilt, if I know I can sell it to someone when I'm done with it next year. Pictures to come!
  16. Sorry dude, for some reason I have not received that PM. Maybe email me? miked-at-subarubrat.com
  17. That's your ignition coil. Feeds high voltage to the spark plugs. (actually, it converts 12v to over 20,000v, then feeds it to the distributor, which in turn feeds it to the spark plugs, but you get the idea.) If you have spark jumping around there, you need to clean up all the rust and corrosion on it with a brass brush. You may even want to replace the cap, rotor, coil, plugs and wires to be sure that all of the spark energy is getting where it's supposed to. (often spark jumping around like that is caused by worn out parts. If you replace them all at once, you don't have to worry about one good new part exaggerating the problems with the remaining bad parts and stranding you) Plus, you should have a better running, more fuel efficient engine at the end!
  18. Geez, my list is short. Bajavwnsoobnut Mudrat79 Rossta (old board name. not sure what his new one is, he's not around here much) Rguyver I tried to meet up with others (Zap, Lumpycam, bbbs53, Zefy, few others) My dad met Baccaruda. I hope to meet Vanislru when he comes up this winter. Really too bad more people don't come up here to 'wheel, lots of good places to explore.
  19. Wow, this is a pretty interesting problem. I'm guessing the one-piece units will be a little more resistant to this problem? The torsional load will be lessened by the three pieces being tied together, right?
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