Knichol

WOW, I leave the site for a year or so and come back to a creation like this! That is great! I'd love to see it in action.

Does anyone know where you can get the washers that go behind the castle nut on the front hub? I am sure they have a specific name I am just not that savy to know it. (Besides the dealer - they have them for an arm an leg and have to order them)

Does anyone know if you can remove the hub assembly off of the front of the AC compressor and not lose the charge?

Are there any AC experts that are part of our forum? If so, please PM me or post a reply. Thank yoU!

You need another nissan tcase? I have one forsale! I am probably a week away for those tires.

John told me the same thing and it may be true, but when he first told about it he said it was kinda secret how he didn't want others finding out. He then went on to say it and was very difficult and thats why I should hire his services. Then I find out that the new and old front diffs are the same and they make them that fit right in, so know knows... :-\ Back to topic of thread... I have drove a welded diff for quite a bit on street and off. turning sharp you will end up churping tires and if your get into a muddy/snowy situation it tends to push you straight. The LSD works well until you get difference in grip. These LSD's are not as strong grip wise as the ones you maybe used to in american muscle cars or pickups.

Good o' mudrat put a phantom grip I believe in the front of the lifted ranger that had a dual range in it and also tried selling d/r trans with posi front diffs (phantom grip). I also believe the WJM found that all the front diffs were basically the same so anything that works in a wrx or such would work for our old dual ranges. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49241&highlight=front I could be wrong though and this information could be bad, sorry if it is. Zap is right on the Welded diff. Having run large tires and a limited slip unit. You really limit where you can go once one rear tires starts to slip. Some have thought about putting a turning brake on the rears but I haven't seen/heard about good results there either.

I'm coming! With the rains moving in i have been scrambling a bit to get things wrapped up. I also just realized that I can build this thing in my garage but it appears with rack an all that i will have to deflate the tires to get it out! You around saturday around noonish?

excellent, thats the same number I came up with as well on first measurement, but was going to check it. Roughly how long does that make the driveshaft between the transmission and tcase? Did youd leave the sammy fuel tank? I haven't checked clearance on it, but am tempted to leave it there and plumb it in to have dual tanks.

Jerry, Looks like the best way is to cut the frame just in front of the tcase cross member leaving that intack. Is that what you found as well?

Ok, rear end assembly: The rearend that is in it was destroyed but came with all new parts just needed to be assembled. On the passenger side: After I got the axle out and inspecting the seal, I noticed a plastic ring. Looks kinda like a fender washer but has slotted holes around it and is located to the inside the axle housing just inside of the seal. Is it supposed to be there? Its in there loosely and can slide freely.

I know, sorry Jerry. We ended up not going overthere, instead had everyone come over here. We will get overthere and I will give you come lead time as to when. Most likely the 27th of Sept

The front setup going back to stock. The way it is now is just plain scary. As it extends the entire axles shift to the right and then the oppisite happens on compression, not a big fan of how its done. I will be doing a 4 link system in the rear once I get it up and running but for now all stock to get her up and running . It is nice seeing pictures of how its supposed to be setup. I have some more sami questions if you have any knowledge about them?

I will shoot for end of sept it will be ready to drive around. If you want to help out I would cook ya dinner!

Nothing small enough for a little 2.2 liter. I have a couple in the 750cfm range. I do have a couple extra plates that would work!

it would be interesting to compare power of FI and Carb. I suspect with the limitations of the stock programing you could make the Carb'd motor more powerful?

So since I am not truly all subaru any more, can I still join this club?

What are you going to do for rear side glass? Looks awsome! I need to go for a ride to compare EJ's. When you going to weld on a 4 barrel plate and throw on a small little 4 barrel carb?

no, this guy was on everson goshen near smith road. He may have gotten it from the guy your talking about, he got it for the motor and trans and was going to scrap the rest.

Thanks I am actually going to Yakima this weekend, so I will call you. When is the best time for you? Pefect thanks scott

Well it's whatever a stock samurai is. The four link will come at a later point once all gets put together. Should handle a little nicer than a samurai because of the lengthened wheel base. The front as the funky mod where you set the front leafs back so that the forword end of the spring is monted to the axle. I will take that out and place it back to stock. Pics will be up tonight.

You will get some, so long as you promise not to laugh at my sketchy system for lifting the body and rolling the frame in.

Today I pick up a complete rolling samurai frame. I will be placing the body of my wagon including motor and trans on the frame of the samurai. I haven't completed a frame swap/modification like this before so I am a bit excited! On that note, for those of you who know, if there are any tips or tricks that maybe helpful, or if you want to share your mistakes please, I am all ears! I will post pictures as updates as they happen. Thank you for those whom have already lent some assistance! (cough* cough*... SJR, bratsrus1, monstaru, etc.)

After dealing with first hand with both here is my opinion: SJR: Great build quality and constantly looking to expand and improve what he is offering. Would purchace any of SJR's products and hope he continues to expand and grow! AA: I have bumper, lift, and wheels from AA. Bumper is great, Lift is 90% great and Wheels are 75% great. The Lift never "settled" and I have some issues with the ousides of tires wearing in the front. I had two wheels crack at the welds but AA was quick to replace if I wanted. (I ended up fixing myself just because i wanted to.) I would purchase from both companys again but I would would have to recommend SJR.

rolling frame or just the rails?