Caboobaroo

yeah I got the same time frame to et the RX buttoned up..... stupid Scouts in my way though, grrrr....

heh, those turn signals are the same as the ones on a Hummer H1! I should know... worked on one when I started in the bodyshop at Laramie GM....

ok I'll have to give it a shot then. I have enough money left over from payday that I could go buy a new one if need be.....

easiest way to do it, sine I just did it myself, is to take the engine out with the TC connected to it. I had to cut the core support to give the engine enough room to slide out but it was very easy. Just all depends on it you plan on keeping the body or not.

I get a lot of EA81s up here and I'd be willing to let the rear quarters go cheap. Just need to get another wagon in since all I have are a couple Brats, and a couple coupes.

I need to know right now, if an alternator from a '79 Brat (EA71) will work in a '75 FWD automatic coupe (EA63). Need to get a new one but I need to move it in and out of my shop under its own power.

you don't have to put in a WRX intercooler but because this turbo flows more cfms then the original IHI RHB5, it helps for performance and prevents dentonation. Plus, the WRX intercooler is easier to plumb in now that it matches the turbo, and also will make it easier to plumb into the TB. I used a spyder intake for mine but I have seen people use the stock nonspyder intake with a TD04 and WRX intercooler like Calebz. Oh, and a good place to find silicone fittings for a reasonable price, check out http://www.ebay.com

This is the way to go. I know a few people who try and put the driver side cam up and the passenger side down and they mess up the timing. It takes an extra 30 seconds to rotate the crank 360 degrees. So, get your driver side on, with the little hole pointing to the notch in the cover, rotate the crank 360 degrees, put passenger side cam sprocket pointing up, put the belt on and away you go.

I take a screwdriver and stick it in one of the holes on the outside edge. Then I just hold onto it for dear life while I put my ratchet on there and bust it off.

probably be your best bet. When you crank over the engine with the ignition, the fuel pump is driven off of the ignition. When the engine is running and you let off the key, the fuel pump gets its power from the alternator. If the alternator or v/r are bad, the fuel pump won't run, so it will drain the bowl on the carb.

might want to check the voltage regulator on the passenger side of the engine compartment. If the alternator spikes too much for too long, it'll kill it, and this is where the fuel pump is wired to the alternator

if you tear the engine down and replace the freeze plugs and the gaskets/seals on the engine (valve covers, intake gaskets, front/rear main seals, etc.) and put it back together, you'll be fine. My first Subaru was a '83 GL 2wd hatchback that sat for 8 years after the freeze plugs in the passenger side head blew out. So it had water in the crankcase the whole time. Replaced them and some seals, cleaned the carbr eal good and she ran pretty decent. Since it had the Carter-Weber carb on it, she didn't like to run too well on start up being cold but she'd warm up nice and ran halfway decent. I bet if I would have put a Weber or a Hitachi carb on it, she would have been much happier. Nice score!

double post..... hmmm

welcome and I see you're in a close area to me. Zefy hit it right on the head as far as engine/tranny options but unfortunatly, it won't be a direct bolt in. I currently have a EA81 1.8 liter with a s/r 4wd 4speed in my '78 Brat. Was pretty much a bolt in for me but I have no front CV shafts so nothing to hit the steering column coming out of the rack.

Heh, we'll find out now won't we:D Like kingbobdole said, ask for parts for a '89 GL-10 1.8 turbo. Granted, some places will have the turbo Loyale listed (Advance lists my '89 RX) but it will help save you many problems, especially that in '89, that was the only engine that could ever possibly come with a turbo so its makes it harder for them to screw up.

lets bust out the shovel and go post digging:lol:

Do you need me to bring you down one when I come for the Redrocks meet Phil?

Yeah I'm still in Wyoming but June of '07, I'll be making my way back to the PNW, more specifically Bellingham, WA to go back to school. Probably won't be able to get to WCSS this year since I couldn't get a couple days off to make the 14 hour trip, plus paint won't happen until its running and driving with no kinks in the drivetrain. So she's still black, white, and silver but I do have another hood in primer with a STi hoodscoop in it:brow:

I'll be local in less then a year Zap:headbang: And I have a few EA81 calipers laying around too BUT, I'm not a local yet... What are you moving anyways?

This is a piece of trim that is easliy fixable unless the metal is actually torn. What I did on a couple sets I have/had is I took a sand bag (one for bodywork) and a body hammer and tapped the dents out so they were smooth. Took a lot of time and paitence BUT after getting them powder coated black, they looked like they came off of the shelf as a NOS part. I also sanded off the DOT numbers on the lenses with some 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper, then with some 800, then took some plastic polishing compound and buffed the crap out of them. They were sooo shiny AND didn't have the DOT numbers to catch dirt and wax either:headbang:

Engine will be going back into my RX now. Its a SPFI shortblock with all of my goodies going onto it. Running a set of rebuilt generation 2 turbo heads, new OEM headgaskets, torqued to 60 ft-lbs. Also installed my Delta 260 cams as well. Longblock is just about to go in, just need to take it to the carwash and pressure wash the living daylights out of it. Then it'll be installing my clutch and flywheel, intake, timing components, radiator and a few other items. I also have a new set of 280ZX turbo injectors that I just installed into my spyder intake, and once the engine is back in, I'll be installing my AFPR in a location that is easily accessible. Should be running in a week, if not less. Still waiting for my new front main seal though.... YES!

Probably heard it form me:D I remember when Corky owned this car. I also remember when it changed hands but no one will release the board member's name. Are we allowed to know this info now that your own it Tex?

Are you sure those aren't for a replacement from the dealership? I've seen replacement NOS of these that were all black. Actually I've seen quite a few of them that were all black.

OK I get it now Shawn but why not to the Retrofit forum? It clearly states in the description of the "Transplant" forum that its a Subaru drivetrain into something thats not a Subaru body or frame of some sort....

If you want a 3-door grille, since all RX coupes had the same grille as a 3-door, you're going to need to do a bit of other work to the front of the car in order to get it to fit. What I mean is the wagon/sedan have different headlight buckets and mounts then the 3-doors. So in order for a 3-door grille to be a direct bolt in, you're also going to need to find a set of headlight buckets and mounts for a 3-door as well. Headlight glass is all the same, just the parts I mentioned. Don't ask me why Subaru decided to do it this way, but I found out the hard way and had to spend an extra couple hours swapping hardware after I had installed my "new" headlights...