renob123

I'm pretty sure I posted all of this before, so you could always try searching. EJ mounts pretty much all fit. I went with STI motor mounts on my Brat swap, then I upgraded to Group N mounts later on. The STI motor mounts with a pitch stopper may have been good enough, and the Group N mounts with no pitch stopper were good enough. Having both is the best by far, though. I don't know how it works on an EA82, but I was planning on stiffening the rear of the suspension to help with the lift you mention. I started to notice that with the Whiteline rear sway and stock torsion bar I had, the rear is stiff enough to cause snap oversteer, which I don't like. When I went to the STI 5-speed, the AWD seemed to cure any kind of problems caused by lift. If you don't want to do an AWD swap, then I'd recommend getting some Brat Turbo front springs. They'll drop and stiffen the front, which will help with the lift. Or you could cut your springs, but people will throw a big fit if you do that. From my experience, the only clutch I found that was reliable is an XT6 clutch from the dealer. There may be others, but I went through a couple combos that caused problems before giving up and spending dealer money. The problem is that aftermarket providers sell the same clutch for XT6s as they do for any other EA82, even though the flywheel specs aren't the same. Keep an eye on the rear main, but don't assume you'll have to replace it soon. It could hold out the longest. Jacob

For somewhat similar benefits at a fraction of the cost/work, you could go with a lightweight pulley instead. When you finally do want to do the flywheel thing, you can sell the pulley. Don't do both. Jacob

I'm keeping an eye out down here, but it's a long shot. I love those tires. Jacob

Using RX springs on the front will lift it up a bit. Jacob

"Best" is always subjective, but that would be a sweet combo. ^^^This. Although I never caught enough traction anywhere to rip the wheel out of my hands. Jacob

I suppose I could take a video, but I'd prefer to drive it instead. I'm not totally sure what a video would do anyway. It looks and sounds like a Subaru. Jacob

What kind of racer? That means very different things to different people. Also, what's your budget? We can only offer limited help without knowing those things. The only thing I can really say for sure is that a WRX engine and 5-speed DR transmission is a dumb combo. Jacob

:banana:

Ohh, 1982gl4, you just got sticky served! OP: WJM did something like that on his old RX. You should search for posts by him and learn all you can, then you can ask him some intelligent questions on the subject. You only have a certain number of questions with him, so don't waste them all on something you could have learned by searching:) Jacob

Search for threads started by carfreak85. They'll be in the Old Gen or Retrofitting sections. Jacob

You can search. That's how I learned how to lower my Brat. Aside from that, improve the driver, then you'll start to know which parts of your car you want to improve. Then you can search here on how to improve those parts. Jacob

Heh, those two are so often confused:lol: I got bored with a regular EJ22 in my Brat, but then, I couldn't use much of the Frankenmotor power until I switched to an AWD transmission with LSDs on both ends. Buggies are RWD, right? In that case, I'm not sure how much of a difference it would really make. Both would haul:banana: Jacob

Damn. I wish I had caught this earlier. I doubt you needed to buy the overhaul kit. You could have saved some money by buying the things individually, I bet. Jacob

Tighten your clutch cable and see if you can get it into reverse then. If not, then there may just be too much slop. Search around on here for how to fix it. New engine and transmission mounts may help as well, and even if they don't, you should get new ones anyway. They really transform the car. Jacob

Ahh, ok. You're talking about the 14% increase in displacement. I'd assume the ECU can vary the fuel at idle at least enough to account for changes in temperature through the year. I suppose if it's dumping more fuel in the winter due to more oxygen in the air, then it had to deal with putting in 14% more fuel for the extra displacement, there could very well be an issue. Assuming Delta changed just the duration, then I suppose even more fuel would be needed. But like I said, I don't really know what exactly they change. I doubt I ever will care as long as they work:) I could have changed the speedo gears when the transmission was out, but I don't think I had one lying around that was the right ratio. Keep in mind the STI 5-speed replaced an EA82 5-speed in my Brat. I'm ok with just knowing that if it looks like I'm doing the speed limit, I'm actually under. It's a good margin of error. I'm considering a 5-lug swap to run Liberty/Impreza stuff, at which point I'll consider a new tire diameter. That's actually a good point. I may as well get a size that fits my speedometer if I'm getting new stuff anyway. If your Liberties transitioned exactly when our Legacies did, then the 1995 Gen 1 Liberty would be OBDII, I believe. SVXs changed for their 1996 year. I'm not positive at all about any other models. Jacob

I haven't fixed the idle issue, but it still hasn't bothered me. GD has a theory that we will test one of these weekends, though. I'll update this thread if it works. Lots of people have run cams on a stock 2.2 without this weird idle issue. I don't know what the difference is between stock cams and Delta cams from a technical standpoint, but I have a hard time believing that they require that much more fuel at idle than stock. Therefore, I'm not totally sure I buy your fuel map theory. I think it's the cams changing the amount of vacuum in the cylinder along with the different dynamic compression of the Frankenmotor. I have been considering a different FPR or injectors, though. If they fix it, then I guess your theory is better than mine. "ODB" stands for Ol' Dirty Bastard, a rapper in the '90s. "OBD" stands for On Board Diagnostics. It's an industry standard for ECUs. The switch from OBDI to OBDII happened around 1995 or so in the US. I don't know how it works everywhere else, though. My speedo is off because of the transmission swap, but next time I drive it, I'll see if I can come up with the RPMs at 60. It's hot here, so recently I've been driving my car that has AC. Jacob

Aww, who changed the thread title? The old one was funny as (I did, trying to get past the cuss filter is usually an infraction) Jacob

MilesFox, your PM box is full:banana: OP: What all these other people said. Jacob

Search for posts by ShawnW. He's the one that posted the pic. I'm pretty sure I posted how you could make your own in that thread as well. Jacob

I considered attaching one to the back wall, but I don't think it's strong enough. You could either get killed, or worse, a light fender-bender may break the rear glass:lol: I'd make a harness bar if I were you. Jacob

Yep, cams or you're retarded. All of those things your brother did are a joke compared to cams. Do them now, and do the 2.5 block when the stars align properly (i.e. you found a good 2.5 block for cheap, the 2.2 is giving up, you have spare time/money, etc.) Jacob

I'm not totally sure if he'd be up for it or how much he'd charge, but you could ship it to GeneralDisorder in PDX. edrach (among others in WA) may know of a place that's closer to you. Jacob

There's no reason to spend that much for those minor repairs on a car that's probably not even worth that much. Take your car somewhere else for work. Also, do what Subruise said or post a WTB ad for the stuff that's broken, and someone here will likely be able to send you the stuff you need. If you were closer, I could refer you to people who would do the repair for probably half of that quote. Jacob

Claybar, paint correction, glaze and wax would be ideal, but it sounds like you're not ready to go balls-deep into this detail. Is that correct? For a show, you might consider Meguiar's Show Car Glaze or New Car Glaze. It's not a wax, so it won't stay on your car as long, but it will give a good, deep shine. It sounds like that may be the ticket for you, since you wouldn't have to worry about wax being on there during the repaint. If you plan to sand before painting, though, you could probably get away with whatever you want. Lots of people like the Turtle Wax Ice synthetic wax for its simplicity. I hate it, but some swear by it. Jacob

Keep in mind that a lot of people try what they read, and usually only the people who have problems come back and complain. For how cheap it is, you should probably try it, unless you know for sure it won't work. I wonder if you have to non-foul all of the O2 sensors on your model. The ECU may be comparing values and finding that one sensor is reading way off considering the readings of the other 4. That's just speculation, though. If you can open-source tune the '05 ECU, then you should be able to make the ECU never throw/care about that code. If your emissions are like ours in Oregon, all they want to see is no codes, so this trick gets you by. Check with williaty on NABISCO. He has an '05, and he tunes. He may have another idea, but you should definitely see if he can tune that CEL out of your ECU. Jacob