Numbchux

I don't believe all of them did. but I think they're fairly common. it'd be worth another look anyway.

^ what he said. lots of information in the FAQ. but, a couple things specific to your situation. you're not really going to gain much from a lift if you're running stock tires. in fact, you'd be better off leaving it unlifted and cramming some tires in there that are a few inches taller than stock! that being said, you might be very happy with a 2" lift and some ~26" tall tires (stockers are ~23"). also, wheel size is independent of tire size, only exception is the lack of large tires available for 13" wheels. I run 17" wheels on my loyale in the summer and am lowered substantially. and my '88s both had 15" wheels, lifts (one 3", one 4"), and had tire rubbing issues. it's all about the tire size.

nope. the sway bar only bolts to the trailing arms. 2 places on each arm.

sounds like a plan. the t-wag likely has a different diff gear ratio than yours so won't be a bolt up. it MIGHT have a limited slip, but unlikely. but only takes a second to see if the sticker on it says LSD. that's the only reason it might be worth saving. the trailing arm bolts are likely on there extremely tight. and are pretty hard to get at on the car. so it's kind of a big project. but would work just fine. you may also find that the turbo wagon has a rear sway bar.....and the mounts are on the trailing arm. adding the bar to your car would really help the handling!

maybe he'll send my shock mounts out too.......or I'm opening a PayPal dispute before it's too late!!

I'm curious if this will work with the EA81 pitch stopper. I've got a buddy that will need one soon, and the pitch stopper is an issue we haven't solved yet....

ding ding ding RX coupe rear springs are 179lb/in and RX sedans are 160. Wagons use 196.....s

We're lucky enough here in MN to have Subaru guys working at the parts counters of a couple of the Subaru dealers. and one time when I was in there, I was given a Parts Quick Reference Guide. It has proven invaluable over the last few years when ordering from my local dealer (the places with the subaru guys are a few hours away....so I don't get there very often). It doesn't have everything, but has most commonly replaced/service parts (wheel bearings, engine gaskets, lights, cooling stuff, hoses, etc. etc. etc.). Anyway, I just noticed it has a part number of it's own listed on the back: MSA6P0403 MSRP according to 1stsubaruparts.com is $6.70. too bad they have a $13 minimum shipping charge. BUT, it might be worth asking at your local parts counter. either for the latest quick reference guide, or just drop that part number. This one covers EVERY subaru model from 1985-2004. which means EA81s too. and separated by model number. just thought I'd share.

agreed! only thing I could tell for sure was the rear diff drop plate. and the rear crossmember wasn't dropped so couldn't be ozified.

looks hot. SJR kit?

"1. subaruguru has chosen not to receive private messages or may not be allowed to receive private messages. Therefore you may not send your message to him/her." EDIT: just notice he was banned......awesome. now I don't have a way to get in touch with him.

^ just weld up the spider gears in the center diff. done and done. or, if you've got some $$ to throw around, you can get couplers from a number of sources to eliminate the center diff. the transfer gears become the weak point, but still pretty tough. poormanzimpreza.....I believe you're just thinking of the difference between numerous r160s. they use different stub styles. the custom race that suberdave used was just to put the WRX rear LSD to match his front clip/tranny in the EA82. but was still an r160. r180s only came behind the STi 6-speeds ('04+ here in the US). where have you seen pics of burned up EA82 diffs? sure, sheared stubs, broken axles, etc. but all of those are stronger on the EJ counterparts. I also doubt you'll be killing axles left and right with a welded diff and N/A power on gravel. at stock angles, they're pretty tough.

yep, but this thread is about an EA81

the r180 swap is bolt in.....but not just the diff. the hanger is different, hubs, knuckles and axles. which means bolting in the entire crossmember, lateral links, trailing arms, struts, brakes, etc. etc. etc. etc. only reason it's bolt in, is because it was available in another subaru model. don't have to ask why a RWD subaru, sounds awesome but, I think an r180 would hold up to N/A 2.5 power pretty well.....with the reduced traction of rally, you'd probably be fine rocking the r160. a guy here in Minneapolis was running RWD in his 2.2l '99 Imp wagon with a welded 4.444 r160 in the rear. did lots of burnouts and drifts, all on pavement, and didn't break much (except that time he forgot to put fluid in it......oops ). I'd drop a nice LSD r160 in there, and call it a day.

don't need to drop the whole suspension. if it's fused to the spindle end too, you can pound the spindle out of the bearings. drop the diff (axles still attached.....) pull the brakes/hub off there, and start pounding on the spindle. it'll slide out of the bearings, and you can get it on a work bench to seperate the 2. and it's an EA81, so should have DOJs on the outer joints, so you should be able to disassemble pretty easily. also. as far as I can tell, the outer joint does not have the easily removable cap in the cup like the inner one does. I've done a lot of pounding on it, and haven't gotten one out.

well....interchangeable anyway. the '85-'86 ones have a different outer joint style. but the length and spline counts didn't change.

because it's awesome

well.....the r180 doesn't just fit in where an r160 did. it's physically bigger in almost every dimension. and an r200 is bigger still. it can be done but it'll be alot of custom work. why are you looking at doing this?

wost case scenario, pull the joint apart, and clean the grease out of the cup. there's a cap in the bottom of the cup, and through there you can get to the E10 bolt that holds the stub in. you can take the stub out of the diff. at which point, you can soak the whole thing in penetrant. get some serious heat without worrying about cooking bearings and seals, or just cut the cup off.....I've done that.

all subarus with fuel injection have the baffles (I don't remember if carbed EA82s do or not). but EA81s don't.....

I've never heard that..... yea, I realized later that the confusion might be from the newer viscous ones where one side has 2 sets of splines.

I don't think there is a difference. I've run with a combination of them before (and currently am, one of each), never had a problem.

agreed. happened on my car, I got a short in one of my turn signals, and next thing I know, my seatbelts don't work.

exactly. there's a bolt in the back that IIRC bolts to the intake mani. I ran like that (except with the power steering and stock belt) for about a year and a half

don't need a custom bracket to remove the compressor on an inboard setup. stock bracket works fine. I'll try to dig up pics of either of my '88s engine bay....