Everything posted by Numbchux
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Ea82t all power goes out with key in start position
wow......seriously, read the whole thread before responding. the problem was solved.
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legacy knuckle in ea82 5 lug conversion
The tie rod mounting point is definitely closer to the center of the car, so you'll need to adjust the tie rods a bit. but there's enough to get it all to work. I've heard that EA81 rod ends are the way to go. shorter than the EA82 or EJ stuff. will allow toe-in. legacy and impreza knuckles are identical. I would think that if forester suspension on any other EJ car works without dropping the crossmember, it would work on a 5-lug swapped EA car.
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Lsd Fyi
I think of the clutch-type LSDs as like having a couple guys pushing on the back of the car when you've got 2 wheels off the ground. yea, if you're in a really hairy situation, it won't be enough, but if you're close, it can mean all the difference.
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93 Legacy Turbo - engine type?
Numbchux replied to fopetesl's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXthat is the common assumption. but Subarus have existed for about 40 years. so 15 is still pretty new. also, pop-riveted to the driver's side strut tower, there's a steel plate with some serial numbers stamped on it. This will have your true engine code, as an EJ20T doesn't really exist, it's just a generic term to reference any 2.0l turbo motor. Your motor should be an EJ20G.
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Iron Range Offroad Open House - Northern MN - May 17
The 3rd annual open house. Hosted by the North Shore Wheelers. Last year we had a stock Outback make an appearance. I'll be there, probably in a very stock Toyota. http://www.nsw4x4.com/openhouseinformation.html
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decals---- who's making them??
vendor section.....couple options there
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My Brat so far.... (56k go away)
I have the technology to put those P7s on there That's hot, I'm glad you got it figured out. sorry I've missed your calls, been busy. That rear camber is not normal. but remember, those 3 big bolts where the torsion bar bolts to the trailing arm. those set the alignment in the rear. they're not lobed bolts like EJ camber bolts, the holes are just bigger than the bolts, so loosen them, straighten things out, and then tighten them again.
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S'ko's 2000 OBS repair thread (combined EJ18 & EJ25 threads)
agreed.
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Last of the EA Full Time boxes viscous ?
they're AWD. but the center diff can be swapped for an EA-style FT4WD locking center diff. which would allow you to run an EJ clutch. BUT, unless you're putting out more than ~150hp, an EA-style clutch is plenty. Which means the cost of the trans, plus the work to completely tear down the tranny to swap the center diff and front pinion (has to match the center diff). and the EJ D/Rs have the 1.196:1 low range.....so swap it out for the 1.596:1 gears. back to the original question. all EA-series FT4WD 5-speeds had an open, locking center diff. sometimes EJ-series trannies are referred to as FT4WD......but they don't have a locking center diff, so they're just AWD, with the viscous diff.
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5 lug swap using EJ parts, need to confirm axle usage
XT6. Larger ball joint hole. and I did have to drill out the holes in the crossmember because the XT6 control arms use larger bolts there.
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Subaru right for me?
reliability. terribly timing belt design, inefficient water pump and cooling system, the crank angle sensor and ignition amplifier (right? the little thing under the coil that likes to leave you stranded in the middle of no-where). I've said it before. I will never, ever, buy another EA82 (I've owned 5) with the intent of keeping the stock motor. And I just bought a '96 Outback for my girlfriend (That would be an EJ25d, and a '96 so it's got HLAs too, it's got 123k miles on it). And my mom has been driving an '01 Legacy L with an EJ253 for 3 years. I believe she's up to almost 100k miles (had 20k when we bought it).
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4.44 and lockers
The name Lincoln Locker comes from the Lincoln brand welder.......it's a welded diff.
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what the %$@*# bad parts
hmmm....interesting. I love O'Reilly's. Around here, anyway, they've got the best employees of any parts store.
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Subaru right for me?
I'll put it this way. an EJ25 is a muuuuch better option than an EA82. Making an EJ25 go for a bazillion miles isn't any harder than doing the same with an EA82. and yes, if you're not prepared for lots of tinkering, a body-lifted subaru is not for you. but a simple GF impreza wagon with outback or forester suspension would be perfect. regardless of the motor.
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5 lug swap using EJ parts, need to confirm axle usage
welcome. and keep searching. there's a list in the USRM (link at the top of the page) about it. and look for build threads by just about anyone who's posted in this thread.
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EA clutch To EJ motor
The XT6 flywheel is different, but only because it's lighter. the clutch kits are 100% interchangeable.
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Radiator
I think the water pump and cooling passages in the EJ-series motors are substantially more effective. Since my old EA82 radiator could barely keep the EA82 cool with new pump and tstat, but was plenty for the EJ22. only reason I replaced it was it started leaking.
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4.44 and lockers
oh boy. there are no factory 4.444s that will fit in the part-time 4WD tranny. period. there are no lockers for the front. but any front LSD for a 5-speed subaru will work. none of them will work very well for wheelin (most are helical, and are completely ineffective unless there's at least some resistance to both wheels).
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My Brat so far.... (56k go away)
yea, the slop was really bad, so I pointed him in the direction of the USRM article that uses compression fittings and a bolt. which made it substantially worse...... I like that way! Martin, if you don't, I've got a couple Tap/die sets.......we could do that pretty easily.
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Subaru right for me?
still extremely misleading.....Yea, you have to be a bit more careful on the maintenance. and extremely careful when buying a used one. But it's still far from unreliable.
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My Brat so far.... (56k go away)
+1!!!l That storage unit is freakin awesome! all it needs is a good air compressor. Martin, you should post the pics of us modifying the upper shock mount brackets for the RC shocks.
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Subaru right for me?
wow, you guys make those new motors sounds like garbage keep an eye on the temp gauge, and any EJ-series motor will have no problem breaking 250-300k miles. yea, if you let them overheat, they're more prone to head gasket failure than others. And the SOHC versions are worlds better....I know numerous guys pushing 10+psi of boost into stock blocks. An outback is surprisingly capable. and you can stuff 29" tires on them stock. a little bit of fender trimming and 29s and you'll have better ground clearance than almost any SUV out there. No, they weren't available with low range. but that just means don't get a 5-speed. The auto tranny will allow plenty of control for some light wheeling (only time I'd suggest low range AND an auto, is serious rock crawling.....in which case no subaru low range is sufficient anyway). I'm not a fan of the '00+ Legacy multi-link rear suspension for wheeling. looking at it on my mom's '01, I just don't think it leaves a whole lot of travel. The big advantage to wheeling subarus is they're weight (or lack thereof). But this advantage has been sucked away in the last 5-10 years in the form of luxury options, crumple zones and chassis stiffening. an '00+ legacy will weight almost as much as your Toyota except without that solid axle thing in the back. Although, the new Outback's are available with that 3.0l 6-cyl :slobber: SO. Subarus can be awesome trail/hunting/camping rigs. But over time, they've become less and less likely candidates. As mentioned, the late '80s ones are the ones that have low range, and 4" lift kits available. In my opinion, your best bet is a '93-'01 Impreza with legacy outback or forester suspension (like the one pictured in this thread).
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EA clutch To EJ motor
http://www.specclutch.com/ a stock replacement XT6 one will fit fine, and works great for ~150hp. but not 300.
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eg33 trans info?
would require mounting the motor in the rear as well.....
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just how much stress can stock axles handle?
the thing with welded diffs......when you're at full flex, the side under load is the side with up-flex, which means the joints are not at angle. which means, they're no longer the weak spot......the axle stubs are. and that's true even with stock gearing and motor. lower gears, bigger tires, bigger motor, all make it more true. other thing to consider. if you get stronger axles, and stubs, something else is going to break. I fear the next weakest link is the diff itself. and the rear output of the EA trannies isn't exactly bulletproof either.
