Numbchux

the captive nuts for the mustache bar aren't present. but there are 'divots' (for lack of a better term) on the frame rail where they go. just drill them out, tap some threads in there (it's not just sheetmetal. but use a lock washer and don't overtorque), and bolt it up. the D/R shifter hit the back of the shifter hole in the tranny tunnel on my loyale. but that might have more to do with the RX tranny. either way, a few minutes with the grinder solved that problem. yea, you'll need the whole rear subframe, not just the trailing arms. as the FWD crossmember doesn't have the bracket for the diff hanger. I really need to take some pictures of the carrier mounts I made. pretty simple, and no welding required. just used a piece of 1" wide steel, bent about a 90 degree bend in it, drilled a hole in either end. bolted it to the carrier, than drilled holes in the side of the trans tunnel, and bolted them in (had to remove the seats to put a nut on the back of the bolts). the rest of it is pretty simple. I wouldn't worry about tranny seals if they're not leaking. if they are, the dealer is your best bet, seals aren't too pricey.

ok, I'll do the searching for you. one of the few times that mudrat ever really revealed his wealth of knowledge: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=395992&postcount=24 and the recipe for the 4.111 RX trans he was referring to: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=523048&postcount=17 short version is, as far as anyone knows, the EJ series pinion gears won't play with the EA center diff/transfer case. so if you want to keep true 4WD, you'd have to have a custom pinion made ($$$$$$). but it's possible if you convert to AWD.

seriously......search search search. it's been discussed.

hmm.....what fan are you using? my old crappy loyale was plenty with the aftermarket electric fan I'm using. heck, I haven't used the fan at all all winter. only time I have problems is when the front of the car is caked with snow.... how's the rest of the cooling system? water pump, tstat, etc.

it happens I got your message....but I was at work. I can't believe you cracked the DOJ cup! that's crazy. I've beat on, and deformed them, even cut one off one of the spindles that was in the XT control arms I got.

yep, the nissan throwout bearing is only necessary when using an XT6 clutch kit and an EA81 tranny. if you've got an EA82 trans, the XT6 bearing will work fine. let me recommend the Beck/Arnley one from Rock Auto again. it's a high quality new unit, not reman'ed, for the price of reman'ed.

don't need to drop the diff to get them out. but you'll probably have to unbolt the shock, and pull the trailing arm down to give some slack to get them off the stub....

yes, it's been done on an EA car. seriously......it's a different animal on the EJs. I wouldn't run full coilovers, especially not low quality ones. if you're lifting something, I'm assuming you're going to be using the suspension travel you have, if you go coilover, you'll probably limit that, a lot. IMHO, the best setup would be strut top blocks, stock struts, and Ground Control coilover sleeves. available in any spring rate, so you can order some that are the same as stock. here's a pic of a ground control sleeve on a stock subaru strut: look at all that unused spring perch you could hack off.

you pretty much summed it up there, except by making the mistake of saying EA. please don't insult such wonderful motors as the EA81s by lumping them in with the EA82s you said "WHEN" it blows up. and we all know it'll happen. yet you're mad that nobody suggests this as a good idea?! fine, if you have an EA82. you want a bit more power, you don't want to spend the money on an EJ swap. put an EA81 with a Weber and a delta cam in there. but even then, it's still a 1.8. if you really want power, get more motor (that said, I'd never swap a 2.0l, turbo or not, still isn't worth it IMHO). and there isn't any other way to do that.

indeed. the EA81 is a wonderful engine. I've NEVER said that the EA engines in general are junk. just the EA82. unfortunately, in this part of the world, EA81s aren't an option, because they've all rusted down to a pile of dust. I also wanted to mention. I've owned 5 EA82s. will never buy another without the intention of swapping it. And just bought a '96 2.5l Outback for my girlfriend. I have way more faith in the EJ25d (even a '96 with HLAs) than any EA82.

The EA82 engine is, by far, the worst engine subaru has ever made. That being said, in the grand scheme of things, it's still a pretty darn good motor. but you can't beat the cost, power, and reliability upgrade of an early EJ22e. it's really not an expensive swap, and for the money you save in the long run by having a substantially more reliable car, I don't know why you wouldn't do it. when you're talking about just repairing, and getting tons of miles out of your STOCK EA82, I would very rarely suggest a swap. it's a big project. but if you're talking about performance at all, there's no question. when a stock non-turbo EJ22e gets the same power as a stock EA82t.......with a billion times the aftermarket support and reliability.......huh

here's where I saw the information I was referring to..... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74340

alright......ver. 2.0 here's the '99 miata shocks, with their stock rubber bushing, the EA82 upper mount/spring perch, and these GC springs. stock miata bushing, minus upper mount/perch. put a spring under it, the EA82 perch to replace the lower washer, than the EA82 bracket between the bushings: these springs are way too long. Had to really crank on the spring compressors to get the tops on. less than ideal but I gotta have this thing back on the road tomorrow!

the problem is, the bracket on the strut that attaches to the knuckle actually extends inside the rim, so if you make an extension that attaches the lower hole on the strut to the upper hole on the knuckle, the upper part of the bracket will hit the rim. IIRC, SJR tried it.

if they're not loose or noisy to the touch, they're probably not entirely shot. so you could pretty easily just pull them apart, clean out all the old grease and any dirt/grime that may be in there, and repack them with some fresh grease and be good to go. while driving around, see if you can't narrow down which corner the noise is coming from.

nope, the ones I've been using are '90 Rears. only difference between fronts and rears are the length. the short distance between that ring and the end of the shock is the reason the rubber bushing can't be used.... the ones I will be replacing them with are '99 (different design, these use a rubber bushing in the upper mounts like the EA82s) fronts with 250lb/in springs instead of 450 lb/in springs that I've been running.

your trans is a 3.7?! huh......alright. but yes, that pretty well covers it. it really is that easy. before you start, take a peek under the legacy and see if it's got the spring pins like the EA82 axles. if the pins are there, then it'll be easier. some cars (pretty sure that didn't start till after ~'95ish) don't have separable stubs, and won't have the springpins at all.

I'll be in for a repro sticker. as the sticker has fallen off of my car. if you'd like, the image that I posted from the FSM is scaled down substantially. I can send you a higher resolution version which might be a much better start.

depending what year legacy (???), it probably has stub axles that remove from the DOJ cups much like the EA82 ones. once those are removed, the legacy DOJ cups will attach to the EA82 stubs just like stock. also, pretty slim chance (if any....) that your legacy uses a 3.7 axle ratio. if you're going to put an EA82 LSD into it, you're going to be doing some gear work

and the bellhousing size issue is on the tranny side, not the engine side (well, maybe on the engine side as well......). the tranny bellhousing is smaller on an EA tranny than an EJ one

yea, with the arc'ed travel of the trailing arm, the lower shock mount needs to be able to move forward/backward in reference to the upper mount. I loosened the upper mounts a bit, and pointed the bottom of the shock a bit further forward before tightening it. And I'm pretty sure I got more out of it that WJM did (I'll see if I can find his pm......). but I got a healthy 15k miles before this one failed, and there are zero signs of cracking or anything on the other side. also, it occurred to me while I was at work tonight (delivering in my girlfriend's '96 OBW.......how luxurious ) that the side that failed, was the side that I was having trouble getting those bolts to torque down all the way. I was having a hell of a time getting the bolt on the rear-most side of that bracket tight enough. so it's possible it wasn't supported sufficiently. well, I've got these miata shocks from a '99 that will allow me to run a bushing on the top. so I'll try those next.

UPDATE!!!! I only have a few minutes before I have to leave for work. but.....just as WJM warned......I had a shock break last night. I had been monitoring them rather closely, looking for stress cracks or anything, and they appeared to be in good shape. but last night while I was delivering, I suddenly noticed a rather severe clunking sound coming from the rear. and it seemed to get very bouncy today I jacked it up, and sure enough, the top of the shock rod snapped off. Good thing I've got another set of suspension to go in there........oh wait, the shock mounts that I bought from subaruguru aren't supposed to get here until Thursday.......

the starters are in the same place. on the side of the bellhousing, but not the same distance from the input shaft (different diameter flywheel). the disc itself is the same as EJ stuff.....that's for sure. but the flywheel, pressure plate, and throwout bearing are all different. a good machine shop could probably lighten an XT6 flywheel quite a bit. some carefully drilled holes around the outer edge would really effect how quickly/easily the engine revs. and Spec makes numerous aftermarket clutch kit options.

subaru XT6. any year. they were made from '87-'92 I believe. they are based on the 4-cyl cars, but have a 6-cyl, so more power, so the clutch kit needs to be stronger.

the caliper bracket is the same, but the backing plate is, indeed, larger. which is why when using all XT6 parts, you need the backing plate as well.