Numbchux

The name Lincoln Locker comes from the Lincoln brand welder.......it's a welded diff.

hmmm....interesting. I love O'Reilly's. Around here, anyway, they've got the best employees of any parts store.

I'll put it this way. an EJ25 is a muuuuch better option than an EA82. Making an EJ25 go for a bazillion miles isn't any harder than doing the same with an EA82. and yes, if you're not prepared for lots of tinkering, a body-lifted subaru is not for you. but a simple GF impreza wagon with outback or forester suspension would be perfect. regardless of the motor.

welcome. and keep searching. there's a list in the USRM (link at the top of the page) about it. and look for build threads by just about anyone who's posted in this thread.

The XT6 flywheel is different, but only because it's lighter. the clutch kits are 100% interchangeable.

I think the water pump and cooling passages in the EJ-series motors are substantially more effective. Since my old EA82 radiator could barely keep the EA82 cool with new pump and tstat, but was plenty for the EJ22. only reason I replaced it was it started leaking.

oh boy. there are no factory 4.444s that will fit in the part-time 4WD tranny. period. there are no lockers for the front. but any front LSD for a 5-speed subaru will work. none of them will work very well for wheelin (most are helical, and are completely ineffective unless there's at least some resistance to both wheels).

yea, the slop was really bad, so I pointed him in the direction of the USRM article that uses compression fittings and a bolt. which made it substantially worse...... I like that way! Martin, if you don't, I've got a couple Tap/die sets.......we could do that pretty easily.

still extremely misleading.....Yea, you have to be a bit more careful on the maintenance. and extremely careful when buying a used one. But it's still far from unreliable.

+1!!!l That storage unit is freakin awesome! all it needs is a good air compressor. Martin, you should post the pics of us modifying the upper shock mount brackets for the RC shocks.

wow, you guys make those new motors sounds like garbage keep an eye on the temp gauge, and any EJ-series motor will have no problem breaking 250-300k miles. yea, if you let them overheat, they're more prone to head gasket failure than others. And the SOHC versions are worlds better....I know numerous guys pushing 10+psi of boost into stock blocks. An outback is surprisingly capable. and you can stuff 29" tires on them stock. a little bit of fender trimming and 29s and you'll have better ground clearance than almost any SUV out there. No, they weren't available with low range. but that just means don't get a 5-speed. The auto tranny will allow plenty of control for some light wheeling (only time I'd suggest low range AND an auto, is serious rock crawling.....in which case no subaru low range is sufficient anyway). I'm not a fan of the '00+ Legacy multi-link rear suspension for wheeling. looking at it on my mom's '01, I just don't think it leaves a whole lot of travel. The big advantage to wheeling subarus is they're weight (or lack thereof). But this advantage has been sucked away in the last 5-10 years in the form of luxury options, crumple zones and chassis stiffening. an '00+ legacy will weight almost as much as your Toyota except without that solid axle thing in the back. Although, the new Outback's are available with that 3.0l 6-cyl :slobber: SO. Subarus can be awesome trail/hunting/camping rigs. But over time, they've become less and less likely candidates. As mentioned, the late '80s ones are the ones that have low range, and 4" lift kits available. In my opinion, your best bet is a '93-'01 Impreza with legacy outback or forester suspension (like the one pictured in this thread).

http://www.specclutch.com/ a stock replacement XT6 one will fit fine, and works great for ~150hp. but not 300.

would require mounting the motor in the rear as well.....

the thing with welded diffs......when you're at full flex, the side under load is the side with up-flex, which means the joints are not at angle. which means, they're no longer the weak spot......the axle stubs are. and that's true even with stock gearing and motor. lower gears, bigger tires, bigger motor, all make it more true. other thing to consider. if you get stronger axles, and stubs, something else is going to break. I fear the next weakest link is the diff itself. and the rear output of the EA trannies isn't exactly bulletproof either.

yes, if you run JUST a diff shim, it'll point the pinion down. but he already has an AA lift kit, which uses 1" blocks (maybe more, IIRC they may have changed to 2") under the mustache bar brackets. That's why the full kit is overkill. I'm telling you. I blew 2 rear axles in the same weekend with just the mustache bar spacers. added the diff shim and the only time in a year that a blew another axle involved lots of mud/sand and a couple months with a torn boot. lots of hard wheeling the whole time. I hated my BYB lifted wagon because the diff was dropped down way more than necessary, and I was always smashing it on rocks. the AA lift with the diff shim was perfect.

the full diff drop kit is overkill. just grab the 2" diff shim: this did wonders on my AA lifted wagon.

hard to compete with the rubicon.... but I love this picture of the Poopenvagon in the Rock Gorge at the first Crawl 4 the Cure: This isn't a subaru (obviously), but a way cooler picture of the same trail: and another sweet picture of the Jeep in the gorge: and the last time I took the Chuxwagon out before I sold it. wish I'd gotten more pictures from that trip: oh yea, and this pic that was in 4WD and Sport Utility Magazine:

the bearing doesn't go in the crank. it goes in the flywheel. which will come off your EA82.

another vote for never buying from napa. too many times have napa parts left me on the side of the road.

EJ/EG/EZ bellhousings are all essentially the same (some have 8 bolts, but still have the 4 in the normal position). so you could use this adapter plate for any of them.

yep. completely interchangeable.

don't need the whole diff lowering kit. just get the 2" shim. $30 from SJR. I had a similar problem with my 4" High Clearance AA kit. that shim fixed it. how much lift are you running? do you have the adjustable extensions? make sure they're as low as possible, or you'll have problems. also, what kind of axles are you using? remans? all axles are not created equal.

I think if you wanted to do that, the easiest way would be to hook up the vacuum solenoid to the hi-low selector up on the side of the case, and leave the D/R shifter as is for 2wd/4wd. just be careful not to hit that button until you're ready

yea, most companies have superceded the '87+ EA82 part numbers instead of the '85-'86 adjustable ones. 4WD ones will sit the same as the middle setting. and FWD ones will sit the same as the tallest setting.

the captive nuts for the mustache bar aren't present. but there are 'divots' (for lack of a better term) on the frame rail where they go. just drill them out, tap some threads in there (it's not just sheetmetal. but use a lock washer and don't overtorque), and bolt it up. the D/R shifter hit the back of the shifter hole in the tranny tunnel on my loyale. but that might have more to do with the RX tranny. either way, a few minutes with the grinder solved that problem. yea, you'll need the whole rear subframe, not just the trailing arms. as the FWD crossmember doesn't have the bracket for the diff hanger. I really need to take some pictures of the carrier mounts I made. pretty simple, and no welding required. just used a piece of 1" wide steel, bent about a 90 degree bend in it, drilled a hole in either end. bolted it to the carrier, than drilled holes in the side of the trans tunnel, and bolted them in (had to remove the seats to put a nut on the back of the bolts). the rest of it is pretty simple. I wouldn't worry about tranny seals if they're not leaking. if they are, the dealer is your best bet, seals aren't too pricey.