Numbchux

yes, if you run JUST a diff shim, it'll point the pinion down. but he already has an AA lift kit, which uses 1" blocks (maybe more, IIRC they may have changed to 2") under the mustache bar brackets. That's why the full kit is overkill. I'm telling you. I blew 2 rear axles in the same weekend with just the mustache bar spacers. added the diff shim and the only time in a year that a blew another axle involved lots of mud/sand and a couple months with a torn boot. lots of hard wheeling the whole time. I hated my BYB lifted wagon because the diff was dropped down way more than necessary, and I was always smashing it on rocks. the AA lift with the diff shim was perfect.

the full diff drop kit is overkill. just grab the 2" diff shim: this did wonders on my AA lifted wagon.

hard to compete with the rubicon.... but I love this picture of the Poopenvagon in the Rock Gorge at the first Crawl 4 the Cure: This isn't a subaru (obviously), but a way cooler picture of the same trail: and another sweet picture of the Jeep in the gorge: and the last time I took the Chuxwagon out before I sold it. wish I'd gotten more pictures from that trip: oh yea, and this pic that was in 4WD and Sport Utility Magazine:

the bearing doesn't go in the crank. it goes in the flywheel. which will come off your EA82.

another vote for never buying from napa. too many times have napa parts left me on the side of the road.

EJ/EG/EZ bellhousings are all essentially the same (some have 8 bolts, but still have the 4 in the normal position). so you could use this adapter plate for any of them.

yep. completely interchangeable.

don't need the whole diff lowering kit. just get the 2" shim. $30 from SJR. I had a similar problem with my 4" High Clearance AA kit. that shim fixed it. how much lift are you running? do you have the adjustable extensions? make sure they're as low as possible, or you'll have problems. also, what kind of axles are you using? remans? all axles are not created equal.

I think if you wanted to do that, the easiest way would be to hook up the vacuum solenoid to the hi-low selector up on the side of the case, and leave the D/R shifter as is for 2wd/4wd. just be careful not to hit that button until you're ready

yea, most companies have superceded the '87+ EA82 part numbers instead of the '85-'86 adjustable ones. 4WD ones will sit the same as the middle setting. and FWD ones will sit the same as the tallest setting.

the captive nuts for the mustache bar aren't present. but there are 'divots' (for lack of a better term) on the frame rail where they go. just drill them out, tap some threads in there (it's not just sheetmetal. but use a lock washer and don't overtorque), and bolt it up. the D/R shifter hit the back of the shifter hole in the tranny tunnel on my loyale. but that might have more to do with the RX tranny. either way, a few minutes with the grinder solved that problem. yea, you'll need the whole rear subframe, not just the trailing arms. as the FWD crossmember doesn't have the bracket for the diff hanger. I really need to take some pictures of the carrier mounts I made. pretty simple, and no welding required. just used a piece of 1" wide steel, bent about a 90 degree bend in it, drilled a hole in either end. bolted it to the carrier, than drilled holes in the side of the trans tunnel, and bolted them in (had to remove the seats to put a nut on the back of the bolts). the rest of it is pretty simple. I wouldn't worry about tranny seals if they're not leaking. if they are, the dealer is your best bet, seals aren't too pricey.

ok, I'll do the searching for you. one of the few times that mudrat ever really revealed his wealth of knowledge: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=395992&postcount=24 and the recipe for the 4.111 RX trans he was referring to: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=523048&postcount=17 short version is, as far as anyone knows, the EJ series pinion gears won't play with the EA center diff/transfer case. so if you want to keep true 4WD, you'd have to have a custom pinion made ($$$$$$). but it's possible if you convert to AWD.

seriously......search search search. it's been discussed.

hmm.....what fan are you using? my old crappy loyale was plenty with the aftermarket electric fan I'm using. heck, I haven't used the fan at all all winter. only time I have problems is when the front of the car is caked with snow.... how's the rest of the cooling system? water pump, tstat, etc.

it happens I got your message....but I was at work. I can't believe you cracked the DOJ cup! that's crazy. I've beat on, and deformed them, even cut one off one of the spindles that was in the XT control arms I got.

yep, the nissan throwout bearing is only necessary when using an XT6 clutch kit and an EA81 tranny. if you've got an EA82 trans, the XT6 bearing will work fine. let me recommend the Beck/Arnley one from Rock Auto again. it's a high quality new unit, not reman'ed, for the price of reman'ed.

don't need to drop the diff to get them out. but you'll probably have to unbolt the shock, and pull the trailing arm down to give some slack to get them off the stub....

yes, it's been done on an EA car. seriously......it's a different animal on the EJs. I wouldn't run full coilovers, especially not low quality ones. if you're lifting something, I'm assuming you're going to be using the suspension travel you have, if you go coilover, you'll probably limit that, a lot. IMHO, the best setup would be strut top blocks, stock struts, and Ground Control coilover sleeves. available in any spring rate, so you can order some that are the same as stock. here's a pic of a ground control sleeve on a stock subaru strut: look at all that unused spring perch you could hack off.

you pretty much summed it up there, except by making the mistake of saying EA. please don't insult such wonderful motors as the EA81s by lumping them in with the EA82s you said "WHEN" it blows up. and we all know it'll happen. yet you're mad that nobody suggests this as a good idea?! fine, if you have an EA82. you want a bit more power, you don't want to spend the money on an EJ swap. put an EA81 with a Weber and a delta cam in there. but even then, it's still a 1.8. if you really want power, get more motor (that said, I'd never swap a 2.0l, turbo or not, still isn't worth it IMHO). and there isn't any other way to do that.

indeed. the EA81 is a wonderful engine. I've NEVER said that the EA engines in general are junk. just the EA82. unfortunately, in this part of the world, EA81s aren't an option, because they've all rusted down to a pile of dust. I also wanted to mention. I've owned 5 EA82s. will never buy another without the intention of swapping it. And just bought a '96 2.5l Outback for my girlfriend. I have way more faith in the EJ25d (even a '96 with HLAs) than any EA82.

The EA82 engine is, by far, the worst engine subaru has ever made. That being said, in the grand scheme of things, it's still a pretty darn good motor. but you can't beat the cost, power, and reliability upgrade of an early EJ22e. it's really not an expensive swap, and for the money you save in the long run by having a substantially more reliable car, I don't know why you wouldn't do it. when you're talking about just repairing, and getting tons of miles out of your STOCK EA82, I would very rarely suggest a swap. it's a big project. but if you're talking about performance at all, there's no question. when a stock non-turbo EJ22e gets the same power as a stock EA82t.......with a billion times the aftermarket support and reliability.......huh

here's where I saw the information I was referring to..... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74340

alright......ver. 2.0 here's the '99 miata shocks, with their stock rubber bushing, the EA82 upper mount/spring perch, and these GC springs. stock miata bushing, minus upper mount/perch. put a spring under it, the EA82 perch to replace the lower washer, than the EA82 bracket between the bushings: these springs are way too long. Had to really crank on the spring compressors to get the tops on. less than ideal but I gotta have this thing back on the road tomorrow!

the problem is, the bracket on the strut that attaches to the knuckle actually extends inside the rim, so if you make an extension that attaches the lower hole on the strut to the upper hole on the knuckle, the upper part of the bracket will hit the rim. IIRC, SJR tried it.

if they're not loose or noisy to the touch, they're probably not entirely shot. so you could pretty easily just pull them apart, clean out all the old grease and any dirt/grime that may be in there, and repack them with some fresh grease and be good to go. while driving around, see if you can't narrow down which corner the noise is coming from.