Numbchux

wait....there's rust? blah blah blah. you spoiled PNW folks. :-p fix it, don't fix it, whatever. but don't stop driving it!

where did you get them? I looked when I was in the market for new ones for my '88. every source I found just had the one application. nothing specific for the '85-'86.

AFAIK, the only 3.7 final drive D/R in north America is the RX trans. pretty easy to spot that one, as it's got the vacuum center diff lock thing AND a dual range lever.

they're not....only '85 and '86s got them

holy crap!!!!! that's awesome. there's probably more money into that 'roo' than almost any one here......heck, those tires cost more than I sold my wagon for

yes, but no diff lock. a local guy seems to think that a Mazda 323 GTX locking center LSD can be swapped into an RX case with little modification......although neither of us have actually tried it (he's got all the parts....but no motivation...)

ding ding ding! great trick for any tapered press-fit (tie rod ends too!). give the piece that it's pressed into (control arm for the ball joints) a good whack from the side, and you'll knock the hole slightly out of round for a moment, and force the joint right out of the hole. works wonderfully. much better (hard to believe, I know...) than the jack trick.

I put about 500 miles a week on my loyale delivering the pizzas in downtown duluth. it's definitely hard on the car, but it holds up pretty well.

they definitely do bind, but the strut will reach maximum extension before they actually limit anything.... but good point, they'd restrict things too if a longer strut were used.

^ I would agree, except he's not getting any heat at idle. which means there isn't enough circulation through the heater core at idle. which is the symptom that I'm focusing on. if they're independant problems (i.e. it's not really overheating), then I'd say your heater core is clogged. but if your radiator is good, and the system is pressurizing properly, you could completely bypass the heater core, and still run cool. also, circulation through the heater core is not restricted by the tstat, so that's ruled out. only 2 things I can think of that could cause that, is the water pump itself isn't pushing enough coolant around until the rpms come up. or the system isn't pressurizing. if it's not leaking AFAIK the only way for it to not pressurize is the rad cap. EDIT: I just reread your original post....sorry, you already mentioned what kind of pump it was.... anyway, you also asked if it's possible for it to not move enough coolant. and it's very definitely possible. the water pump on the motor that came out of my loyale and went into my blue lifted wagon was like that. the car would stay cool on the freeway, but sitting still and at idle, no heat, then the motor would overheat, and the radiator was barely warm to the touch. only thing I replaced was the pump itself (all hoses, tstat, radiator, etc. were all reused), and the problem went away 100%. which brings up another question. when it's doing this, have you checked the temp of the radiator? is it getting hot?

ok...my next guess is water pump. you say you replaced it.....what did you replace it with?

mine would do that when my radiator was leaking. and I think the biggest reason was the system wasn't pressurizing. you say you got a new radiator....but how's the radiator cap?

if you're just doing a clutch, I definitely would do it by pulling the motor. but I'd leave the trans where it is. just to pull the trans, I'd jack the front end up, drop the trans out the bottom, and leave the engine where it is. but whatever you like. the driveshaft and axles are the same. no need to change either of those.

whoever told you it wouldn't bolt up must have been thinking of a legacy. the D/R trannies use a 3.9 rear diff....you'll have to check yours, but I think all N/A 5MTs use a 3.9. you can leave the vacuum stuff if you'd like, but it won't be used. it's not hard to remove, so I'd just do that.... only things you'll need is the tranny itself, and the linkage (assuming your car already has a 3.9 rear diff....otherwise you'll need it too).

meh, I'd prefer leaving the motor in..... also, don't need a carb to get low range.

using a hydraulic cylinder with pneumatics doesn't really work all that well.... and like I said, it won't be long before you max out every other component of the front suspension. the rear isn't too complex, so you can get away with alot more..... I say throw some sedan springs on it and see how it goes. you might notice much better travel that way.

^ no need.....the stock springs are pretty well matched, I think you'll find that your maxing out the travel of the struts. very good point. the struts are the immediate limiting factor. but if you put longer travel struts, you'll be maxing other things out in a hurry (control arm, tie rod, axle, etc. etc. etc.) EDIT: I just realized you've got a buggy....so it might not be heavy enough to fully compress the stock springs. what springs are you running now? you may try some from an EA82 coupe or sedan....they're 12 lb/in's softer than the wagon or XT ones, and 20lbs softer than the RX ones.

too much travel = broken joints. but, the struts are the biggest limitation (assuming you don't have a sway bar...). need to find longer travel struts (good luck)

I suspect that might be the case. IMHO, a clutch is not a place to skimp.

yea...I just did a search for project cheap and that's what came up....

the blue brat would be awesome! we need more EA representation in that crowd

the blue one without doors was a wagon with the back cut off...... few lifted sedans around, but they're pretty rare. DrKrazy has a lifted '86 sedan....

tentatively talking June 14 this year

not really....the EA81 axles are shorter. and the control arms are different. putting the inner axle cups from the RX axles on the EA81 shafts is a possibility, otherwise you're looking at some rather hefty modification to the rest of the suspension system. I wouldn't recommend that route unless you're a really good welder.

They did this last year, first time, 63 cars came along. all new-gen. would be sweet to have some old-school representation. we could even call it MW-5? some of the guys not in the Twin Cities are talking about camping, but are a pretty rowdy group, so Sarah and I were thinking of going out of our way to get a camp site somewhere else to make brats and hang around the fire after the festivities. much like at MW-3. few pics from last year: obviously...I didn't make it either no date this year yet, but they're looking at sometime the end of June (last year was June 23). here's what happened last year: 2 1/2 hour cruise to Copeland Park Pavillion in La Crosse. Lunch provided by Rooster Andy's Catering Services. Brats/Hamburgers/potato salad/baked beans. 2 Red Bull girls handing out free energy drinks for an hour or so. Raffle giveaway:Shirts, Hats, Phenolic spacers. Rich even threw in a one night stay at the Ice Races last year! We had sheets made up with SN, mods, year, etc. for the windsheilds. Maps w/video locations marked on them. Group photo. Subaru of La Crosse had some newer model Imprezas there on display.(No 08's) But we tried! Channel 19 news showed up to film and interview. they're talking about adding a softball or kickball game if possible too. anyone here interested?