Numbchux

holy 3-year-old thread batman!!

just the black ones.

I do.....somewhere.....I'll see if I can find them that doesn't really help me. the bushings have to be removed because the NA miata shock shafts don't have the narrower portion at the top for the bushing like the EA82 ones do. BUT, from that picture, it looks like the NB shocks do aswell.....

read the article. connect them with the car completely off, then turn it on without cranking. also, if you're getting 3 slow blinks. I think that means you've got the wrong connectors connected. that's what the D-check mode does. the basic check mode connectors are the black, single-pin ones.

I don't actually have the newer miata shock. but got a guy from the local AutoX forum who's going to sell me a pair cheap. so no direct comparison. I'm going to see if I can't find where I put my stock EA82s though so I can take some more comparison measurements and yes, the spring perch looks extremely goofy. what can I say.....mazda....

if you do go this route (not necessary for this project...but if you want to...), make sure you disconnect the pitch stopper too. and remember, the oil pan isn't a structural point. it'll support the engine and tranny, but if it's hung up on anything don't force it, or you might be looking for a new oil pan, or more.

AFAIK, trouble codes never have a zero in them.....so you may want to check again. here's decent write-up from legacy central....I found a better one a while back, but can't find it now. http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm EDIT: Found it! http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

make sure you replace the rubber grommets on the bolts and don't overtorque them when reinstalling. when I did it, I overtorqued, and a chunk of the cam case broke off and actually made the leak worse

yea, front struts didn't really every change much. the '03 legacy stuff I have sitting here is also virtually identical. the springs are cheap generic coilover sleeves for a GC impreza. used 'em on my 4-lug all-EA82 setup, and still using them on my goofy hybrid setup now. btw, just found the attached picture on ebay. this is of a NB ('99-'05) Miata front shock. I'm working on getting my hands on a pair of these.

pictures. didn't get a chance to take pics of the 4-lug hubs....but here's my XT6 stuff: and the rotor slips on over that: and the 4-lug hubs from a different source: you can see, they're very different!

I'm running an RX trans, and had the center diff locked in for this. yea, it's in St. Cloud IIRC, and put on by one of the offroad clubs. I see it posted on MN-Jeep every year

My car: Engine: '92 Legacy OBD I EJ22e Chassis: '92 Loyale Wagons Tranny: EA82 D/R FT4WD 5spd Other: Mrose Adapter Plate, OBX header, 5-lug swap, RS front brakes, 200SX rear calipers current project: Engine: '96 Impreza OBD II EJ22e Chassis: 1986 GL Wagon Tranny: EA82 D/R 5spd Other: Rear disc brakes, rguyver adapter plate

I think the rear mechanical LSD that really helps. I can easily get this thing into an axis spin.....tighter donuts than any RWD car. I just can't do it in a predictable-enough location to get it on video when I just have the camera propped up on a pylon :-\

no....it's 4WD with rear LSD why would you say RWD?

one word.....Perrin. it's been done, and it'll outrun 99% of the 4-cyl subarus on the face of the planet

it's very close. I know a couple guys running VW wheels on their subaru without a problem.

no, more like the stock subaru one isn't prone to failure like the cherokee is. and, the vast majority of the people putting any money into a power build on a subaru, has a turbo....which means different exhaust.

ok, I had forgotten that the EJ hubs do press into the bearings, and don't ride on the spindle like the EA/ER ones do. but then you're opening the axle "can". I mean, yes, the front track is the same....but is the rear? is there enough clearance in the EA trailing arm for an EJ axle to fit? I know a few local guys.....I'll see if I can scare up enough parts to try a few things.

I don't see how the bearing size and hub size are related. as there's a piece in between....the spindle. if you put EJ-sized bearings in an EA trailing arm, you might be able to put an EJ axle (has the spindle as part of the CV, like an EA front axle) through the bearing. assuming the track is the same. and the XT6 hub is drastically different than an EA82 hub! DRASTICALLY. I'll have the rear end of my wagon apart tomorrow.....I'll take pictures (and also of the 4-lug stuff sitting on the shelf in the shed)

I want to do it too.....but can't afford to buy a pile of donor transmissions. :-\ I also want to get my hands on an EJ D/R case to drop the whole thing into. and a front LSD....and........and.............. ugh

I was looking at my coworker's Mazda 6 today.....and just at a glance, the wheels look like they use much more offset than subaru ones. and the bolt pattern appears, at a glance, to be 5x114.3. could mean if you use that bolt circle, and mazda-fitment wheels, you may be able to get away with thicker spacers. more research on that front will be required. as to what material to be used. I think the question you want to ask there, is what crowd you're marketing this to. the offroad guys will care more about strength than rotating mass.....while the exact opposite is true (to a point....I'll keep a little weight to keep the wheel from falling off) of the street guys. any possibility of making some of each? GLoyale.....I LOVE the adapter bolting to the hub idea! that's brilliant. you could make the adapter hub-centric, and then bolt it on. just have to make sure there's clearance between the hub itself and the caliper.

things to consider..... 5x100 is in demand on USMB and XT6, because that's what old-gen 5-lug subarus use. in fact, only exception to that is the SVX, '05+ STi, and B9 Tribeca. and since a 5-lug swap is generally considered a relatively bolt-on mod, it uses already in production subaru parts.......meaning 5x100. but if the already in production parts where easy to come by....we wouldn't be here. so that argument is rather moot. now, if you're talking about redrilling hubs. 4-lug is a must. as mentioned, the rotor uses a 4-lug pattern, and trying to space a 5-lug pattern within that, would be very difficult (if not impossible) without drastically sacrificing hub strength. another thing to think about with hub drilling, is the hub itself. subaru wheels are hub-centric. however, the center hole in a 5x100 wheel is substantially smaller than a 4x140 one. so some serious machining would be required to modify a 4x140 hub to allow a 5x100 subaru wheel to mate up to it, independent of bolt pattern. then it comes to adapters/spacers. couple things to be said about that. if you use a 1.5" (or something similar to that....would be required to clear the old lugs), unless you compensate with the offset of the wheels, you'll put lots of torque on the bearings that they weren't designed to take. it's virtually impossible to say exactly how much extra wear they'll show, but they'll fail sooner than they would otherwise, that much you can bet on. yes, trucks can get away with it. they're suspension systems are designed to handle more weight. solid axles help a lot, but even rigs running IFS can use wheel spacers, as the bearings used in even the crappiest truck IFS system are substantially more beefy than our subarus' setups. also, running spacers without correcting with offset in the front will effect steering, as the pivot point relative to the contact patch is changed. again, who can say what effect that'll be, but if it were a good one, subaru would have redesigned the knuckle/control arm to move the ball joint a couple inches inward. AND, pushing the wheels out away from the car will complicate fender clearance. short version: when picking the lug pattern, find one for which there's a wide selection of wheels of an offset that will put the contact patch back where it should be (read: a LOT of research). And there will be NO subaru wheel that will work with spacers. so thinking outside of the subaru box is a must!

nope, rear axles, trailing arms, and spindles are the same in a '6. just the hubs, rotors, and backing plates are different. the calipers are the same as any turbo EA82, so pads are easy to find. and the rotors aren't terribly hard to get a hold of. but yes, and XT6 axle will not work with an EA81 control arm.....so you wouldn't have to make any hybrid axles, but you would have to shorten them.... 5-lug is not a terribly attractive option. and swapping to an AWD 5-speed is a whole new can of worms, so it's not a terrible idea to postpone that.

I've got to argue this point. I'm not exactly an EA82 lover (IMHO....the #1 worst motor Subaru has ever made. still puts it pretty high on the list in the grand scheme of things....wouldn't even put it far behind the 22RE, of which I've got one as well), but find that the single core radiator is plenty, assuming there's coolant moving through the system. heck, in my experience, keeping both radiator fans is overkill....even with the single core rad. only times I've ever had overheating issues is either with a bad water pump/tstat, or blown hoses. in fact, I'm running an EJ22e (from a '92 Legacy) on a stock, EA82 single-core radiator with 187k miles on it. without a radiator fan at all. can't leave it idle unless it's below freezing and I leave the heat on (yes, the heater core is enough though when it is below freezing), but other than that, it stays cool just fine. of all the things to gripe about an EA82.....the radiator is just not on the list. all that said, I think you'll be very happy with any of the mentioned choices (EA81, EA82, or early Legacy). I say go with what you find.... also....who pays $2k for.....anything?

sounds like you got it mostly figured out... but for future reference. the volt meter reads volts, and only volts, and is completely unaffected by amps. it should read 10-12v when off...and 12-14v when running. anything other than that, and you've got problems