Numbchux

the problem with AA....is they really aren't a subaru company anymore. they make a few things here and there, but they've moved their focus to weaponry (the armament part of their name...). what kind of steering do you have? I know the manual and power steering systems require a different steering shaft..... and yes, SJR > *

did you pm rguyver? the creater of this thread. he's making them, and is not SJR....

yep, the diagnostic port was retained in the harness modification.

wiring! still more work to do, but I moved the 2 plugs on the engine harness closer to the ECU plug, and then stripped the bulkhead harness down to just the necessities. I'll be shortening all those wires to the relays and such, and installing in the car before the swap. so when the time comes (I only have the garage for the weekend...and I'd like to do it all in a day), I can string it all through the firewall, plug it in, and be ready to rock.

here's a good shot of my yakima guttermounts: they're pretty thick (3/16s, maybe 1/4) wall steel tubing. and the gutter mounts do not interfere with the doors at all. even with the trim on (although I've pulled the trim off of my cars in some way or another....

I have higher res versions of all of these...and brace yourself....I stumbled across a lot that would make good calendar pics. love this shot:

I'm tentatively in for one, pending the final product....but I think it'll be hard to go wrong there.

ordered from performanceradiator.com last Friday.....this arrived today: single row (plenty of cooling capacity, and leftover engine space for the EJ22e). metal endtanks, made in Thailand :-\ , $158 shipped. with the straight outlet!

hmmmm:

problem with the XT6 pressure plate? how do you mean? like not holding the power? my 4-cyl one held the power of the 22e pretty well, but definitely failed before it's time. same number of bolts...same bolts too.

and will allow better brakes!

as I mentioned......the disc itself is interchangeable. you can use a WRX clutch disc on an EA82 flywheel.... the only difference is the teeth where the flywheel meets the starter.....and possibly how the throwout bearing lines up with the pressure plate.

I have the same yakima setup. awesome rack, extremely strong. I haul bikes, a spare tire, even hauled a 40ft extension ladder (2 20 ft sections) on it once. bought it used from a member here years ago, and have had it on 3 cars since then!

that's exactly right....however has no bearing on what flywheel can be used.... looks like I'll have the engine out of my car next weekend (doing a new clutch and replacing my oil pan with the rust holes in it ). I'll see if I can't get a hold of an EJ clutch kit and see how it all compares with the EA stuff....

the light duty part of the rack is the stock mounts. the roof is made of aluminum foil, I've seen those stock rails rip right out of the roof. if you need something more heavy duty than the stock crossbars, get a gutter-mount system.

no, that's why the adapter plate is 1/2" thick....

yarg....may need some creative throwout bearing picking. but the clutch disc itself is the same (or interchangeable, at least...). I think if you could find a way to make the starter engage the EJ flywheel with the EA trans housing....you could make the rest work.

the teeth where the starter engages the flywheel. there's been talk of re-mounting the starter to use the EJ flywheel. but nothing's become of it. I believe Phizinza was the one who's done most of the research, but he ended up just using an EJ trans, so it wasn't an issue. search for his posts....you may find the info to get you started.

no, it's not....I was putting off re-clocking it until I knew how to fix the turn signals while I was in there....maybe they'll fix themselves

damn....I was hoping that it wasn't something like that. it doesn't appear to have anything missing, as it works like it should both directions, just at the wrong places in the wheel's rotation.....

haha, I've got an M. Rose one that's been doing that for about a year and a half.....

well....figured out the one thing. turns out the turn signals themselves have a seperate fuse.... I was working tonight, and noticed that my windows didn't work. got back to the store, whipped out the Chilton's manual (yes...I carry it with me...), studied the diagrams, and sure enough. so I replaced that fuse, and now the turn signals work properly. still wondering how to recenter them though. maybe I'll just pull the steering wheel off and see if I can't figure it out....

couple things.... my left turn signal has been acting strange lately. drawing a lot of power (volt meter jumps back and forth from the normal ~13v down to less than 10 while it's on), and the front light itself hasn't been working. I figured it was something up under the dash, and didn't want to deal with it. anyway, I was driving home from the bank today, and I flipped it on, and it didn't work, and my radio turned off. ok, well, duh, fuse.....done that before. yesterday I had just tapped into the right side wire (lost it in the swap ) in the dash, but hadn't hooked it up to the light itself. so I figured that's what was shorting and blowing the fuse. I taped up the end of that, and put a new fuse in it. I turned the ign on, hit the turn signals, and it did the same thing, and blew the fuse again. anyway, I figured it most be something with the left side....so I decided to pull the light out of the bumper. I found that the power wire was touching the metal outer edge of the fixture, and had rubbed through the insulation. so I pulled it away, put some electrical tape, and just like that, it works again. on the hazards...... now the turn signals don't work, but the hazards do. I think the only variable there is the switch itself.....possible I fried the switch? other ideas? I don't want to pull things apart and replace the switch in the column to have it not help.... question 2. when I was doing the engine swap last summer, I had the engine crossmember and steering rack out of the car. and my buddy said something along the lines of, "I've always wondered if the steering lock was in the column or the rack". and proceeded to grab the steering wheel, and give it a good hard spin. and it spun easily 20 times or more..... well, now my turn signal sensor thingymabober (technical term) isn't centered. so they turn themselves off at the weirdest times. would it be possible to pull the steering wheel off, and the combination switch, and recenter it?

check the vender section. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=35 ShawnW and NoahDL88 I believe are advertising it.

I don't think that's the case. as a transfer case would spin the driveshaft the opposite direction. that's why the divorced tcased guys can use a subaru rear diff up front....