Numbchux

yea....they're hot. the RE92s kinda scare me though.

hmmmmm.....

a custom pinion definitely could be made. BUT, as phiz said.....the fabrication would need to be incredibly precise. and I just don't think the cost required would justify the minimal gains

or put the slushbox on the bottom of a lake where it belongs, and swap it for a real trans getting rid of the drivetrain loss of an auto would give alot more gains then regearing said auto.

only thing unique about those, are the bellhousings. they have the same EJ non-locking center diff as any other EJ AWD box.

I don't think it exists....but it could definitely be made (but probably not for cheap). as mentioned, the only way to do it without using a custom made pinion shaft, is to use the EJ-series center diff (which means no center locker!). you'd have to sacrifice at least 2 trannies....maybe 3 (it's possible that the PT4WD pinion is not removable from the output shaft in the trans. maning you'd need the output shaft from a FT4WD trans, but those only have the 1.196 low range, which would defeat the purpose of the whole thing.....so you'd have to sacrifice a PT4WD DR trans for the 1.592 low range gearset........). and all only for a final crawl ratio change from the stock 22:1 up to a 23.2:1. not at all worth it.....IMO this, however, is not true. the pinion shaft is quite easily removed from the output shaft, just need a vice, an impact wrench, and a 27mm socket. assuming, as previously mentioned, that they're separable on a PT4WD box....

^ what he said. the springs or struts alone will yield about 1.5" of lift. both at once will yield about 3....

hi-rise is australia based. you can get them here in the US. but the shipping cost makes it muuuuch more expensive than any of the US companies.....and not any better.

PoorMansImpreza requested I take these measurements for him....and I thought I'd make them public for anyone who wants to make their own brackets. all 5 holes are exactly 10 mm across. to ensure accuracy, I always measured (with a caliper) from the closest edges of the holes. so in order to place the center correctly, add 5mm to reach the center of the hole. also, the 2 caliper bracket mounts are both 42mm from the center hole and 85mm apart (measured the same way).

final update for today (time to go to work...) bearings and brakes in the rear are completely done. well....sort of.....just noticed a couple of the studs on the other XT6 hub are screwed up....so it'll have to come off.....but the rotors and lines are in. both modified spindles are in. so....another couple pics: and so begins project: custom dampening: now.....if only it would stop raining in my garage

there are only a handful of companies on the planet that make lifts for them.....so finding one local is going to be difficult. BUT. SJR makes an awesome product. very tough (both in construction and design). and less than $700. his requires a bit more work on the installation side. modifying stuff etc. but is the toughest design.... http://www.sjrlift.com and, there's BYB. extremely tough lift. but not so much on the design, although much better for an EA81 than an EA82. BYB/ozified will be by far the easiest install, and the most complete kit. http://www.ozified.com

GD posted this link in another thread, and I couldn't find it anywhere else: http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=275 small progress so far this morning: rear caliper paint is dry (the '02 RS stuff I have was painted red by the PO.....so I thought I'd match the rear) and, I trimmed the tip off the rear spindles to the Rota Centercaps will fit (notice in the pics with the wheel on....there's no center cap....):

problem? I see no problem. getting adjustable trailing arms (which, btw, don't look like they'll have enough adjustment to fully recenter the wheel) is about as important a part of this project as putting an intercooler on an N/A car. the setup you have listed won't yield you much lift over stock. IIRC forester XT springs are comparable length to an impreza. but I could be wrong there. even with just forester springs on your stock struts, you're only looking at ~1-1.5" of lift over stock.

stock miata. will be replacing with KYB AGX's for a miata when the funds become available. update...got one rear wheel bearing removed, cleaned, and repacked. got the new seals in, spindle in, and hub/rotor on. so I thought I'd mount a wheel and take a few pics:

:confused: how can a 3.0l have less torque than a 2.5l :confused: I've never driven one myself, so I don't know. but that concept hurts my brain maybe because they were all mated to 4EATs in heavy cars. the SVX doesn't feel like a terribly quick car in stock form, but an EG33 powered 5MT GC impreza is almost scary fast (got to ride in one of those a couple weeks ago)!

well, you can stuff a little extra grease in there with the bearings still in the knuckles. but that probably won't help much. you really should remove and clean the bearings. new seals aren't too expensive. even from the dealer (you need 4.....and they're only $2-3 each). SOA part numbers are 906250018 for the inner one, and 906250015 for the outer.

if you've already got the engine bay space.....go EG33!

only the '96-'99 outbacks will work. after that, the rear suspension was changed completely. if you get the whole assembly (strut, spring, top-mount). it'll save you some labor, and give you the max lift. probably cost you a bit more, but if you're getting them from a junkyard, you may be glad not to have to disassemble everything in the yard

I'll see what I can do. the size of the center hole will be easy.....but to accurately measure the location of the 3 mounting holes will be very difficult..... got a couple boxes this evening.... inside: every wheel bearing seal for the entire car (XT trailing arms, and legacy knuckles), the EA82 rear wheel bearing socket (smaller, non-Subaru box), one lug stud (there's one missing from my XT6 hubs), and a full set (20) of brand-new acorn style lug nuts. I love our MNSubaru discount at the local dealer

yea, but the ER27 doesn't fit in the place of a 4-cyl either. the EZ motors DO. I too have been contemplating doing an H6 swap using an EZ series. although given the news on NASIOC that the Link G3 will soon be able to decode the CAS signal for the EZ30DR.....I may go that route.

sounds easy, but even making it run without a dash would be a large project.

yep, outback struts will probably be your ticket. bigger tires won't work too well without a little added ride height. they don't have to be new KYB outback struts, anything for/from an outback will do. and IIRC they didn't start until '97. springs are optional, but will add a bit more ride height. stock tire for an outback is 205/70r15. so with outback suspension, that would be a nice step up (2" overall height), and an easy fit.

AH HA. yea, I highly doubt that a subaru air shock would yield any more travel than a coilover one....

the handbrake handle mounting is pretty easy. the legacy handle sits lower than the loyale, but a quick notch in the center console, and it fits fine. the mounting holes are completely different. but I just drilled holes in the driveshaft tunnel, and bought new bolts with nylock nuts to put on the bottom. and yes, I know it's not a true short shifter....but I'm actually not that concerned with the shifter throw.....I'm more concerned with my hand vs. the radio issue

just looked in my '89 FSM. and a 5MT 4WD GL wagon (wagons being the heaviest) has a curb weight of 2615. and the 3AT 4WD versions only weighing 15lbs more than that. but having moved both a 3AT and a DR 5MT, they must be on a diet elsewhere....cause that tranny weighs alot more than 15lb extra!! sedan being the lightest at 2450, with the 3-door close behind at 2505 I just noticed, the 4AT GL-10 turbowagon has a curb weight of 2900 lbs! with the SR FT4WD 5MT turbo at only 2790.....huh