Numbchux

I've owned 2, daily drove them both.....I still stand by my statement. it'll stop faster than most cars.....and it's not really even a car anymore!

well, they didn't make the outback until '97 I believe....but yes.

good point, obviously in emergency situations you want as much as you can get. but knowing what the cars limits are, and avoiding situations that will break those limits will work wonders!

Outback suspension. read the FAQ right here in the offroad section

8" = 203mm.....so a 205mm tire should clear fine. a 215 would create problems. if I have to, I can always get a 5-10mm hub spacer. I highly doubt your roads are as bad as ours (because, honestly, any worse would be impassible). if you're careful, you won't bend any rims.

I hope to have my 4runner running by then.....not sure if it'll be up for a 7-8hr road trip. but I sure would love to go.

if your braking system truly is in good shape.....your car will still stop faster than most cars on the road these days. only option beyond stock EA82t, is 5-lug. use EJ front knuckles, and your brake options become limitless....

I've got a set of 17x8 wheels in the garage awaiting to go on my loyale. here's one bolted up to the rear of my car: 205/40r17 or 205/45r17 are both pretty close to stock diameter. problem is the width. these will not tuck up into the fender wells like stock ones. I don't think any amount of fender rolling will really solve that. so, either stick with the monster truck ride height, or get some stiffer springs/shocks with the hub and wheel bolted down tight, here's the gap between the inside of the rim and the trailing arm:

mine do it too....but only when it's raining I have a feeling it has to do with the sensor in the motor that tells the circuit when the arm is in the 'park' position.....one of these days I'll pull it apart and see if I can't fix it.

for future reference.....it's a 27mm

crap...well.....off to sears. hopefully I guess it right the first time.

my rear diff pinion seal is leaking. I've got the driveshaft off.....only to find that I don't have the right socket size (could it be....another unique nut size on a subaru?! I've got 22mm for the crank pulley, and 32mm for EJ axle nuts....but it's somewhere in between) I want to get the nut broken loose before I go to work (in about 3 hours). so I can drop the diff tomorrow and get things sealed up. anyway....anyone know the nut size so I can go buy a socket? I don't want to just guess (although I'm thinking ~28mm...)

sure is cheaper than a name brand one.....I was looking at a yakima load warrior setup before. this looks like it'll get the job done just as nicely, for a fraction the cost!

disconnect it and drive the car around, on the street, for a couple days. I think you'll find that those mounts are better used for a skidplate good work!

that is very strange....I get a code, but no symptoms with any of my ECUs, one is the '92 that matches the engine, one hand-me-down junkyard one that I believe is a '93, or the one from my dad's '94. I just got a temporary backup daily driver so I'll be pulling the dash apart and hooking up the VSS and a couple other things (maybe actually wire the CEL into the dash....). so we'll see if it runs any different after all that.

I've had non-subaru ones fail many a time on me. in my experience....the OEM ones will last twice as long.

GM100 gutter mount

I don't think the gear has failed. it just won't go into it, the shift boot is off, so you can see the linkage is tight up against the tranny housing (as far right as it will go), and pull back, and then it moves forward.....I don't see how moving the tranny up would help, since the pivot point is on the tranny....it wouldn't change the geometry any.

some old chops of my wagon: not black.....but you get the idea.... btw.....I just bought a set of those wheels yesterday

yep, all EJ dual ranges have the 1.196 reduction, however, the internals are identical to EA stuff.....so the 1.592 can be swapped in. but with the EJ bellhousing an EJ pressure plate/flywheel combo can be used. that forester trans would probably work. only question would be axles, but those of us either putting them in an EJ car, or using EJ front knuckles could easily fix that. let's hear a quote

you in St. Paul? you on MNSubaru.com? if not....you should be!!

fixed

the reed switch should pulse a ground to the ECU. so one side grounded, the other to the ECU, and it completes the circuit. EDIT: heh heh....that's what I get for replying before reading the whole thread. glad to see you got it hooked up!!

'90-'94 Liberty GXs, like I said above. possibly only available in European, British, and Australian markets (not japanese...).

Yes. the axles can take it. everything will bolt right up.