Numbchux

I'm talking about resetting more than just the codes. erase everything that it may have learned about it's new home. which, as far as I know, can only be done by unplugging it for long enough that that flash memory gets reset (overnight, at least).

my EJ22 loyale ran awesome on the stock pump (SPFI) until the dampner on the pump rusted through....btw, still ran awesome with a substantial leak replaced it with one for a turbo, and it runs the same. tony, might want to reset the ECU. with all this messing around with stuff trying to get it to start, you may have confused it. unplug the negative battery terminal overnight, and then give it a whirl..... this was a strong running motor in the donor car, wasn't it?

the EJ axle-back won't fit. the combination of an entirely different design (EAs go over the axle, EJs go under) and different wheel base makes it impossible. you can either bolt up the EA exhaust for a quite, perfectly fitting, and power-robbing exhaust, leave the axle-back (and muffler) off, or go full custom.

yep, the 1/4" drive one is what I have.....removed at least 6 stubs with this same socket

Said it before, and I'll say it again. I've had 1 EA82 wagon with an AA lift, and another with a BYB/Ozified one, and I've gotten parts from SJR aswell as talked to him about his design. if/when I build another lifted Subaru....it'll be an EA82 wagon with an SJR kit. reasoning: BYB: for those looking for a simple, well-built, easy to install lift kit, start wheeling hard and it'll rip your unibody to little pieces in no time flat. SJR: little more pricey, not as simple to install (requires some modification of things, and doesn't come with an extended steering shaft...), but without a doubt, the strongest you'll ever be able to make Subaru IFS. in fact, with his kit, I wouldn't be a bit worried about building some new, beefy control arms and radius rods (wouldn't think of it with a BYB one, the only thing keeping it from immediately destroying the framerails, is that the first few hard hits, the suspension just bends). AA is somewhere in the middle, decent price, just as well built as the other two, easy to install, stronger rear end than the BYB, but virtually identical front setup. http://www.sjrlift.com

I've heated them numerous times. it's hard on the seals, but it'll get 'em of for sure. one particular axle was soooo difficult, I ended up going to a buddies house, and we used the oxy/acetylene torch on it, got it red hot, and then hit it with the air hammer.....it came off eventually. the diff stubs have an E10 torx head. and obviously you need a deep offset socket. Snap-on makes one....

well, I was a little curious about this...so I did some research. Google FTW! looks like wheel hop is caused either by insufficient dampening, too much unsprung weight, or engine/tranny movement. well, since I doubt you added much weight to the control arm when you lengthened it....I'm going to ignore that one. but how are your struts? and are you running a pitch stopper? how about the engine and tranny mounts?

whew.....had me worried there for a minute! glad to hear it worked out, and we've all had our fair share of dumb mistakes. as for the fuel system, it doesn't need priming. if the fuel pump is getting fuel (i.e. tank has some in it, and line is not plugged) it will push it through to the engine (again, assuming the lines aren't plugged, and the pump is pumping the right direction). so, go back and double-check your wiring. you said you switched the wires around, right? I would suspect that red is + and black is ground. you're close! there's light at the end of that tunnel....and I think we can pretty safely say it's not a train :banana:

if the fuel pump is coming on, then there's something wrong with your testing methods at the relay.... unplug the main relay (brown, 6-pin), and check for power at the 2 large yellow wires. then plug in the main relay, and unplug the fuel pump relay (green plug, 4-pin), and check for power at the 2 yellow wires with the ignition on. the fuel pump cannot come on without power to both of them.

I'm confused....did you hear the fuel pump come on? if you don't have power at the large yellow wire on the fuel pump relay (should come straight form the main relay)....than the pump can't come on. so if you don't have power....you're obviously not going to have fuel....so check the fuse, than check for power at the main relay, than the fuel pump relay, than the few places on the engine.

bump stops keep you from bottoming out your shocks, which is extremely hard on them. do what you like, but your comparison is hardly relevant. your car is still setup for street use. while your SUV is engineered (even if it is a Kia) for offroad use much more than the subaru. but remove your bump stops (or install a lift....effectively same result) and sway bar, and you'd get another 4-5" of total flex....easy. do this with your sway bar and bump stops (which....as far as travel goes, is the only difference):

come again? it doesn't go away? or it doesn't happen?

on the rocks up here....momentum will get most of the car over the obstacle.....but you'll probably leave your wheels and much of the suspension before it

TCU = tranny control....if you're not using the EJ 4EAT....you won't be using those. and an unplugged wire = a cut wire, except ones alot messier! easiest way to find the dash wires, is with an ECU pinout (like the one included in the writeup). find what you're looking for, find the pin, trace the wire, and mark it.

wow....let's get a few things straight the car will start fine without a neutral start switch. in stock form, the neutral start switch will bypass the starter relay, and nothing else. so, if it's turning over, that's not your problem. next, the alternator does nothing but charge the battery. car will run fine without it. the fuel pump shouldn't cycle on and off repeatedly. it should turn on for a couple seconds as soon as you turn the ignition on, and then turn off....and stay off until you start the car. I have it wired (how I did it on mine) EVERYTHING on the engine harness that needs power, gets it directly from the main relay. and the main relay gets it straight from the battery, that little green wire from the relay simply turns the relay on/off....if it's cycling, you've got the test mode connectors connected. there should be 2 pairs of plugs right next to the ECU, each with 2 wire, one pair is green, the other black. all 4 of these should be unplugged (one pair is check mode, the other is test). I don't know if test mode would prevent power anywhere.....but it can't help. SO, plan of action (starting simple): 1. unplug test/check mode connectors 2. check the fuse wired in just after the battery. if this is blown, you won't have power to the whole circuit (although if the fuel pump works at all, theoretically the fuse should be fine...but it can't hurt to check it) 3. check for fuel delivery (also not likely to be your problem, but would be good and easy to check). unplug the line between the underhood fuel filter and the engine and insert into suitable container, turn ignition on. fuel pump should cycle on for a moment, and you should have fuel coming out. 4. get/make yourself a 12v test light, and check for power to the main relay. both of the 2 yellow wires should have power all the time. then check for power from the relay, both yellow with red wires should have power with ign on and relay plugged in (you can reach a contact pretty easily from the back of the relay plug with the relay plugged in. 5. use said test light to check for power at the yellow with red stripe wires on all 4 injectors, and the 02 sensor plug, and the yellow wire at the coil (again...I know :-p ). 6. report back

I'm going to go out on a limb here.....and guess your subaru still has the front sway bar, and is resting on the bump stop in the rear. that's pretty crappy travel. hardly comparable. the shocks won't lift the car..... chevelle shocks are very soft the rancho/rough country ones I listed are designed for offroad use, and are valved as such. and since you're still using your stock torsion bar, it won't effect it that much, because your "spring" rate doesn't change, just the damping

are you sure it's actually maxing out your suspension? I can't imagine how that would be possible in FWD. I could spin the front tires with the EA82 without maxing anything out... do you have adjustable struts? stiffer front springs? sounds more to me like you're experiencing power + FWD + less than ideal street tires.

as mentioned, the gray 4-pin plug on the left of pic 1 is the 02 sensor wire. the 3 plugs are plugged in correctly, those are your crank and cam angle sensors, and knock sensors. they come through the center of the firewall on the legacy, and can come up through the hole behind your drivers' side strut tower on the EA82. along with the MAF, and 02 sensor wires. I could be wrong, but the one you're holding looks like the Master Cylinder fluid level plug. you don't have to remove the engine control stuff from the EA82. I did, and it made for a much cleaner install in the end, but added quite a bit of work, and now my right front turn signal doesn't work (ditto on the horns...). the biggest reason I did it, is my loyale was an AT....so there was a bit more wiring (only a 3AT though....so mostly just stuff for the dash and shifter).

no, I don't have a neutral switch or VSS hooked up in my car. runs awesome. does throw CEL codes for them.....but I don't have the CEL wired into the dash, so I don't have to look at it unless I want to that's just weird....I'll have to check the diagrams and stuff....My car doesn't do that, and I've never seen any other older subaru do that (the new STis and whatnot do some goofy thing like that when you turn on the ignition....).

the mustache bar has no bearing on ride height. and there are numerous ways to lower the diff to prevent axle damage. be it blocks at the mounts (like AA and BYB) or a plate to relocate that mount (like SJR), or a full custom mustache bar. AND, that's only the rear mount for the diff. still have to do something with the front mount...

well, that is where the transmission crossmember for the auto's mount....AA calls it the shift linkage gaurd in their lift kit. that's my wagon pictured in your post with the lift in it, shortly after that was taken, I removed that crossmember, with no negative effects (but with it gone, was able to raise my exhaust a couple inches

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50400

in that case, why don't you read the thread you already created about this very topic, in which I gave you a full write-up of exactly how to get 10-12" of travel out of each rear corner. complete with numerous part numbers. here's a link in case you'd forgotten how to search http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75307 I'd offer to spell it out for you.....but I already have.

well...if you're spending 5 digits on shocks/springs/struts....you might as well have some custom long travel axles made too. boy, I wish I had the kind of money to have some custom, long travel coilovers made for an older subaru!

search for dual trannies on pirate4x4.com. there's always someone over there doing it on they're crawlers. seems more common in the yota minitrucks. I don't much see the point, I think dual cases would be much more effective, and far lighter and far smaller.