Numbchux

Rustoleum Flat Black rattle can: I realize the blue is different...but you get the idea

I would think so aswell. I cut off the stock muffler on my blue '88 lifted wagon, and replaced it with a Thrush Glasspack. awesome sound, WAAAYYY more power (well...as much as can be expected from that simple of a mod).

well, I found it, the key to getting virtually any suspension setup for your EA82 subaru....MIATAs!! 1989-1997 miatas use a very simple coilover shock design much like the EA82 rear end. from left to right. miata rear, EA82 subaru rear, Miata front, BE Legacy rear (which can also be used...read on) the key difference, is the upper mount. the subaru ones use a large, rubber bushing in the upper mount. the BE shock is too wide to even fit into the bushing, as well as too short to reach all the way through it. the miata ones are narrow enough, but still not long enough. solution? remove the bushing now, the hole in the upper mount is too large (this is an EA82 upper mount minus the bushing on a miata shock): so, I went to home depot, and bought a bag of 3/4" flat washers. and sandwiching the upper mount between 4 washers, converted it to a solid mount: this same method could be used with BE/BH legacy stuff. also, if I had a welder, I'd weld the washers to the mount.....but I think this'll work fine. full coilovers (tein or the like) for a newer legacies can be used....but a bushing is required because the lower bolt is smaller on the EA82 than the legacy. not so with miata stuff. the lower bushing fits perfectly on the EA82 trailing arm: finished product: aftermarket support for NA (chassis code) miatas is virtually endless. so if you can match it with the front (5-lug), you can probably find it for the rear too. the bad news? Miata shocks have quite a bit less travel. only about 5" compared to the EA82s almost 6.5". and the lengths are a bit less than ideal. at full extension, the Miata rears are about 16" long, and the fronts are about 20" (the same as stock EA82s). I'm using rears here, because I've got the car pretty slammed. but once I go 5-lug, and go to stuff bigger (both wider and taller) tires in there I'll use fronts and only drop the car an inch or so. also, there isn't a stock spring that'll work easily with this application. so a coilover spring that has it's own upper perch will need to be used. be it cheap ebay ones like I have now, or Ground controls... I intend to run Ground control springs and KYB AGX shocks all around. on a side note, I decided to replace the rear brake pads while I had things apart....so I went and bought new pads. while I was driving back from Checker auto parts...I heard a clunk. and when I got home, I found this:

the difficult part is not finding a rear axle, it's mounting one. save yourself the effort and just pick up a nissan or isuzu or yota rear axle. then you'd even have low gear options (assuming you're also doing divorced tcase), aswell as locker options

I got a new one from napa....IIRC it was like $45.

I'm embarrassed to say that's my car. man what a crappy soldering job. buuut....I did that setup a year ago in a hurry, and haven't had a reason to touch it. it's worked wonderfully. I've never been left with a dead battery in anything above -30*F (and then I got a dry-cell battery ) the large white wire that attaches to the stud on the alt is unmodified EA82. and the other 2 is just the EJ plug on the end of the EA harness.

yep, that's the dampener. I had mine rust through last fall..... only way I could find to replace it, was to replace the whole pump :-\

my loyale one worked fine. shorter than I'd like, so it takes a pretty tight bend, but doesn't kink.

yep, there's a little hardline, about 6-8" long with male connections on both ends that go on the high pressure side. it will solve the problem you have. I don't remember which car this came off of, but you have both....go see if it's still attached to the lines on the legacy, or the EA pump. EDIT: found a pic that shows my PS lines, this pic is supposed to show my rad fan sensor, but you can see the lines. that is stock loyale lines (now plugged into an '86 XT steering rack)

replace the piping between the tb and MAF with something solid....like PVC (yea, laugh all you want, but it'll work). but if the ECU doesn't know how much air is going in (via the MAF), it won't know how much fuel to use.....which will cause many problems.

yea, if you want to see some crazy stuff....look up "PHATsuby's crazy project" (thread title) in the NASIOC legacy section. That's the TT EZ30DR that I was referring to. he's doing some really cool, and extremely unique stuff to make that work. and the oil circulation system he had to use is insanity!

yea, but do you have the time and fabrication skills/equipment to make it work? go to a junkyard, and get yourself a decent loyale radiator. it'll fit right in, and the lower outlet points straight out (instead of the steep upward angle like the GL ones).

I know of 2 people doing full custom twin turbo setups here in MN. one on an EG33, and the other on an EZ30DR. but bother are parrallel. and, in all reality, with tuning and other technology where it is today, there isn't much need for 2 turbos on a 4-cyl. sequential or otherwise. although I'm sure it's been done.

hmmm.... tremclad being the canadian version here's a thread, in which he explains how to get awesome results using this method. http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1 seriously, read all of his posts (username 69chargeryeehaa) I intend to paint my 4Runner soon, hopefully followed by the loyale

yep, my loyale rad keeps my 22e plenty cool. I just found out the relay for my rad fan circuit died.....huh.....never even noticed.

I've never had problems, even on the outer joints in the front..... they're so close to the center, the balance issue is extremely minor. it might make your wheel bearings die 1k miles sooner.....but in the grand scheme of things..... ANND, I've never been able to get a real live CV boot clamp tight enough. maybe I'm just special needs, and can't make it work. but a hose clamp is extremely easy to get plenty tight. no worries.

I don't really have any clue what you're saying there.... OB struts and 2" scorpion lift springs for an outback would yield 5-6". but stock outbacks have a small body lift (I believe it's an inch or less....just to ease axle angles). I wouldn't run the scorpion springs without it. besides, 29" tires are pretty much the biggest tire you can fit under the spring perches on the outback struts, and you'll easily fit that without the lift springs.

no, outback/baja/forester struts will yield about 1.5-2", stock outback/baja/forester springs will yield another 1.5-2". Scorpion lift springs for an outback would yield ANOTHER couple inches. outback, baja, and forester stuff is virtually identical in height. but ever so slightly different in dimensions (spring diameter, upper strut bolt patter, etc.). Meaning forester stuff would have the same result, just more work to get there. also, I'm fairly certain that the forester is lighter than the outback, so when installed under a legacy, forester stuff might even be lower. fender, overhang, and wheelbase dimensions make a forester seem taller than an outback (not to mention the body is taller....making the roof taller). but the suspension is virtually the same.

now who's the one doling out the misinformation....:-\ 20H/Rs are sequential. not staged, or parrallel. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twin-turbo when they work, they work pretty well. putting down all the power of your standard EJ20t (a nonspecific term to reference any single turbo 2.0l EJ engine), with very little lag. because the smaller turbo spools almost instantly. in stock form, they leave a hole between where the smaller turbo peaks and the bigger one is just beginning to spool up, but I think some tuning and exhaust work, coupled with some carefully selected turbos, you could eliminate this. East Coast Swappers just finished putting a complete, stock EJ20H into an impreza (converted to RHD....of course). some cool info on it....I'll try to find the link. but yes, the extra complexity does sacrifice some reliability, but so does a single turbo over N/A. sometimes a price worth paying. edit: added a pic of an EJ20H that I had saved on my computer

take the wheel off....you'll soon see what's the problem I did something much like that in my loyale, except it destroyed the wheel and tire that was on there aswell. new control arm and leading rod, and it's good as new... well, now, 3 years later, I'm finding the damage when the tire hit the fender made it EXTREMELY difficult to mount my body kit

Look, misinformation or not, keep it civil. you've been here a couple months, you should know that the people here specialize in older gen. it's just like going onto NASIOC and asking if anyone knows the difference between an '88 Coupe and an '88 Hatch. EJ20t means it's a 2.0l EJ-series motor with a Turbo, could be any one of the many combinations therein, 20G, 20K, 205, 207 etc. long story short, if you're going to be a jackass, don't revive the 2 year old thread.

those are not stock I beleive my 4Runner has 4.10s, I don't remember exactly, but I do know it's specific to the turbos.

yea, it's dropped a good 3-4". using generic coilover conversion springs for an impreza. they have an adjustable sleeve that allows me to select the exact ride height.

yep, the front outer CVs are pretty crucial... but everything else could be done. but would require quite a bit of custom work.

nah, this car is going to be parked within the next week or so....and the next time it drives, will be on WRX split-5s!