Numbchux

look around. that's a pretty crappy price, even if it were to include everything you needed (which it doesn't). also, look around the forum. stickied at the top of this section, as well as in the repair manual (USRM link at the top of the page), and on my website @ http://www.numbchuxconversions.com there's a very large write-up with everything you need to consider.

#2 and 1 share the same coil. 2 and 4 are on different coils. but none the less, the NGK was definitely in the worst condition, and was still running better than the champion. #2 was definitely in the worst condition of the champions though. I didn't look at the old plugs. but I'll take a peek (they're in the boxes waiting to be thrown out...) and see if I can tell. it sure looked like the NGK had 130k miles on it....definitely could have been factory (yikes!). so I was thinking one of those 2 scenarios, probably the former.

did a compression test and new plugs today. compression checked out at 190psi (+/- 5) on all 4 on a cold motor, so not a burned valve. it had champion plugs in $1,2 & 3. and a nasty NGK in #4. seems to be fixed.....

today I swapped #2 and #4 plug wires. and pumped some SeaFoam through it. with zero change. I bought some new NGK plugs, and have another coil and igniter (although I'm hesitant to suspect either, as I bet the wasted spark design would cause a misfire on #4 as well) to try tomorrow. I will also try to get my hands on a compression tester while I'm in there (god I hope it's not a burnt valve ).

as mentioned before, your car is a long way from being much....but not without potential. a little work on the stock motor (as mentioned, head job and delta cams) would give it a bit more grunt, and some rear disc brakes would make it hella fun to drive. But to make it anything other than a slow car that's extremely fun to take to the limit on a regular basis, you'll be in for some major investment. and not just money, hundreds and hundreds of hours. Here's my '92 Loyale, essentially as it sits now (different suspension = taller stance.....but you get the idea): (click the pic for write-up, more pictures, and a video) able to hang with a stock '05 Mustang GT in a straight line 0-70. turn circles around that 'stang in the twisties. put down competitive ice racing times. haul 8' lumber. And get close to 30mpg doing it. But I've been researching, modifying, tinkering, and upgrading old subarus for the better part of 5 years (and I'm a rank amateur by comparison to many members here). And doing it any other way would be a waste of time and money (which is why you don't see a list of what you "should" do here....). As for an online source.....this is it. find fellow USMB members with the parts, and who are willing to part with them (I'm still debating....).

they certainly are, don't even need to remove the cover. they're just threaded in. you'll probably need to get your hands on a stud extracter, although the jam nut trick might work.

unknown history on both. but, being DOHC, replacing them isn't a small job....so I wanted to be sure. And, my EJ22e had some pretty nasty plugs and wires on it, and I noticed exactly zero difference when switching from fouled autolites to NGKs....

'96 Legacy Outback Wagon, 4EAT, DOHC EJ25D, 126k miles. mysterious rough-running, stumbling, etc. only while under load (not necessarily driving, but never does it in park or neutral). noticeably aggravated by the A/C compressor (symptoms come and go as the compressor cycles on and off), although sometimes the symptoms appear independent of the A/C. occasionally the CEL will flash for a minute (indicating misfire....), plug in the code reader, and it's always cyl. 2. quick visual inspection of the engine bay doesn't reveal any noticeable problems. Thoughts?!

oh man.....I have to take all that interior trim out of the back?

I've got a few rust spots peeking out from under the trim under the rear side windows on my loyale (it used to be a Florida car.....rusting from the top down...). I want to get behind there to take care of it (hoping it's not found it's way behind the window molding!), but I'm not sure how this trim comes off.......I really don't want to just start yanking on it

yep, the huckster...... add an external tranny cooler to that trans, and it'll hold up muuuuuuch longer.

I'm not sure I follow your description exactly, but, my carrier mount is just bolted to the tranny tunnel. I bent a little bracket, drilled a hole in the tunnel on each side (had to remove the seats...), and used a bolt and nylock nut to bolt the bracket to the tunnel, and then the bracket to the carrier. there really isn't any force on it, just weight. the tranny tunnel has held up just fine for almost 2 years and almost 30k miles. BUT, the passenger side hole was drilled a bit too far forward, which put just a little bit of torque on the bearing. in those 30k miles, that bearing is in pretty rough shape. I will probably have a one-piece driveshaft made in the next month or so.

know anyone who uses all 6 cylinders and has had it last more than a year? I know one guy, but he drives like an old woman...... I'd be worried, but it'll help a ton that your '6 weighs what, 700lbs less than the outback?

yea, the EZ's aren't exactly torque monsters, but they peak lower and sooner than 4-cyls. I don't know anyone who's done a 5MT swap into an EZ30D car, but I wouldn't do it....

and then realize why subaru never offered a 6-cyl + 5MT combination......they can't handle the torque. 6MT or auto.

IIRC the DOHC ones don't have the place for it....but the SOHC ones might.

I've never heard anything about subaru trannies sharing parts with nissans or mazdas, but I suppose it's possible. but, all subaru 4EATs (that's 4-speed Electronic Auto Trans) are almost identical in design. only differences are gear ratios, and there are a few different designs for the torque converter (just means the converter and flex plate have to match the trans). so any subaru 4EAT will work, provided you have the flex plate, TQ, and rear diff (might not need those things....but it might be cheaper to get your hands on a whole car). also, while you're in there, add on an external trans oil cooler, this will greatly increase the longevity of the new trans.

it's different for imp v. leg. all I know for sure is all 1st gen leggies had stubs.

I put the same years in for all EA82s. so obviously the RX years aren't quite right, but you get the idea. now I just have to add in lengths also, 2.5" ID springs available from Ground-Control fit perfectly in the rear. I've got some 12" long 250lb/in ones in the back of my car. awesome handling, and higher-than-stock ride height (maybe an inch of lift...).

...

AFAIK, the SVX should be a VLSD r160. (definitely an r160 though...if you've got both, put 'em up next to each other, the 180 is substantially bigger). front and rear diffs are very different. you can put a front LSD designed for an EJ-series 5MT into an EA-series 5MT. but you can't put a rear diff in the front.

quoted for truth! if you've still got 4-lug, your options are quite limited. the universal sleeves are usually very stiff, and low quality springs. Also, I've driven a couple cars with Tien, BC and Megan Racing full coilover systems, and I really didn't like the quality on either (from a comfort standpoint....but if all you're after is an insanely stiff suspension, just get the cheap coilover sleeves.....and from the guys I know running them, none of them really hold up very well over time). That said, a set of Ground Control sleeves (genuine Eibach springs, any spring rate, IMHO 185/250 F/R works well for an EA82) will cost less than any full coilover option, and be higher quality than anything you can get for less than $3k, and still very adjustable.

o rly?! I didn't know that.......

just stick with legacy parts. many other brake options (IMHO RS stuff will be plenty, but you can always upgrade to WRX, STi Brembo, or bigger aftermarket...), and if those joints aren't strong enough....you're going to be breaking other stuff first. I just hopped on RockAuto.com. SVXs have a 25 female splines. and since I know that other EJ series 4EATs are a direct drop-in into SVXs....I would assume the axles will work just as easily as EJ stuff.

yea, the hole where the control arm bolt is larger on most XT6 arms (seems that FWD ones are the exception...). but that only takes a few minutes to hit the holes with a drill bit. don't even need to take it out. I'd leave it as-is.