Numbchux

quoted for truth! if you've still got 4-lug, your options are quite limited. the universal sleeves are usually very stiff, and low quality springs. Also, I've driven a couple cars with Tien, BC and Megan Racing full coilover systems, and I really didn't like the quality on either (from a comfort standpoint....but if all you're after is an insanely stiff suspension, just get the cheap coilover sleeves.....and from the guys I know running them, none of them really hold up very well over time). That said, a set of Ground Control sleeves (genuine Eibach springs, any spring rate, IMHO 185/250 F/R works well for an EA82) will cost less than any full coilover option, and be higher quality than anything you can get for less than $3k, and still very adjustable.

o rly?! I didn't know that.......

just stick with legacy parts. many other brake options (IMHO RS stuff will be plenty, but you can always upgrade to WRX, STi Brembo, or bigger aftermarket...), and if those joints aren't strong enough....you're going to be breaking other stuff first. I just hopped on RockAuto.com. SVXs have a 25 female splines. and since I know that other EJ series 4EATs are a direct drop-in into SVXs....I would assume the axles will work just as easily as EJ stuff.

yea, the hole where the control arm bolt is larger on most XT6 arms (seems that FWD ones are the exception...). but that only takes a few minutes to hit the holes with a drill bit. don't even need to take it out. I'd leave it as-is.

headers will be fine. and in that much water, the intake will be aswell (it's behind the passenger side headlight...). and yea, like Phiz said, I wouldn't make a habit of it if you care about the car. it can get in bearings, brake calipers, axles, ball joints, rear diff, u-joints, etc. etc.

I'm assuming engine crossmember? why is your turbo crossmember modified? and even if it is, don't need to swap it out to go 5-lug. the XT6 engine crossmember will fit. but the XT6s use a very different power steering system, and, as a result, I don't think the EA82 steering rack will bolt up the crossmember, and converting to the XT6 system would be a definite downgrade.

the SVX is to the legacy as the XT6 is to the EA82. similar.....but quite different. biggest difference, is they have a different lug pattern, 5x114.3 instead of the XT6/legacy 5x100. so if you use SVX knuckles etc. in the front, and XT6 stuff in the back, your lug pattern won't match also, the front brakes are comparable in size to WRX stuff, but the rotor has a different offset than any other subaru, making it entirely not swappable. the SVX does, however have an r160 rear diff. I'm not sure how the axle stubs work, but it could probably be used in an EA car. I don't remember them having rear LSDs though....

I had that problem on one of my lifted wagons. after a week or so I managed to get it so it could be moved by hand, but it still wouldn't release on it's own, everytime I used the ebrake, I'd have to get out, reach around the tire, and manually release it. I spent a couple months like that, trying to clean and lubricate it, and it never got any better. IMHO, time for a new caliper.

didn't you already have this problem? or am I thinking of someone else. check those vacuum lines, the one from the engine over to the solenoids on the driver side strut tower, and the 2 from there down to the trans. otherwise, there's a lever on the passenger side of the trans that controls it. good luck moving it by hand though :-\ also, try jacking up one end of the car, that will definitely release any binding you've got.

well, it's certainly possible. but submerging an engine, especially a modern electronically controlled one, is bound to cause some problems. the biggest concern is the intake. if you suck up a large quantity of water into the engine, you'll hydrolock it, and potentially destroy it. but, that isn't the only concern. although it's hard to tell in this low-quality video clip, my intake was bone dry from this stunt... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=8529&cat=500&ppuser=3242 the electronics (specifically the distributer, something your legacy doesn't have, but the point remains) got soaked, and while I didn't do any major damage to the engine, I was still very much stuck in that hole. which made for a very bad day!! heck, the whole next week or so was pretty miserable as I was trying to clean that all up: But, maintain a proper bow wave (I'm going a bit too fast, you can see the low spot in the water is right under me.....ideally that low spot should be in the engine bay), and you can get through more water than you might think: if that isn't enough, get yourself some dielectric grease, and seal up every electrical connection you can find. spark plugs/wires, injectors, ignitor, engine harness plugs, idle air control valve, coil, etc. etc. etc. and then relocate your intake (even just up near the firewall will help.....or go all out and make a snorkel that gets air from up near the top of the windshield). like this:

you'd be moving all 6 lugs. they'd have to be centered, and they'd have to be balanced. means big $$$ to a machine shop. and, 31s are enormous for a subaru

it'd be exactly the same as using an AWD trans, except you wouldn't have to worry about the driveshaft. custom trans crossmember/mount, and modified linkage, and you're hot to go.

FYI. on all my EA82 5-speeds. I noticed a huge improvement from just gear oil, to a half quart of Rislone in with lube of choice, and very little improvement from rislone to the cocktail. And the rislone option is MUUUUUUUUUUUUUCH cheaper. I'd recommend trying that first.

with emphasis on "should". it'd definitely be an improvement.

the cocktail is just for the shifting synchros. no need for it in just a differential, just some nice gear oil with a little LSD additive would be plenty.

I looked into this this winter.....we had a MNSubaru club member who was living in Japan, and was regularly shipping over cool JDM stuff (mostly grills, wings, fog light covers and wheels). So I had him research EJ D/R trannies, and he came up completely empty handed......

I'm quite certain it could be done. but, as mentioned, EJ series cars are MUUUUUCH heavier. and, you'd have to use an EA trans, which means custom driveshaft, linkage, FWD imp axles, etc. the EA81 is a great engine, but I really don't think it'd be worth the effort.

normally, I trust anything SJR makes.....But my experience has led me to believe differently. I ran about 1.5" of suspension on the front of my AA lifted wagon, and I burned through many axles, almost always inner DOJs and on the freeway. whereas I was also running 2" of suspension in the rear, and didn't have a problem (as long as you don't count the weekend I was running a bit more than 3" and broke 2 rear axles in 2 days)

it's really not. I've done 2 early OBD II harnesses now (one '96 imp EJ22, and another '97 EG33). They're really not any more than the OBD I, all the same wires are there, except it's more important that they're all hooked up (VSS, neutral switch, etc.). only real difference is the location of the plugs on the engine. the OBD I plugs are over next to the battery, which makes it easier to line up with the EA car. but the OBD II ones are certainly do-able. BUT, remember that starting in 1997, ALL subaru engines are interference. so, a little more power, but IF your tbelt breaks you risk substantial engine damage. yes, my '96 imp bulkhead harness would match up to a '96 legacy 2.2 engine harness. wire colors are different, but locations are the same. not sure what 2L you might be referring to. the only 2.0s in the US are WRX turbo ones, starting in 2002. while bolting one up to the trans is exactly the same, you're opening a whole different can of worms with every other aspect of the project. you can get an entire donor car (I'd HIGHLY recommend this!!! you have a better idea of the condition of the motor, and you know you'll have everything) for less than 700 (around here, rusted out but strong running first gen legacies go for 2-300....). if the motor already runs, I wouldn't bother rebuilding. but, while it's out, I'd do: valve cover gaskets (and grommets) tbelt main and cam seals water pump maybe reseal the oil pan (EJs don't use a gasket from the factory....just RTV, but you can get a gasket from any auto parts store. either way works well) and all coolant hoses anything else would be overkill and unnecessary cost (again, assuming you've got a strong running motor, which is virtually impossible to test unless you have the whole donor car).

suspension lift on a subaru means broken CV axles. get yourself a body lift, and SJR makes some really high-quality ones. as for the wheels, they will have a large impact on what kind of tires you can get for what price. do some tire research before you get new wheels.

the internals between an EA82 5MT and the early EJ 5MTs are virtually identical. plenty strong. But I would upgrade from the 4-speed. if you're going to be offroading it, you'll want the dual range and true 4WD from an EA82-series trans, otherwise if it's mostly for street use, just use the EJ AWD 5-speed. although, if using an EJ or EA82t trans, you'll run into axle spline issues. as for the harness, IIRC a new one from subaru is $700 or so . but you may find something used, heck, I've got a '96 impreza Lx 2.2 bulkhead harness here that's without a home. was going to put it into an XT here in MN, but that project fell through.

yes, guys have welded up the viscous center diff (a guy in the Twin Cities did it and pulled his front axles.....RWD impreza!). but you can't run that on the street.

^his '86 RX trans is PT4WD (assuming it's actually an '86 trans, I believe the '87 would be FT4WD). yes, the legacy tranny will be 50/50, assuming that the amount of resistance on all 4 wheels is the same. BUT, if you're offroad, and you have way more traction in the rear than the front (for example), the center diff will slip some, and won't send all the power to the rear. it's far from an open diff, so it will still send quite a bit of power to where it needs to be, but not all of it, and if you're in a hairy situation it definitely might not be enough. and yea, an XT6 clutch is plenty to hold EJ22e power. so, unless you're expecting a lot more power, don't sweat the clutch.

what are you planning on doing with it? if you'll be wheeling it at all, you'll want the locking center diff instead of the LSD. I like my RX lo range for around town, but only because I also have FT4WD. also, the EA82 and EJ trannies are different lengths. so if you use the EJ trans you'll have to have your driveshaft modified again.

why are you asking us? it's your car. I prefer them mounted out.....but that's on my cars.