Numbchux

most early ABS systems are so focused on allowing you to turn, that they drastically sacrifice straight-line stopping. only newer (STi and '06+ for subarus) systems take into account steering angle, weight transfer, etc. to be truly effective. These sensors would be even harder to make work right, and without them, the system is useless. for example, this winter, about an inch of snow on the ground. I had to borrow my girlfriend's '96 Outback for work. the ABS was pissing me off, so I did a little test. little un-tracked stretch of road, see how fast the car stopped from 15mph with ABS, then I un-plugged one of the wheel sensors (disabling the system), and tried it again. making no effort to keep the wheels spinning, just locking them up, and stopped in a fraction of the distance. All that being said. if you're going 5-lug, I think it would be possible to retrofit the crappy old ABS system into them. use EJ front stuff, easy. and take a look at the XT6 rears. I'm pretty sure the XT6s were intended to have ABS at some point, or in some market. the 5 extra holes in the hub are almost exactly the same as how the front tone rings are attached to 1st gen legacy hubs. and there's a set of holes in the backing plate that would be perfect for a sensor. both visible in this picture:

I haven't had a pitch stopper since my swap......overkill IMHO.

+1 well except I'm about to roll over 35k on mine

not using 4 bolt holes isn't an extra step. in fact, it's one less step :-p. the hydraulic clutch (much more common on '98+ setups) will be a much larger hurtle. of course, still one that would be required for the 6-speed. forgot to comment on the tach thing. an XT6 tach will read just fine with an EG33. EA82s have a distributer, and their tach reads an EJ22 perfectly. the signal wire gets grounded every time a cylinder fires. which means that any 4-cyl tach will read 1/3 higher on a 6-cyl. And, the XT dash is substantially different than a GL. so I don't think an XT6 cluster would look stock at all. you might be able to pull the clusters apart and swap just the one gauge, but I doubt it. probably going to have to get an aftermarket tach and mount it as cleanly as possible (maybe a small digital one?). separating the SPFI stuff from your old harness is possible, but will be difficult without damaging everything else. you'd be better off finding another donor for an SPFI conversion. and no, the carbed stuff won't work either. there were some major fundamental wiring changes from the '85-'86 cars to the '88+ ('87 was some of each....).

yea, sorry. that wasn't very clear. scotty's cocktail is better than rislone, so if it isn't perfect with rislone, switch. but if it's still pretty bad, don't bother. I thought there were some S/R FT4WD GLs. the XT6s with that drivetrain have 3.9:1 diffs though.

sounds like a cool setup. but at that point, my recommendation is to scrap the subaru engine/trans. it's going to add a level of complexity (and cost!) to it that IMHO isn't worth it unless you're dead set on keeping it all subaru (which, obviously, you're not). if you're running 34" tires, and 250 hp n/a. I wouldn't even consider a 5-speed. of course, the 6-speeds are the size of an EJ 4EAT, which, as documented by GLoyale (I think), don't fit in EA tranny tunnels in the stock location. so if you do that, you won't be able to push it back at all. a real RWD trans would fit better in the tunnel, and hold up better (AWD trannies aren't really designed to just use the rear output). And if you're not using a subaru trans, why bother with the subaru motor. I'd start looking into Chevy 4.3 V6s. that'd give you the power you seek, easy tranny/tcase options, and small/light enough to still work well in the subaru.

try some new gear oil with a little (1/2 quart) Rislone Engine Treatment (yes, in the trans) in it. that'll help clean/smooth things out quite a bit. if that doesn't solve the problem, go for the pricier Scotty's Cocktail. if you can live without the low range. I believe (someone please correct me if I'm wrong) turbo GLs got a single-range FT4WD tranny that would still use the 3.7 axle ratio (match your rear LSD), have 25-spline axles (match your axles), and have the center diff lock.

unlifted EA82 with EJ22 and borla headers for me! I'd be happy to take some pictures and measurements of said headers too.

Yes, if your radiator is damaged, it's the problem. The point I was making, is that there's no point going to the trouble of putting an EJ radiator in there (not bolt in, FYI) unless you're planning on pushing 300awhp. just get a quality EA82 replacement, and you'll be golden.

it really isn't too bad. pretty confusing at first, but totally doable. I'm glad to hear it runs!

I'm not sure. water pump, coolant passages....the EJ22 is much more efficient at cooling itself. just cause it's bigger and puts out more power doesn't need it needs a bigger radiator. The motor that was in my loyale used to overheat. I pulled that motor out for the EJ22, and dropped it into a different EA82 car with a new radiator, and the overheating problem went away. BUT, that radiator that couldn't keep the EA82 cool, worked just fine with the EJ22 for about a year until it started to leak.

I 100% know that the EJ 5MTs are a different length than the EA82 5MTs. so you're driveshaft will need to be modified. I don't remember which is longer though....

an EA radiator works awesome for an EJ engine. the radiator is NOT weak point in the EA cooling system!!!! performanceradiators.com, brand new, all metal one for less than $200 shipped.

well....you won't need any performance mods. the stock EG33 puts out a lot of torque. 5MT gears don't hold up well to the EG power. but if you're careful it'll probably be OK. you could just weld up the center diff, or get a diff eliminator (expensive!!), either way the transfer gears are still probably the weak point. 6MT would be a good idea......but is big bucks (think $3k). and will require extreme modification, and wiring. I've heard the stock DCCD can hold like 800 ft/lbs of torque (keep in mind, larger tires, and the gears in the trans itself effect how that number compares to the output of the motor). that's about all I have for now. you've got your work cut out for ya. that kind of power either means big bucks and hundreds of hours of extensive modification and labor. Or lots of broken stuff, and hundreds of hours of replacing broken stuff when you'd rather be wheeling. I don't want to discourage you from this project, it has potential to be extremely bad rump roast. BUT, if you are actually using the power that the EG33 puts out, you're either going to need some pretty well-built stuff. Or you're going to be babying it, in which case, just use an EJ22. actually, if your style of offroading really needs 230 hp in a 2700lb rig. you should really have Dana 60s, 50"+ boggers and a big block.

some camber is unavoidable. just a subaru design "flaw" (if you want to call it that.). a lift and larger tires will both exaggerate the issue. And when you first install something like this, the suspension will sit pretty high. drive it around the block a few times, and it'll settle down a bit, and the camber will become less severe.

yea....a search for "roof lights" turned up this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=369242&postcount=12

That's all..... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1551210

take it off. if you're car is lifted, it's not a race car anymore anyway. a lifted swaybarless subaru is more stable than most solid-axled rigs on the street. disconnects? why? just unbolt an endlink, and it's disconnected. of course, you'll get lazy one day, and not feel like hooking it back up when you're done wheeling, and realize it handles fine without it, and then you'll take it off entirely........go ahead, ask me how I know

time for research. if you want to build an EA car. you need to know them inside and out. the answers to almost all your questions are here. most of them in the repair manual (USRM link at the top of the page). read/study/worship my EA2EJ guide, I've covered in depth much of what you're talking about here, and the 5-lug stuff has been discussed at great length. I've documented everything I've done in great detail right here. so search for posts by me for that stuff. also check out the sticky at the top of this section with a list of all the guys around who have done major swaps, and what they've done, and you can look for their stuff too. don't worry, you've yet to ask a new question.

first you have to figure out what isn't working.....if it's just the indicator light, vacuum leak, electrical problem etc. start by putting the car on ramps, and try locking/unlocking the diff and seeing if the lever on the side of the trans moves. then test for power/ground at the solenoids when engaged, then make sure all vacuum lines are hooked up.

4- and 6- cylinder XTs are completely different. and yes, it sucks because XT6s are very rare.

it's true 4WD. means no center diff. which is why you can't use it on the pavement.

i would bet these 2 are related. IIRC they have the same power source, when I had the dash apart in my '85, I crushed one of the little backlights for the HVAC system, which shorted, blew the fuse, which took out everything. also, I'd highly recommend the Rislone tranny treatment before the cocktail. seems to clean things out really nicely. in fact, I'm thinking about going back to Rislone, I'm just hesitant to drain $40 worth of tranny fluid for an experiment

finally.....life's been hectic lately. I really need to pull those off and put some washers on there, as the nuts are trying to pull through the bracket......but it's worked well, and been like that for close to 30k miles.

yes sir. you'll need the belts themselves, as well as the buckles (they are different!). and you'll probably want the trim. the trim doesn't fit perfectly, but it's pretty close. the top of the B-pillar is slightly different, so you'll have to get a little creative with things to make it all work, but it's very do-able. I actually just finished putting mine all together a couple days ago. the most noticeable difference, is the headliner. the loyale liner is spaced out away from the car to make room for the rail for the belt. so when you go to put in the trim from a GL, the headliner won't reach. EDIT: yaay!!! picture!!!! oh yea, good call on the center console. I don't have one yet, so I haven't dealt with that. you'll either have to modify the console/bracket, leave the lap-belts in there, or swap out the whole thing for a console/bracket from a manual belted car (which won't be high-rise and awesome).