Numbchux

it runs when I hooked up the harness, I hooked my switched power to the neutral switch on the ECU.....redid that, and the relays clicked on, then splice in the fuel pump wire, turned the key, and it fired right up (PCV and IAC weren't hooked up, so massive post-MAF intake leaks, so it didn't run well, or for long....but it ran). video to come. finished the radiator hoses, filled the radiator, put the exhaust on and wired in the front 02 sensor (will need a different plug for the rear.....might have something around but I didn't see anything). I'll also need to get an alternator plug, as the alternator I got with the motor doesn't match...might be off an RS. but, moved it around under it's own power. the speedometer started to freak out just from rolling around the driveway, so my "working" cluster might not be so working......crap.

I don't think there is much difference, if any. I have '85 PT4WD EA82 linkage on my '88 FT4WD D/R box. only thing is the hi/lo range rod is too short. but the rest works fine.

this is the second that I've done myself. but I've done wiring harnesses for 3 others. my first (my loyale) took me about 2 weeks, mechanically. but because of the wiring, was about 3 months before it ran. it also helps that this car has been about 10 months in the planning/parts acquiring phase. but it's been running/drivable almost that entire time.

well.....not quite done yet, but really close. the goal was running on each motor within ~10 hours. got the engine in, fuel pump swapped out, flywheel modified, hole drilled in the firewall, new radiator in, and a bunch of other little stuff, in about 9. at which point, I plugged in the EJ harness/ECU, and got no life from the relays. at which point, I didn't feel like diagnosing any further today, so I tinkered on a few other things and called it quits. but, some pictures. The harness. This is from a '96 Impreza L (the stuff that came out of the Grimmspeed project L car, for those of you on other forums.....I did the wiring on that swap.) all the wires that needed to be spliced into the EA harness had a plug between them and the ECU. so I did all that earlier this week: and put in a working gauge cluster (also happens to be from an SPFI EA82, so the redline is in the right place)... took this at about 10am today: The car was running only moments earlier. about an hour later: laid an EJ flexplate on the EA flywheel, and shot a little quick-dry primer through it to mark where the holes needed to be modified: and went to town. took me about 45 minutes to modify those holes enough that it would bolt onto the EJ22. mrose adapter plate and XT6 clutch kit bolted to the EJ22: 2.5" hole saw through the firewall for the wiring: while I had the back of the car up to do the fuel pump, I thought I'd take a picture of the freshly sandblasted/painted backing plates on the rear disc swap: Took this picture at about 5pm..... then I hooked up the intake/MAF, the fuel lines, vacuum lines, starter and battery. then I plugged in the ECU..... then I did the heater core lines, radiator, etc. tomorrow.....it runs.....hopefully. I'm betting it's something silly like a bad ground somewhere or something. but we'll see.

which side of the car is the steering wheel on in nairobi of course....even then, I believe the tts use a different engine crossmember. and the EJ crossmember will not easily fit in an EA. short answer. yes. it can be done. but you'll be looking at extra $$$ and fabrication.

my solution was a pop rivot.....but it's pretty low on the priority list....

my '92 loyale didn't..... pretty good list though. totally doable.

my loyale was a 3AT FWD, and is now FT4WD D/R 5MT. before I touch the 4wd stuff. is your car 4wd? or not...I'm assuming it is. if it is, you'll be looking at zero fabrication, entirely bolt-in. I did the pedal box with the steering column in, just unbolted from the dash and let it drop, then slid the pedal box over it and reconnected. again, bolt-in. linkage won't need any fabrication. I've got a little issue with mine being a bit too far back, but I think that has more to do with the PT4WD linkage on the FT4WD trans. the stud where the back of the linkage bolts to the driveshaft tunnel is even there. if it's 4wd, the carrier bearing mounts are in the right place. just swap on the new front driveshaft half, and you're set. the gauge cluster is a tricky one. as the center section (with all the indicator lights) is wired completely differently. while one of the plugs is identical, it's pinned differently. go ahead, plug a MT cluster into an AT car.....all kinds of crazy lights will come on I left the AT one there....but hope to switch to an RX one soon. but mechanically identical, will fit right in. also, make sure it's in Park before you pull the battery, or you won't be able to get your key out! (well, it can be fooled....ask me how I know........but I don't know if I could do it again).

I think this is relatively normal for a light car without ABS. my car RS brakes and pretty good tires still locks up the fronts when really hard on it. heck, at an autocross a few weeks ago, I locked up all 4 at about 55mph coming into a tight corner (see avatar...) but the pedal pressure giving out is not normal.....

alright, update. my birthday present to myself came today I called Ground-Control directly, and they were nice enough to give me the subaru impreza front coilovers (on the left) and NB miata rears (right). turns out this was unnecessary. as, when using the miata shocks on the subaru, you use the subaru upper mount/spring perch. the ground control upper perches don't get used. with that in mind, the only difference between the subaru kit and the miata kit is this: little ring pressed into the sleeve. this doesn't fit very snug anyway, so could easily be done without. here's the sleeve/spring on the miata shock: notice how the top of the spring sits right where the upper perch would be. this is the lowest setting they recommend using. I went with 250 lb/in front springs and 275 lb/in for the rear. I also opted for 8" long springs in the front and 7" in the rear (that's what they recommended....we'll see how the ride height works out when I put it all together). SO, these will be installed on my car next week. EDIT: just noticed a typo. the rear springs are 275, not 200.

here's what I'm talking about with that upper bracket: those 2 lines represent the angle of the wheel wheel. and you can see where that washer piece hits when flipped upside-down. now, a few minutes on a bench grinder, and that'd probably be solved......but I don't see how you could have done it accidentally.

it really is the cat's meow isn't it!

doh. same thread title....but I guess the link is different: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1564963

^haha, w00t. they're pretty much the run-of-the mill wrxs and such. some have engine swaps, pretty paint jobs.....whatever :-p

well, I'm in round 2. I don't think I have a prayer for round 3.....but vote for me anyway same link

^ custom yo just thought I'd mention I switched from EA82 to EA81 rod ends a few weeks ago. the EA82 ones were pressed into the knuckle, but further in than they were supposed to, which caused extremely premature failure (not actually breaking, but they were sloppy....and only ~8 months old). the EA81s fit perfectly in the knuckles, and leave a LOT of room for toe-in. I'm almost concerned about there being enough threads in there. But I think it'll be fine.....

yep, I currently run header, cat-pipe, and mid-pipe for the EJ car, and no axle back (no muffler). for this '86 wagon I'm swapping this weekend, I will be having an exhaust shop cut the EJ mid-pipe short, and fabbing a section up to put the EJ muffler in the stock EA location. should work well. and have a nice '01 RS tip

Doesn't throw a code for the neutral switch.....but the light is almost always on (TPS and IAC....). I say put that pretty low on your priority list.

just hook the EJ temp sender to the EA gauge. it'll read low on the gauge, but will be reliable. done and done. that sounds right for the VSS....but I don't know the details of the EA81 wiring. But the VSS should be a pulse to ground. I don't have the neutral switch for the ECU hooked up. no problems. in fact, I don't have any of the wiring for the trans hooked up (one of these days I'll hook up the back-up lights though).

pretty sure the rear EJ lines have banjo bolts like the front. so I don't think they'd work on EA subies.

I don't know where the flipping the upper brackets thing came from. but I've tried it, and the brackets did not fit upside-down.... also, the XT struts for the front give a lot of drop. I wouldn't go that low!! holy tire rub city! yes, your GL springs will fit the XT struts. if RallyX performance is what you're after. stock GR2s and RX front springs are the way to go. end of discussion. also look for some 12" long, 2.5" Diameter 250 lb/in Ground Control springs on Ebay. they fit perfect on the stock rear shocks, and yield some wonderful handling!

haha, the sensors don't work anymore. haven't on any of my EA82s.....

it could work. but it'll read cooler in the radiator than it should in the motor. and if you loose circulation through the radiator, or loose coolant, it'll be thrown off as well. you really should have it hooked up on the block.

Drove up to Ely, MN for my Birthday this weekend.....and this happened: AND, that dash said 165k on it when I did the swap, and my donor car had 235k on it when I pulled the engine. That's right 270k miles on this engine

I drove around without my hood on one day. my engine doesn't move very much. even got a video....I'll see if I can find the link for it.