Numbchux

I've done that a lot at napa. only time I buy stuff from them is if they have it in stock and nobody else does.

IMHO. do it right, or not at all. I didn't realize PK wasn't making the BYB kits anymore....

yep, been discussed. short version. all high-quality construction. BYB and SJR are definitely standup companies. AA was when I worked with them, but lift kits are not their priority anymore....so....I dunno. BYB is totally bolt-on. easiest and most complete lift kit out there. but, sacrifice some strength to do it. SJR is not entirely bolt-on (although he has a few different kits that require different levels of fabrication). But by far the strongest design. AA splits the difference.....little more complex to install than BYB, but stronger....but not as beefy as the SJR stuff. IMHO, sacrifice the blood, sweat and tears during the install so you don't wind up with severely broken stuff at the worst time down the road. Go SJR.

yep, EJ r160 (the r180 backing plates are different...) rear brakes on an EA....

I don't. but I'll probably have it all apart again to switch to the shorter shocks before too long. and I'll try to get some then.

EA81s all have one-piece shafts. and they work fine. and many people just have the length modified for the EA82 5MT, still one-piece, still just 2 u-joints, works fine. I've heard problems with them in EA82s. but having just had the u-joints in my 2-piece fail anyway, I'm going to switch to a one-piece. keep in mind, if you switch to a 2-piece. you'll have to mount a carrier bearing.

yep. you said my 7.7 @ 90 was barely enough to run drills/grinders. I've got my regulator set at 85psi. and most of the drills/grinders out there only need 4-6 at "full load". I looked when I was shopping. I was pretty much only looking at Quincys, IRs, and Craftsmans. and for the most part, a similar Quincy compressor to the one I got would have been in the $500 range.

I bet your clutch disc isn't lined up with the pilot bearing......it's pretty hard to get. cool trick with the EA82 trannies/clutches: leave the 6 pressure plate bolts just finger tight, this way the clutch disc can move around behind the pressure plate. a little grease on the input shaft so it can slide easily into the disc/pilot bearing. then put them together. then you'll find you can reach those pressure plate bolts one at a time through the starter hole. leave the trans in neutral, and put a 21mm socket/ratchet on the crank bolt, and you can spin the flywheel around and tighten them down one at a time. be sure to tighten them in opposing pattern. that is, always rotate it the same direction. tighten the first, then rotate and skip to the 3rd, then the 2nd, 3rd, 2nd, and finally the 3rd again (that's all 6). Then to be sure, go around once putting final torque on each one individually. when I did the EJ swap a couple weeks ago, we had a heck of a time getting them to line up originally. pulled it back out and did this trick, and it was much easier.

I don't know. but my point is, it's held up awesome for an average home mechanic for 20 years. I'm sure the Quincy ones are stronger/better/whatever. but most people wouldn't use it enough to justify the extra cost. hmmm....3x the durability (overkill for my uses anyway) at almost 5x the cost. I'm no math major, but that don't add up in my book. also happened to be flipping through the northern tool catalog that came today. all the grinders/sanders/drills in a price range that I would even look at are in the 4-6 CFM range. sure, there are some high end ones that use 15+ at load.....but those are almost all the $100+ ingersoll-rand stuff. and turn the page and there are some chicago pneumatic ones that put out similar numbers with 1/3 the consumption. turn the page a couple more times and there are ones with slightly less power for 1/5 the price.... the only point I'm trying to make here is that the extra money for such a beast of a compressor would probably be better used elsewhere in this case.

probably 1.5-2". had to do some grinding on the mount, probably did more than I needed, but better that then not enough. also had to drill a hole (happened to have a 7/8" hole saw handy from my ebrake cable rerouting project) in the sheet metal above it for the end of the shock rod and it's nut to poke through. and still had to use some impact technology (mini maul and air hammer worked well) to force it up there a bit.

FYI, I just happened across the manual for this compressor. date on it is 6/89.

well, guess I'll keep this updated in case someone might be interested at some point. took the girl's Kia on the road trip this last weekend, so I didn't tinker with it before the trip. but at work today I cranked the rear springs up ~3/4". definitely smoother, but I'm still hitting the stops on larger bumps. currently sitting with ~4" of fender gap, with the springs set as low as I dare, and the upper mounts flipped upside-down, and 215/45r17 tires. the ~4" shorter Miata rear shocks will definitely work fine.

just regular Rislone Engine Treatment. I've never seen anything else.

yay for searching. both options are very common, and pretty frequently discussed. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49955 http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=31&products_id=76&osCsid=o4lvufdqca1151amihknd9r2a7

I suppose.....but it blows the circuit breaker muuuuuch more frequently when it's cold. definitely working harder. yes, mine does still work like new. say what you want, but this is the best compressor it's size I've ever used. And yes, I've got a buddy with a Quincy.....which works similarly well, but probably makes twice as much noise to do it. only one outside a shop that I like better is also a craftsman......just a much bigger (and not portable) one.

I use this one with my impact and/or air hammer 3-4 days a week. year round (that entryway is not insulated). still works like new. I don't use the die grinder often...so it's not working to capacity. which is exactly what I'm saying, this is plenty to last your average home mechanic a few decades. no, it's not industrial-grade.....but pretty much top of the line consumer-grade. I've got to get a better oiler though....that cheapo POS I put on there just doesn't work.

well, contrary to GDs belief....Craftsman compressors are pretty nice. me and a couple buddies all have them, and they work great. quieter and more reliable than most consumer-grade compressors. here's the one I bought for $150 listed on craigslist about a year ago: nice and quiet. 7.7 CFM @ 90psi...so a little on the small side, but I run my impact wrench, die grinder, and air hammer on it all day. never had to wait for it to pressurize (as long as it doesn't blow the circuit breaker....but that's not the compressors fault). I have it inside the entryway of my house (no garage), and run a long hose out to the driveway, can't even hear it run out there, it's awesome. also easily fits in my wagon and can be lifted by one person, so very portable. probably a little on the weak side for painting.... The guy I bought it from had had it for ~15 years. used it for his wood shop, and the only reason he sold it, is because he bought almost the exact same one, just a little bigger. my dad has a cheap generic one that's loud and weak, you have to give it 30 seconds between lug nuts.....I think he probably paid $150 for it when it was new 15 years ago.

after putting on ~140 miles today at work.....I'm pretty sure the rough ride was because I'm riding on the Miata bump stops (and I cut ~ 1/2" off of them too....). so, I'll crank up the ride height tomorrow to solve that.....and start looking for a pair of the shorter rear shocks.

rears are in. This is a '99 Miata shock, with the ground-control 275 lb/in coilover and EA82 subaru shock mount (modified to fit upside-down to help drop the car a bit...): still rides a bit high. I think I'm going to get my hands on some Miata rear shocks (about 4" shorter), and re-flip the upper mount and crank the spring perch up a bit to drop the car some. took it around the block. these used shocks are definitely not as strong as the virtually new Monroes I took off.....little on the rough side, but not too bad. tomorrow I plan to do the fronts.

I sure will. sending pm now.

I never said ABS in general is a bad idea. ever driven an STi? mmmmmm.......that system works VERY well. but the early systems (I'm not sure about the SVX....that might have gotten a nicer setup) do not. Straight-line stopping is hindered drastically to allow you to turn. so if traffic stops quickly in front of you, you'll still be able to turn.......great, that helps. or coming towards a stop sign with lots of cross-traffic, hit a patch of ice......."great, I get to choose where I'm going die in this intersection, cause stopping isn't an option!" And the newer systems that do work so well, have a dozen sensors, all very specifically calibrated to be mounted in certain places, facing certain directions, and for that car. retrofitting it would be impossible. Oh, I also forgot to mention, when I was driving that '96 OBW in the snow. you could put the 4EAT into 1 or 2, and do pretty well. then as soon as you touched the brakes, the ABS would kick in and tell the tranny to UPshift to 3rd or 4th. this, obviously, wouldn't be an issue with your swap, but is stupid nonetheless.

alright....drove it to work today. good news: the tank was very low, and had no stumbling issues (this car was carbed.....). then I put 12 gallons in it, and drove to work. bad news: when I got there, it proceeded to puke gas out of the vent line (no carbon canister yet...). This is extremely strange, and I don't have any idea where to start with the diagnosing of this problem. all I know, is loosening the gas cap a touch relieved the pressure and got it to stop. any ideas? I looked at some of the diagrams for these vent lines in the Chiltons manual....but that really didn't help :-\ also, the alternator doesn't work.....I'm not sure if it's the wiring, or the unit itself. it's a '99 RS alt, and the first car I found in the junkyard with a matching plug was an '00 Outback (mfr'd 8/00....might have been an '01). I think the LR wire is for the voltage regulator, and needs fused 12v+, and the BY is for the light (not using...). have definite continuity between the stud and the + batt terminal. I'm stumped......

took it for a drive around the block this morning........mmmmmmmmmmm......speedy.

this one doesn't have borlas......my loyale does. the '86 just has stock header and 2 cats right now.

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