Numbchux

I LOVE the rack!!! that's awesome!

as mentioned above...no computer. and the vacuum solenoids and stuff are the same as Push-button PT4WD loyales and such, so that stuff is a bit more common. the wiring is for backup lights, low range indicator, diff lock indicator, and neutral start. obviously, none of which is necessary (I've got nothing hooked up to the RX trans in my loyale...no backup lights, oh well, I'll survive).

PICTURES!!!! yaaayyyyyyy. Took it for a drive along Skyline Parkway here in town, and got a ton of good pictures. it was hit in the rear quarter a few years ago, and the repair is starting to flake and rust. I'll have to get on this, probably in the spring. at one point, I pulled in behind an H6 outback, and saw the "H6-3.0" badge on the back. Which gave me an idea.....a few minutes in photoshop, and I think I'll be contacting Mick here very soon.

he has switched to an EJ20H ECU with the PP6. so at least he's getting some boost-friendly timing...but it's still massively inadequate.

nothing terribly extreme, weight-wise....but I've done some hauling: alright, story behind this one. I deliver pizzas (obviously), in Duluth here, we have the North Shore Scenic Railroad which takes passengers along the north shore of Lake Superior to Two Harbors. during the summer, every night from Wednesday-Saturday, they serve Domino's Pizza on the train.......and somebody has got to take them down there. usually, it's 70-80 large pizzas, and I don't have any trouble in the wagon. but the last one of the year.....124 pizzas, IIRC regular load: yea.... some shelving: and lots other that we don't have pictures of....highlight was when we burned up the 3AT. me, both parents, the dog, all of our clothes/tools/food for a weekend at the cabin. a 20' extension ladder (20' long, when collapsed, 37' when extended), 4 20' pieces of steel tube that was pulled out of our well (to be cut up and used as dock posts) on the roof. AND a trailer with a queen-sized mattress, twin mattress, twin box spring, and a few 4x8 sheets of plywood. we drove like that for an hour or so before 3rd gear went out. we ended up driving home at ~40mph in second

yep, the setup pictured above in the red car is that one you're thinking of. I'm using the exact same blower. problem is, he's greedy. always upping the boost, and using the nitrous. and he's still running a PP6 for "management"......so yea, he goes through motors. I will be staying more cautious with my boost levels, and have a fully tunable standalone ECU.

that is the one. I ended up picking up a work shift today, so didn't get any pictures. but my new camera did come, and I have the day off tomorrow, so there will be pictures tomorrow, for sure! I put in a CD deck today (came with wiring and dash kit!), and while I was in there, I found the fog light relay. it is right under the radio, behind the trip computer box. green plug. after studying the diagrams, the only thing effected by the headlight switch is the ground side of the relay's control circuit. the switch provides 12v+, and the headlight switch provides the ground. so, all I did was snip that wire (RL at the relay), and ground it into the radio harness. now I can control the fog lights independant of the headlights. they still require the key to be on to work, but the headlights don't have to be on (and they will also work with the high beams on!). they confuse the retractable headlight thing....so I may have to do some fiddling with that later, but it works fine for now. I also stopped by Advance Auto, and looked in the book. they use H3 bulbs, which are easily upgradeable (in fact, Menards sells 100w H3 bulbs for like $4 each as flashlight bulbs, I have a pair in the driving lights on my loyale). and they're definitely more than useless. my next concern is the seatbelts. is a manual seatbelt swap as easy as it was in my loyale? anyone have the parts handy?

not sure if this is going to work...as it appears that this is the first post on the new board.....or the old one, not sure which..... I just bought an '89 XT6 from XT6exy on Friday. Nice car, definitely aint no EA82! 106k miles, 4EAT, AWD, mmmmmmmmmm. my new camera is supposed to arrive tomorrow, so I should have pictures then. I've been tinkering around with it, as it's my first XT. it's got some belt squeal when it's cold. the accessory belt appears to be in good shape, and tight. so I'll have to pull it off and make sure everything spins freely. Question though. Anyone rewired the fog lights so they're not effected by the headlights? It'd be sweet to be able to run around town with the fogs and parking lights on, so it wouldn't flip up the headlights. I'm off to study the wiring diagrams.

I spin the front tires a lot when exiting corners under power on pavement (can't lock the center...). I'd definitely recommend the EJ one.

correction there is no difference at the hub-end of NA v turbo EA82 axles. EA82 axles will not work without hefty modification on an EA81 car. also, EA81t axles are still 23 spline. there's probably a way to put 25-spline DOJ cups on EA81 axles.

yes, because NASCAR is on the cutting edge of technology. look at real racing, F1, WRC, Le Mans, etc. etc. yea also, carb size/manifold design will be crucial. not to mention the fact that 2.2 heads on a 2.5 block will yield quite high compression (10.5:1, IIRC). so you'll need to be extremely accurate in your tuning, or you'll blow it to pieces. and, new headgaskets on a DOHC 2.5 fixes the problem all by itself.

mine did that, then I went to the login link on the forum page. then I could login. although, I'm still not listed on the members list, and cannot edit my profile.

just registered....

excellent let me know if you need any yota drivetrain parts. I'm parting out an '86 IFS 4Runner right now. I'm keeping the engine, tie rods and front axles for sure. pretty much anything else is up for grabs.

all EJ-series heads are interchangeable. your 2.5l heads are DOHC, the 2.2 would be SOHC. so they'll use a different intake mani, but if you're making a custom one..... the 2.2 heads will have a bit less quench volume, so higher compression on a 2.5 block...

I haven't had any luck getting mine apart. the press plates I have are too thick to get between the gearsets/bearing. and I made a pair using some 3/16s steel, and just bent those.....

you don't like all the sensors, but you're talking about wiring up the stock harness/ECU just to run the spark? you do realize that would require all the sensors anyway, right? I understand the concept that some people just prefer carbs. but you're talking about all the work, all the sensors, all the electrical stuff.....with none of the gains. or, you could try to rig some sort of standalone to run the ignition. but again, all the work, just run 4 more wires for the injectors and be done with it. or.....put 2.2 heads on it, and put a disty on it.

they do become more prone to failure. BUT, when they fail, it makes it a pretty easy side-of-the-road job. could save you big $$$ in the cost of a tow truck. just keep extra pulleys/belts in the car, and you're set.

I am...yep. I forgot the XT6 strut works with the legacy knuckle pretty easily....I suppose I'll just do that.

just bustin your chops. I think it's an awesome idea, and would be happy to help!

so, I'm in the process of buying an XT6. it's got working air suspension, and I'd like to keep it that way while it works. I would like to convert to EJ front knuckles/brakes. If I got my hands on a pair of working Legacy front air struts, would they work with the XT6 system?

alright, so I had planned to be a bit secretive about this.....but it's going to be a rather long-term project (hope to have it up and running by next summer though), so screw it.... Few weeks ago, I bought this: a v4 Link LEM ECU. mmmmmmmmm........still need a few things before it'll be fully usable, but the bulk of it is here. And after studying the manual for it, I realized it's only designed to control a 2-wire Idle-air solenoid. and subarus are 3.....so I picked up this on ebay for $10. from a '90 Audi 200. 2 wire, and doesn't mount right to the intake. shouldn't be too hard to fab a flange to bolt to the subaru intake where the old IAC was, and plumb this in there. then, this showed up...... an Eaton M62 Supercharger from a '00 Mercedes C230. only has 25k miles on it. I took the intake and exhaust manifolds off it and polished them on the wire wheel on my bench grinder. now they're all shiny . I also re-mounted the high-pressure one 90* from where it was stock so it points more towards where the subaru tb is. you can see the line that I drew on it, where I plan to cut it off, and weld a plate over the hole to only use the one output. from the back: again, line drawn where I'll cut off the low-pressure manifold. a few measurements, and it looks like a 3.5" coupler will fit perfectly over that spot. then I noticed the little chunk of heater hose left over from the new water pump on the '96 imp motor I put in the '86 wagon. I used it to put the IAC valve right off the blower: ideally, you'd want it on the low-pressure side, but any time the valve is open, the blower will be off, so it shouldn't be a problem. Also, I've got a Jaycar voltage switch, that will be calibrated to engage the blower at ~75% throttle. plan is, to get my hands on a dual-port phase I EJ22e. partial rebuild (rings if necessary. but certainly headgaskets, all seals, timing belt, pumps, etc.). Leave it at stock N/A compression Delta Cams, possibly head work phenolic intake mani spacers t-leg intake manifold and injectors possibly parallel fuel rails keep my existing exhaust (mmmmmmmmmm) use this AWIC, plumbed between the blower and TB. should keep piping down (click image for more specs): another voltage switch controlled by an intake air temp sensor to control the water pump for said AWIC stock pulleys should yield 4-5 psi I'm also planning on mounting 3 LEDs on the dash. one for the supercharger clutch, one for the AWIC pump, and the third for the radiator fan. mounting system originally planned to be something like this: but then a different setup just appeared on rs25. so things might get switched around before then. also, there will be paint involved on the new engine. still trying to think of a color scheme.....

just ran downstairs and checked....I definitely have that bearing, there seems to be a bit of play in it, but it spins real smooth, and it didn't make noise when pulled.... AND, the 5th synchro and driven gear are already pulled off the main shaft. I'll press the bearing off tomorrow and take a closer look. to make sure we're on the right page....this one, yes?

I fell left out.....both my subies are 5-lug