Numbchux

I daily drove both my 4" lifted EA82s. both had ~28" tall tires on them. only complaint is the power (plenty to get in trouble off-road, but frustrating on the street). EA82s are slow in stock form, then throw some big, meaty tires on there, and you've got nothing.

there's been some speculation about the r180. since the STi already uses an r180. you could swap that into the back of your forester. in STi trim, it already has a pretty beefy LSD in it (stronger than any factory r160 LSD). BUT, nissan trucks used an r180 in the front. and I remember hearing some thoughts about getting a locker for the nissan, and putting it in the subaru diff. on paper, it would work. in practice........well, I don't think it's ever been done. some research, and $$$....who knows. or...weld 'er up. but, in short. no, there is no locking option for an r160 other than welding it up. or....put a solid axle in 'er

from what I remember (don't have anything in front of me, but have worked on many of both harnesses), the EG33 and EJ TCU plugs are the same. so swapping between those TCUs would be easy. if not, getting my hands on the plugs will be quite easy, so 3 sets of plugs would also be doable although, if the rpm signal is just the one byte. it might not matter! and yes, I've been reading up on things, since the shift points themselves are determined based on TPS signal, and speed, for the most part, it wouldn't matter. except when you do romp on it a bit, it'll think it's hit redline a third earlier. I also want to dig through some FSMs, and compare gear ratios, otherwise when the TCU compares the speed to what gear it should be in, things will work out. (my buddy had that problem when he put a jdm wrx 4EAT in his impreza LX. it worked fine, except the gear ratios were all off, and then when he put the jdm TCU in there, it was expecting a 7k redline, but the ECU would only allow 6200.) yea, it's a plan....I'll try to document things as best I can. might even contribute on the alcyone boards, even though most of that is over my head. Perfect logic, only problem is, that rpm signal. the TCU (as mentioned above) uses rpm for a couple things, and if the TCU is looking for the rpm signal from a 4-cyl, but getting it from a 6, it'll be thrown off. ever seen an EG33 swap hooked up to the stock tach? it'll bury long before it actually hits redline. but again, if that's just one byte that needs to be changed to adjust how it calculates the rpm, than that's easy.

I know an EA bellhousing can be put an on EJ 4EAT (Gloyale did it). but I'm mostly concerned about the 4-cyl TCU + 6-cyl relationship. I've been hunting around on subaruxt.com and subaru-svx. as well as that alcyones site that presslabs linked to (HO-LY-CRAP!!!!). I think what I'm going to do, is wire EJ TCU plugs (I've got at least 2 sets at my house from harnesses I've stripped). in the XT6 in addition to the existing plugs. This way I can try a few different TCUs and see which matches the shift points of the XT6 best. And, if I find one that works well, then I can start modifying code, plug it in, drive it around the block, and if it doesn't work well, plug the ER27 TCU in there, and drive it to work. I've been incredibly inspired by this project!! thanks presslabs

yep, I've seen pictures of that build on another offroad forum (don't remember where though....). it's running the complete toyota drivetrain. 22re engine, tranny, tcase, and axles.

ok, so the circlip failed, not the snapring. did you get the 6 balls? if not, you're SOL and will be buying a new axle. if you did, I'm sure it's re-usable.

you've seen a legacy 4EAT run with an ER27? Which TCU? I know GLoyale did it in his EA82, but again, 4-cyl rpm signal.

21.5lbs each for an alloy?!?! good lord. my rotas are considered a rather heavy wheel. and are like 18 lbs. and are 17s!

boy, I know so little about Autos....I think I'm in over my head will have to do some research. and pull a bunch of parts off that SVX (duty C and stuff....since the TC is shot anyway). maybe this summer the XT6 will get paddle shifters....

regardless of where he's working on it. there's nothing broke there that is junkyard parts. if you don't want to do it where it is, alright, that's fine. but don't put a used ball joint in there if you don't want this to happen again. they're not expensive. and the axle is probably salvageable, but like I said, it's impossible to tell from those pictures.

those better have been steel pugs! that would be scary heavy for an alloy.

I love black wheels.....so yea....another vote for black.

my last try....don't need to salvage anything.

problem is...this thing isn't rolling on or off a flatbed. truth is, you'd probably be best off just sticking the end of the shaft in the cup to keep it from flopping around, and installing a ball joint right where it sits. then you'll at least be able to drive it to where you can get the axle squared away.

he sold it. trying to be more financially stable. although he's daily driving an impreza these days.

it's going to be easy to fix. seriously. but it is going to be extremely difficult to move (it won't roll, and it won't track right being towed from the front 2 wheels...). it depends on what came apart in the axle joint, as the end of the shaft is not visible in the pics. if the snapring broke/popped off the end of the shaft, and the races, retainer, and balls are all in the boot, no problems. if the circlip popped out of the cup (what happened to my '85), then you'll need to make a substantial effort to find these parts. as for fixing it. you'll need a ball joint (might be a good idea to replace the other....) for sure. and either a CV boot kit (get the kit with clamps, grease, circlip and snapring) or an axle. the ball joint and boot are easy, just stop in at your parts chain of choice, and buy them (might have to order....). the axle would be available there, but will cost quite a bit, and will be remanufactured, so will be poorly made. if you need a whole new shaft, your best bet is putting a post in the wanted section here. if you don't have a repair manual, might want to get one of those too, even a haynes will be adequate for this project.

+2....having had this happen on my '85.....ball joint failure, which hyperextended the inner axle joint. the axle might be rebuildable (although yours pulled apart more than mine did).

so, I've been thinking about doing this for the last few days, and a problem occurred to me....My XT6 (being a 6-cyl) will have a different rpm signal calibration. so the legacy TCU would not work properly. any chance this would work with an SVX TCU? I know an SVX TCU can control a legacy 4EAT....and I happen to know someone parting out an SVX....so getting my hands on the TCU and plugs would be quite easy.

lots of stuff about this already on here. check out the sticky at the top of the page with a list of who's done what kind of swap. You can star there, search around for posts by those of us who've done it, and you'll find a TON of information about what we like, what we do with them, and what we'd do different. FYI, your loyale is an EA82. it's pretty hard to beat an EJ22-swapped EA82. great mileage (the part-time 4WD '86 that I did this summer got 30-32mpg without too much difficulty), good power, extremely reliable, etc. etc. etc. Even just for a daily driver! then, you get into the performance aspects. if you want to start getting into track events (whatever it be, ice racing, Rallycross, Autocross....whatever), you might want to start looking at suspension/brake upgrades, WRX 2.0l turbos (jdm or usdm), 6-cylinders, transmissions, etc. etc. etc. again, a ton of options and info out there. It's really up to you to decide what you want out of the car, how much you want to spend (time and $$), and how much fabrication you're willing to do to get there. as for the wiring. in my experience, I've seen a lot of smart people, who understand the concept behind wiring diagrams, stare at them blankly for hours. it really seems that this kind of stuff is one of those things where you got it, or you don't. those of us who can do it, do pretty well at it, and some people just can't make it work. it is a hurdle, but not a big one. as s'ko has mentioned, there are a number of us (I can think of 6 of us who've done multiple harnesses before and have offered to do it for others, including him and I) who can and probably will do it for you for a relatively small price. and like I've told people emailing me through my website. not everybody can start with an entire harness, and wind up with something that will work, but anybody can hook up the 6-8 wires needed to make one of my harnesses work just like it came from the factory.

yep, I know. and in this situation it doesn't really make any difference. but for future reference.....a little clarification.

just for clarification.....they're not all the same ('85-'86 had DOJs on the outside, others had CVs, and there may be shaft diameter changes). BUT, they are completely interchangeable. length, and spline count on both ends are the same.

+2 to illustrate the description. this is on my loyale, before I had the solenoids wired up. stock: bypassed: to the OP. hearing the click up by the firewall, sounds like the solenoids are working. there's a vacuum hose that goes from the 2 solenoids (located behind the driver's side strut tower, near the windshield wiper motor). across the firewall, and should be hooked to a vacuum source on the engine. I suspect this has come loose. does the HVAC control work? i.e. no matter what button pressed, the heat comes out the center vents, not defrost or heat. these are vacuum operated as well, and will be "T"d into the same source over on the passenger side.

yea. I ran one electric on all my EA82s (2 of them lifted). wired to a switch. never overheated due to insufficient airflow (yea, had a hose blow on the freeway, and occasionally would forget to flip the switch while wheeling...). in fact, in the winter, I could just leave the heat on full blast, and it would stay plenty cool (rad was luke warm to the touch). And as long as I was moving more than ~20mph or more, that was enough air to keep it cool. this is all true of my EJ22 loyale as well. All using stock EA82 radiators, and the loyale is the only one with a new rad. it helps that it doesn't get too hot up here, and Duluth isn't a large enough town that I have to worry about traffic....at all. only exception was my buddy's '86 EA82 (now EJ-swapped, and dhise's). but, we knew that rad was crap, we knew the motor was crap. it didn't have A/C, so it didn't have a clutch fan on it, just wiring the electric fan to be on all the time pretty much fixed the problem. the reasons to dump it? you won't gain much mileage, or power. but it makes the car easier to work on (that 14 minute timing belt never would have happened if the fan had been there!). and, I think they warm up a bit quicker in the winter, as there isn't moving air in the engine bay, but that might just be in my head. in any case, it's entirely unneeded complexity.

both! some awe-inspiring fabrication going on in that picture! definitely going to have to make Castana now too bad morgan doesn't have a wheeling rig anymore.

all my EA82s have had the thermo switch as well.