Numbchux

all my EA82s have had the thermo switch as well.

yea, it was nice. but I ran into problems....4th low was not an option, as the 2 shifters hit each other. might have to do with the slop in the shifter and I'm using an '85 "banana" 4WD shifter.

the center diff lock doesn't need constant pressure to say locked (or, mine doesn't at least....might not be normal operation). when I first put my RX trans in, I didn't have the rear end done, or the vacuum solenoids hooked up. I crawled under there, and shoved the lever in to the lock position, and ran FWD like that for months, without any vacuum lines hooked up.

I keep drooling at this: :slobber::slobber::slobber: wow!

most definitely! come summer, you may want to put a second fan on there. but at least for the next 6-8 months, you won't notice any difference other than a touch more power and more mileage.

wow! some absolutely awesome fabrication there!! and those 35s look right at home!

sounds exactly like when the u-joints on my loyale steering shaft was binding. although it would do it both ways. how are your tie rod boots?

the FT4WD pinion gear is unique. and the pinion must match the center diff....you could put a 3.9 pinion from an EJ car with it's center diff on the back of a FT4WD trans, but then you'd loose the locker. and the 1-5 gears would be different....defeating the point. in fact, if I'm not mistaken. the PT4WD driven shaft and pinion shaft are one piece. not a shaft-in-shaft like FT4WD/AWD. so I don't think you can even separate it.

from what we've been able to tell, and talking to wounded brat (guy in WI that came and picked up the topper, he lifted the front of his brat this way), there isn't a need for the offset. it appears, that the way the geometry is set up, the camber would be pretty accurately maintained by doing it that way.

who made the sweet machined strut extensions? a buddy of mine is lifting his brat...strut extensions is all he needs. and we really want to do something like that, instead of blocks on the top.

I haven't found anything specific.... once I get my hands on a rear diff hanger, I'll be taking some measurements and comparing to EJ stuff for that and shift linkage. EJ cars use a similar design for the bushings....just have to confirm the size.

FYI, the RX hi/lo shifter rod is longer. a PT4WD one will work fine, but the shifter will be angled up at a pretty steep angle. I cut mine in half, cut threads into it, and put ~1" of threaded rod in the middle...and now it's back to "normal" as mentioned, driveshaft is identical. you'll need to wire up the diff lock solenoids, but that's not difficult.

yep, we (MNSubaru.com) do 2 every season. lodging for the first event is full (january 15-18), and a date has not yet been set for the second. pretty far from you, it's only about 45 minutes from canada. I think MNAudi puts on similar/smaller/more formal (helmets, course workers, penalties, etc.) events near the Twin Cities later in the season.

my 275k mile EJ22 in my loyale really doesn't like it. even with the red top, it just won't fire up below unless it's had the block heater on. And even then, I let it idle for about 25 minutes this morning (heat off, rad fan off)....and it still barely moved the temp gauge. the XT6 fires up pretty easily, this morning (14 below) it cranked pretty slow at first, but still no trouble. and it warms up quick too!

go ahead and put the idea of putting WRX suspension in the back of a brat out of your mind. would be an insane amount of fabrication to get it to work right.....and if you can do that, move to the UK and get a job at ProDrive!! in all seriousness. a wrx rear diff is an R160, just like a gen 1 brat rear diff. all you have to do is put the wrx inner DOJ cups on the brat shafts (will probably take an adapter race...but very doable!).

all of the above. turbo, uppipe, and downpipe, all take up space currently occupied by brake booster, shift linkage, and clutch master (if applicable). with some substantial modification, you could relocate the second turbo to be more friendly....but, as mentioned, the amount of work shows very little gains. it's a ton of fabrication for an overly complicated motor with comparable power numbers to single turbo motors of similar generation. now, if you've got yourself a RHD postal legacy.....go for it. in any other situation....don't. the extra bucks to purchase an EJ20G verses an H is worth it.

the bottom of the pan definitely hangs down lower than the bottom of the EA82 pan. but IIRC there's a bit more clearance between the pan and the crossmember.....

it's actually quite easy, once you understand the traction circle, and weight transfer. also, FYI, when in 4WD (center locked), it doesn't matter where the handbrake is, when you pull it, it'll lock up all 4. which really doesn't help you. I've been running rear handbrake for a couple years now (you'll notice, the third link posted above was written by me....that's my wagon). I've never used the handbrake to induce a slide.....and a little searching will yield dozens of pictures/videos of my cars in large controlled slide. put it in FWD, and find some open space where you can't hit anything. learn to get a FWD, front handbrake vehicle to slide, and you'll be a better driver for it. that's how I learned it!

I will probably take you up on that offer eventually. but no way am I delving into anything this serious until the loyale has it's new motor and the 4runner is back on the road (so not until summer sometime, most likely). I think you've hit the nail on the head with what you've done. full auto shifting, as well as full manual (I'm assuming when you're using the paddles, it doesn't downshift on it's own like it does with the stock selecters). and the DCCD knob is genious!! did you make the DCCD knob, or use an STi one? replacing/upgrading the transfer clutches will probably happen next summer, regardless. as there's quite a bit of slip right now.

yep, if it's a lifted rig, you got no business driving it hard anyway. I disconnected one front link on my first lifted wagon thinking it would be a temporary thing. it never got reconnected. and shortly after that, it was removed entirely.

Ho-Ly Crap I'm officially beyond impressed. I would absolutely LOVE to do this on my XT6. but I definitely wouldn't have a clue on where to start in the reprogramming of the TCU. could it be set up to have a switch/button for a full-auto mode?

I know the DOHCs don't have it. and was just looking at a phase 2 EJ22 today, and noticed it doesn't have it. here's a picture of an EJ22 with the cap on it. it's the funny cap held on by 2 bolts on the back of the head on the right side of the pic. I highly doubt an EJ25 has it...but it's possible.

possibly for a rear shaft?

well, it snowed immediately after I mounted the snow tires.....so the car is filthy now. but:

yea, you might notice that the threads on the studs on the water pump pulley aren't cut deep enough (common on el cheapo reman'd units). so you might need washers to keep pressure on the pulley. the cardboard might help, but the fan will still circulate a lot of air through the engine bay, even if not pulling it through the radiator. it might not help the car warm up much faster, but it'll definitely run more efficient (power AND mileage!)