Numbchux

yikes. the motor is pointed the wrong way, so you'd have to either rotate the justy motor to put a tcase in the middle. then the trans.....any way to lock it up so it just sends power to the tcase? probably wouldn't hold up very well. front axles aren't symmetrical, so you'd have to either mount the diff off to one side, or get new axles. I'd say put a real subaru drivetrain under it. no, scratch that, get a real subaru and do it.

all 5MT front diff carriers are the same. so an aftermarket front LSD for an EJ 5MT would fit in an EA one...... but, it'd cost more than your car, and you have to split the tranny case to install it. and most are helical, which would be worthless offroad.

depending where you are in the country, rust might be an issue. and not just cosmetic rust, get down on the ground and make sure it's structurally sound. the oil leak isn't really anything to worry about, pretty hard to keep an EA82 from leaking. usually the valve covers are the first place to leak, but unless meticulously maintained, they'll seep a bit from everywhere. that's about all I can think of for now...

EA82 and EJ strut tops are interchangeable. I have legacy struts/tops on my EA82. but, as mentioned. struts have to match the knuckles.

essentially, yes. AFAIK, OBS springs are a tad taller than stock impreza ones. but lower spring rate than legacy ones.

yea, the carbed ones will, but not terribly well. if you go that route, don't get a stock carb. I had an '85 with a feedback carb, blew the fuse for the ECU (and didn't figure it out for a couple days....). it still ran, but extremely rich, had no power at all.

yea, you could. I wouldn't put it too far away from the tank though.... MorganM relocated it where the rear seat was. I had that wagon for awhile, and still know the guy who has it, it's quite loud and obnoxious. but it's safe. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19948

I'm not far away in Duluth, MN

as mentioned, allows you to put it into neutral without the key (or more importantly, without a battery!).

negative. just did an OBD II ('96 impreza Lx to be exact) EJ22 swap. no fuel tank sensor or anything. all the sensors I needed were either on the engine, or the 2 on the passenger strut tower. I get more CEL codes from my OBD I swapped car than the OBD II. also, the OBD II one definitely has more power, gets better mileage, AND was simpler to route the wires. 1997 was the first year for interference SOHC motors.....so IMHO, 1996 is the best option.

very cool! first thing I noticed was the FOUR power window switches in the center console.......now I see why

you're crazy.....totally unneeded

I think I may have found a clue........... posted in an EJ swap thread.............

I need to do the same. JCwhitney sells numerous styles of generic weatherstripping by the foot. I'm sure there's something there that could work.

more details on said subaru..... I ran 225/55r16s mounted on WRX wheels on my loyale, but they rubbed a bit on the rear trailing arms. also, mathematically, both options are just shy of 26" tall.

um.....would the XT have 25 spline DOJs? cause I know the loyale will have 23s.

well, I think the EA 4EAT is a different length than the EJ one.... did you start with an EA shaft? or an EJ one.

well, think EJ swap, except you won't need an adapter plate, and the radiator will need a new home. also, you'll need to find something to do with that extra engine mount. IMHO, don't bother. same work for similar power as an EJ. but a less reliable motor, that needs more expensive parts, with less aftermarket support.....and heavier. depending on the cost of the donor motor/car, the cost of the swap would be similar. if you're going to hack up the front of the car to put in an H6, it had better be an EG33.

AH, you had an EJ shaft modified to use in your EA car. hmmm.....interesting. AFAIK, the swaps I've heard of used EA shafts modified (I want to say lengthened....) to work with the different trans length. definitely interesting. might also mean that a 6MT would work perfectly with a 5MT EJ shaft in an EA car (have to use the shorter AT shaft in an EJ car....), hmmm, the gears turn.....

problem is, the carrier bearing bracket is a rather substantially different. I don't think the EJ bracket would bolt up to the EA car. I have wondered if you could swap the bracket/bearing. as the flange has a nut on it, and I bet you could press the bracket off once that's removed.

I just posted a picture/video thread of my car at an AutoX this last weekend. but I also wanted to show those of you who are thinking of building up your own EA-series car what they're capable of. The guy who wrote this is an instructor with the Northstar BMW club, which regularly puts on major events at Brainerd International Raceway. He also won the last AutoX I was at in an STi (Windom event, also pics and vids of that in the Rally/Racing section). "So I'll start with my favorite, its Black, its looks like it enjoys playing in the mud, and climbs hills and sounds a lot like Big Foot from the Monster Truck derby. I guess my mentallity when testing out a car is simple, find the most speed while maximizing the most traction. And in the case of Chux's Wagon, let’s just say it was a lot of fun trying to accomplish that goal. First thing you'll notice about this car is its ride height; she sits much higher than most Subaru's I'm familiar with. She's got some nice long legs on her, she's not much to look at, but she's got experience. The old girl really knows how to work the Subaru AWD system, going thru the fast sweeping corners you can literally feel all four just clawing around constantly searching for traction. She didn't complain much diving into the fast chachains, rotated quite well even with the body roll as if she just tiptoed around the tight corners. The understeer is noticeable; but with the right amount of braking you can easily get her to rotate just fine, just have to be a little patient and wait for it. The power from the NA boxer engine felt like a great combination for this setup as the suspension felt soft which I think this car is intended for offroad ventures. So I am surprised how well she did on our little tight course. I felt comfortable using the brake on this car, but than again I don't usually use the brakes very often. LOL Okay I kid, but I think this car was one who had the least issues with wheel hoping while braking when transitioning coming into the fast chachain where there was uneven pavement from two different compounds. Something’s worth mentions, perhaps stiffening the shift with some bushings to help the driver quickly figure out the gears, a little more brake bite would make it even more fun coming into the corners and simple 4 point harness to help keep the driver in place. Overall I think it’s a fun car to drive around no matter where you take it just the way it is. Did I mention I really like rumpping on the throttle, the exhaust nodes is what really reminded me of the Monster Trucks. Many Thanks, -Cheech"

we had a pretty sweet AutoX event here in MN last weekend. about 10 of us rented out a police training course for the day, and went at it. no timing equipment, but there were a few guys who are instructors with the Northstar BMW club. VERY good drivers. I put about 60 miles on my car, just on the track. and a couple of the other guys put on closer to 100. pictures: video....

no plan yet. this is a very long term project, and while it will probably see the street before too long, it'll be awhile before it gets wheeled hard enough to need limiting straps.

generally speaking, a larger front bar than the rear induced understeer....so yea, if there's not one in the rear, removing the front will even things out. it also makes it muuuuuch easier to swing the weight around. removing sway bars is always preferable for low-traction environments (RallyX, ice, etc.).

he's reclocked one notch, with the torsion bar mounted stock. which puts it a bit over 4" (of course, it's an ongoing project, we haven't gotten the front done yet, so that may settle once he starts driving it). these shocks will be about perfect, as they bottom out just as the stock tire touches the stock fender. but there will be some definite limiting straps involved to keep from blowing up axles, as they offer a ton of droop travel! here it is: also, I just realized, that post was made before we actually installed them. they're now in. perfect fit. the bracket that came on the shocks could have been made to work, but a few minutes using a bench vise as a mini-press, we put the subaru upper bracket in the bushing on these shocks, which made them completely bolt-on. also, the Rough Country ones we used came with steel sleeves for the lower mount, which made for a snug fit on the subaru bolt.