Numbchux

it's going to be easy to fix. seriously. but it is going to be extremely difficult to move (it won't roll, and it won't track right being towed from the front 2 wheels...). it depends on what came apart in the axle joint, as the end of the shaft is not visible in the pics. if the snapring broke/popped off the end of the shaft, and the races, retainer, and balls are all in the boot, no problems. if the circlip popped out of the cup (what happened to my '85), then you'll need to make a substantial effort to find these parts. as for fixing it. you'll need a ball joint (might be a good idea to replace the other....) for sure. and either a CV boot kit (get the kit with clamps, grease, circlip and snapring) or an axle. the ball joint and boot are easy, just stop in at your parts chain of choice, and buy them (might have to order....). the axle would be available there, but will cost quite a bit, and will be remanufactured, so will be poorly made. if you need a whole new shaft, your best bet is putting a post in the wanted section here. if you don't have a repair manual, might want to get one of those too, even a haynes will be adequate for this project.

+2....having had this happen on my '85.....ball joint failure, which hyperextended the inner axle joint. the axle might be rebuildable (although yours pulled apart more than mine did).

so, I've been thinking about doing this for the last few days, and a problem occurred to me....My XT6 (being a 6-cyl) will have a different rpm signal calibration. so the legacy TCU would not work properly. any chance this would work with an SVX TCU? I know an SVX TCU can control a legacy 4EAT....and I happen to know someone parting out an SVX....so getting my hands on the TCU and plugs would be quite easy.

lots of stuff about this already on here. check out the sticky at the top of the page with a list of who's done what kind of swap. You can star there, search around for posts by those of us who've done it, and you'll find a TON of information about what we like, what we do with them, and what we'd do different. FYI, your loyale is an EA82. it's pretty hard to beat an EJ22-swapped EA82. great mileage (the part-time 4WD '86 that I did this summer got 30-32mpg without too much difficulty), good power, extremely reliable, etc. etc. etc. Even just for a daily driver! then, you get into the performance aspects. if you want to start getting into track events (whatever it be, ice racing, Rallycross, Autocross....whatever), you might want to start looking at suspension/brake upgrades, WRX 2.0l turbos (jdm or usdm), 6-cylinders, transmissions, etc. etc. etc. again, a ton of options and info out there. It's really up to you to decide what you want out of the car, how much you want to spend (time and $$), and how much fabrication you're willing to do to get there. as for the wiring. in my experience, I've seen a lot of smart people, who understand the concept behind wiring diagrams, stare at them blankly for hours. it really seems that this kind of stuff is one of those things where you got it, or you don't. those of us who can do it, do pretty well at it, and some people just can't make it work. it is a hurdle, but not a big one. as s'ko has mentioned, there are a number of us (I can think of 6 of us who've done multiple harnesses before and have offered to do it for others, including him and I) who can and probably will do it for you for a relatively small price. and like I've told people emailing me through my website. not everybody can start with an entire harness, and wind up with something that will work, but anybody can hook up the 6-8 wires needed to make one of my harnesses work just like it came from the factory.

yep, I know. and in this situation it doesn't really make any difference. but for future reference.....a little clarification.

just for clarification.....they're not all the same ('85-'86 had DOJs on the outside, others had CVs, and there may be shaft diameter changes). BUT, they are completely interchangeable. length, and spline count on both ends are the same.

+2 to illustrate the description. this is on my loyale, before I had the solenoids wired up. stock: bypassed: to the OP. hearing the click up by the firewall, sounds like the solenoids are working. there's a vacuum hose that goes from the 2 solenoids (located behind the driver's side strut tower, near the windshield wiper motor). across the firewall, and should be hooked to a vacuum source on the engine. I suspect this has come loose. does the HVAC control work? i.e. no matter what button pressed, the heat comes out the center vents, not defrost or heat. these are vacuum operated as well, and will be "T"d into the same source over on the passenger side.

yea. I ran one electric on all my EA82s (2 of them lifted). wired to a switch. never overheated due to insufficient airflow (yea, had a hose blow on the freeway, and occasionally would forget to flip the switch while wheeling...). in fact, in the winter, I could just leave the heat on full blast, and it would stay plenty cool (rad was luke warm to the touch). And as long as I was moving more than ~20mph or more, that was enough air to keep it cool. this is all true of my EJ22 loyale as well. All using stock EA82 radiators, and the loyale is the only one with a new rad. it helps that it doesn't get too hot up here, and Duluth isn't a large enough town that I have to worry about traffic....at all. only exception was my buddy's '86 EA82 (now EJ-swapped, and dhise's). but, we knew that rad was crap, we knew the motor was crap. it didn't have A/C, so it didn't have a clutch fan on it, just wiring the electric fan to be on all the time pretty much fixed the problem. the reasons to dump it? you won't gain much mileage, or power. but it makes the car easier to work on (that 14 minute timing belt never would have happened if the fan had been there!). and, I think they warm up a bit quicker in the winter, as there isn't moving air in the engine bay, but that might just be in my head. in any case, it's entirely unneeded complexity.

both! some awe-inspiring fabrication going on in that picture! definitely going to have to make Castana now too bad morgan doesn't have a wheeling rig anymore.

all my EA82s have had the thermo switch as well.

yea, it was nice. but I ran into problems....4th low was not an option, as the 2 shifters hit each other. might have to do with the slop in the shifter and I'm using an '85 "banana" 4WD shifter.

the center diff lock doesn't need constant pressure to say locked (or, mine doesn't at least....might not be normal operation). when I first put my RX trans in, I didn't have the rear end done, or the vacuum solenoids hooked up. I crawled under there, and shoved the lever in to the lock position, and ran FWD like that for months, without any vacuum lines hooked up.

I keep drooling at this: :slobber::slobber::slobber: wow!

most definitely! come summer, you may want to put a second fan on there. but at least for the next 6-8 months, you won't notice any difference other than a touch more power and more mileage.

wow! some absolutely awesome fabrication there!! and those 35s look right at home!

sounds exactly like when the u-joints on my loyale steering shaft was binding. although it would do it both ways. how are your tie rod boots?

the FT4WD pinion gear is unique. and the pinion must match the center diff....you could put a 3.9 pinion from an EJ car with it's center diff on the back of a FT4WD trans, but then you'd loose the locker. and the 1-5 gears would be different....defeating the point. in fact, if I'm not mistaken. the PT4WD driven shaft and pinion shaft are one piece. not a shaft-in-shaft like FT4WD/AWD. so I don't think you can even separate it.

from what we've been able to tell, and talking to wounded brat (guy in WI that came and picked up the topper, he lifted the front of his brat this way), there isn't a need for the offset. it appears, that the way the geometry is set up, the camber would be pretty accurately maintained by doing it that way.

who made the sweet machined strut extensions? a buddy of mine is lifting his brat...strut extensions is all he needs. and we really want to do something like that, instead of blocks on the top.

I haven't found anything specific.... once I get my hands on a rear diff hanger, I'll be taking some measurements and comparing to EJ stuff for that and shift linkage. EJ cars use a similar design for the bushings....just have to confirm the size.

FYI, the RX hi/lo shifter rod is longer. a PT4WD one will work fine, but the shifter will be angled up at a pretty steep angle. I cut mine in half, cut threads into it, and put ~1" of threaded rod in the middle...and now it's back to "normal" as mentioned, driveshaft is identical. you'll need to wire up the diff lock solenoids, but that's not difficult.

yep, we (MNSubaru.com) do 2 every season. lodging for the first event is full (january 15-18), and a date has not yet been set for the second. pretty far from you, it's only about 45 minutes from canada. I think MNAudi puts on similar/smaller/more formal (helmets, course workers, penalties, etc.) events near the Twin Cities later in the season.

my 275k mile EJ22 in my loyale really doesn't like it. even with the red top, it just won't fire up below unless it's had the block heater on. And even then, I let it idle for about 25 minutes this morning (heat off, rad fan off)....and it still barely moved the temp gauge. the XT6 fires up pretty easily, this morning (14 below) it cranked pretty slow at first, but still no trouble. and it warms up quick too!

go ahead and put the idea of putting WRX suspension in the back of a brat out of your mind. would be an insane amount of fabrication to get it to work right.....and if you can do that, move to the UK and get a job at ProDrive!! in all seriousness. a wrx rear diff is an R160, just like a gen 1 brat rear diff. all you have to do is put the wrx inner DOJ cups on the brat shafts (will probably take an adapter race...but very doable!).

all of the above. turbo, uppipe, and downpipe, all take up space currently occupied by brake booster, shift linkage, and clutch master (if applicable). with some substantial modification, you could relocate the second turbo to be more friendly....but, as mentioned, the amount of work shows very little gains. it's a ton of fabrication for an overly complicated motor with comparable power numbers to single turbo motors of similar generation. now, if you've got yourself a RHD postal legacy.....go for it. in any other situation....don't. the extra bucks to purchase an EJ20G verses an H is worth it.