Numbchux

only difference between 22t and 22e heads are the holes in the passenger side head for the oil and coolant lines for the turbo. actually, the single-port exhaust, solid-liftered 2.2 heads flow better than the older ones.

I'm not exactly sure what all you're asking, but... look what I found cleverly hidden in the USRM: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84798 has many answers. hi-range is 1:1

^couple corrections. but you got the point. yea, XT6 control arms won't work on EA81s. but also, if you go to 5-lug knuckles, you have to use the axles, which are longer than the EA81 axles. so custom axles would be needed. if you use XT6 knuckles/brakes. parking brake isn't an issue. although, IMHO that'd be pretty dumb. if you're going to the work, do it right and use EJ brakes! AFAIK, the EA81 top hats will work on EJ/XT6 struts. also, 6-lug wheels tend to have less backspacing. which works out better for offroad tires.

EA82s are the same 4-lug pattern as your EA81. 5-lug is a lot of work and money (and headache....rare parts, and custom ones for EA81s) just for wheels. you'd be way better off going 6-lug. either modify the hubs yourself, or have a shop do it (SJR will do it for a pretty reasonable price.....or at least he did the last time I looked). or keep an eye out here for pugs. they're a direct bolt-on in 14 and 15".

well, no real mileage on it, but my dad just put OB suspension on his '94..... from my experiences with EA stuff. the highway miles are harder on the joints than anything. I would still suspect the quality of the joints. I don't trust reman'd CVs, regardless of who made them. my mom's old legacy had a NAPA reman'd fail after about 8k miles at stock angle. not to mention the time I had one break less than 24hours after purchase. look for low mileage cars in the junkyard and pull them, reboot them, and see if that works better for ya. in other news. great to hear from ya! I was just putting the gauge cluster I bought from you 4+ years ago into another car last week, and wondered what you might be up to.

my '92 legacy tophats fit fine on my loyale.... also, with EJ front suspension, you get better brake and suspension options. although you loose the front parking brake (you can convert to the rear. I have a write-up in the USRM about using Nissan rear calipers).

... which, FYI. imprezas didn't get a 2.5 until '98.

yea, and an EJ motor. yea, taking advantage of an EA car is awesome, as long as you have EJ power. a non-turbo EA? compete? hahahaha. a built EA81 could be done, but even then.... a FWD impreza is definitely the ticket.

and those would be? subaru EJ ECUs are very smart and adaptive. ESPECIALLY the OBD II ones. I know a guy who put 8 psi of boost through an otherwise stock OBD II EJ22e. ran awesome, although at 8psi he was maxing out the injectors. so he threw some tleg injectors and a rising rate fpr on there and has been running 10-12. 3 years later, it's still running awesome, just burns a little oil (huh....12 psi on a high-compression motor that already had 200k on it is hard on the rings?)

so....as it turns out....the MAP sensor works fine, as long as it's plugged in yea, went to replace it, and realized the plug was in the right place, but not plugged in all the way. plugged it in, and it stopped throwing that code. now I'm getting 02 sensor heater circuit (still no rear sensor...). AT diagnostic circuit (this one confuses me a bit...as the donor car wasn't even an AT.....so some research is in order). knock sensor 1 circuit and EGR (not sure what the cause of these 2 could be, I'll check wiring first....but I don't really know). also, got gas yesterday. and it got about 3mpg better than my loyale does in similar driving (delivering in town...all under 40 mph....loyale gets 17 and this GL got about 20. the loyale gets 26-27 on the highway...so this car should do quite well). um..not much else to report. fixed the speedo, fixed the radio wiring (PO did a crappy job of putting the stock unit back in), re-wired the oil light so it actually works (there is a light in the dash for the DLs that didn't have a gauge. so I just wired the EJ sender to it, and it works perfectly! I'll probably do this on my car).

I bought a complete '96 EJ22e with harness and ECU from a friend for 300 last winter....

the rear diff doesn't move almost at all.....it's not like a solid axle vehicle.

crank angle sensor. I guarantee the EJ CAS is not programmed the same as the EA one. also.....why? half the advantage to the EJ motors is the superior computer. the EJ series logic module is very intelligent.....and the wiring is not all that difficult. making it work on the EA computer would be a lot of work with zero gains (or less).

35k miles on my "good" 2-piece (came out of my '85 with 140k on it) with my homemade carrier brackets, and the bearing is loose and noisy and both u-joints on the rear half are seized and causing vibration...... yep, I know the front is a slip shaft, so I'm not terribly worried, but I would like to have as much contact as possible, since it'll be getting abused a bit. also, the EA81 shaft is about the same weight as half of the EA82 shaft. and I just dropped it off at a driveline shop to have it modified, and the guy is going to use slightly narrower tubing, and says it should weigh about the same as it does now, even though it's longer. which would be sweet. less rotating mass is always good!

I measured a few different ways. and always got 9 3/8". which is equivalent to 238.125mm.

as far as I've been able to tell, the MAP sensor is a backup for the MAF. luckily....I've got an extra one....somewhere. I've put about 150 miles on it in the last few days. still runs great, and reads about 1/2 tank. maybe after work tonight I'll fill it up and see what kind of mileage I've been getting.

nope, he's got an RX with it.

well, I plugged in the code reader yesterday.....and it had 9 codes in there, from a number of different things. I cleared them, and only one came back. P0105, Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit. so, some research is in order to figure out wtf that means... no fuel tank pressure sensor, so no code from the gas cap.

if it's only in the left to right direction.....most likely tie rod end. which is pretty much just replace it to fix it. not something to be greased.

alright....spent the day at the junkyard yesterday. (actually....spent the day driving to/from the yard, only spent about an hour there...but whatever). Got some goodies for my car, but a couple things for this one too. most importantly, I pulled an alternator and wiring pigtail from a '91 legacy. plugged that in, and now it charges wonderfully. So I drove it to work, and delivered in it the whole night (alright....slow night, only put like 40 miles on it). works great, love the power, still got a few gremlins, but she's coming along nicely. although, I quickly notice how spoiled I've been with the way my car handles......one little noodle of a sway bar, stock springs and 185/70r13 tires really takes some adjusting (compared to the XT6 bars, GC coilovers, poly bushings and 215/45r17 performance tires on my loyale)! also, got the plastic engine cover from that same legacy, you know the one, that says subaru 16v MPFI something. nice little factory touch. still needs a different speedometer....that's just a matter of me being lazy. also need a rear 02 sensor, and a muffler (nice sound, but it gets obnoxious in a hurry). I meant to plug in my code reader (OBD II engine, still has diagnostic port) to see what code(s) it's throwing. would be sweet if it's just the rear 02.....but I doubt it. I also need to get out the zip ties and go to town under the dash......now that I know things work, I need to clean it up.....a lot! this is all still with the evap line plugged and the gas cap loose.....so I haven't worked on the vapor separator.

as far as I've been able to tell, they are the same. part number overlap in aftermarket catalogs, this '88 FSM only has one set of pump numbers (even though it covers non-turbo, turbo, and '6 versions). also, the SPFI pump in my loyale ran the EJ22e perfectly until it rusted and started leaking......and the EJ22e needs 36.3. when I bought a new one, I bought one for a turbo car, and it made no difference at all. if the SPFI pump was peaking at 30, I would have had problems.

I've got a 1-piece shaft from an EA81 wagon to put in my EA82 (carrier bearing mount wasn't perfect.....bearing is scaring me....). anyone know the length difference? I'm going to measure it tomorrow....but don't have any terribly accurate measuring tools ($5 tape measure and $2 plastic caliper).....

could be.....EA82 FI (as far as I can tell....no difference between turbo, MPFI N/A, and SPFI) pump operates at 43.4, and 95l/h. the EJ22e uses 80l/h at 36.3psi. but the EJ22t uses 150l/h at 43.4. these numbers are out of an '88 XT FSM and '92 Legacy FSM. look into the ford fuel pumps. I got one for a country squire for this '86 EJ22e wagon, and IIRC it was uber overkill for the N/A motor. and it only cost like $30.

I thought I remember hearing that the EA82 touring wagons were only available in '89 here in the US.

people have destroyed the rear output on them. couple on lifted rigs with a second transfer case, and I've heard of people destroying the FT4WD trannies doing the same thing you are. be careful, that center diff isn't bulletproof, and from the reports I've heard, won't show signs until it's too late that said, I've put many thousands of miles on my RX trans in 2WD. mostly FWD due to driveshaft issues (initially it was the lack of a decent carrier bearing mount, lately it's been due to failing u-joints). EDIT: found the passage I was thinking of: "A month of smokey burnouts, drifting, and overwhelming awesomeness came shattering to a halt, when the gears engaging the rear output shaft shredded themselves. (yes, we did open up the case to see exactly what went wrong) No, danbob is no longer RWD."