Numbchux

well....you won't need any performance mods. the stock EG33 puts out a lot of torque. 5MT gears don't hold up well to the EG power. but if you're careful it'll probably be OK. you could just weld up the center diff, or get a diff eliminator (expensive!!), either way the transfer gears are still probably the weak point. 6MT would be a good idea......but is big bucks (think $3k). and will require extreme modification, and wiring. I've heard the stock DCCD can hold like 800 ft/lbs of torque (keep in mind, larger tires, and the gears in the trans itself effect how that number compares to the output of the motor). that's about all I have for now. you've got your work cut out for ya. that kind of power either means big bucks and hundreds of hours of extensive modification and labor. Or lots of broken stuff, and hundreds of hours of replacing broken stuff when you'd rather be wheeling. I don't want to discourage you from this project, it has potential to be extremely bad rump roast. BUT, if you are actually using the power that the EG33 puts out, you're either going to need some pretty well-built stuff. Or you're going to be babying it, in which case, just use an EJ22. actually, if your style of offroading really needs 230 hp in a 2700lb rig. you should really have Dana 60s, 50"+ boggers and a big block.

some camber is unavoidable. just a subaru design "flaw" (if you want to call it that.). a lift and larger tires will both exaggerate the issue. And when you first install something like this, the suspension will sit pretty high. drive it around the block a few times, and it'll settle down a bit, and the camber will become less severe.

yea....a search for "roof lights" turned up this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=369242&postcount=12

That's all..... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1551210

take it off. if you're car is lifted, it's not a race car anymore anyway. a lifted swaybarless subaru is more stable than most solid-axled rigs on the street. disconnects? why? just unbolt an endlink, and it's disconnected. of course, you'll get lazy one day, and not feel like hooking it back up when you're done wheeling, and realize it handles fine without it, and then you'll take it off entirely........go ahead, ask me how I know

time for research. if you want to build an EA car. you need to know them inside and out. the answers to almost all your questions are here. most of them in the repair manual (USRM link at the top of the page). read/study/worship my EA2EJ guide, I've covered in depth much of what you're talking about here, and the 5-lug stuff has been discussed at great length. I've documented everything I've done in great detail right here. so search for posts by me for that stuff. also check out the sticky at the top of this section with a list of all the guys around who have done major swaps, and what they've done, and you can look for their stuff too. don't worry, you've yet to ask a new question.

first you have to figure out what isn't working.....if it's just the indicator light, vacuum leak, electrical problem etc. start by putting the car on ramps, and try locking/unlocking the diff and seeing if the lever on the side of the trans moves. then test for power/ground at the solenoids when engaged, then make sure all vacuum lines are hooked up.

4- and 6- cylinder XTs are completely different. and yes, it sucks because XT6s are very rare.

it's true 4WD. means no center diff. which is why you can't use it on the pavement.

i would bet these 2 are related. IIRC they have the same power source, when I had the dash apart in my '85, I crushed one of the little backlights for the HVAC system, which shorted, blew the fuse, which took out everything. also, I'd highly recommend the Rislone tranny treatment before the cocktail. seems to clean things out really nicely. in fact, I'm thinking about going back to Rislone, I'm just hesitant to drain $40 worth of tranny fluid for an experiment

finally.....life's been hectic lately. I really need to pull those off and put some washers on there, as the nuts are trying to pull through the bracket......but it's worked well, and been like that for close to 30k miles.

yes sir. you'll need the belts themselves, as well as the buckles (they are different!). and you'll probably want the trim. the trim doesn't fit perfectly, but it's pretty close. the top of the B-pillar is slightly different, so you'll have to get a little creative with things to make it all work, but it's very do-able. I actually just finished putting mine all together a couple days ago. the most noticeable difference, is the headliner. the loyale liner is spaced out away from the car to make room for the rail for the belt. so when you go to put in the trim from a GL, the headliner won't reach. EDIT: yaay!!! picture!!!! oh yea, good call on the center console. I don't have one yet, so I haven't dealt with that. you'll either have to modify the console/bracket, leave the lap-belts in there, or swap out the whole thing for a console/bracket from a manual belted car (which won't be high-rise and awesome).

the legacy has a center differential. the brat does not. do not use non-differentiated 4WD one dry pavement.

the holes are not far enough apart to drill a new pattern between them I don't know what number bit, but it was the smaller (~1/4" diameter) grind stone. I think I used up a couple of them.....but I've been running it for almost 35k miles with zero problems.

some info that might help with the new-gen stuff: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1184807

beefaru had issues with running a one-piece in his wagon on some serious high-mileage stuff....but I might try it here before too long. I should have it up off the ground to do a wheel bearing here in a couple days, so I'll try to get a picture of the bracket I made.

that's what I'm running. Loyale shifter/knob with '85 hi/low shifter on my RX trans. he pretty much got it. as for the wiring side. 2 wires to each solenoid, one gets grounded, and the other is switched power. when the power wire is turned on, the solenoid opens and let's the vacuum through to the diaphragm on the trans.

I'm not exactly sure if I'm understanding you completely, but I'll say this. the tranny cases are NOT the same. the bearings that the input shaft ride on are substantially larger. AND there's a "hole" (a little more than just a hole.....but you get the picture) for the low range shift linkage. while it is possible to assemble an EJ D/R trans, really the only reason to do it is to swap in EA parts (low range gears....locking center diff). if you're content with EJ ratios and an EJ LSD center diff, just buy the whole trans from overseas and be done with it. also, even a heavily modified gearbox isn't going to get you much of a gearing advantage. if you really NEED low range. nothing made by subaru is going to help you.

not all FWD impreza 5MTs are 23. late '94 and '95 ones had 25. FWD legacies all had 25, FWD AT imps all had 25 too.

the EA82-length springs compressed to fit on NB Miata front shocks made the rear of my wagon sit about 4" higher than stock, and would not compress.....zero travel at all. So I bought a pair of Monroe shocks for the EA82 to run until I can get my hands on shorter springs (I'm going to skip right to the Ground Control setup.....when I can afford it. and then I'll continue to experiment to see what shock will work best).

other way around

if the legacy in question has female splines on the rear axles, than yes. I believe all 1st gen legacies do. but most EJ cars have male splines on the DOJs that slip into the diff, and no stubs at all.....which obviously wouldn't work.

highway miles are as hard on axles as anything (if not worse...). on my AA high clearance lift (4" at the struts, 3" on the drivetrain) I did ok, but as soon as I cranked up my front struts (had adjustables from my '85), I'd start killing front axles. probably 60% of the front CVs that failed on my cars, failed on the street.....usually on the freeway.

Napa timing belt part #25-050275 from here: http://www.rs25.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75177

I would not go any higher without doing a body lift too. the adjustables already put your axles pretty much at the max...... I ran 215/75r15s on my 4" lifted '88 and only had a little rubbing while beating on it, with very little trimming. and 235/75r15s on a 3" lifted '88 with a bunch of rubbing and a lot of trimming..... you're probably already at ~2".