Numbchux

got your pm....I'd call but since I'm mostly nocturnal.....yea, I'll call tomorrow though. in the mean time. have you checked to see if the rest of the harness is staying on while cranking? the "switched 12v" wire needs to be to a source that stays on while cranking. although it probably wouldn't fire at all if that were the case.....but hard to diagnose over the internet. also, what's the history on the engine? was it known to be running? because this also sounds a bit like a failed/failing Crank Angle Sensor.

CEL codes? if you've gotten that far, it'll probably tell you what's up from there.

that skid plate is DEFINITELY not attached to the engine crossmember. which makes sense since he's working on the exhaust.

there's an oil light on the EA82 dash on the left side right under the gauge cluster (the little bar where the check engine light and whatnot are). as the DLs didn't have a gauge. I used this on the '86 I did last summer.

'00+ legacies use a multilink rear suspension, instead of the modified macpherson. '97 legacy springs are about 5.25" in diameter, '00+ are about 3" you might be able to use them anyway, but they won't sit in the spring perches correctly.

Phizinza....I'm LOVING the rock light setup. never seen 'em on a subie. MysteriousXTC....awesome bumper. seriously impressive fab work there! FYI, the corner lights on the blue wagon were re-wired. the orange, side-facing ones as parking lights, and the white, front-facing ones as turn signals. which is why they're off.

I've been running a Beck/Arnley (brand, not remanufactured, good stuff!) kit for an XT6 that I got from RockAuto.com. I've put about 25k on it (with an EJ22 swap), I just had to loosen the cable a bit, as it has worn, but it's still got lots of life left in it. holds up great to stock EJ22 power, but the pressure plate is not overkill, so the clutch pedal is still very comfortable. I'm building up an EJ22 this winter for more power. shooting for ~150awhp, maybe a bit more. I don't think this clutch will hold up to that, so it'll be coming out.

yea, I don't know the physics behind why it works. but it does. the guys that work at frozen rotors (here in MN....active in the MNSubaru club) go as far as treating they're razor blades, which then last a ridiculously long time.

if you're using a trans with 23 splines....no hybrid necessary. just use the EA81 axles as-is.

wow, this thread has wondered. in theory, a drum setup SHOULD have as much power as discs. but do the swap, and you'll change your tune. also, a rear disc swap would help prevent the fronts from warping because they're not working as hard, and therefore won't build up as much heat. drilled rotors = cracked rotors slotted doesn't help much with heat...helps clean the pads, give more "bit" etc. only thing that you can do to a rotor to prevent warping is cryo treat it. frozenrotors.com offers cryo'd rotors for an EA82 (only listed for an XT, but they're the same). standard for about $90 each, and slotted for 140. I just ordered a full set of frozen rotors for my wagon. IMHO, these are the best rotors money can buy without changing size or material.

rear seat and y-pipe definitely. the pipe before the muffler might be routed differently though, as the rear suspension is quite a bit simpler.

agreed. many cars with a manual had a 3.90, so those rear diffs are quite common. if you don't swap them, your transfer clutches will burn out in very short order, and then you'll only have FWD.

yep, it'll need an 02 sensor. that's a pretty crucial part (will run without....but your mileage/performance will suffer). so, of course, plug is left in the harness. it's ready to ship out.....pm me your addy.

other "half" is stripped now too. pile of excess now:

the first few were good fun. they're getting a bit tedious these days (I've got no less than 8 subaru bulkhead harnesses in my house right now )

front camber is not adjustable. so, in theory......the only way for camber to be different on one side than the other.....is if something is bent.

lots of harness progress today. got the larger "half" off it completely stripped down. stuff I'd cut out as of this afternoon: tonight: harness this afternoon: tonight:

just use real compressors.....they're like $20 to buy, and at most auto parts shops, free to rent.

if you can get the axle off the diff (I wouldn't drop the diff just yet. as I really don't think that will help all that much. it is only 3 bolts, but I just don't think it'll be that much help). if you can get it free of the diff, you can pound the spindle out of the bearings with the axle still attached

yep, Outbacks, foresters, '01 RSs, I think I'd heard it was available on some tribeca's too...but don't quote me on that one.

wiring is coming along nicely. and I've got 4 days off this week, so pretty good chance it'll be done soon.

absolutely awesome idea. love the train of thought. lubrication is AN issue, but I don't think it's THE issue. I just don't think there's a way to get it to spin the right way in that case.

lots of debate of whether it will work or not. but it seems the only one of those posts by someone who's tried includes pictures of it done: http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2089&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=90 SVX uses an r160 VLSD. I agree, I do prefer the clutch-type, but if that isn't available, a VLSD > open every day of the week. and a welded diff isn't for everyone either. you'll need to swap the SVX inner DOJ cups onto the EA shafts. I've heard the XT6 shafts are larger in diameter than other EAs, so in an EA81, you might need custom races. but even that is peanuts compared to trying to get your hands on an EA82 LSD. I plan on putting an SVX rear LSD in one of my EAs this spring. I'll include pics of it as well.

click the link to the EJ-specific page. EJ22t and EJ22k are both listed. I've submitted numerous changes/corrections to that page.