Numbchux

building a harness using an OEM ECU is going to be a project! especially with an OBD II engine. But, you should be able to find what you're looking for here: http://www.northursalia.com/modifications/misc/wiring/wiring.html http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/subbug/manuals.html

sweet! glad to help. what did it turn out to be?

what year EJ22? there are a few different alternator setups. but most work the same way. from the page I include with a new harness: "Large white wire: this is where (as you’ve probably guessed) all the current is. This can be connected directly to the positive battery terminal (a large fusible link is a very good idea), but it might be easiest just to connect directly to the large white wire that went to your old Alt. Yellow wire: This wire is for the voltage regulator. It needs 12v+ when the ignition is on. Very little draw here, so it can come from virtually anywhere. There is an existing wire in the EA harness that will work well for this. Black with White: This is for the charge light on the dash. It will get grounded if the yellow is getting 12v+ but the alt is not charging. Completely optional." if you've got good continuity between the large white wire and the battery. and you've got 12v+ at the yellow wire while the ignition is on. than it's not your wiring.

yea, chevy's have a muuuuuuch lower offset than the subaru wheels. so they won't tuck up into the fenders. but you'll also have more ride height than I do.....

they'd be fine. my summer tires on my wagon are 215s on a 17x8. they don't looked stretched almost at all. actually, the reason I'm stepping down to the 50 series, is my buddy has a set with good tread left for $50 the snow tires on the steelies are 205/65r15s, being the tallest of any of the tires I own now (25.5"). and they fit just fine, with only a hair of rubbing once the rear shocks had gone entirely flat. I may look for some 205/70r15 snows for the XT6 next fall. as long as the wheel offset is high enough (pugs are not), there is a surprising amount of room in those wheel wells.

these? stock WRX wheels and tires. 205/55r16 RE92s. my track tires are 225/55r16s (yes, they fit, even lowered. although rub on the rear trailing arms under hard cornering with the 16x6.5s. they'll be on 16x7s this year). streets are 215/45r17 and snows are 205/65r15.

the bronze WRX wheels have 205/55r16s on them. will be replaced with 205/50r16s this spring.

there's the outback look, still pissed that i sold this car.... and some photoshops of my loyale: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73140 my favorites: currently leaning most towards the green! FYI, those photoshops were made long before I actually owned a complete 5-lug setup, body kit, or Rota Torque wheels.....

AFAIK, the outer dimensions of the bushing is the same as standard EA82....I didn't take any measurements, but I compared them when I did the swap, and they look pretty close.

pssst....check the date

yep, my family and I were stumped by that switch once. it was in my mom's '92 legacy. we ended up pulling the fuse for a few days until I found the switch (that was before I was into these forums....).

a local guy is parting out an '86 GL-10 with checkered seats. I'll be putting the fronts in my wagon, how about the rears? I've never looked very close at sedan rear seats (never owned one). any way to put those in the back of my wagon or XT6?

my issue could have been a result of the oil breaking down. it did have some abuse (2 autoXs, lots of ice racing). but I've put standard oil through that without problems. IMHO, seems like a steep price to pay to improve shifter feel.

I'd really appreciate it if you'd re-post the pictures of your project. as the ones you posted before were in the old gallery, and are no longer there.

ran it in my RX tranny for about 30k miles. shifting was awesome..... then it developed some bearing noise last fall. I promptly drained it and switch to 4 quarts of straight Castrol HypoyC. shifting is harder (almost impossible below zero) when cold, but the noise went away. I think it's like running ATF in a manual: wonderful for cleaning, terrible for lubricating. for temporary use only. I will never use it again, if the synchros need better lubrication, I'll throw a little rislone in it, that I have had good luck with (saved 2nd gear in my dad's '94 LGT, no negative effects after similar mileage).

^lol.....uhh....no in all seriousness. your options are pretty much endless depending what you want, how much you're willing to do, and what you're willing to spend. if budget weren't an issue....I'd just get me a wrecked STi, and go to town. it's more than possible. you could even mate the EJ257 (STi motor) to your RX trans with an adapter plate (and a strong enough clutch....). EJ swaps have been done, dozens of times. I've got an EA82 wagon with an RX trans and an EJ22 that I regularly race in local events. have a look around this section of the forum, check the stickied thread at the top (EJ swap who's who) to see who's done it, and what setup they have, and start searching for posts by those with setups like what you want to see what we like, what we don't, and what we'd do different. oh, and welcome!!

yea, rguyver "just" welded a ring on the inside of the EJ backing plates to make the center hole smaller, then drilled the 3 holes. Kaz made an adapter. not exactly ground-breaking stuff, but definitely pretty cool. my concern is the offset. rguyver found that the rotor offset was perfect the way he did it, by putting an adapter plate between the trailing arm and backing plate pushes it out, which will screw up the spacing between it and the hub face. I suppose you could throw a spacer of the same thickness between the hub face and rotor. but that would push the whole wheel out, which will change how the tire fits in the wheel well (depending on the wheel offset, that could be good or bad). long story short, I'm anxious to see how this turns out.

have a look around. all of this has been covered. from the USRM: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50400 some (AWD?) XT6s use a larger bolt from control arm to crossmember. use the larger bolt and drill out the holes in the xmember. that's what I did, held up wonderfully, about 20k miles and 2 AutoXs. and yes, SuperPro makes bushings, part numbers are listed in a few threads. if you swap the bushings, that might eliminate the bolt difference problem (assuming the other dimensions are the same).

looks like pretty much the exact same thing that rguyver did with his brat a couple years ago. XT6 hubs, and EJ backing plates adapted to the EA trailing arms.

well, would fit and work fine. but you'd be FWD.

what on earth are you talking about?! seriously, fender bender, ignore everything in this last post. I don't know what on earth he thought he was referring to, but had nothing to do with your issue. yea, assuming the '98 is also an auto, it'll all bolt straight up, plug in, and work just fine. no modifications required.

Sounds like a neat car, but not an EJ-swap...so really doesn't belong here.

no kidding! won't be much to report for awhile though. the girlfriend and I are going to Chicago for spring break in about a month. so I won't be spending any money until after that.

pulled it apart. the one that was in my wagon is totally chewed up because it cavitated and was un-lubricated metal on metal. might go take a couple pictures. EDIT: picture. parts on the left are from a destroyed one. ones on the right from this immaculate one.

Picked up a motor and FWD 4EAT from a '90 legacy with about 180k miles on them for $100. appears that the motor was cared for fairly well while it was in the car, but has been stored very poorly. so some brackets bent/broken, and a few things dried/rusty (mostly tbelt pulleys). Started tearing it down the last few days: got it unloaded, and started taking some things off to ease the trip down into the basement: Subaru timing belt.....possibly original got it in the house, and set up on the bench: a table just for the engine: pulled the flex plate, and found this......somebody must have dropped it through the access panel. one of the mounts where the PS bracket bolts to the block is broken. nothing behind it though, so I'm thinking I'll tap threads in there, and run a slightly longer bolt. still got the crosshatching: Came with a power steering pump, pulled it apart, and it's in great shape. which is awesome, because mine is.....well.......not