Numbchux

also has to be jdm due to the year, as we didn't get the 6MT until '04. I, too, am curious about the controller. I've got a buddy using a spiider unit, and the rallyamerica car that I'm servicing for has a GEMS controller in it (EXTREMELY nice unit, but like $2k, IIRC).

:slobber::eek: :banana: nice work! driven it much? any clearance issues? I thought GLoyale had clearance issues with the EJ 4EAT, and I thought the 6MT was a bit bigger than the 4EAT. rear diff?

I'd go as far as to say 100hp out of a carbed, cali-model N/A EA82 isn't possible. fuel economy is a mysterious lady. yes, an engine with more power to give CAN mean it doesn't work as hard to maintain speed. But, as GD said, usually not. Generally speaking, intake and exhaust restrictions can fit under this category, specifically speaking about your car, the intake is fine (as long as the filter is in good shape), but there is a bit to be gained from the exhaust. a weber carb would allow you to tune it more specifically, and make the engine much more efficient. which would probably yield better power AND mileage (once/if it's tuned correctly). but you'd risk smog failure. an SPFI swap might not though....but I don't know the specifics. all the vacuum solenoids and crap that are under the hood of that car are definitely not necessary for efficiency's sake. but you might be right in saying that messing them will risk failing smog. BUT, vacuum leaks will hurt everything. so depending on the condition of them, it might be a big help to go through there and replace a bunch of those hoses. as mentioned, 30mpg is awesome for your car. my '85 cali-spec carbed EA82 was lucky to see 20. that thing was the biggest POS subaru I've ever owned, and just because of all the cali-spec garbage. considering your situation, I'd say the only "modification" that might help is exhaust. free it up after the cats, and you might gain a bit. Then just tune-up stuff. plugs, wires, cap, rotor, filters, 02 sensor (my '85 had one.....), etc.

hmmmm......I may have to do that for my projects. beats the heck out of waiting for SuperPro to get me a set!

essentially no. There are a few sets of OEM subaru 14" wheels floating around, but they are INSANELY rare. seriously, I'd guess less than 5 sets in North America. your best bet is 6-lug or peugeots.

in the grand scheme of all engines known to man. yea, not too bad. I still rate them as pretty much the worst that subaru has made. I'd buy an EJ25D.....wouldn't even accept a free EA82.

no 22t isn't any better than a 22e. in fact, in most high-hp applications, they just overheat because all the coolant passages are filled with aluminum. 20t is kind of generic. as they've been making them for 15 years. and they're all pretty mediocre, reliability-wise. ditto on EJ25. the 25d had the headgasket issues. but 251s and 253s are still great motors. and I'd put 255s and 257s at the top of the list. my list: EJ257 EJ255 EJ22e Phase I EJ22t EG33 EZ30D EJ207 EJ253 EJ20G EJ251 EA81 EJ22e Phase II EJ18 EJ20R EJ20H EZ30DR EJ205 ER27 EJ25D EZ36DR EA82 Justy EA82t I'm with GD. I wouldn't drive an EA82 if it was free. I wouldn't accept it unless it was worth something for scrap, or I had intended to swap it (an Ea82 shell with an EJ22 is pretty much pure automotive sex....)

probably about half the time that I needed to replace the radius rod, I had to replace the control arm too. never tweaked the mount.....maybe EA82 xmembers are a bit tougher.

I probably bent/destroyed 8-10 of those while wheelin my subarus. and even so, managed to rip all 6 captive nuts out of the framerails at some point too.... I'd leave 'em weak and carry extras!

yep, Stage rally can't be done on a junkyard budget. you're looking at about $5k in safety equipment alone, just to be allowed to run. plus licensing, etc. etc. etc. Rallycross....details depend on the event you're entering and the club/organization hosting it. but typically, a helmet, and a car in decent condition (functional lights, no major leaks, solid brake pedal, etc.).

I don't think running it in low is going to hurt anything, specifically. But, running it in 4WD will. As scott mentioned, though, it is possible to separate the linkages, and run it in 2WD Lo.

with stock pulleys, it will probably boost about 4-5psi. which is pretty conservative, considering the rest of the build. But, I still expect about 150awhp. with a larger crank pulley, I should be able to bring it up to about 8-9psi before maxing out these injectors (stock turbo legacy), at which point, I don't think 200awhp is out of the question. then with larger injectors. I could step the boost up a bit more, something like 10-11psi before I have to start worrying about the setup with this compression. I don't plan to go to this point at this compression. once I max out the injectors, my next step will be a whole new engine. probably an EJ255/257 semi-closed shortblock, and EJ25D heads/intake. but that's all a couple years off. might just skip it and go diesel

yep, '85-'86s had adjustable fronts and rears. but I've not seen aftermarket adjustables for many years. all 4-lug EA82 struts are entirely interchangeable. I just looked on RockAuto. and don't see any multiple part numbers for 4WD EA82s.

nice. I like that. might have to get one like that for my yota....this OEM Prius CD deck skips constantly

Mark Utecht (in the mustang) usually wins. this was the first time anyone beat him at this event (the green impreza beat him in the afternoon). and he's running a 383CI V8 pushing more than 400rwhp, and Winterforce tires

Driver's name is Carl. Dave cusses more than a little, but I think it's mostly during Transit. when I watched them, I don't think he did on-stage. That's Kelly's girlfriend (don't get too excited. Kelly is a guy )

the car is for sale, but the build continues. couple more parts arrived: I had pretty much giving up finding a subaru AWIC......then i got a tip from someone at the Nemadji 1 rally, and now I have one. I'll have to do something about that sticker though....."Turbo" just doesn't fit anymore and then these pretties: HUGE thanks to Ken and everyone at Delta for their work on the project. Heads were mildly ported/polished, rebuilt, and cams reground for torque. They're gorgeous! I was thinking about taking them downstairs, and bolting them up to the motor.....but I think I'll put them on the shelf here in the living room Toll Free: 1.800.562.5500

we placed 2nd in class for both 2a and 2b. we placed 5th overall for 2a and 3rd overall for 2b. i think the rain worked to our advantage as the clay based road got very very slick and our low power and good awd (GEMS controlled dccd) system seemed to handle it very well. in-car with the #171 SlowTi s4 ss5 (Carl actually dislocates his shoulder on stage halfway through) ss6 (adventure into the ditch at ~5:20) in-car with Mark Utecht for all six stages http://www.youtube.com/user/29mustang Kelly's pics: For all the photo's go here http://public.fotki.com/snbrd4evr/car-rela...s/nemadji-2-09/ Jerry Winkers photos

well, the bellhousing on the engine side is the same. so yea, you'll need an adapter plate. I would be you'd need the EA torque converter to make sure the starter gears engage. you might be able to find an EJ flex plate to mount to the EA torque converter, or just modify the EA one like we do with the flywheels. the wiring will be the interesting part. as there are a number of wires going from the ECU to the TCU. But it is theoretically possible, as I know people have used the EJ TCU with an EA engine/trans. also, yea, a loyale with a 4EAT is pretty rare. only in '90, and only the turbos. almost all of them have the 3AT.

yea, anything 2.2 or smaller until at least 97 are cable. I think '97+ 2.5s are hydro, but 2.2s are still cable.....but I'm not positive.

yep, when I did the lift on my wagon, I jacked up the car a bit, put jackstands under the crossmember. then used 2 jacks, one on each side, to lift the car from the framerails until I had enough clearance to fit the crossmember blocks in there. rotate the rear strut top 180. that, combined with 2 of the little angle pieces pushes it down and out a bit.

I've never heard of one binding up enough that you could drive the car on it. and even if I had one that was totally locked, I wouldn't trust it to get me to the end of the driveway and back in 2WD.

you could definitely pull the rear housing off, and weld up the center diff. been done many times (usually for RWD....but the effect is the same). not for the faint of heart, though. especially when subaru made FWD 5MTs.....just grab one of those and drop it in. done and done.

if you leave all the weight in there, you might as well just put it in FWD. removing them isn't hard, and isn't permanent. and seriously, if all you remove is the driveshaft.....there are almost zero benefits.

mileage, performance. if you actually remove the driveshaft, rear diff, and axles....that's a lot of rotating mass (not to mention it's weight independent of the rotating factor). yea, driveshaft, rear diff, axles, mustache bar.....all can be removed. you might want to still put the outer DOJ cups on the spindles, as they help keep dust/dirt out of the bearings. although, I really don't understand how not offroading means not driving in the snow :confused: