Numbchux

yep, Stage rally can't be done on a junkyard budget. you're looking at about $5k in safety equipment alone, just to be allowed to run. plus licensing, etc. etc. etc. Rallycross....details depend on the event you're entering and the club/organization hosting it. but typically, a helmet, and a car in decent condition (functional lights, no major leaks, solid brake pedal, etc.).

I don't think running it in low is going to hurt anything, specifically. But, running it in 4WD will. As scott mentioned, though, it is possible to separate the linkages, and run it in 2WD Lo.

with stock pulleys, it will probably boost about 4-5psi. which is pretty conservative, considering the rest of the build. But, I still expect about 150awhp. with a larger crank pulley, I should be able to bring it up to about 8-9psi before maxing out these injectors (stock turbo legacy), at which point, I don't think 200awhp is out of the question. then with larger injectors. I could step the boost up a bit more, something like 10-11psi before I have to start worrying about the setup with this compression. I don't plan to go to this point at this compression. once I max out the injectors, my next step will be a whole new engine. probably an EJ255/257 semi-closed shortblock, and EJ25D heads/intake. but that's all a couple years off. might just skip it and go diesel

yep, '85-'86s had adjustable fronts and rears. but I've not seen aftermarket adjustables for many years. all 4-lug EA82 struts are entirely interchangeable. I just looked on RockAuto. and don't see any multiple part numbers for 4WD EA82s.

nice. I like that. might have to get one like that for my yota....this OEM Prius CD deck skips constantly

Mark Utecht (in the mustang) usually wins. this was the first time anyone beat him at this event (the green impreza beat him in the afternoon). and he's running a 383CI V8 pushing more than 400rwhp, and Winterforce tires

Driver's name is Carl. Dave cusses more than a little, but I think it's mostly during Transit. when I watched them, I don't think he did on-stage. That's Kelly's girlfriend (don't get too excited. Kelly is a guy )

the car is for sale, but the build continues. couple more parts arrived: I had pretty much giving up finding a subaru AWIC......then i got a tip from someone at the Nemadji 1 rally, and now I have one. I'll have to do something about that sticker though....."Turbo" just doesn't fit anymore and then these pretties: HUGE thanks to Ken and everyone at Delta for their work on the project. Heads were mildly ported/polished, rebuilt, and cams reground for torque. They're gorgeous! I was thinking about taking them downstairs, and bolting them up to the motor.....but I think I'll put them on the shelf here in the living room Toll Free: 1.800.562.5500

we placed 2nd in class for both 2a and 2b. we placed 5th overall for 2a and 3rd overall for 2b. i think the rain worked to our advantage as the clay based road got very very slick and our low power and good awd (GEMS controlled dccd) system seemed to handle it very well. in-car with the #171 SlowTi s4 ss5 (Carl actually dislocates his shoulder on stage halfway through) ss6 (adventure into the ditch at ~5:20) in-car with Mark Utecht for all six stages http://www.youtube.com/user/29mustang Kelly's pics: For all the photo's go here http://public.fotki.com/snbrd4evr/car-rela...s/nemadji-2-09/ Jerry Winkers photos

well, the bellhousing on the engine side is the same. so yea, you'll need an adapter plate. I would be you'd need the EA torque converter to make sure the starter gears engage. you might be able to find an EJ flex plate to mount to the EA torque converter, or just modify the EA one like we do with the flywheels. the wiring will be the interesting part. as there are a number of wires going from the ECU to the TCU. But it is theoretically possible, as I know people have used the EJ TCU with an EA engine/trans. also, yea, a loyale with a 4EAT is pretty rare. only in '90, and only the turbos. almost all of them have the 3AT.

yea, anything 2.2 or smaller until at least 97 are cable. I think '97+ 2.5s are hydro, but 2.2s are still cable.....but I'm not positive.

yep, when I did the lift on my wagon, I jacked up the car a bit, put jackstands under the crossmember. then used 2 jacks, one on each side, to lift the car from the framerails until I had enough clearance to fit the crossmember blocks in there. rotate the rear strut top 180. that, combined with 2 of the little angle pieces pushes it down and out a bit.

I've never heard of one binding up enough that you could drive the car on it. and even if I had one that was totally locked, I wouldn't trust it to get me to the end of the driveway and back in 2WD.

you could definitely pull the rear housing off, and weld up the center diff. been done many times (usually for RWD....but the effect is the same). not for the faint of heart, though. especially when subaru made FWD 5MTs.....just grab one of those and drop it in. done and done.

if you leave all the weight in there, you might as well just put it in FWD. removing them isn't hard, and isn't permanent. and seriously, if all you remove is the driveshaft.....there are almost zero benefits.

mileage, performance. if you actually remove the driveshaft, rear diff, and axles....that's a lot of rotating mass (not to mention it's weight independent of the rotating factor). yea, driveshaft, rear diff, axles, mustache bar.....all can be removed. you might want to still put the outer DOJ cups on the spindles, as they help keep dust/dirt out of the bearings. although, I really don't understand how not offroading means not driving in the snow :confused:

couple things going on here. first, the pins you listed are not all on the same circuit. study the diagram again. 17 and 18 are grounds, simple as can be. should be entirely independent from 82. 75 should also be a ground (although it's not listed on the pinout....something to do with the traction control system) 82 is the neutral switch. if you study the diagrams, you'll probably notice that a number of the wires are marked (AT) or (MT). this is because the polarity of the neutral start switch is different depending on what kind of trans is attached to it. so the diagram gets kinda confusing. simple version is: assuming you've got pin 81 grounded (telling it that it's hooked up to a manual), 82 should be grounded when the trans is in neutral. this is entirely optional, but the ECU will throw a code if it isn't hooked up.

yep, good for '89-'94 legacies

no Ea81 had 25 splines Ea82 and EJ22 axles are longer and will not work with EA81 control arms. so, if you want a 25 spline trans and EA81 hubs.....there's probably a way to put 25-spline DOJ cups on the EA81 shafts.

I don't know how you could get this far and have such a simple problem....the power and ground circuits pretty much don't need to be modified.....but depends who did it and how... http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/1992_Legacy_ECU_I-O.pdf

sell the carb, swap to FI. yes, it can be done. but even if perfectly tuned, I HIGHLY doubt you'll ever see as much power as with the stock FI. but perfect tuning doesn't come easy, and it'll involve quite a bit of fabrication. the FI will have gobs of power from the moment you turn the key. and if you have problems, it has some capabilities to tell you what is wrong via the CEL.

I've done it both ways, and I've always said a parts car is better than parts. you know the history, you know you have everything, and you can probably make a few bucks selling off stuff you don't need.

correction: sprung and valved softer than the impreza considering their weight. i.e. they're almost identical.

I haven't had one in my wagon since the engine swap. 35k miles with an EJ22. couple AutoXs, lots of ice racing, lots of driving like a moron. haven't noticed any negative effects. BUT, there should not be enough force on it to break it. that's what would concern me. definitely check those engine/trans mounts.

sucks man!!!! why on earth were you running 92 in it? don't like your money very much?