Numbchux

also, there's an extremely important number being left out. the sidewall height. 235/35r15s would probably fit wonderfully on a stock height car, and 225/80r15s would be a tight fit on 4".

all '87-'89 RXs are 3-door coupes. but not vice-versa. also all '85-'86 RXs are sedans, but again, not vice-versa. there are lots of sedans and coupes that are DLs, GLs, and GL-10s. available with many tranny options. only the RX coupes had the FT4WD AND dual range. as far as I know, no non-turbo Ea82s were available with FT4WD with a locking center diff. only the turbos. a genuine RX will have the regular 5-speed linkage. and then behind that (towards the rear of the car), a lever to shift from hi to lo, and a small electrical switch next to it to lock the center diff. the electrical switch controls a pair of vacuum solenoids on the driver's side strut tower, that directs vacuum to the trans to lock the center diff. many standard EA82s had part-time 4WD Dual-Range trannies with just the hi-lo lever, that also selects FWD. the linkage from one of these can be used on a RX trans. some Ea82s had part-time 4WD with single range. these had a button on the top of the 5-speed shifter to engage the rear end. this button controls solenoids identical to the RX diff lock one. neither of these are a "diff lock", they are fully locked when engaged, but no diff, the other 2 wheels are just completely disengaged and coast. I suspect the "diff lock" trans you have is a single range PT4WD trans, and the other is a dual-range PT4WD.

if the '94 really is a loyale, it'll have a distributer, almost identical to the '87. same place, slightly different sensor between the carb'ed setup and FI. if you're '94 doesn't have a distributor, it's not an Ea82, and therefore isn't an Ea82. if it's an impreza, it could actually be an EJ18, and therefore wouldn't have a disty.

well, first off. All genuine RXs are turbo. and all 5MT RXs have locking center diff and dual range. that said, the linkages from a part-time 4wd dual-range (any EA82 gl, very common) will work just fine. the hi-lo linkage is a bit shorter in the part-time setup, but it will work alright. and isn't too hard to lengthen (I cut it in half, cut some threads into it, and used a threaded coupler. worked great!). and the diff lock solenoids are the same as anything with a push button PT4WD 5MT (loyales or DLs).

yea, removable air-dam = good idea. I removed it for the first couple years. then a snowbank removed it last year. it'll be hard to make whole again great info though. this could make my old one usable!

look! a picture of my crappy carrier bearing "brackets"

she admitted that I had the right of way in the statement, so she wasn't trying to get out of anything. she was just so clueless, she still didn't know where I came from. really no argument about who was at fault. and I'm sure the collision shop quote will be $2-3k. so I'm pretty sure they'll total it out. really the only thing left to argue is the value of the car so they can cut me a check.

still haven't gotten a good look at it. hopefully I'll get more info tomorrow.... BUT, I have hatched an evil plan that involves resurrecting the '6 with 100% more badass, and buying an '84 Audi coupe GT.

I would bet one is reverse and the other is neutral. switched to ground like the other 2.

reminds me of this: I love it!

I've been passively watching for a diagram, hoping to find something. to no avail. I'll probably get my multimeter out and just start testing stuff to see what does what.

just awesome!

looking at where the bar is hitting the control arm in my loyale, I wonder if the sway bar mounts are further forward, relative the control arms, on an XT6....

when I did the AWD swap in my loyale. I didn't do any welding or cutting on the rear diff hanger bolts. just drilled and tapped. it's been 5 years now, and almost 50k miles. zero problems there. the legacy tophats work fine with the stock holes, just have to enlarge them a bit. EJ tophat in my XT6, took me about 2 minutes per side with a dremel to get them to fit: I know you're already down the road of modification, but for future reference....definitely overkill yep, I had to drill out the engine crossmember. I made some carrier bearing brackets. but 40k miles or so turned a perfectly good driveshaft into junk (bearing AND 2 u-joints shot). I have since converted to a one-piece, seems to have helped. my setup: XT6 rear hubs, rotors, backing plates and front control arms. EA82t rear caliper brackets '88 Nissan 200SX rear calipers (coupled with legacy handle and cables for rear ebrake) '92 FWD legacy front knuckles, axles and struts EA81 tie rod ends '02 2.5RS front brakes '04 Mazda Miata rear shocks Genuine Ground-Control coilover sleeves, 250lb/in in the front and 275 in the rear.

she never even tried for an excuse. her account of what happened on the police report was completely wrong. thank goodness there were some pedestrians on the sidewalk to back up my story. Although, she had her mother at the car. Talk about a stereotypical truth

I've already mentioned on the XT boards. but I figured I'd put it up here too. Last friday a woman made a left turn from the right lane in front of me. Car was towed, and is now at a body shop for an estimate for repairs. I'm not looking forward to the result pictures: passenger side wheel is pushed back noticeably, control arm looks mostly straight, couldn't see the leading rod. CV joint BROKE! like axle flopping around. would explain why it would roll a bit in park, but I could still drive it forward 10 ft or so out of the road.

I don't know what the tolerances and whatnot are, but just from the picture it looks to be pretty close. any chance it would fit if the block were torqued down? case halves snug together and heads on tight?

not any more than a PT4WD trans. the transfer gears will be strained, but as long as you don't drive like a total nutcase, it'll work. the locker is not the weak link. I ran my RX trans for about 8k miles in FWD (only had the front half of the driveshaft). I've put about 30k on it since then, locker still works great!

well, the stock springs are 2.5" ID. 12" long 250lb/in is a nice upgrade for a wagon. I've purchased a couple sets from ground-control for my cars. was a little on the stiff side for the XT6, but perfect on the wagon before I switched to miata hardware. I'd say if you could get something in ~250 lb/in in the same un-weighted length that you've got now, you'd be in business.

I don't know about that. you can get an EA82 teetering on 2 wheels, and still open/close all 4 doors just fine. can't do that in a jeep but yea, I love a doorless subie!

lol @ those of you who are fooled yea, Phiz did that. bobbed the front AND rear, and lifted it more than it really was (you can see where the ground was copied under the car). http://offroadingsubarus.com/bobbed_brumby.html original: chopped:

yep, yep. I wasn't too clear. I meant the EJ axles can fit in place of an EA82. I'm not hopeful about an EJ axle working in an EA81.

yea, and EJ axles are a hair longer than EA82. they work (for some of us.....although Noah had some issues....ended up lengthening the control arms), but it's close.

you'd have to cut and re-weld the flanges, as they'd be 90 degrees off...and I don't think the crossover would clear the oil pan. would be easier to weld up a new system, you could probably re-use the stock header, and just make a new up-pipe that relocates the turbo.

yea, it'll run. but it won't have any power (N/A compression EA82s only have like 90. a turbo compression one without the turbo.....yea). you can relocate it. wouldn't be too difficult to fabricate some exhaust tubing and oil/coolant lines to put it wherever you need it.