Numbchux

WJM did it years ago. search for posts from him. IIRC it was way too much for the stock computer. but he might have used them when he converted to Megasquirt.

something's missing here: oh yea.......there it is:

My car used to be FWD, so there was no carrier bearing mount. I fabricated one, but the bearing/ujoints failed after about 30k miles. So I grabbed one off an EA81 wagon, had it lengthened 9" (IIRC), and have been using it ever since. it does rub on the mounting bolts for my ebrake handle and such (stick out further than stock....) when really hammering on it, but I think if my rear diff bushing wasn't shot, that wouldn't be a problem.

Perfect!! and good news too

got it home yesterday, still fighting with the insurance company, ugh. But I noticed (I don't know how I overlooked it...) some more damage on the rear quarter. the other car must have spun after the initial impact and hit the rear quarter as well. took the fenders, bumper, and headlights off. it looks fixable. I think I'm just going to attach a big ol' D ring to the bumper mount, and with the help of my 4runner and a chain, give it a good yank in the opposite direction from the impact. only noticeable damage to the frame is right under the airbox mount. there's a small kink. But the front end is definitely pushed off to the side. somehow the washer tank with only minor bumps and bruises. Intake silencer.....not so much

anyone? for a first-gen legacy ('93 IIRC). I have wiring diagrams, but I would like to see the pinout voltage chart.....

yea, I wanted to put a new bearing in it.....so I stalled, and stalled.......and stalled some more. glad I didn't put it in! and yea, the frame is definitely tweaked. But, it looks like it's all in front of the crossmember, so probably won't effect suspension geometry. I'll use my 4runner and a chain to give it a yank the other way, throw some crappy body panels on it, and keep drivin it. got new plans for the supercharged 22e

Talked to the insurance adjuster today, lots of legalese....but it sounds like if the car was not reported stolen (I don't know one way or the other....), the insurance company is required to pay. They are going to do some investigating into the situation. tomorrow I will call the insurance company back and inform them of this, and that I have every intention of hiring an attorney should this be the case. It also sounds like I'm entitled to more compensation, should it come to a lawsuit, since I've been without a car for a month and counting. I'm just lucky I happen to have another driveable vehicle....most people would have been SOL! Also had the car towed home. Took a closer look, and found more damage. looks like in the impact, the other car spun around and hit the rear quarter on my car, as that's dented in. the wheel/suspension may have taken a hit as well. luckily I had intended on replacing that triling arm anyway (I bent the stock one last winter on a curb, and have one with no sway bar mounts in it now....). Then I bent the headlight out enough to get the hood open, and as soon as I released the latch, the front of the hood shifted to the passenger side ~1/4". So the whole front end is tweaked.....ugh. BUT, I've got a spare axle and control arm/leading rod, so I should be able to fix the mechanical stuff pretty easily..... pictures to come.

Quite to the contrary....I'm sure it is NOT too late, which is why I'm getting the ball rolling. although, I hadn't planned on suing the company........just the other driver. I'll probably have more luck getting my $$ out of a nationwide company than some lady that lives 2 blocks from me (not a good neighborhood!) not much to happen on the weekend as far as legal steps are concerned.....but monday will bring more phone calling.

yea, the insurance company isn't in the clear, I'm making phone calls like mad lately......ugh... anyway, talked to the MN Insurance Commissioner, and they're going to put pressure on the company, but I might have to talk to the WA state one as the agent is based out there. I have called the company stating that if the car wasn't reported stolen, even though it received substantial damage, obviously she had permission. they talked me in circles for awhile, until I gave up. I have decided to get the ball rolling on the lawsuit, though, even though it might not end that way. Maybe if she gets served, she'll realize I'm getting paid, and I don't care who's pocket it comes out of, she'll do the right thing and contact the insurance company.

depends if you want the dash and stuff behind it to be usable. but yea, you're looking at about 3-5 hours. it's a project.

I don't remember a gray one. that brown thing is actually 2 diodes. the WR and RL wires are for the A/C or something......I cut the wires off short. the other 2 are for the self-shutoff control. Y gets power while the key is on, Lg to the ECU/Main relay. you can cut it out, just send the source straight to the relay, that's how I set it up in my Loyale, but I prefer leaving it as it was designed, and every harness I've done since uses it.

just the bulkhead harness. behind the dash/HVAC ducting, in the driver's side fender etc. Don't need the engine harness itself (under the intake mani). I've got before/after pics of one on my website: http://numbchuxconversions.com/services.htm

don't sweat it.....took me awhile to figure that out too

that is some nasty rust, but workable. you'd need to reinforce the frame rails before doing much with them. very cool, but definitely asking too much. I wouldn't pay more than 1500 for the pair. don't bother on the justy.

Got a letter from the insurance company yesterday. Because the woman who was driving wasn't the owner or policy holder, and they haven't contacted the insurance company, they're assuming that she didn't have permission to drive the car, and as a result are "respectfully denying payment" on the claim. that all took long enough that I need to act very soon to sue her. So I need to raise some money.....so I'm offering a discount on EJ swap harnesses: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=103170

that's what I mean. if the EA81 stuff works in my loyale......I bet it would work better in a gen 1 either way, you wouldn't be the first to cut some length out of an EJ rod end. WJM cut an inch or so out of his when he did the 5-lug on his RX.

To keep this short.....My XT6 was in a major accident. just got a letter from the insurance company saying that they found a loophole, and won't be covering it (the woman who was driving didn't own the car or insurance policy....). So my only choice is to sue her. But it needs to happen next week, and costs money. SO. If the payment is in my possession (check in my hands or $$$ in my paypal acct) by Monday, September 7th, at the latest, I will accept $150 for an EJ22 swap harness. That's right, $100 off my regular price!!!! If you're not quite ready to send a donor harness, I will reserve your spot at the top of the list (well...right after the other 2 I'm working on, which will hopefully be out of here by next week sometime anyway), get it done as quickly as I can once I do receive it, and will not charge you a penny more! Help me save my XT6! I'm only looking for two people to do this, so contact me ASAP.

you can't loosen the rod ends enough to get the EA81 ones to work? that's what I'm running on my loyale, works great. IIRC XT6 ones are somewhere between the EA81 and EJ rod ends in length, and use the larger taper stud.

some pics from the event: these guys were nuts. I really have to get my video pulled of my camera, I would have sworn it was an open class car watching it on the super special stage, he was showing up pastrana and block......but it's Open LIGHT, built N/A 2.5l putting out barely 200awhp. Crazy Polish drivers Here's how Friday night went for us.... dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude xIfL6d2DAF8 And this is why you do not stand on the outside of a corner when Mark is around..... my pictures: albums: http://www.worldrallysport.com/content/oji...ests-rally-2009 http://www.terrafirmaclothing.com/terrafir...bwe-day-1-pics/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/figzphoto/ http://www.comicozzie.com/gallery2/v/2009/OF09/ http://www.rlsmotorsports.com/Automotive/O...20_kCnGD#P-1-15 btw, that's me, and it's at about 2am in the parking lot of our hotel..... http://rally-america.com/events/2009/OFPR/gallery/

I don't have the diagrams in front of me. but I can tell you that that refers to a fuse. It'll be listed in the "power supply routing" page of the wiring diagrams, where you can trace whether it's a switched or constant source.

mounting points are identical, lengths are not. FWD front struts are a bit shorter than 4WD ones. the rear is the exact opposite, and by quite a bit, because the mounting point on the trailing arm is quite a bit lower. even though the FWD ride height is lower, the FWD rear struts are noticeably longer than the 4WD ones. that said, if you're planning on converting, get what you want to have after the conversion, which would presumably be all 4WD parts (a pair of FWD rear struts would give you about 1.5-2" of lift in the rear.....), and rock them with the FWD stuff.

I am not a carb guy. it's no mystery..... But, the wiring is a bit complex, but once it's done, it's done. no messing with a carb to get it tuned right. Whichever sounds more up your alley Carb: modifying/fabricating the intake manifold to accept a carb, sourcing/installing a distributor (not exactly common), sourcing/installing a carb of suitable size, modifying throttle cable bracketry, and tuning. FI: stripping the wiring harness, replacing the fuel pump and a little fuel line (IMHO, no need to upgrade the whole system. just the rubber lines and clamps on the high-pressure side), and turn the key. after a few minutes, the stock ECU will automatically have it tuned perfectly.

I went to advance auto parts, and bought whatever generic 10" radiator fan they had on the shelf. cost about $50. NOTE: do NOT use the included zip-tie-looking things that pull through the radiator fins to mount them. the vibration from the fan transmitted to the radiator core will cause early failure. I then went to Home Depot. and bought a couple chunks of 1"x1/8" aluminum. cut them to the height of the radiator. drilled a hole in each end, and then matching holes in the metal bracket at the top and bottom of the radiator. drilled 2 holes in the middle of them, and zip-tied the fan to the aluminum. you'll want to test fit all this off the car, to get your spacing right, but it works wonderfully. no pictures of this on a subaru, (I did it on my loyale, and the '86 GL that I did last summer), but I did it on my 4Runner this spring. same idea, but left it as a puller fan: Also, it should be noted. I drive my loyale in town, almost all the time. rarely above 45mph. but never in stopped traffic, other than the occasional stop-light wait. the controller module that I bought with the fan became immensely corroded (huh, only about 2 feet of wire to the temp sensor on the radiator, but not water-proof.....ugh), and failed. the fan didn't work for months. car never overheated. So the fan really isn't needed except on the hottest days, and under ~15mph for more than about 10 minutes. it doesn't have to be much.

"can't" isn't quite true. but it would be an enormous pain!!