Numbchux

I don't remember a gray one. that brown thing is actually 2 diodes. the WR and RL wires are for the A/C or something......I cut the wires off short. the other 2 are for the self-shutoff control. Y gets power while the key is on, Lg to the ECU/Main relay. you can cut it out, just send the source straight to the relay, that's how I set it up in my Loyale, but I prefer leaving it as it was designed, and every harness I've done since uses it.

just the bulkhead harness. behind the dash/HVAC ducting, in the driver's side fender etc. Don't need the engine harness itself (under the intake mani). I've got before/after pics of one on my website: http://numbchuxconversions.com/services.htm

don't sweat it.....took me awhile to figure that out too

that is some nasty rust, but workable. you'd need to reinforce the frame rails before doing much with them. very cool, but definitely asking too much. I wouldn't pay more than 1500 for the pair. don't bother on the justy.

Got a letter from the insurance company yesterday. Because the woman who was driving wasn't the owner or policy holder, and they haven't contacted the insurance company, they're assuming that she didn't have permission to drive the car, and as a result are "respectfully denying payment" on the claim. that all took long enough that I need to act very soon to sue her. So I need to raise some money.....so I'm offering a discount on EJ swap harnesses: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=103170

that's what I mean. if the EA81 stuff works in my loyale......I bet it would work better in a gen 1 either way, you wouldn't be the first to cut some length out of an EJ rod end. WJM cut an inch or so out of his when he did the 5-lug on his RX.

To keep this short.....My XT6 was in a major accident. just got a letter from the insurance company saying that they found a loophole, and won't be covering it (the woman who was driving didn't own the car or insurance policy....). So my only choice is to sue her. But it needs to happen next week, and costs money. SO. If the payment is in my possession (check in my hands or $$$ in my paypal acct) by Monday, September 7th, at the latest, I will accept $150 for an EJ22 swap harness. That's right, $100 off my regular price!!!! If you're not quite ready to send a donor harness, I will reserve your spot at the top of the list (well...right after the other 2 I'm working on, which will hopefully be out of here by next week sometime anyway), get it done as quickly as I can once I do receive it, and will not charge you a penny more! Help me save my XT6! I'm only looking for two people to do this, so contact me ASAP.

you can't loosen the rod ends enough to get the EA81 ones to work? that's what I'm running on my loyale, works great. IIRC XT6 ones are somewhere between the EA81 and EJ rod ends in length, and use the larger taper stud.

some pics from the event: these guys were nuts. I really have to get my video pulled of my camera, I would have sworn it was an open class car watching it on the super special stage, he was showing up pastrana and block......but it's Open LIGHT, built N/A 2.5l putting out barely 200awhp. Crazy Polish drivers Here's how Friday night went for us.... dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude dude xIfL6d2DAF8 And this is why you do not stand on the outside of a corner when Mark is around..... my pictures: albums: http://www.worldrallysport.com/content/oji...ests-rally-2009 http://www.terrafirmaclothing.com/terrafir...bwe-day-1-pics/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/figzphoto/ http://www.comicozzie.com/gallery2/v/2009/OF09/ http://www.rlsmotorsports.com/Automotive/O...20_kCnGD#P-1-15 btw, that's me, and it's at about 2am in the parking lot of our hotel..... http://rally-america.com/events/2009/OFPR/gallery/

I don't have the diagrams in front of me. but I can tell you that that refers to a fuse. It'll be listed in the "power supply routing" page of the wiring diagrams, where you can trace whether it's a switched or constant source.

mounting points are identical, lengths are not. FWD front struts are a bit shorter than 4WD ones. the rear is the exact opposite, and by quite a bit, because the mounting point on the trailing arm is quite a bit lower. even though the FWD ride height is lower, the FWD rear struts are noticeably longer than the 4WD ones. that said, if you're planning on converting, get what you want to have after the conversion, which would presumably be all 4WD parts (a pair of FWD rear struts would give you about 1.5-2" of lift in the rear.....), and rock them with the FWD stuff.

I am not a carb guy. it's no mystery..... But, the wiring is a bit complex, but once it's done, it's done. no messing with a carb to get it tuned right. Whichever sounds more up your alley Carb: modifying/fabricating the intake manifold to accept a carb, sourcing/installing a distributor (not exactly common), sourcing/installing a carb of suitable size, modifying throttle cable bracketry, and tuning. FI: stripping the wiring harness, replacing the fuel pump and a little fuel line (IMHO, no need to upgrade the whole system. just the rubber lines and clamps on the high-pressure side), and turn the key. after a few minutes, the stock ECU will automatically have it tuned perfectly.

I went to advance auto parts, and bought whatever generic 10" radiator fan they had on the shelf. cost about $50. NOTE: do NOT use the included zip-tie-looking things that pull through the radiator fins to mount them. the vibration from the fan transmitted to the radiator core will cause early failure. I then went to Home Depot. and bought a couple chunks of 1"x1/8" aluminum. cut them to the height of the radiator. drilled a hole in each end, and then matching holes in the metal bracket at the top and bottom of the radiator. drilled 2 holes in the middle of them, and zip-tied the fan to the aluminum. you'll want to test fit all this off the car, to get your spacing right, but it works wonderfully. no pictures of this on a subaru, (I did it on my loyale, and the '86 GL that I did last summer), but I did it on my 4Runner this spring. same idea, but left it as a puller fan: Also, it should be noted. I drive my loyale in town, almost all the time. rarely above 45mph. but never in stopped traffic, other than the occasional stop-light wait. the controller module that I bought with the fan became immensely corroded (huh, only about 2 feet of wire to the temp sensor on the radiator, but not water-proof.....ugh), and failed. the fan didn't work for months. car never overheated. So the fan really isn't needed except on the hottest days, and under ~15mph for more than about 10 minutes. it doesn't have to be much.

"can't" isn't quite true. but it would be an enormous pain!!

meh, the tires will spin before the tranny breaks a standard EJ22 on stock-sized tires in FWD gets a little hairy, lots of wheel spin. But yea, you should be able to do it. you'll need an adapter plate, just like a 4WD. IIRC FWD clutch discs have different splines than 4WD, so you're options on a clutch will be drastically limited. but you *might* be able to get a good pressure plate for a 4WD EA82t or XT6, and put a FWD disc in there.

I found a deepwell socket that was about 2mm wider than the XT6 knuckle. and used a hydraulic press to force it into the brackets on the impreza struts. only took me about 15 minutes a side. I used the XT6 bolts though, makes camber kind of a shot in the dark.....I had planned on putting EJ knuckles on it, before some broad totalled my baby

either way. cut it off, and it'll throw a CEL code. or hook it up to the sensor on the clutch pedal, and it won't. I didn't notice a difference in how either EJ-swapped EA82 ran with or without that.

lots of new stuff (core supports, roof skin, fenders, bumper hood, a door and a bunch of glass), some bondo, paint, and lots of elbow grease...... just in time for Ojibwe Forests Rally next weekend

I sold my '88 N/A EA82 wagon with a 4" AA lift and pugs for $1600 on ebay a few years ago. That's probably your best bet if you want to actually get what it's worth.

ECU is identical. there's a pin that tells it whether it's connected to an auto or manual, the configuration of this wire effects how it reacts to neutral switch signals. which is minimal. don't worry about it, worst case scenario is pretty much just an extra check engine light code.

ah, yea, I suppose you get more movement wheelin. you might be able to use an XT bracket with the standard EA82 rod with the lift. the link worked when it was relevant. now I can't edit the original post. it's posted many many many other places.

nope, because I actually read the thread instead of just clicking the link in the first post. pitch stoppers are overrated. haven't had one in my loyale since day 1. 40k+ miles, no problems.

hehe, thanks so that is a whole EJ rear suspension setup in there, huh. F#$%in awesome!!!!

no diagrams. I just use stock FSMs. it's not very easy to describe, and an in-depth write-up would take a lot of work, and would leave little guarantee that it would function in the end. not worth it, IMHO. tom is, or works for, (I'm not sure which) http://www.allwelldrive.net

I wouldn't recognize gen 1 rear suspension if I tripped over it.....is that stock gen 1 lateral links and such? or is that a whole EJ crossmember? either way.....hot!