Numbchux

yep, pretty much. my XT6 is an Auto. I have no plans to change that, it's a great trans for daily driving, and even for more than a little screwing around. in the next month or so it'll be getting a rear LSD and center diff lock mod.

funny wagon looks funny swapping back to 4-lug. got the 3.9 rear end in, and 4-lug drums back on. obviously the gear ratios and tires don't match, so I left the rear axles out and locked the center, so it'll be FWD until I get the new engine/trans and front suspension swapped back. took a picture of the miata shocks/coilover springs compared to the stock rear stuff: car handles pretty goofy now....front sway bar is disconnected, turbo sedan rear bar. 250lb/in springs in the front, stock in the rear. RS 2-piston front brakes, GL drum brakes in the rear. 205/65r15 blizzaks on the front, 185/70r13 POS tires in the rear..... also improved my work conditions. went to Northern tool and grabbed this 10'x20' canopy on sale: and the parts car making it possible:

I was looking into this as I wanted to install a quick ratio Q-rack in my loyale. an EJ-series subaru steering rack will fit, but some modifications will need to be made to clear the fluid lines, and make sure the steering shaft comes out at the correct angle. also, EJ cars have a wider track than Ea82s. so the inner tie rods are a bit longer. you may want to swap your EA82 rods on there.

SPFI pump is plenty, assuming it's working . so check that. if you un-plugged your IAC and MAF, and got no change, those are not your issue. constant flashing CEL (while read connectors connected) means you have no codes. I wire the fuel relay power through the harness so the relay gets power straight from the battery, and is switched from the ECU. if the rest of the EJ harness is powered, the fuel pump *should* be as well. my next step (after fuel pump) would be to check the TPS. grab a multimeter and start testing the voltage coming off of it at different throttle levels. after that, I'd put the exhaust and 02 on there. it's gotta happen, and it can't hurt.....

that's for the HVAC control. not sure what the point of the canister is, but you need to hook that line up to a vacuum source on your EJ22 in order to select from heat, defrost, etc. code 12 is indeed for the starter switch. if this is not hooked up, it will not effect how the car runs once started. but it will make it very difficult to start in the cold (I daily drove my car for a year without it. battery died many times trying to crank it. but once it fired, it would run wonderfully). it is possible that it's getting 12v all the time, effectively leaving the choke on....this could make the engine stumble. I marked the starter signal wire (red with yellow stripe). make sure that's getting 12v only while cranking. There are a few wires going to the starter, a large one going from the solenoid to the + battery terminal, a large one going from the bracket to ground, and a smaller one going to a tab on the back of the solenoid (this is what mellow65 is referring to). Anywhere between that tab and the ignition switch will give you the signal you need. it does sound like a major post-maf air leak. all PCV and IAC lines connected? try un-plugging the MAF and IAC valves. this should throw it into a default mode that would allow it to run well. but I'd check into that starter signal first.

no. IIRC rex's use 4x114

an 02 sensor won't prevent it from idling. MAF will usually make it idle alright, but stumble and die when you open the throttle. have you checked for any codes yet? plug the black connectors together and the CEL will flash. should tell if/what is up.

huh....weird. I'll see if I can find some better diagrams to post....

ignition and fuel relays. pretty important where did you get the switched 12v from the EA harness? right at the switch like I suggested? did you make sure it's still got a good connection to all 3 wires (from the switch, to the EJ harness, to the rest of the EA harness)? I don't think I have a picture of an unwrapped, finished harness. but there aren't a whole lot of wires. probably 20 or so going up the fender to the engine harness, and 10-15 across the firewall (Crank/Cam sensor, knock, 02, ignitor, MAF).

fan speed issue is because of broken resistors in the resistor pack (bolted to the blower box under the glove box). This is very common....I found a new resistor pack on ebay a while ago for a reasonable price....but I'm sure it'll fail soon as well. Someone had a write-up years ago about soldering in some better resistors that don't heat up and fail as easily. the other is a vacuum issue. start by tracing the lines in the engine bay (as crazyman suggested). it's not uncommon for that line to slip off the intake manifold. There's a little metal guard over the lines to prevent pinching...so that probably isn't your problem. if you know you're getting vacuum to the switch, it could be the switch itself. it's a fairly simple mechanism, with little sliding plastic pieces, if these don't seal (there's some sort of grease on there that helps...but it seems that it usually dries up), you'll have problems. I tried a few different switches, with no luck.....so I did this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66673 that was 3 years ago. still running it like that. always just on Heat and Defrost. which works fine. I think I'll try the switch from my parts car in it before I sell it though.

haha, yep! That's the SlowTi . looks like you were expecting it to be faster :-\ I just realized I forgot to update this thread.....hehe....oops. well, being that we were in service all day, both days, we didn't see much action. this was about as exciting as it got: As a team though, we did pretty well. Friday was a little worrysome as Carl did get stuck for a while. just slid out of the center of the road and got hung up. sweep was able to push them out by hand.....Luckily they didn't take the time card so we didn't DNF. but, dead last of the finishers.... Saturday, however, went very very well. Carl and Dave kept bringing the car in in one pice, and it was obvious they were having a good time. the jitters from the roll in July and the little off at Ojibwe were gone, and they were back in the groove. We placed 16th of 20 finishers in the regional rally that day, but only a couple minutes behind Mason Moyle, our major Open Light rival this year. The important part, however, is they finished. Which means we now have enough coefficients that the Novice Rally America license is no longer necessary. so....the Open class build begins. shooting for 300awhp and 380-400tq for next year. we made it onto the subaru rally site! http://rally.subaru.com/event_2009_lspr_gallery.html some in-car footage: Herman [YOUTUBE]JOjLr2qqffQ[/YOUTUBE] Delaware 3 sorry about the buzz in the sound - we were getting feedback off the power inverter in the intercom system. [YOUTUBE]kwqExL3ga4g[/YOUTUBE] Jerry got a couple good shots of the car: his gallery: http://www.comicozzie.com/gallery2/v/2009/LS09/

you say you're not getting any lights? Is everything on that should be when the key is "on" (dash, headlights, HVAC, etc.)?

anything fuel injected will be fine. I just used the stock pump in my loyale (already SPFI). in the '86 I did last summer, I found a pump for an early '90s Ford Grand Squire (crown vic wagon). it was inline, and had the same sized fittings as the subaru. I found a psi rating for them, and it was perfect, and assumed that the cfm would be enough being that it's designed for a 302 V8. anyway, I got one on ebay for like $30!

I've never done permanent damage to a master cylinder, and I almost never remember to pull the cap off the reservoir.... did you bleed all 4 calipers? did you do it in the right order (LR, RF, RR, LF)? soft pedal is usually a result of an air bubble.

yea, it can stick. a screwdriver to pry it a bit, or some taps with a hammer (don't wail on it, there are breakable things nearby.....) usually do the trick. but yea, if you've got that lower 14mm bolt out of the caliper, it should come loose. just a matter of encouraging it to do so.

bottom bolt off the caliper, then swing the caliper up and slide it off the upper pin. then 2 17mm bolts to remove the caliper bracket from the knuckle so you can get the rotor/hub off.

the old "measure the string" trick might not work.....I've heard that that's too short to look up on most listings..... but here's a sweet belt-lookup chart: http://www.mvreader.com/multiview/dayco/*********imPolyCogBeltsSearch.php?l=&*********imPolyCogBelts=1&*********imPolyCogBeltsSearch=1&partNumber=5050650&metricPartNumber=&beltLength=&numRibs=&*********imPolyCogBeltsSearch.x=21&*********imPolyCogBeltsSearch.y=5

the part of the harness that went through the firewall on the legacy, bring that up through the hole behind the strut tower (crank/cam sensors, 02, MAF, ignitor). then they'll be plenty long enough. that's correct, that's the plugs right on the gauge cluster. Came from a Chilton's manual, but the legacy diagrams in that manual are identical to the FSM stuff....

pull your gauge cluster out. you should be able to find most of the wires you need there with this diagram: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/Loyale%20Instrument%20Panel%20Wiring.pdf and get the 12v switched and starter signal right from the ignition switch. I didn't modify the lengths at all, so there should be enough to get it under the dash pretty well. easiest way is to separate it into the 2 halves (pull the SMJ apart, big square one with the bolt through it), and then re-assemble once it's all under the dash.

well, the heads/intake have to match each other, as well as the wiring/ECU. so if you sent me 2.2 wiring, it won't work with that combo. 2.2 block with 2.5 heads would drop your compression. probably to something around 8.7-9.0:1. which means a drop in power, but perfect for a turbo. now. doing the exact opposite (2.5 bottom end with 2.2 heads) bumps your compression up. means you have to run higher octane fuel to prevent DET, but the torque curve is pretty sweet.

I absolutely need a passenger side fender and headlight. but would be up for a new-style bumper, hood and other fender as well, depending on price/condition.

I think the maplight only needs the one wire (power wire, grounded through the mount). wouldn't need to get that off a specific donor car. just string a wire down there and give it some power....or go back to the dome light and grab the 12v constant there.

I have no shame. and my projects need money

that's Huck. my wagon was known as the Frankenwagon for many years. did you see how the rust was on any of the XTs? specifically either (looks like there might be 2...) of the silver ones? I really need to call that guy to see what he wants for some XT body parts. I really need to get mine up and running ASAP.

not local...but it'll get done right! http://www.numbchuxconversions.com