Numbchux

yep, the XT6 one is slightly thinner to reduce weight (I would guess to counteract the extra rotating mass in the larger engine, than an actual performance thing). XT6 and standard EA82 clutches are interchangeable. but the XT6 uses a stronger pressure plate. you'll definitely want the '6 one to hold up to the torque of an EJ motor.

that's more or less how it's done. Pretty hard to tell you specifically how that kit was designed to work. But as baccaruda said, post up a nice, big picture of all the parts, and those of us who have installed a few lifts can probably identify how it's done and give you some pointers.

I have seen an EA82 shock blow on stock springs. and I destroyed all 4 in my wagon. although I had 500lb/in springs on it, and it was lowered enough that I would still occasionally bottom them out anyway, when I had that stock one blow, I got a pair of Monroe shocks at NAPA, they were about $100 or so, which was a bit more than I wanted to pay for monroes, but I needed them ASAP (I think they could get them the next day). when I bought new shocks for my XT6 (when I dumped the air), I got KYB GR2s. I got both rear ones for like $80 shipped on ebay. I really like the way they ride...just go onto KYB.com and find the part for your car, and then do a search on ebay motors for that part number (don't forget to check the "include item description in search" box), there's usually a few ebay stores with them for a decent price. and then, yea, Rockauto is probably your best bet for cheap brake hardware.

not quite, I'm a few hours north. my parents live in the cities....but nobody home this week. I don't know of anybody who might have something. Whereabouts in town are you at? I'll see if I can't find someone who would be willing to have them shipped to them.

auto transmission control unit (TCU). unless you're re-using the auto trans, you won't need it.

My dad bought a bunch of plastic ones at menards for like a dollar each, and screwed them to his legacy in about 8 places. door panels, dash.....the man likes his cupholders

wow....I just did something very inappropriate awesome!

yep, I do that too. My dad used to have a cupholder on the other side of the ebrake lever, but when I got the car, I swapped it to D/R, and now there isn't room anymore. I've often thought about putting the cupholder from an early legacy (slide-out unit much like you've got there) in the slot under my CD player, but I never got around to it. My '87 Toyota 4Runner doesn't have a cupholder anywhere either. as of next weekend, I'll officially own 4 cars, with zero cupholders between them .

yep, canoes, bikes, kayaks, ladders, lumber......roof rack on the loyale has hauled many things!

there's always a bunch on ebay. they seem specific to EA82s and XTs, I don't think they list any other application. FYI, if you look at the installation instructions, the ones that say specifically '87+ bolt to the bumper, and the ones that are good from '85-'94 don't. Here's the XT version. says it's good for 2000lbs and 200lbs tongue weight: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-XT-Coupe-X-T-6-87-91-trailer-towing-hitch_W0QQitemZ120468335602QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item1c0c78ebf2&_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116

all our FT4WD DRs have a 1.19:1. fixed That's the point I was trying to make. the internals aren't any different than the stuff we have. Assembling a tranny with USDM parts and the same internals as an EJ D/R is possible, but it'll have an EA82 bellhousing, which is fine for most uses. I bought my EJ D/R for street use, so I could have a motor putting out 200 lb/ft (and a not-custom, affordable clutch that can hold it), awesome short gearing for AutoX, and then drop it in hi range for the freeway home.

it's a big project, and you might need a press. so grabbing a trailing arm at a yard is not a bad idea. but just put a new bearing in it before you proceed. also, you might want to make sure you can get those pivot bolts out. They can be a pain!! I was able to get them loose on my XT6 in the car, but I had to drop the whole crossmember on my loyale so I could get enough room to pry on them. I wouldn't blame the failure on the dust shield. I don't think I've ever had them on the loyale...just make sure you've got good seals.

It's fairly straightforward. The hardest part is separating the engine and trans. Best way that I've found, is to lift the engine with your hoist, and once the engine mounts are clear of the crossmember, put a jack under the front of the transmission to hold it at that angle. Then unbolt the 2 and start yanking. Feel free to pull on the motor quite a bit, wiggle it back and forth a bit, play with the height of your hoist, to get just the right angle. But DON'T pry on the bellhousing. as tempting as it might be....it'll only make things worse (I've heard of people breaking chunks out of the bellhousing ). Beyond that, just remember to quadruple check that you have everything disconnected, and keep an eye on it as you start lifting. Remember, the definition of an engine hoist: "A large, usually hydraulic, piece of equipment that tests the tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect"

yea, the center diff is no different than a single-range 5MT. although kiwishooter has mentioned something about an EJ with a locking center. I've never heard of this, and it doesn't sound like Phizinza has either. If he has found some other trim level that has a locker, it's likely the FT4WD center just like any RX/XT6/etc.

^agreed. I was pretty shocked at his refusal to find out what it is that he's selling.

no. the ONLY thing that is different is the bell housing. period. you can put 4.111s in an EA D/R, but you have to use the EJ center diff. from what it sounds, the EJ dual range with center diff lock likely has the 3.7 just like the RX trans. my EJ D/R has a 3.90 and a VLSD just like any other EJ AWD trans, no locker.

Sounds like a good plan. But do be careful, as mentioned, obviously I don't know your son at all...But I can offer some insight from my own childhood. I was a kid like that, capable of As and Bs, and my parents knew it. But I didn't care, and I did less and less homework from about 7th grade on. I graduated in the bottom 10% of my class (still with a high-"C" average). part of my motivation troubles was from my parents. they were so busy encouraging me to get As and Bs, that a C was a negative thing. And if I actually did buckle down, work my butt off, and still end up with a C, I'd get scolded and therefore discouraged. perfect example was my first semester in college. I took 19.5 credits, half of them in music (many .5 credit classes that take up more time than a 3 credit geology class :-\), I didn't have a car, so I rode the bus or my bike. I spent 10-12 hours a day on campus, I worked like crazy, But I didn't do perfectly. I took a report card that I was genuinely proud on, Lied to make it look better, and the only thing my parents had to say about it was "only a B- in Geology? What's up with that?". I was absolutely crushed. Now, I'm not blaming them, I know it was also my fault. But at a time in my life where I was really having trouble motivating myself to be there (I really only went to college because I was told to) that didn't help. I floundered for a couple more years, and eventually dropped out, with almost nothing to show for it. What I'm trying to say, is be careful to keep the goal attainable, or it could turn into a negative. If he feels like he works hard, and just misses it, it could be very discouraging. So, maybe set a few goals. Tell him that if he maintains a C average for the next couple years, that brat will be his. But that if he gets a B this year, he'll be able to start working on it next summer. And maybe something so that every A will earn him something extra. Maybe set smaller goals, that if he has a major assignment, and gets it done early (which would mean he's got a better chance of doing it well), you can help plan out what you need/want to do with the car. Definitely keep it in sight, or it might be forgotten.

The only thing the EJ dual-range offers that you can't have here, is the bellhousing. It's just as possible to make a 1.59:1 - 4.111 trans with parts available here in the us, but you to use the VLSD center instead of the FT4WD locker and an adapter plate.

Yes. but I think there's clearance issues with the ring gear. I know the 4.111 ring has to be machined a bit to clear the 1.59, I don't remember if the 3.90 does. You might look up Phizinza's old build thread for his Brumby. He did a hybrid EJ D/R trans, and used the 1.59. but I don't remember what axle ratio he used. but otherwise, yea.

the one I have, out of a '92 Liberty GX has a 1.196:1 low range, 3.9:1 axle ratios, a VLSD center diff and the same 1-5 gears as a standard AWD legacy 5MT (not 100% sure on this, might have the shorter gears like the EA82t gearboxes)

another link that might help. This is the page I send out with the harnesses that I do. http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/Harness%20info.pdf Strip the EJ harness down to just engine-control stuff, and then splice those wires in wherever you can grab them. most of them can be found behind the gauge cluster, so I pull that out, and splice as needed.

another vote for CV joint. if the outer joint binds up, it'll pull the wheel off to one side for just a moment. IIRC, it's the side that the wheel is pulling away from. i.e. left joint causes a pull to the right.

engine wiring and ECU pinouts here: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/downloads.htm

possible? certainly. But you'll be cutting up the back end of the car, and custom fabricating the entire suspension. EJ-series rear suspension is entirely different. so you'd be replacing the crossmember, diff mount, suspension arms, fabricating mounts for the strut tops (which effect the alignment, so would have to be perfectly placed). the front isn't too hard. ream out the ball joint hole, and you're set to go. But the back is extremely difficult. Really, if you get your hands on a set of XT6 rear hubs. you can use the EJ-series brakes on the EA82 trailing arms. Your best bet is to see if anyone will ship you the hubs from here in the US. otherwise, http://www.crossbredperformance.com makes an awesome kit for just that purpose.

I'm sorry man, I can't ignore this. I know there are some great setups, and yours is definitely one of the best! But more fuel does not mean more power. the stock ECU already runs it on the rich side of stoich anyway (when my wideband was working, I was seeing 10-11:1 at high-rpm and WOT), and is capable of compensating for 4-5 psi of boost without any other mods. You might be putting out great power, but I would be extremely impressed if you were making as much as the stock FI. and an EA subaru with an EJ22 should get WAAAYYYYY better mileage than a baja, to the tune of 30-32mpg on the highway. Because an EJ ECU will turn the injectors off while coasting, a carb cannot do that. the CEL doesn't effect reliability, even if it is on for something dumb like a neutral switch. It does take some work to clear all the codes, but it's entirely possible. and is really nice for diagnostics should something go wrong. I would love to see a couple EJ swaps, with the same sized tires and the same trannies go up on a dyno. one with FI and one carbed. We can argue this stuff until we're blue in the face, but we need some concrete numbers. And I'd be willing to bet the FI comes out on top! But, in the end, it's comparable. even if one puts out a little more power than the other, or a little better mileage, they're still worlds better than an EA82, and even the EA81. Just go with what you know......I wouldn't know where to start with a carb. My opinion towards carbs is the same as towards drum brakes. if I have to remove them, they're not going back on. I'm swapping to discs!