Numbchux

the one I have, out of a '92 Liberty GX has a 1.196:1 low range, 3.9:1 axle ratios, a VLSD center diff and the same 1-5 gears as a standard AWD legacy 5MT (not 100% sure on this, might have the shorter gears like the EA82t gearboxes)

another link that might help. This is the page I send out with the harnesses that I do. http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/Harness%20info.pdf Strip the EJ harness down to just engine-control stuff, and then splice those wires in wherever you can grab them. most of them can be found behind the gauge cluster, so I pull that out, and splice as needed.

another vote for CV joint. if the outer joint binds up, it'll pull the wheel off to one side for just a moment. IIRC, it's the side that the wheel is pulling away from. i.e. left joint causes a pull to the right.

engine wiring and ECU pinouts here: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/downloads.htm

possible? certainly. But you'll be cutting up the back end of the car, and custom fabricating the entire suspension. EJ-series rear suspension is entirely different. so you'd be replacing the crossmember, diff mount, suspension arms, fabricating mounts for the strut tops (which effect the alignment, so would have to be perfectly placed). the front isn't too hard. ream out the ball joint hole, and you're set to go. But the back is extremely difficult. Really, if you get your hands on a set of XT6 rear hubs. you can use the EJ-series brakes on the EA82 trailing arms. Your best bet is to see if anyone will ship you the hubs from here in the US. otherwise, http://www.crossbredperformance.com makes an awesome kit for just that purpose.

I'm sorry man, I can't ignore this. I know there are some great setups, and yours is definitely one of the best! But more fuel does not mean more power. the stock ECU already runs it on the rich side of stoich anyway (when my wideband was working, I was seeing 10-11:1 at high-rpm and WOT), and is capable of compensating for 4-5 psi of boost without any other mods. You might be putting out great power, but I would be extremely impressed if you were making as much as the stock FI. and an EA subaru with an EJ22 should get WAAAYYYYY better mileage than a baja, to the tune of 30-32mpg on the highway. Because an EJ ECU will turn the injectors off while coasting, a carb cannot do that. the CEL doesn't effect reliability, even if it is on for something dumb like a neutral switch. It does take some work to clear all the codes, but it's entirely possible. and is really nice for diagnostics should something go wrong. I would love to see a couple EJ swaps, with the same sized tires and the same trannies go up on a dyno. one with FI and one carbed. We can argue this stuff until we're blue in the face, but we need some concrete numbers. And I'd be willing to bet the FI comes out on top! But, in the end, it's comparable. even if one puts out a little more power than the other, or a little better mileage, they're still worlds better than an EA82, and even the EA81. Just go with what you know......I wouldn't know where to start with a carb. My opinion towards carbs is the same as towards drum brakes. if I have to remove them, they're not going back on. I'm swapping to discs!

WJM did it years ago. search for posts from him. IIRC it was way too much for the stock computer. but he might have used them when he converted to Megasquirt.

something's missing here: oh yea.......there it is:

My car used to be FWD, so there was no carrier bearing mount. I fabricated one, but the bearing/ujoints failed after about 30k miles. So I grabbed one off an EA81 wagon, had it lengthened 9" (IIRC), and have been using it ever since. it does rub on the mounting bolts for my ebrake handle and such (stick out further than stock....) when really hammering on it, but I think if my rear diff bushing wasn't shot, that wouldn't be a problem.

Perfect!! and good news too

got it home yesterday, still fighting with the insurance company, ugh. But I noticed (I don't know how I overlooked it...) some more damage on the rear quarter. the other car must have spun after the initial impact and hit the rear quarter as well. took the fenders, bumper, and headlights off. it looks fixable. I think I'm just going to attach a big ol' D ring to the bumper mount, and with the help of my 4runner and a chain, give it a good yank in the opposite direction from the impact. only noticeable damage to the frame is right under the airbox mount. there's a small kink. But the front end is definitely pushed off to the side. somehow the washer tank with only minor bumps and bruises. Intake silencer.....not so much

anyone? for a first-gen legacy ('93 IIRC). I have wiring diagrams, but I would like to see the pinout voltage chart.....

yea, I wanted to put a new bearing in it.....so I stalled, and stalled.......and stalled some more. glad I didn't put it in! and yea, the frame is definitely tweaked. But, it looks like it's all in front of the crossmember, so probably won't effect suspension geometry. I'll use my 4runner and a chain to give it a yank the other way, throw some crappy body panels on it, and keep drivin it. got new plans for the supercharged 22e

Talked to the insurance adjuster today, lots of legalese....but it sounds like if the car was not reported stolen (I don't know one way or the other....), the insurance company is required to pay. They are going to do some investigating into the situation. tomorrow I will call the insurance company back and inform them of this, and that I have every intention of hiring an attorney should this be the case. It also sounds like I'm entitled to more compensation, should it come to a lawsuit, since I've been without a car for a month and counting. I'm just lucky I happen to have another driveable vehicle....most people would have been SOL! Also had the car towed home. Took a closer look, and found more damage. looks like in the impact, the other car spun around and hit the rear quarter on my car, as that's dented in. the wheel/suspension may have taken a hit as well. luckily I had intended on replacing that triling arm anyway (I bent the stock one last winter on a curb, and have one with no sway bar mounts in it now....). Then I bent the headlight out enough to get the hood open, and as soon as I released the latch, the front of the hood shifted to the passenger side ~1/4". So the whole front end is tweaked.....ugh. BUT, I've got a spare axle and control arm/leading rod, so I should be able to fix the mechanical stuff pretty easily..... pictures to come.

Quite to the contrary....I'm sure it is NOT too late, which is why I'm getting the ball rolling. although, I hadn't planned on suing the company........just the other driver. I'll probably have more luck getting my $$ out of a nationwide company than some lady that lives 2 blocks from me (not a good neighborhood!) not much to happen on the weekend as far as legal steps are concerned.....but monday will bring more phone calling.

yea, the insurance company isn't in the clear, I'm making phone calls like mad lately......ugh... anyway, talked to the MN Insurance Commissioner, and they're going to put pressure on the company, but I might have to talk to the WA state one as the agent is based out there. I have called the company stating that if the car wasn't reported stolen, even though it received substantial damage, obviously she had permission. they talked me in circles for awhile, until I gave up. I have decided to get the ball rolling on the lawsuit, though, even though it might not end that way. Maybe if she gets served, she'll realize I'm getting paid, and I don't care who's pocket it comes out of, she'll do the right thing and contact the insurance company.

depends if you want the dash and stuff behind it to be usable. but yea, you're looking at about 3-5 hours. it's a project.

I don't remember a gray one. that brown thing is actually 2 diodes. the WR and RL wires are for the A/C or something......I cut the wires off short. the other 2 are for the self-shutoff control. Y gets power while the key is on, Lg to the ECU/Main relay. you can cut it out, just send the source straight to the relay, that's how I set it up in my Loyale, but I prefer leaving it as it was designed, and every harness I've done since uses it.

just the bulkhead harness. behind the dash/HVAC ducting, in the driver's side fender etc. Don't need the engine harness itself (under the intake mani). I've got before/after pics of one on my website: http://numbchuxconversions.com/services.htm

don't sweat it.....took me awhile to figure that out too

that is some nasty rust, but workable. you'd need to reinforce the frame rails before doing much with them. very cool, but definitely asking too much. I wouldn't pay more than 1500 for the pair. don't bother on the justy.

Got a letter from the insurance company yesterday. Because the woman who was driving wasn't the owner or policy holder, and they haven't contacted the insurance company, they're assuming that she didn't have permission to drive the car, and as a result are "respectfully denying payment" on the claim. that all took long enough that I need to act very soon to sue her. So I need to raise some money.....so I'm offering a discount on EJ swap harnesses: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=103170

that's what I mean. if the EA81 stuff works in my loyale......I bet it would work better in a gen 1 either way, you wouldn't be the first to cut some length out of an EJ rod end. WJM cut an inch or so out of his when he did the 5-lug on his RX.

To keep this short.....My XT6 was in a major accident. just got a letter from the insurance company saying that they found a loophole, and won't be covering it (the woman who was driving didn't own the car or insurance policy....). So my only choice is to sue her. But it needs to happen next week, and costs money. SO. If the payment is in my possession (check in my hands or $$$ in my paypal acct) by Monday, September 7th, at the latest, I will accept $150 for an EJ22 swap harness. That's right, $100 off my regular price!!!! If you're not quite ready to send a donor harness, I will reserve your spot at the top of the list (well...right after the other 2 I'm working on, which will hopefully be out of here by next week sometime anyway), get it done as quickly as I can once I do receive it, and will not charge you a penny more! Help me save my XT6! I'm only looking for two people to do this, so contact me ASAP.

you can't loosen the rod ends enough to get the EA81 ones to work? that's what I'm running on my loyale, works great. IIRC XT6 ones are somewhere between the EA81 and EJ rod ends in length, and use the larger taper stud.