Numbchux

it's a big project, and you might need a press. so grabbing a trailing arm at a yard is not a bad idea. but just put a new bearing in it before you proceed. also, you might want to make sure you can get those pivot bolts out. They can be a pain!! I was able to get them loose on my XT6 in the car, but I had to drop the whole crossmember on my loyale so I could get enough room to pry on them. I wouldn't blame the failure on the dust shield. I don't think I've ever had them on the loyale...just make sure you've got good seals.

It's fairly straightforward. The hardest part is separating the engine and trans. Best way that I've found, is to lift the engine with your hoist, and once the engine mounts are clear of the crossmember, put a jack under the front of the transmission to hold it at that angle. Then unbolt the 2 and start yanking. Feel free to pull on the motor quite a bit, wiggle it back and forth a bit, play with the height of your hoist, to get just the right angle. But DON'T pry on the bellhousing. as tempting as it might be....it'll only make things worse (I've heard of people breaking chunks out of the bellhousing ). Beyond that, just remember to quadruple check that you have everything disconnected, and keep an eye on it as you start lifting. Remember, the definition of an engine hoist: "A large, usually hydraulic, piece of equipment that tests the tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect"

yea, the center diff is no different than a single-range 5MT. although kiwishooter has mentioned something about an EJ with a locking center. I've never heard of this, and it doesn't sound like Phizinza has either. If he has found some other trim level that has a locker, it's likely the FT4WD center just like any RX/XT6/etc.

^agreed. I was pretty shocked at his refusal to find out what it is that he's selling.

no. the ONLY thing that is different is the bell housing. period. you can put 4.111s in an EA D/R, but you have to use the EJ center diff. from what it sounds, the EJ dual range with center diff lock likely has the 3.7 just like the RX trans. my EJ D/R has a 3.90 and a VLSD just like any other EJ AWD trans, no locker.

Sounds like a good plan. But do be careful, as mentioned, obviously I don't know your son at all...But I can offer some insight from my own childhood. I was a kid like that, capable of As and Bs, and my parents knew it. But I didn't care, and I did less and less homework from about 7th grade on. I graduated in the bottom 10% of my class (still with a high-"C" average). part of my motivation troubles was from my parents. they were so busy encouraging me to get As and Bs, that a C was a negative thing. And if I actually did buckle down, work my butt off, and still end up with a C, I'd get scolded and therefore discouraged. perfect example was my first semester in college. I took 19.5 credits, half of them in music (many .5 credit classes that take up more time than a 3 credit geology class :-\), I didn't have a car, so I rode the bus or my bike. I spent 10-12 hours a day on campus, I worked like crazy, But I didn't do perfectly. I took a report card that I was genuinely proud on, Lied to make it look better, and the only thing my parents had to say about it was "only a B- in Geology? What's up with that?". I was absolutely crushed. Now, I'm not blaming them, I know it was also my fault. But at a time in my life where I was really having trouble motivating myself to be there (I really only went to college because I was told to) that didn't help. I floundered for a couple more years, and eventually dropped out, with almost nothing to show for it. What I'm trying to say, is be careful to keep the goal attainable, or it could turn into a negative. If he feels like he works hard, and just misses it, it could be very discouraging. So, maybe set a few goals. Tell him that if he maintains a C average for the next couple years, that brat will be his. But that if he gets a B this year, he'll be able to start working on it next summer. And maybe something so that every A will earn him something extra. Maybe set smaller goals, that if he has a major assignment, and gets it done early (which would mean he's got a better chance of doing it well), you can help plan out what you need/want to do with the car. Definitely keep it in sight, or it might be forgotten.

The only thing the EJ dual-range offers that you can't have here, is the bellhousing. It's just as possible to make a 1.59:1 - 4.111 trans with parts available here in the us, but you to use the VLSD center instead of the FT4WD locker and an adapter plate.

Yes. but I think there's clearance issues with the ring gear. I know the 4.111 ring has to be machined a bit to clear the 1.59, I don't remember if the 3.90 does. You might look up Phizinza's old build thread for his Brumby. He did a hybrid EJ D/R trans, and used the 1.59. but I don't remember what axle ratio he used. but otherwise, yea.

the one I have, out of a '92 Liberty GX has a 1.196:1 low range, 3.9:1 axle ratios, a VLSD center diff and the same 1-5 gears as a standard AWD legacy 5MT (not 100% sure on this, might have the shorter gears like the EA82t gearboxes)

another link that might help. This is the page I send out with the harnesses that I do. http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/Harness%20info.pdf Strip the EJ harness down to just engine-control stuff, and then splice those wires in wherever you can grab them. most of them can be found behind the gauge cluster, so I pull that out, and splice as needed.

another vote for CV joint. if the outer joint binds up, it'll pull the wheel off to one side for just a moment. IIRC, it's the side that the wheel is pulling away from. i.e. left joint causes a pull to the right.

engine wiring and ECU pinouts here: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/downloads.htm

possible? certainly. But you'll be cutting up the back end of the car, and custom fabricating the entire suspension. EJ-series rear suspension is entirely different. so you'd be replacing the crossmember, diff mount, suspension arms, fabricating mounts for the strut tops (which effect the alignment, so would have to be perfectly placed). the front isn't too hard. ream out the ball joint hole, and you're set to go. But the back is extremely difficult. Really, if you get your hands on a set of XT6 rear hubs. you can use the EJ-series brakes on the EA82 trailing arms. Your best bet is to see if anyone will ship you the hubs from here in the US. otherwise, http://www.crossbredperformance.com makes an awesome kit for just that purpose.

I'm sorry man, I can't ignore this. I know there are some great setups, and yours is definitely one of the best! But more fuel does not mean more power. the stock ECU already runs it on the rich side of stoich anyway (when my wideband was working, I was seeing 10-11:1 at high-rpm and WOT), and is capable of compensating for 4-5 psi of boost without any other mods. You might be putting out great power, but I would be extremely impressed if you were making as much as the stock FI. and an EA subaru with an EJ22 should get WAAAYYYYY better mileage than a baja, to the tune of 30-32mpg on the highway. Because an EJ ECU will turn the injectors off while coasting, a carb cannot do that. the CEL doesn't effect reliability, even if it is on for something dumb like a neutral switch. It does take some work to clear all the codes, but it's entirely possible. and is really nice for diagnostics should something go wrong. I would love to see a couple EJ swaps, with the same sized tires and the same trannies go up on a dyno. one with FI and one carbed. We can argue this stuff until we're blue in the face, but we need some concrete numbers. And I'd be willing to bet the FI comes out on top! But, in the end, it's comparable. even if one puts out a little more power than the other, or a little better mileage, they're still worlds better than an EA82, and even the EA81. Just go with what you know......I wouldn't know where to start with a carb. My opinion towards carbs is the same as towards drum brakes. if I have to remove them, they're not going back on. I'm swapping to discs!

WJM did it years ago. search for posts from him. IIRC it was way too much for the stock computer. but he might have used them when he converted to Megasquirt.

something's missing here: oh yea.......there it is:

My car used to be FWD, so there was no carrier bearing mount. I fabricated one, but the bearing/ujoints failed after about 30k miles. So I grabbed one off an EA81 wagon, had it lengthened 9" (IIRC), and have been using it ever since. it does rub on the mounting bolts for my ebrake handle and such (stick out further than stock....) when really hammering on it, but I think if my rear diff bushing wasn't shot, that wouldn't be a problem.

Perfect!! and good news too

got it home yesterday, still fighting with the insurance company, ugh. But I noticed (I don't know how I overlooked it...) some more damage on the rear quarter. the other car must have spun after the initial impact and hit the rear quarter as well. took the fenders, bumper, and headlights off. it looks fixable. I think I'm just going to attach a big ol' D ring to the bumper mount, and with the help of my 4runner and a chain, give it a good yank in the opposite direction from the impact. only noticeable damage to the frame is right under the airbox mount. there's a small kink. But the front end is definitely pushed off to the side. somehow the washer tank with only minor bumps and bruises. Intake silencer.....not so much

anyone? for a first-gen legacy ('93 IIRC). I have wiring diagrams, but I would like to see the pinout voltage chart.....

yea, I wanted to put a new bearing in it.....so I stalled, and stalled.......and stalled some more. glad I didn't put it in! and yea, the frame is definitely tweaked. But, it looks like it's all in front of the crossmember, so probably won't effect suspension geometry. I'll use my 4runner and a chain to give it a yank the other way, throw some crappy body panels on it, and keep drivin it. got new plans for the supercharged 22e

Talked to the insurance adjuster today, lots of legalese....but it sounds like if the car was not reported stolen (I don't know one way or the other....), the insurance company is required to pay. They are going to do some investigating into the situation. tomorrow I will call the insurance company back and inform them of this, and that I have every intention of hiring an attorney should this be the case. It also sounds like I'm entitled to more compensation, should it come to a lawsuit, since I've been without a car for a month and counting. I'm just lucky I happen to have another driveable vehicle....most people would have been SOL! Also had the car towed home. Took a closer look, and found more damage. looks like in the impact, the other car spun around and hit the rear quarter on my car, as that's dented in. the wheel/suspension may have taken a hit as well. luckily I had intended on replacing that triling arm anyway (I bent the stock one last winter on a curb, and have one with no sway bar mounts in it now....). Then I bent the headlight out enough to get the hood open, and as soon as I released the latch, the front of the hood shifted to the passenger side ~1/4". So the whole front end is tweaked.....ugh. BUT, I've got a spare axle and control arm/leading rod, so I should be able to fix the mechanical stuff pretty easily..... pictures to come.

Quite to the contrary....I'm sure it is NOT too late, which is why I'm getting the ball rolling. although, I hadn't planned on suing the company........just the other driver. I'll probably have more luck getting my $$ out of a nationwide company than some lady that lives 2 blocks from me (not a good neighborhood!) not much to happen on the weekend as far as legal steps are concerned.....but monday will bring more phone calling.

yea, the insurance company isn't in the clear, I'm making phone calls like mad lately......ugh... anyway, talked to the MN Insurance Commissioner, and they're going to put pressure on the company, but I might have to talk to the WA state one as the agent is based out there. I have called the company stating that if the car wasn't reported stolen, even though it received substantial damage, obviously she had permission. they talked me in circles for awhile, until I gave up. I have decided to get the ball rolling on the lawsuit, though, even though it might not end that way. Maybe if she gets served, she'll realize I'm getting paid, and I don't care who's pocket it comes out of, she'll do the right thing and contact the insurance company.

depends if you want the dash and stuff behind it to be usable. but yea, you're looking at about 3-5 hours. it's a project.