Numbchux

a local guy here in Duluth. '95 Legacy LS. EJ22, OBD II. his description of the initial incident: "I just pulled out of my parking spot when I hit the gas and the car chugged a bit (almost died). Immediately I put it in reverse and backed up were it continued to run really rough. I hit the gas one last time to rev it up and it died. " we spent a couple hours tinkering with it tonight. I'm stuck....so I present our findings to the committee.......hopefully someone else here can get us pointed in the right direction. It cranks over very unevenly...like it doesn't have compression on all cylinders. sounds like an EA82 subaru with a broken driver's side t-belt while cranking. we pulled the end tbelt covers off. the belt looks to be in good shape, and timing is on. Fuel pump is coming on as it should. it sort of fired once, but not enough to start. we borrowed an OBD II reader from Advance auto. 3 codes came up. MAP circuit, misfire cyl 1, and catalyst below efficiency. obviously the catalyst thing isn't anything to worry about. He says the CEL has never flashed while driving, so I'm assuming the misfire code has been a result of the cranking and stuff....since it was running last. so, we un-plugged the MAP (the '86 wagon I swapped last year with a '96 2.2 ran fine for about 1k miles with the MAP un-plugged...just crappy mileage). cranked for a minute. no change. un-plugged the MAF. after cranking for a minute. it started, and idled very smoothly. tried revving it, and it quit immediately. plugged the MAF back in, and it started again, idled very smoothly for awhile longer. but again, quit as soon as the throttle was touched. We tried a number of combinations of the MAF plugged in and not. and were able to get it to run. but as soon as you touch the throttle, it stumbles and quits. Suspecting a bad MAF. we threw both of his (he had a spare) in my car. ran just as it always has. So. it isn't the MAF itself. but when it's unplugged, and the ECU is in limp mode, the problem is lessened. So, what exactly changes when in limp mode? is it just fuel maps that go to default, or does it effect ignition too. my current thoughts are: TPS CAS (either one) fuel pressure regulator

IIRC, JWXs car (possibly formerly WJMs?) just had standard EJ camber plates in it. I know they would fit, but the orientation would be a bit different (not bad, would allow compound adjustment of camber and caster....).

don't need the search function to get a pretty good start. go to the main index of the forum, about halfway down there's a section titled "Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual" (USRM for short). Under that there are a number of sub-forums. click on the last one, titled "Suspension and Steering". there's a great write-up in there to get you started. for more info, go into the Retrofitting section, and search for posts started by user "Poormanzimpreza" (advanced search). He has a great post with a ton of pictures of the different parts (there are actually 2 of them, one with some discussion, but the pictures don't work, and the other with working pictures)

wow, that's way up there! looks like it'll work just fine though. great work.

anything FI should be just fine. using the stock SPFI pump in my loyale with the EJ22. the '86 wagon did this last summer when I first put the EJ22 in it. IAC line wasn't hooked up...so it was getting a ton of un-metered air. it would start and idle for a minute....but if you looked at the throttle, it'd quit.

sounds like you have a post-MAF vacuum leak. most likely a big one....like IAC or PCV lines.

yea, IIRC tim said that the shape/dimensions of the roof was a bit different, so it wasn't a direct fit. hopefully he'll see this and chime in. or just search for his posts. his screen name is chef_tim

they're usually pretty generic. ones for a subaru impreza will work pretty well on an EA82. stock rear springs are 2.5" inner-diameter...so if you get sleeves that use a 2.5" ID spring, they'll fit perfectly with the stock rear tophats. BUT, springs alone are not a good way to lift a subaru. it will just limit (if not eliminate) suspension travel. SJR makes a nice 2" lift kit that will give you the extra ride height, but you won't be any closer to the limit of the shock/strut travel, and using stock spring rates.

I forgot to mention....this car barely has 130k on it

just picked up an '87 wagon for parts. when I first saw it, I thought it looked like it would be a shame to part out, as it had a few rust spots on the body, but not too bad. then I looked underneath.....doesn't look to bad from the side: then..... there's about a foot or more of the frame rail that is entirely gone!!

heh. heh.....yea...except that little thing. don't mind me.

yea, definitely could be from another market. I've never seen one in a junkyard though...so I don't know how common that might be. yea, I suppose there are a lot more N/A 2.0s than I was thinking. but turbo ones are still far more common, in general.

the other advantage to the zuki is it has a reduction in the high-range as well (I think, correct me if I'm wrong....). which is a big help with a little soob 4-cyl and big tires.

correction (in the US anyway), the RX is the only dual-range EA box with a center diff. many turbo EA82s and XT6s had Full-time 4WD with a locking center diff....just no lo range.

exhaust can be re-used. intake cannot. as a rule of thumb.....intake manifold has to match the heads.

yes, definitely do-able. I've got a friend running the opposite in his impreza now, 22 block with 20 heads. but probably not ideal. compression depends on exactly what it is, and what headgasket you use. assuming it's a USDM EJ20, it has to be an EJ205 ('02-'05 WRX), which means the pistons are designed for ~7.7:1 compression. and typically speaking, heads for a larger bore have a large quench volume, which will drop your compression ratio a bunch. I don't remember off the top of my head which engine uses which thickness headgasket, but that's your only chance to recoup some compression. But I think you'll probably end up with a CR of about 7.5:1, if you're lucky, you might be able to bump it up to the stock 7.7ish. in any case, it will definitely need to be forced-induction to have any torque, at all. although the 2.2 heads are SOHC, which are a substantial bottleneck. really, you're going to struggle just to get stock WRX peak power....with a crappier torque curve. you'll also have less displacement, and still an open deck block. Also, a junkyard WRX block......eek. IMHO you'd be better throwing a few psi and some supporting mods at an N/A compression EJ22. this is all just off the top of my head, though. and filling in the blanks as to exactly what you have (MOST EJ22s have 9.5:1, but the newer ones went up to 9.7....so if you're using those heads, you might have a better shot. also, if it's an EJ20 shortblock from another market....things will change. But probably 90% or more of the EJ20s on the planet were turbo. so you'll be looking at pretty low compression).

yep, it's there. I don't think it has a function on carbed cars...but it's there anyway. yea, as far as I know, most EA81s do have it. but I don't have any diagrams for those.

yep. finally got around to scanning the diagram from my chilton's manual. really the only EA82 diagram you need http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/Loyale%20Instrument%20Panel%20Wiring.pdf

not outraged, just confused. it doesn't add up. I was just trying to learn some more about the other markets, and since he couldn't be sure on what he had, I was trying to fill in the blanks. but I throw in the towel, I don't think there will be any more constructive information here.

EDIT: post removed.....too many inconsistencies. no point arguing

double? no. a little bit, yea, but if you can read the diagrams enough to make sort the engine stuff out, the trans isn't much harder. you can buy a whole 2.2l 4EAT legacy for $150 the 3AT isn't a terrible trans, in the grand scheme of things. but if you ever want to go on the freeway, and get decent mileage at it, no. they leave you turning 4k rpms at 70! a 4EAT is designed to let the TC slip a bit, so it's geared very long. once the TC is locked, it'll do 70 at about 2500....

I <3 this plan

I think you might be pushing it a bit there do-able....yes. worth it? no. the bellhousing issue is the same as it is with a manual. adapter plate, and modify the holes in the flex plate. much easier, in fact, as the flexplate is about 1/8th the thickness of a flywheel. but yea, if you're looking for an auto, nab an EJ 4EAT, and a pair of EA82 turbo axles. little more wiring, little modification to the shifter (or switch to the EJ one. it needs to have separate settings for D, 3, 2, and 1. or, live without being able to manually select first....not the end of the world). probably cheaper than the adapter plate. and a muuuuch better trans.

no. XT6 flywheel has the same bolt pattern as the EA82. on the axles. '93 and '94 FWD 5MT imprezas have 23 spline axles. they must be those 2 years ('95 and possibly '96s were still avail as FWD, but listed as using the same part# as AWD), must be FWD, and must be 5MT. the autos use 25 spline, even with a 1.8l FWD. they're kinda rare, but they exist.

superu. the problem is, the EJ D/Rs are not all the same. some have locking centers (this seems to be a japan-specific thing, which means it occasionally made it to NZ. but not OZ), some have VLSD center. And there were many different gearing options. That's why there's different information floating around, and I'm not sure what 1-5 gears mine has. But, what it all boils down to, is if it's gearing you're after. I wouldn't bother. whatever you get, you'll be pulling it apart, and rebuilding it using all USDM internals anyway (1.59:1 low range from an PT4WD EA82 box, 4.111 R&P and center diff from a standard EJ 5MT). You could do all this with an EA82 D/R case and an adapter plate. In my experience, the ONLY reason to get an EJ D/R, is for the clutch. If you're looking to put fairly big power through it, and you want a better clutch for it. That's why I bought the one I have, I had planned to put a supercharged EJ22e in front of it, and I wanted the clutch to hold ~200lb/ft (engine probably wouldn't be putting out quite that much anytime soon....but it's possible). And I wanted the gears for autocrossing. also, there is nothing available in other markets (that I know of....these threads have been no exception), than allow fully lockable center diff with anything other than a 3.9 axle ratio. So if that's a priority to you, you'd pay all that money to import a gearbox, tear it apart and make a hybrid, and still end up with the exact same gearing that a very common EA82 D/R has. You'd just have a better clutch.