Numbchux

the duty cycle only varies the power to the rear. the front still gets 100% power, regardless of what the rear is doing. You're not wrong, just not exactly right . I was just clarifying. saying that it's variable up to 60/40 isn't really true, as it implies that the front gets less power as the rear gets more. which isn't the case. Glad to hear it. I've heard so many descriptions, and "torque splits" and stuff on the internet that is just wrong. I'm glad to hear someone else who I know has torn apart at least as many transmissions as I have agrees

where did you read that? it's a common misconception. but the front gets full power, all the time, regardless of what the rear is doing. it's really like 100/10, and then as the TCU puts more pressure on the transfer clutch, it varies up to about 100/80 (only reason it isn't 100/100, is the solenoid/clutch will still slip unless mechanically modified, they will not hold all the power). if your transfer clutch burns out entirely, you loose the rear drive, but you can still drive around fine. it's FWD, and you might not even notice it until it snows and you're stuck and I am talking about the 4EAT. 3ATs are not full-time. so they're 100/0, push the button and they're 100/80. torque splits really can't be boiled down to just a number ratio. as so many AWD systems have so many variables to how they react. with a mechanical center diff, like in a subaru 5MT AWD or FT4WD system, it really needs to be out of 200, as if one end is stopped, the other spins twice as fast. so a FT4WD system, unlocked, is 100/100, unless one end sees more resistance, and then it changes, all the way to 200/0, with almost no restriction. a VLSD center (EJ AWD 5MT) changes the amount of resistance depending on how much slip has already occurred. so 100/100, one end loose traction, and it goes to 150/50, then the VLSD heats up, and transfers power to the side with more traction, and it goes back towards 100/100.

yea, exhaust flange location and dimensions are the same for all dual-port EJ engines. some of the newer cars use a different oil pan to clear the headers, so you might run into that. but the oil pan is interchangeable too.....so it might be worth swapping to an STi pan (make sure you use a reinforced pickup though!! the stock STi ones are prone to cracking). but since you don't really need it to be smashed under the engine (no turbo), I'd look for something for a 2.5 N/A (like an RS). there are a few options, Borla makes a header that makes for a great sound, and shifts your powerband down lower a bit (better low end torque, but at a sacrifice in scavenging so not quite as much peak hp). There are a couple companies that make equal-length headers for them, with the opposite effect: less rumble, little less low-end torque, more peak hp.

yep, stock pump location in both my swaps. no pitch stopper in either. just pulled the motor out of my wagon. 290k total miles, 60k in the loyale. didn't even have [completely] torn motor mounts. were I to do it again. I would definitely use the SJR adapter plate with the little tabs for the pitch stopper. but if it's not fairly convenient....it's not entirely necessary.

could be. higher-octane fuel burns slower. although, I don't remember which octane tends to be higher. Our fuel is rated as an average of the 2, so your octane rating isn't necessarily comparable to ours.

not really....no. autos are 100% to the front wheels. all the time. period. then they direct power to the back as-needed.

yea, changing the engine isn't going to change anything. if your rack is geared not to have it, you'll be fine. now....the quicker-ratio power steering racks, with no power assist.....that sucks.

just wire it up as-is, and re train your brain. the gauge functions, you can still tell when the car is warming up, up to temperature, and overheating. just in a different place on the gauge. but if you try the resistor, I would love to hear how it goes. mathematically, it should work fine. and doesn't look too hard to do, but I don't remember anyone actually doing it.

yea, 13x4.5 and 4x140 sounds like stock wheel dimensions for any non-justy 4-lug subaru.

yea, you don't have to take apart the input, so if it isn't leaking, I wouldn't bother (taking this apart effects the gear mesh.....I messed with it once, and got it wrong.....eek). side seals are a good idea, but I've re-used without problem. just a thin bead of RTV around the rear cover, and you're good to go. and yea....the correct fluid is a good idea.

welcome to the USMB. if you have a look through this very same section, you'll notice a thread entitled "EJ-EA Power Steering". you'll find the answers you seek there. seriously. it was discussed in depth like 3 days ago. it's barely halfway down the page: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104879

the rear axles aren't one piece through the bearings and hub like the fronts. so if the nut is seized to the hub and such, you can pound the pin out, and slide it off. or, if it's the pin that's seized, you can pound the spindle out with it just like a front axle. getting that nut off is just a matter of having a big enough breaker bar but yea, '85/'86 EA82s have dual-DOJ rear axles that can be disassembled from either end. all others just from the inside. so yea, you could do it lying under the car. but I wouldn't...yuck

nope, the full-time dual-ranges are fairly rare, and only have a 1.2:1 low range. the part time ones are quite common, and have a 1.6:1.

99% of the dual-range trannies in the US are that way. only a handful of them are full-time dual range (locking center diff, no FWD option).

yep, fog lights. that orange one is a dealer-installed one. my '85 had 'em, the lights were smashed, but the button would light up when pushed (as long as the headlights were on).

Must-do? that totally depends on the condition of it. but really, if it ran, you wouldn't HAVE to do anything. I would probably do timing belt, front and rear main seals, cam seals, valve cover gaskets, tbelt pullies, and water pump. as those are the common wear items that are 100x easier to replace with the engine out, than in a car. SOHC spark plugs are easy. 20 minute job, if you're drinkin a beer IIRC, Austin's '94 1.8 imp wagon had a 3.90 5MT.... Wiring is NOT plug and play. just because they're OBD I. legacy ECu is mounted under the steering column, and most of the wiring runs up the driver's side fender and plug into the engine near the battery. impreza ECU is mounted on the floor under the passenger's feet, and all the wiring goes through the firewall and plugs in to the engine above the passenger side head. plugs are different. you will be cutting, splicing, tracing, re-routing, etc. To do it well, you'll be pulling your dash, all the way to the firewall (dash cover, beam, all 3 HVAC sections. now's a good time to replace your heater core if you need to, or work on your A/C!). If you know your way around a wiring diagram, you'll be fine. but you'll probably be spending 10 hours on wiring alone.

Holy 3-year old thread, batman!!!

yep, pretty much. my XT6 is an Auto. I have no plans to change that, it's a great trans for daily driving, and even for more than a little screwing around. in the next month or so it'll be getting a rear LSD and center diff lock mod.

funny wagon looks funny swapping back to 4-lug. got the 3.9 rear end in, and 4-lug drums back on. obviously the gear ratios and tires don't match, so I left the rear axles out and locked the center, so it'll be FWD until I get the new engine/trans and front suspension swapped back. took a picture of the miata shocks/coilover springs compared to the stock rear stuff: car handles pretty goofy now....front sway bar is disconnected, turbo sedan rear bar. 250lb/in springs in the front, stock in the rear. RS 2-piston front brakes, GL drum brakes in the rear. 205/65r15 blizzaks on the front, 185/70r13 POS tires in the rear..... also improved my work conditions. went to Northern tool and grabbed this 10'x20' canopy on sale: and the parts car making it possible:

I was looking into this as I wanted to install a quick ratio Q-rack in my loyale. an EJ-series subaru steering rack will fit, but some modifications will need to be made to clear the fluid lines, and make sure the steering shaft comes out at the correct angle. also, EJ cars have a wider track than Ea82s. so the inner tie rods are a bit longer. you may want to swap your EA82 rods on there.

SPFI pump is plenty, assuming it's working . so check that. if you un-plugged your IAC and MAF, and got no change, those are not your issue. constant flashing CEL (while read connectors connected) means you have no codes. I wire the fuel relay power through the harness so the relay gets power straight from the battery, and is switched from the ECU. if the rest of the EJ harness is powered, the fuel pump *should* be as well. my next step (after fuel pump) would be to check the TPS. grab a multimeter and start testing the voltage coming off of it at different throttle levels. after that, I'd put the exhaust and 02 on there. it's gotta happen, and it can't hurt.....

that's for the HVAC control. not sure what the point of the canister is, but you need to hook that line up to a vacuum source on your EJ22 in order to select from heat, defrost, etc. code 12 is indeed for the starter switch. if this is not hooked up, it will not effect how the car runs once started. but it will make it very difficult to start in the cold (I daily drove my car for a year without it. battery died many times trying to crank it. but once it fired, it would run wonderfully). it is possible that it's getting 12v all the time, effectively leaving the choke on....this could make the engine stumble. I marked the starter signal wire (red with yellow stripe). make sure that's getting 12v only while cranking. There are a few wires going to the starter, a large one going from the solenoid to the + battery terminal, a large one going from the bracket to ground, and a smaller one going to a tab on the back of the solenoid (this is what mellow65 is referring to). Anywhere between that tab and the ignition switch will give you the signal you need. it does sound like a major post-maf air leak. all PCV and IAC lines connected? try un-plugging the MAF and IAC valves. this should throw it into a default mode that would allow it to run well. but I'd check into that starter signal first.

no. IIRC rex's use 4x114

an 02 sensor won't prevent it from idling. MAF will usually make it idle alright, but stumble and die when you open the throttle. have you checked for any codes yet? plug the black connectors together and the CEL will flash. should tell if/what is up.

huh....weird. I'll see if I can find some better diagrams to post....