Numbchux

pedal box clutch stuff (cable, or master cylinder, etc.) driveshaft is a different length rear diff flywheel starter transmission interior bits it's not too bad. I've done it on GC imprezas a couple times. one time we pieced it together. definitely do-able.

the EA82 radiator is plenty capable of cooling an EJ22. definitely not the weak link in the EA82 cooling system. get a loyale radiator. the lower outlet is already pointed straight out, instead of up at an angle like the GL ones. then cut a few inches off the 1 1/4" EA82 hoses, slip on the EA82 radiator outlets (now the 1 1/2" EJ hoses will fit perfectly on top of that). Then get stock radiator hoses for a BG ('96-'99) Legacy Outback. the outback has blocks on the engine crossmember, so the engine sits lower in relation to the radiator by a bit. so the hoses are formed very nicely. trim a few inches off both ends of the top hose, and they will both work perfectly. ta-da. all stock parts. I ran the stock, high-mileage, corroded, partially clogged Loyale radiator with my EJ22 for about a year. the EJ never overheated (as long as the fan came on...but that's a separate issue), even with just one fan.

let's see. I'll probably forget something, but I'll get the list started. 17mm for the front crossmember. 14mm for the rear crossmember, and bellhousing/starter bolts/nuts 12mm for the linkage (you'll want a few versions, box wrench, socket, maybe ratchet wrench). plyers/flathead for the clutch cable clip 12mm and 10mm wrenches for the clutch cable nuts 12mm box wrench for driveshaft bolts 12 or 14mm for driveshaft carrier bearing bolts Philips screwdriver for interior trim and shifter boot (you may want to bring a knife. the screws holding the rubber boot to the body are frequently rusted...) that's all I can think of. so bare minimum sockets: 12, 14, 17mm (obviously a ratchet. a couple extensions would be nice too) wrenches: 10, 12 plyers, and a few screwdrivers.

yep, I should have been more specific. I was saying only the '90 would have been actually called a loyale.

air intake is the same. the scoop is purely for looks. but yea, you could grab a hood from a '97-'99 legacy GT or Outback. it would have a scoop and fit right on your '95.

wow. must have been fairly low mileage transfer clutches. I moved my XT6 around a bit with a broken axle, but it didn't like it at all.....once you get moving a little bit, and both speed sensors match, then it tries to release the clutches, at which point, you slow down again, then they lock again...etc. etc. put it this way. Years ago when the guys did the Rubicon. Mudrat had a 4EAT in his hatch in front of a divorced tcase. he killed power to the dutyC, and IIRC had brand-new transfer clutches. He said, that even with the substantially lower gearing (something like double the stock EA82 D/R crawl ratio), it would not have driven up a curb. he had to pull it apart and mechanically lock it.

^yep. since they're all named by their trim level, an '86 "GL" could be an EA81 or EA82. although a Brat would probably be listed as a "Brat GL". so yea, only way to decipher them is by body style. I bet, as GD said, if you look them up for an '84, they'd be the same part number for all body styles.

yea, it is splitting hairs a bit. it is annoying, but I want to make sure the information is correct as possible. that is a good way to think of it. yea, as the transfer clutches grab, it does use up more of the available power, and therefore making less go to the front. but it is still a 100% mechanical connection from the output shaft to the front pinion shaft. so the front drive speed is still directly proportional to engine speed. you literally could remove the rear driveline from a car with a 4EAT and still drive it. without putting the FWD fuse in, or any other modifications. but not the other way around, and not in a 5MT (the EA FT4WD centers do have the full-lock option, so it's not hard to make them FWD....but it's not the same setting you'd use on pavement).

the duty cycle only varies the power to the rear. the front still gets 100% power, regardless of what the rear is doing. You're not wrong, just not exactly right . I was just clarifying. saying that it's variable up to 60/40 isn't really true, as it implies that the front gets less power as the rear gets more. which isn't the case. Glad to hear it. I've heard so many descriptions, and "torque splits" and stuff on the internet that is just wrong. I'm glad to hear someone else who I know has torn apart at least as many transmissions as I have agrees

where did you read that? it's a common misconception. but the front gets full power, all the time, regardless of what the rear is doing. it's really like 100/10, and then as the TCU puts more pressure on the transfer clutch, it varies up to about 100/80 (only reason it isn't 100/100, is the solenoid/clutch will still slip unless mechanically modified, they will not hold all the power). if your transfer clutch burns out entirely, you loose the rear drive, but you can still drive around fine. it's FWD, and you might not even notice it until it snows and you're stuck and I am talking about the 4EAT. 3ATs are not full-time. so they're 100/0, push the button and they're 100/80. torque splits really can't be boiled down to just a number ratio. as so many AWD systems have so many variables to how they react. with a mechanical center diff, like in a subaru 5MT AWD or FT4WD system, it really needs to be out of 200, as if one end is stopped, the other spins twice as fast. so a FT4WD system, unlocked, is 100/100, unless one end sees more resistance, and then it changes, all the way to 200/0, with almost no restriction. a VLSD center (EJ AWD 5MT) changes the amount of resistance depending on how much slip has already occurred. so 100/100, one end loose traction, and it goes to 150/50, then the VLSD heats up, and transfers power to the side with more traction, and it goes back towards 100/100.

yea, exhaust flange location and dimensions are the same for all dual-port EJ engines. some of the newer cars use a different oil pan to clear the headers, so you might run into that. but the oil pan is interchangeable too.....so it might be worth swapping to an STi pan (make sure you use a reinforced pickup though!! the stock STi ones are prone to cracking). but since you don't really need it to be smashed under the engine (no turbo), I'd look for something for a 2.5 N/A (like an RS). there are a few options, Borla makes a header that makes for a great sound, and shifts your powerband down lower a bit (better low end torque, but at a sacrifice in scavenging so not quite as much peak hp). There are a couple companies that make equal-length headers for them, with the opposite effect: less rumble, little less low-end torque, more peak hp.

yep, stock pump location in both my swaps. no pitch stopper in either. just pulled the motor out of my wagon. 290k total miles, 60k in the loyale. didn't even have [completely] torn motor mounts. were I to do it again. I would definitely use the SJR adapter plate with the little tabs for the pitch stopper. but if it's not fairly convenient....it's not entirely necessary.

could be. higher-octane fuel burns slower. although, I don't remember which octane tends to be higher. Our fuel is rated as an average of the 2, so your octane rating isn't necessarily comparable to ours.

not really....no. autos are 100% to the front wheels. all the time. period. then they direct power to the back as-needed.

yea, changing the engine isn't going to change anything. if your rack is geared not to have it, you'll be fine. now....the quicker-ratio power steering racks, with no power assist.....that sucks.

just wire it up as-is, and re train your brain. the gauge functions, you can still tell when the car is warming up, up to temperature, and overheating. just in a different place on the gauge. but if you try the resistor, I would love to hear how it goes. mathematically, it should work fine. and doesn't look too hard to do, but I don't remember anyone actually doing it.

yea, 13x4.5 and 4x140 sounds like stock wheel dimensions for any non-justy 4-lug subaru.

yea, you don't have to take apart the input, so if it isn't leaking, I wouldn't bother (taking this apart effects the gear mesh.....I messed with it once, and got it wrong.....eek). side seals are a good idea, but I've re-used without problem. just a thin bead of RTV around the rear cover, and you're good to go. and yea....the correct fluid is a good idea.

welcome to the USMB. if you have a look through this very same section, you'll notice a thread entitled "EJ-EA Power Steering". you'll find the answers you seek there. seriously. it was discussed in depth like 3 days ago. it's barely halfway down the page: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104879

the rear axles aren't one piece through the bearings and hub like the fronts. so if the nut is seized to the hub and such, you can pound the pin out, and slide it off. or, if it's the pin that's seized, you can pound the spindle out with it just like a front axle. getting that nut off is just a matter of having a big enough breaker bar but yea, '85/'86 EA82s have dual-DOJ rear axles that can be disassembled from either end. all others just from the inside. so yea, you could do it lying under the car. but I wouldn't...yuck

nope, the full-time dual-ranges are fairly rare, and only have a 1.2:1 low range. the part time ones are quite common, and have a 1.6:1.

99% of the dual-range trannies in the US are that way. only a handful of them are full-time dual range (locking center diff, no FWD option).

yep, fog lights. that orange one is a dealer-installed one. my '85 had 'em, the lights were smashed, but the button would light up when pushed (as long as the headlights were on).

Must-do? that totally depends on the condition of it. but really, if it ran, you wouldn't HAVE to do anything. I would probably do timing belt, front and rear main seals, cam seals, valve cover gaskets, tbelt pullies, and water pump. as those are the common wear items that are 100x easier to replace with the engine out, than in a car. SOHC spark plugs are easy. 20 minute job, if you're drinkin a beer IIRC, Austin's '94 1.8 imp wagon had a 3.90 5MT.... Wiring is NOT plug and play. just because they're OBD I. legacy ECu is mounted under the steering column, and most of the wiring runs up the driver's side fender and plug into the engine near the battery. impreza ECU is mounted on the floor under the passenger's feet, and all the wiring goes through the firewall and plugs in to the engine above the passenger side head. plugs are different. you will be cutting, splicing, tracing, re-routing, etc. To do it well, you'll be pulling your dash, all the way to the firewall (dash cover, beam, all 3 HVAC sections. now's a good time to replace your heater core if you need to, or work on your A/C!). If you know your way around a wiring diagram, you'll be fine. but you'll probably be spending 10 hours on wiring alone.

Holy 3-year old thread, batman!!!