Numbchux

sure it can. as long as you don't drive like a nut-case (which is how stock WRXs break their stock trannies). the strength of subaru trannies is entirely dependent on driving style, since they get a ton of traction (AWD). if you're smart with the happy-pedal, it'll probably last a long time. honestly, you'll be hard-pressed to find a clutch for an EA82 trans that will hold enough torque to worry about blowing up the trans.

This!! I haven't run a locker/welded diff in a subaru. But have had substantial experience in other vehicles. I did have a clutch-type LSD in my lifted '88 for a couple years. I always said the best way to think of it, is once you're teetering on 2 wheels, an open diff means you have zero forward power. When there's no resistance on the other wheel, an LSD will transfer about as much power as a person pushing on the back of the car. Ever been hung up, teetering, and had a buddy get out and push? Yea, just like that. obviously, in that situation a locked diff will transfer 100% of the torque. of course, that's a lot of torque to be put through one corner, and when the suspension at that one corner is compressed, the CVs aren't the weak link. the diff stubs are.

yep, they're the same. the only issue you might run into is the center hole of the ring gear is sometimes a different size. I know I wasn't able to get a 3.7 ring gear onto a 3.9 diff. So you might run into that trying to put a 4.111 gear onto a 4.444 diff (if that's what it was originally for). I just put an RX LSD into a '94 legacy 4.111 diff with almost no difficulty.

I don't know. not sure what you mean by that. But, you have dual port. single port just has one port on each head. Which doesn't surprise me, the '95 2.2s are kind of goofy, and have dual port heads.

what? yea, something isn't right. the gauge reads resistance to ground. it should peg to max when grounded....

I don't know EA81s at all. But an EJ 5MT is about 2" longer than an EA82 one. width is the same. tranny mount is different, and a bit further back.

something is definitely not right. I'm surprised it even runs without that hooked up. as you mentioned, the diode is for a different circuit entirely. so it shouldn't effect it. the diode allows the ECU to shut off the main relay if it needs to (never seen it happen....but it's called the Self-shutoff control....). In the swap on my Loyale, I completely removed the diode. hooked the main relay up to the switched source from the car, and then gave the ECU switched power sources where it needed it. worked great for many years (and still is working). Where are you getting your constant 12v source for the backup power? have you tested it to make sure it's all of 12v? have you checked all the grounds at the ECU to make sure you're not getting too much resistance.

Every time I've parted cars out, I remove the exhaust and front suspension, then un-bolt the transmission xmember. Then I lower the car until the engine xmember is on the ground, then disconnect everything from above. Then you can remove the nuts that attach the crossmember to the framerails and lift the body up. You do have to get the body up quite high to clear the engine, but it doesn't weigh much at that point, so it's not too bad. a stack of tires on either side of the transmission make good sturdy supports. Like this: When I parted out a Toyota 4Runner last year, I pulled everything as an assembly. Cutting the upper radiator support out with a sawzall made things muuuuuch easier. I'm sure it would help on a subaru too, but I bet it would be possible without. We put an engine and transmission in a turbo legacy last winter as an assembly....and it worked pretty well.

very cool idea! can't wait to see the result of this! maybe throw some 4.7:1 gears in that tcase while it's out.

no, the subaru ones are machined in and not designed for replacement. They're such low angle, they don't fail very often. But yea, a good driveline shop can do it. The local shop here in town quoted me about $30 parts + labor each.

Just thought I would emphasize this, as I would definitely argue that statement.

I had hoped so, and searched quite a bit. But it's not the case. there are a few problems with it, the carrier bearing is mounted further back in an EJ, so while the transmission is longer, the front half of the EJ driveshaft is the same length as an EA one. even an EJ shaft for an automatic is probably too long. Also, because the wheelbase is different, the rear half is a different length. and most EJ shafts are one piece, so no mixing and matching. there may be a combination that works, but I did quite a bit of searching, and had a few friends measure their spare driveshafts....and found nothing close.

yes. 5MT XT6 and most EJs use 3 transmission support pieces. 2 crossmembers, and a piece between them that the mount bolts to. 5MT XT6 crossmembers will bolt into any EA82. and the EJ center section will bolt to them (and then the EJ mount will bolt to it).

maybe read something other than the first post?

1. On the street, FT4WD means open center diff. which means every time you look at the happy pedal while turning you will just roast a front tire. if you have the '6 trans crossmembers, spend the ~$100 to have your driveshaft shortened (~2") instead of the adapter plate and clutch (much better clutch options for EJ). 2. you will need XT6 hubs in the rear. you can redrill EJ backing plates to bolt to EA/ER trailing arms, and then use the EJ calipers/rotors. that's a good option for upgrading, But you still need the XT6 hubs. For the front, you can just ream out the control arms to accept the larger EJ ball joints. or grab XT6 control arms. 3. will depend what transmission, rear diff, and front hubs you're using.

there was a thread about this pretty recently in the retrofitting section. EZ30 is about 1.5" longer bellhousing-to-crank pulley than an EJ22. it's not like the ER or EG H6s. So mechanically, pretty easy. same bellhousing as an EJ. same motor mounts. easy. Wiring isn't any harder than a 4-cyl of similar years as long as you stick to a standard EZ30D ('00-'04). EZ30DRs ('05+) have immobilizers, which means if you want to swap it, you will be running a standalone. Link and Hydra are both options. Kingbobdole has an EZ30D in his XT6.

no. Phantom Grip does not make anything for subarus, Mud-Rat put a phantom grip in the front of a D/R 5MT, and it blew up not long after. the cliff notes from that thread linked (and there's one more recent in the retrofitting section), is the front diff is the same for all subaru 5MTs. now, only a handful of the highest-end jdm 5MTs got front LSDs, so finding a used one in decent shape is unlikely. But, many companies make aftermarket ones... But be prepared to shell out a grand for a cheap one, and 3-4 for a nice one. Also, WJM put an aftermarket front LSD in his RX. and after a few events, his comment was that it wasn't enough to compensate for the open center diff. a stock EJ center LSD would be a much better improvement.

yep, possible, and been done. IIRC, SVXs use 3.545 rear diffs, which are available in other AT cars as well (I know AT WRXs for sure....possibly others). contrary to some belief, SVXs use r160 rear ends, NOT r180s. so it's the same case as almost all other subarus. issue is the axles (as is the case with any r160 rear VLSD). there are a few different styles of axles, and they are always different than the axles used in cars with open diffs. Problem is, SVXs use the larger hubs/bearings with the 5x114.3 lug pattern, so the outer axles aren't compatible with the more common 5x100 hubs. There's a chance that you could find axles out of another car with a VLSD rear (RS? JDM cars, etc.) that would work, but I can't confirm that. You might also be able to swap the inner axle cups from the SVX axles onto other EJ Axles, I know this is possible onto XT6 axle shafts, and I was planning on doing that into my XT6, but again, almost impossible to guarantee whether that will work or not until you get stuff torn apart.

honestly, the stock EJ airbox does a very good job of keeping the dust out. now, having not done an EJ swap on an EA81, I'm not sure what the best way to use the EJ airbox. But, on my lifted Ea82, I relocated the stock airbox up to the spare tire well by the firewall. it was easy with the TBI system on the EA82 to just rotate it, but with an EJ you'd have to make a custom plenum to go from the throttle body to the MAF with some ports on it for the PCV system and such. but it probably wouldn't be too hard. either use steel and weld onto it, or aluminum and braze it.

^agreed. it's not a simple swap, but it's doable. motor mounts and engine bellhousing is the same. so mechanically it's fairly simple as long as it's an EZ H6 (2000+). the EG33 (SVXs) is much longer, and will require moving of the radiator. wiring is not simple. a standard EZ30D (2000-2004) isn't too bad. not plug and play, but as far as subaru swaps go, it's not too bad. Still have to pull the whole bulkhead harness out of the donor, strip out the unnecessary, pull the dash in the other car, splice in the new engine harness, put the dash back, and go. EZ30DR/36DRs (2005+) have immobilizers. which make using the stock ECU in a swap nearly impossible. only way to do it is to swap EVERY electrical control box/sensor in the whole car. which isn't really possible unless it's into another outback/tribeca of the same body style. So you're left using a standalone control system. Hydra and Link will control them. Hydra using closed-loop AVCS control, but the Link G4 can run the AVCS in open-loop mode. Both would be a much simpler control than stock, so making a harness wouldn't be difficult.

that sounds right. this diagram is in the Write-up. should explain it better than words....but it sounds like you got it right

yea, it helps a bit. probably adds an inch or so to each corner, which can be the difference between walking through something, or having to use momentum.... How much better depends on your driving style, and what kind of wheeling you do. But chances are, you'll notice a decent improvement off-road, and a little change (that you'll probably quickly get used to) on-road. It's not dangerous, you'll still have lots of traction, and very little chance of rolling.....it's just different. there's pretty much zero chance the sway bar is what's causing your CV issues though. So if that's what you're thinking.....back to the drawing board.

I know kelly (can't remember his screen name though...) had issues with his axles. We put complete Outback strut assemblies (struts and springs) on my dad's '94 about a year ago. he's driven it a lot since then, numerous trips to colorado, etc. zero problems. also, yes. disconnecting the sway bar is very common to get struts bolted up. ESPECIALLY if they're a different length. shouldn't have to put it on jackstands (although you should) as long as you're not jacking on a suspension link or something.

hmmm....doesn't sound quite right. the resistor has to be between the signal wire and a ground. not between the sensor and gauge.

^that is not really anything new the question is, is there a caliper BRACKET that will bolt to an EJ knuckle, but allow an XT6 caliper. a legacy SS is the 2.2 turbo version. got the 276mm rotors and twin piston calipers. probably the same that the Liberty RSs got over there.