Numbchux

I had hoped so, and searched quite a bit. But it's not the case. there are a few problems with it, the carrier bearing is mounted further back in an EJ, so while the transmission is longer, the front half of the EJ driveshaft is the same length as an EA one. even an EJ shaft for an automatic is probably too long. Also, because the wheelbase is different, the rear half is a different length. and most EJ shafts are one piece, so no mixing and matching. there may be a combination that works, but I did quite a bit of searching, and had a few friends measure their spare driveshafts....and found nothing close.

yes. 5MT XT6 and most EJs use 3 transmission support pieces. 2 crossmembers, and a piece between them that the mount bolts to. 5MT XT6 crossmembers will bolt into any EA82. and the EJ center section will bolt to them (and then the EJ mount will bolt to it).

maybe read something other than the first post?

1. On the street, FT4WD means open center diff. which means every time you look at the happy pedal while turning you will just roast a front tire. if you have the '6 trans crossmembers, spend the ~$100 to have your driveshaft shortened (~2") instead of the adapter plate and clutch (much better clutch options for EJ). 2. you will need XT6 hubs in the rear. you can redrill EJ backing plates to bolt to EA/ER trailing arms, and then use the EJ calipers/rotors. that's a good option for upgrading, But you still need the XT6 hubs. For the front, you can just ream out the control arms to accept the larger EJ ball joints. or grab XT6 control arms. 3. will depend what transmission, rear diff, and front hubs you're using.

there was a thread about this pretty recently in the retrofitting section. EZ30 is about 1.5" longer bellhousing-to-crank pulley than an EJ22. it's not like the ER or EG H6s. So mechanically, pretty easy. same bellhousing as an EJ. same motor mounts. easy. Wiring isn't any harder than a 4-cyl of similar years as long as you stick to a standard EZ30D ('00-'04). EZ30DRs ('05+) have immobilizers, which means if you want to swap it, you will be running a standalone. Link and Hydra are both options. Kingbobdole has an EZ30D in his XT6.

no. Phantom Grip does not make anything for subarus, Mud-Rat put a phantom grip in the front of a D/R 5MT, and it blew up not long after. the cliff notes from that thread linked (and there's one more recent in the retrofitting section), is the front diff is the same for all subaru 5MTs. now, only a handful of the highest-end jdm 5MTs got front LSDs, so finding a used one in decent shape is unlikely. But, many companies make aftermarket ones... But be prepared to shell out a grand for a cheap one, and 3-4 for a nice one. Also, WJM put an aftermarket front LSD in his RX. and after a few events, his comment was that it wasn't enough to compensate for the open center diff. a stock EJ center LSD would be a much better improvement.

yep, possible, and been done. IIRC, SVXs use 3.545 rear diffs, which are available in other AT cars as well (I know AT WRXs for sure....possibly others). contrary to some belief, SVXs use r160 rear ends, NOT r180s. so it's the same case as almost all other subarus. issue is the axles (as is the case with any r160 rear VLSD). there are a few different styles of axles, and they are always different than the axles used in cars with open diffs. Problem is, SVXs use the larger hubs/bearings with the 5x114.3 lug pattern, so the outer axles aren't compatible with the more common 5x100 hubs. There's a chance that you could find axles out of another car with a VLSD rear (RS? JDM cars, etc.) that would work, but I can't confirm that. You might also be able to swap the inner axle cups from the SVX axles onto other EJ Axles, I know this is possible onto XT6 axle shafts, and I was planning on doing that into my XT6, but again, almost impossible to guarantee whether that will work or not until you get stuff torn apart.

honestly, the stock EJ airbox does a very good job of keeping the dust out. now, having not done an EJ swap on an EA81, I'm not sure what the best way to use the EJ airbox. But, on my lifted Ea82, I relocated the stock airbox up to the spare tire well by the firewall. it was easy with the TBI system on the EA82 to just rotate it, but with an EJ you'd have to make a custom plenum to go from the throttle body to the MAF with some ports on it for the PCV system and such. but it probably wouldn't be too hard. either use steel and weld onto it, or aluminum and braze it.

^agreed. it's not a simple swap, but it's doable. motor mounts and engine bellhousing is the same. so mechanically it's fairly simple as long as it's an EZ H6 (2000+). the EG33 (SVXs) is much longer, and will require moving of the radiator. wiring is not simple. a standard EZ30D (2000-2004) isn't too bad. not plug and play, but as far as subaru swaps go, it's not too bad. Still have to pull the whole bulkhead harness out of the donor, strip out the unnecessary, pull the dash in the other car, splice in the new engine harness, put the dash back, and go. EZ30DR/36DRs (2005+) have immobilizers. which make using the stock ECU in a swap nearly impossible. only way to do it is to swap EVERY electrical control box/sensor in the whole car. which isn't really possible unless it's into another outback/tribeca of the same body style. So you're left using a standalone control system. Hydra and Link will control them. Hydra using closed-loop AVCS control, but the Link G4 can run the AVCS in open-loop mode. Both would be a much simpler control than stock, so making a harness wouldn't be difficult.

that sounds right. this diagram is in the Write-up. should explain it better than words....but it sounds like you got it right

yea, it helps a bit. probably adds an inch or so to each corner, which can be the difference between walking through something, or having to use momentum.... How much better depends on your driving style, and what kind of wheeling you do. But chances are, you'll notice a decent improvement off-road, and a little change (that you'll probably quickly get used to) on-road. It's not dangerous, you'll still have lots of traction, and very little chance of rolling.....it's just different. there's pretty much zero chance the sway bar is what's causing your CV issues though. So if that's what you're thinking.....back to the drawing board.

I know kelly (can't remember his screen name though...) had issues with his axles. We put complete Outback strut assemblies (struts and springs) on my dad's '94 about a year ago. he's driven it a lot since then, numerous trips to colorado, etc. zero problems. also, yes. disconnecting the sway bar is very common to get struts bolted up. ESPECIALLY if they're a different length. shouldn't have to put it on jackstands (although you should) as long as you're not jacking on a suspension link or something.

hmmm....doesn't sound quite right. the resistor has to be between the signal wire and a ground. not between the sensor and gauge.

^that is not really anything new the question is, is there a caliper BRACKET that will bolt to an EJ knuckle, but allow an XT6 caliper. a legacy SS is the 2.2 turbo version. got the 276mm rotors and twin piston calipers. probably the same that the Liberty RSs got over there.

woa.....didn't really follow you there..... you want to use XT6 axles, EJ knuckles, and EA82t brake calipers? I can offer this, you will need a non-subaru inner wheel bearing seal for that axle/knuckle combination. I posted a bunch of info on that not long ago, with part numbers and everything. Also, XT6 caliper brackets will not mount to EJ knuckles. I don't know about XT6 v EA82 caliper/bracket interchangeability, as I've never compared them. I'm assuming you're looking to retain your front handbrake. baccaruda found some sort of EJ subaru bracket that bolted to the EJ knuckle, and then mounted the XT6 caliper to it just fine. I have to recommend swapping to rear ebrake, though. It was very slick, I bet you can find some sort of Nissan 200/240SX/silvia/altima type thing that uses the same rear caliper like we've found here in the US market. with that piece, the rest of the setup is pretty easy. and then you have muuuuch better options for front brakes!

against a stock 22t? yea, it should be fine. most of the internals are the same as an EJ trans. except the hi-lo gearset, which I don't think is the weak link. I think you'll find the problem is that the RX uses a cable-operated push-style clutch. whereas any turbo EJ uses a hydraulic pull clutch. you'll have a hard time finding a clutch kit that will hold up to the torque.

good to know. just looking from your height compared to where mine was set when I was 4-lug.....looks like that would be too low.

just be careful not to lower it too much. seriously, the EA front geometry is.....meh......the dynamic alignment is not designed to run that low.

NO sorry, just wanted to make sure that got seen. the tire size will be similar to what you have now. But no factory 15" subaru wheel will clear the front brakes on a Forester Xt without modification. there are some aftermarket wheels that will clear (many rally wheels, team dynamics, speedline, and others make them) however. as a rule of thumb, Subaru puts the smallest size wheel possible from the factory (not always true, but for the most part).

the only major difference is the turbo v N/A cars. so if you can identify which it was (look for the dent on the crossmember to clear the up-pipe on the passenger side), that will be a huge help.

the most common suspension clunks are the bolts between control arm and leading rod. and top hat nuts (these can be difficult, as the spring keeps quite a bit of tension on them, but when you hit a bump, just a tiny bit of play can cause a major noise).

depends on your definition of "fit". yea, you could mount it somewhere in the car, and probably use it as a gas tank. But no, they're completely different in almost every way imaginable. not even slightly bolt-in.

EA82 hubs are all the same. since I don't know what car you have....I don't know what you're thinking of running. but yea, if you have 25 spline stubs in your transmission, EA82t axles will work just fine. the axle ratio in my transmission is 4.111, so I used a 4.111 rear diff out of a '94 legacy. But they're the same. the Ej mounts are different, but the Ea82 hanger is a direct swap onto an EJ diff.

I had the control arms as close to level as I dared (roll-center starts getting pretty high), and never bottomed out the front struts (except that time I baja'd the snow bank while ice racing). AND, with a 5-lug swap, you could get a roll-center adjustment kit, so you'd have much better suspension geometry. Up to you, but I was 5-lugged for a couple years, and strut length was never the limiting factor when lowering.

stock XT6 trans is FT4WD single-range (but, with the 3.9 axle ratio, 1st gear is only a bit taller than 1st low in a 3.7 RX trans, and you have the .780 5th instead of the .871 in the turbos). XT6s were made through '91 or '92. if you're just looking for street mileage and traction, get a PT4WD trans. with a 2WD setting, it'll get great mileage (like, 30+ highway), and you'll still have 4WD for the snow. But, you might find FWD + Ea82 suspension + EJ torque = wheelspin.