Numbchux

Driving home from work tonight, and something stopped spinning. I was driving about 60mph, and something locked. it was dark and raining, so no skidmarks to check. But, I felt no pull in the steering wheel, and the car started to drift sideways as it skidded, but I was able to countersteer and keep it pretty straight-ish. so I suspect both rears were locked and both fronts were spinning. once the car came to a stop, I was able to get it to drive backwards a foot or so, and then it would drive forward to get it out of the road. I made it about 20 feet down the road on the shoulder then before it seized again, at which point, I wouldn't move at all. Assuming my assumption was correct (let me know if you see any holes in the theory), the center diff was working correctly. Wheel bearing seems really unlikely, as it would lock just one wheel, which I don't think was the case. ditto: axle. Only things behind the center diff, that would still effect both rear wheels, are the transfer gears in the transmission, and rear diff itself. I pulled the transmission dipstick and in the light in the car, didn't see any metal flakes or anything. So I'm suspecting rear diff. Thoughts? My girlfriend is going to give me a ride out to it with my spare 4.111 rear diff in the morning, but she can't hang out to see if I'm successful. So I want to run these ideas by someone else..... Setup is: 1988 XT6. stock engine, and transmission case halves. '94 impreza shafts, gears, synchros, center diff, front diff, and center diff case. '94 legacy rear diff case/gears with an RX LSD rear diff in it.

your ECU probably isn't turning on. check and recheck all the power wires. all grounds should be made through the engine block. I have also heard of a bad crank angle sensor allowing the ECU to come on, but it won't prime the fuel pump. was this engine in known-running condition? is the CEL coming on?

Written by our driver:

would help to know wtf car you have :-\

:confused: that's odd.....OK.

shimming the pressure plate out from the flywheel will make it worse. you'll need to replace the flywheel to fix the problem.

OBD II has the plugs above the passenger side cylinder head. so if the plugs are over by the battery, you're fine. phase II wasn't until 1998 (?), so that's not the right term. dual port was still common on '95s, even though those were OBD II. so that's not a good indicator of OBD I. intake manifold is also pretty different for OBD I vs II.

Yes it does, your problem is elsewhere. the clogged and dirty radiator that was in my Loyale since it was built kept my EJ22 perfectly cool, even without ANY fan (as long as you're moving more than about 20mph). That radiator started leaking, so it had to be replaced. but I've done 2 EJ22 swaps using performance radiator all-brass Loyale rads with zero problems. both of them only using one fan. This is for daily driving, freeway, Autocross, ice racing (grill/bumper packed with snow....), hauling (the loyale has a trailer hitch!), etc.

http://japanparts.com/db/parts_detail.php?submit.x=32&submit.y=1&NUMBER=00010793&VOLUME=9005-001-001&DEALER=1&CAR=5&MIDDLE=1&SMALL=19&MAKER=82&VOLKEY=&SEARCH_DEALER=1&SEARCH_CAR=5&SEARCH_MIDDLE=1&SEARCH_SMALL=19&SEARCH_MAKER=&SEARCH_VOLKEY=&SEARCH_page=

nope. 2 separate temp sensors. one for ECU and one for the gauge.

yea, I've driven many years and thousands of miles on front axles without roll pins. at stock height it's really a non-issue. I have lost a rear axle while driving though. those are not optional, even at stock height or lower.

I've come across more than a few very rusted ones. soak in Sea Foam Deep Creep, then apply heat, and then force. sometimes an air hammer is a good option for getting them loose. but make sure you're using an attachment with a large enough tip, if it's too small, it'll just make it worse. even careful use of a hydraulic press has been a useful option.

I'm not really sure what the reasoning for this post is. if you're asking for something, or just letting others know (there's an ebay section of the classifieds). But your title refers to Brat/Brumby....and that's an Ea82 block.....do not match.

the EJ bellhousing is larger than the EA. so you wouldn't have enough materal. take a piece of cardboard. trace the inside edge of the EA bellhousing, and then the outside edge of the EJ. use the 2 studs at the bottom as reference, as these are the only hardware that lines up along the bellhousing.

nope, from the factory it's a different plate. some aftermarket suppliers use the same part (Beck/Arnley being one of them) though. there's very little gain to be had by using an EJ disc. the different materials are used so they can handle heat better. But if you're still using a relatively weak pressure plate, you won't have any more holding power.

just a reminder. if you use the starter, make sure you un-plug the coil wire so it won't start!

^only '85 and '86.

Yea, I ordered an EJ22 gasket set from them last spring. I was less than ecstatic about the communication. But right about when I was getting really worried, my check card was charged, and the online status changed to "shipped". I think I even got a tracking number. I suspect they order it to their dealership, and then ship from there. so anything that's not in stock might have to wait awhile before it goes out. I just wish they would TELL you that at some point.

ONLY in second gear? I would suspect something with that gear or synchro.

the EA82 roof rails are just riveted onto the sheet metal. not exactly structural. So any roof rack designed to carry any weight (spare tire, jack, etc.) has to be attached to the drip rails. I used to just lay my spare tire on the roof, and the ratchet strap it to the yakima crossbars. kept it very sturdy, but still low.

yep, I was just going to mention Austin's water wagon 2

http://www.linkecu.com the one I have is a v4 LEM. and yes, relay as well. but, unless you separated it for some reason, it should be tied into the grounds for the ECU as well.

yes, all grounds for the ECU should go straight to the block. this is how they're wired in the stock car. I've never had a car show abnormal symptoms as a result, but I've never wired it any other way. But I have seen a few sources (including the installation manual for my Link Standalone) that mention that grounding one part of the system through the chassis can cause a difference in resistance.....which is a bad thing.

yes, you can pull your torsion bar out, rotate it one spline, and replace. but it yields about 4" of lift.....the 2 EA81s I've done we did this way. lots of clearance, and lots of travel!

everything for the engine control should be grounded to the block. then the block grounded to the battery. you've probably got some interference. did you take your power sources from the same circuit as the stereo somewhere?