Numbchux

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nope. 2 separate temp sensors. one for ECU and one for the gauge.

yea, I've driven many years and thousands of miles on front axles without roll pins. at stock height it's really a non-issue. I have lost a rear axle while driving though. those are not optional, even at stock height or lower.

I've come across more than a few very rusted ones. soak in Sea Foam Deep Creep, then apply heat, and then force. sometimes an air hammer is a good option for getting them loose. but make sure you're using an attachment with a large enough tip, if it's too small, it'll just make it worse. even careful use of a hydraulic press has been a useful option.

I'm not really sure what the reasoning for this post is. if you're asking for something, or just letting others know (there's an ebay section of the classifieds). But your title refers to Brat/Brumby....and that's an Ea82 block.....do not match.

the EJ bellhousing is larger than the EA. so you wouldn't have enough materal. take a piece of cardboard. trace the inside edge of the EA bellhousing, and then the outside edge of the EJ. use the 2 studs at the bottom as reference, as these are the only hardware that lines up along the bellhousing.

nope, from the factory it's a different plate. some aftermarket suppliers use the same part (Beck/Arnley being one of them) though. there's very little gain to be had by using an EJ disc. the different materials are used so they can handle heat better. But if you're still using a relatively weak pressure plate, you won't have any more holding power.

just a reminder. if you use the starter, make sure you un-plug the coil wire so it won't start!

^only '85 and '86.

Yea, I ordered an EJ22 gasket set from them last spring. I was less than ecstatic about the communication. But right about when I was getting really worried, my check card was charged, and the online status changed to "shipped". I think I even got a tracking number. I suspect they order it to their dealership, and then ship from there. so anything that's not in stock might have to wait awhile before it goes out. I just wish they would TELL you that at some point.

ONLY in second gear? I would suspect something with that gear or synchro.

the EA82 roof rails are just riveted onto the sheet metal. not exactly structural. So any roof rack designed to carry any weight (spare tire, jack, etc.) has to be attached to the drip rails. I used to just lay my spare tire on the roof, and the ratchet strap it to the yakima crossbars. kept it very sturdy, but still low.

yep, I was just going to mention Austin's water wagon 2

http://www.linkecu.com the one I have is a v4 LEM. and yes, relay as well. but, unless you separated it for some reason, it should be tied into the grounds for the ECU as well.

yes, all grounds for the ECU should go straight to the block. this is how they're wired in the stock car. I've never had a car show abnormal symptoms as a result, but I've never wired it any other way. But I have seen a few sources (including the installation manual for my Link Standalone) that mention that grounding one part of the system through the chassis can cause a difference in resistance.....which is a bad thing.

yes, you can pull your torsion bar out, rotate it one spline, and replace. but it yields about 4" of lift.....the 2 EA81s I've done we did this way. lots of clearance, and lots of travel!

everything for the engine control should be grounded to the block. then the block grounded to the battery. you've probably got some interference. did you take your power sources from the same circuit as the stereo somewhere?

OK. first, 250 hp at the crank or wheels? that's a big difference, and will drastically effect the setup. at the wheels, then yea. what tex said is the cheapest way to get a reliable 250 out of it. BUILT 2.2 shortblock (pistons, rods, re-bored, etc.), USDM WRX heads, intake, wiring, and ECU. We did this on my buddies '95 impreza last summer, awesome combo. he's runnin 8.8:1 compression and a TD04 right now, hasn't seen a dyno yet, but I bet it's in the 225awhp range, and plenty strong enough for 250 with a little more work. I'll do this wiring swap, plug and play for $500. at the crank? that could be done with the 22t/251(or 253, whichever yours has) combo. But you'll need to upgrade your fuel system (pump and injectors, converting to parallel fuel rails isn't necessary, but not hard either and offers a bump in reliability). And management.... Don't go PP6 when turbo'ing an N/A car, it's great for adjusting fuel trims, but terrible at timing. If you're doing piggyback, get a GReddy EManage Ultimate (aka EMU). But I would highly recommend a standalone, I'm partial to the Link system, that's what my built, blown 2.2 will be running off of if I ever get around to putting it in something. But any of them will do. This can be done just with some wiring at the ECU, keeping the rest of the harness. I've done this as well, I can do it for you if you want, but it's much easier in the car (don't have to pull the dash). if you're looking for 150awhp. throw 5psi-ish at your stock system (better with N/A compression). assuming it's a MAF system (I don't remember which years are which), it'll do a great job of compensating for a little boost.

low compression means you can run a lot of boost *without worrying about detonation* (there are still other issues, that will NOT be able to solve on stock management). it will still have a lot of lag. Even the big power builds usually run 8.5 or so. N/A 2.2 pistons will work. they usually run 9.5, so they'll probably be 9.2 or so with 2.5 heads. that's pretty good for a low-boost setup. but really, it'd be easier/cheaper just to get an N/A 2.2 block. the 22t just has a harder time cooling (closed deck means most of the coolant passages are full of aluminum, there's a reason they don't make those anymore).

anything's possible. with a LOT of cutting, welding, and painting. only thing bolt on is going to be other '95-'99 legacies.

I just went to advance auto parts and picked up a generic one. stuck my AFR gauge in it, grabbed some double-sided tape, and called it a day. I never took a picture of it, because it really wasn't anything to look at. obviously aftermarket, but it wasn't ugly either.

pulling the cluster is independent of the ECU. decent EA82 diagrams are hard to come by. the only one I've found that's 100% reliable is the plugs right at the cluster. also, no. they don't all go to the ECU. temp, oil pressure, and tach signal come from other sources. so you'll be tracking things down from a few places, and size, shape, and quantity of plugs on the rest of the harness changed a few times, so you'll have to be sure to get the right diagrams. I don't know, I haven't done it any other way. but the ones I've done were pretty simple, and had the correct number of surprises (none).

I'm quite sure that WJM sold his RXs. which is why he isn't around on here anymore.

been done hundreds of times. there's a great write-up on it in the USRM (it's old, so you'll have to go to page 2). proportioning valve is only an issue on non-EA82 cars. they're definitely different than EA81s. but if you're just replacing the drums on an EA82, you're set.

I would test-fit first. my only concern would be too much offset, and the inside of the rim hitting suspension components and such. trucks tend to use less offset to more evenly transfer weight to the ground, whereas cars use more to put less strain on the bearings. also, center hole. I have no idea what the sizes on either would be....but I've had that problem mixing and matching wheels on other cars. lug pattern is the same, but the center hole doesn't clear the hub.