Numbchux

"involved"? just take it out. 4 plugs and 3 (?) nuts holding it on the steering column. un-plug it, stuff the wires up out of the way, ziptie the EJ one where it was, done.

I have not seen videos of this car being beat up. the videos I saw were definitely a different car. This car actually has USMB history before AA got their hands on it. it was owned by Hillbillyles in missouri, and it had a 4" BYB kit on it then. I don't remember exactly how it happened, but the short version is, it rolled backwards off a retaining wall. He had it fixed, and then ebayed it, and that's how the AA guys got it. they first used it to take a bunch of pictures of how their lift differed from the BYB one, and then retrofitted their kit to this car. and then it became the showcase car for their parts, bumpers, wheels, etc. although the black graphics came after they sold it. thread about it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22936

agreed. this business with the ammo can just sounds like more work for something that might be as effective....

my point exactly. you've seen posts about it being done. and then you start a new thread asking if it's been done. next time click "search", instead of "new thread". you know the search terms, and you know where to look......

seriously. don't knock it unless you've tried it. the front sway bar does so little on the street. also, if you're at stock height, you won't see much improvement by removing/disconnecting it. and if you're lifted. you've got no business driving like you need sway bars.

so, where did it come from? You just randomly guessed at some springs from some other cars and asked?

I still don't understand how that happened, but it obviously did. do you think XT6 rod ends would solve that problem, though? I'm not clear where you were having the issue, so I'm not sure how to prevent it.

I'm sorry. I don't think there's any way to say this without being rude. So if you're not ready to hear it, stop reading now. Seriously, you're talking about a major modification to your car, that will require some creative wrenching and parts buying. and you obviously have an extremely basic understanding of how cars work. ABS has NOTHING to do with calipers. EA82s and XT6s don't have rear knuckles. struts and hubs are completely unrelated. You have a ton of research to do. And I would recommend that you jack up your car, pull the wheels off, and spend some time seeing how things work. And then go do the same with an EJ car and see what's different, and how they work. and then look at the pictures of the crossbred kit, and the detailed write-ups here about the 5-lug swap, and how that's all going to work.

"only one fan". as in, only one fan is working? or you only have one. EA82s without A/C only have one, although I don't remember if it's electric or mechanical. I only worked on one EA82 without A/C, and the fan setup was not original on it. pretty much no way to check if the water pump is weak. other than by eliminating everything else. it will still move water around, just not quite enough. like I said, my '88 had the same symptoms yours does (well, it would overheat idling, but that was in August), and was completely cured with a new water pump (it also didn't have A/C or tbelt covers, so I did it before tstat or radiator flush).

:-\

anybody who is serious about actual performance and not just spending money on stuff that looks cool doesn't buy "off-road" sway bars. they're a joke. if you're that set on having them connected for the street, remove the bolt from one end-link. that will render it useless. if that's too much for you, replace the bolt with a pin of somesort. That's what I did. then the first time I disconnected it, I didn't feel like reconnecting it for a short drive on the street. it was never connected again, removed it all together not long after that. it's a very small change.

definitely lies. the car will not know the difference. it will just think you're going a little slower than you are.

no. those hatches are heavy, just because they don't hold it up doesn't mean they're not helping!

vice grip will chew up the shaft, and is hard on the seals. pretty good way to get it to totally fail. a jack/broom handle from above the tail-light works well without putting any more leverage on things than the lift struts do anyway. they are not adjustable to the best of my knowledge. I've never seen any way to do it....I'm betting something is bent. find out what it is, and bend it back. or, if I can get the back open, I'll pull the hinges off my parts wagon and you can have them for shipping.

First off, what is the car? it doesn't matter TOO much, but things are a bit different between engines. I would try: Fan radiator tstat water pump in that order, but mostly because of difficulty to replace/diagnose. really, I would suspect the pump before radiator and tstat. as mentioned, the fan is super easy to check. when it's getting hot, take a peek. if it's working....great! the fan in my XT6 is not functional, so if I let it idle it gets warm. having the heat on helps a bunch, but I still have to be careful. again, radiator will not be evenly hot if it's causing the problem. you may have to let it warm up, and then turn the engine off so you can poke your hand in around the fan without loosing a limb. If your radiator is cooling evenly, and fans working, you likely have a coolant flow issue. my old lifted '88 had this problem, it would get hot at idle. the combination of low rpm and low airflow was just too much. a new water pump fixed the problem. you might try flushing your radiator out before diving into the water pump. but if it doesn't have cold spots, it's likely not the problem. also, a tstat limits flow at all rpms, so the car would likely still overheat while driving. especially under load. But, it's a cheap part, and easy to replace....so I'd try it before the water pump. if you've ruled out the rest....then it's time for a water pump. details on this are pretty dependent on the motor.

I don't know for sure if they are the same. But I know that they're interchangeable. But why? just use the EA81 rod ends. the taper is the same size as XT6 and EJ knuckles, but they're shorter. then you won't have to cut anything down.

what struts? GD ('02-'07) impreza sedans have a wider track, so the struts are slightly different. using those struts on other subarus will make camber adjustment difficult. I had no problem with axles bottoming out on my wagon. setup was '92 fwd legacy axles, struts, and knuckles. XT6 control arms. RX trans. the XT6 shaft is definitely shorter than EJ ones though. so axle interference fits with your symptoms.

EJ hubs are ENTIRELY different. you'd be better off machining ones from scratch than trying to make an ej one work. at which point, just buy the crossbred kit. backing plates, calipers and rotors can be used, but you need the XT6 hubs to complete the puzzle.

he said 1/4". and that it was extremely tough.

This is a '92 _______ Wagon. Legacy? Loyale? Turbo? crucial information. The responses above are only true if it's a legacy, and the outback suggestion would be the same as turbo legacy hardware. also, keep in mind....larger front brakes means larger wheels.

he said they had a little rubbing in the rear on the way out. so some trimming will be happening when they get home. with a 2.5 turbo and 4.444s....yea. probably had some pretty good power.

pics:

saw this at Sno*Drift, and talked to the owner/builder quite a bit. It was finished the day before the event, and driven across the lower peninsula of MI to the event without problems. Cheers to them! the recipe: '96 LGT wagon take the stock EJ25D, and add STi pistons and rods then add a TD04 and associated intake/exhaust/IC parts bolt it to the stock LGT 4.444 4EAT add some 6" subframe blocks some 6" strut top extensions and some plates to extend the strut-knuckle connection about 2" some 1.5" wheel spacers and some 31x10.5" tires as seen Jalopnik: http://jalopnik.com/5462681/my-dads-subaru-wagon-can-beat-up-your-dads-everything we took a ton of pictures, which should be up very soon.

It has been discussed before. as there is an ATV wheel pattern that is close to the subaru (4x135 or something). 2 things to consider. There isn't really any extra rim-to-brake clearance with the stock wheels. so stepping down in wheel size is going to be difficult. with the right shape, I think a 12" wheel might work. but no way on a 10". Also, a subaru is many times heavier than even the biggest, burliest of ATVs. While it hasn't really been tested, so it might work, you'd be pushing the limits a bit.

wow....this thread is almost useless. FACTS. Things I have done/tried/tested. An EJ transmission swap is not hard. I did a lot of leg work when I did mine, and could not find any factory driveshaft combination that would work. the carrier bearing mount in EJs is further back relative to the transmission than EAs. so all speculations about transmission lengths goes out the window. An EA82 5MT driveshaft is too long for an EJ trans in an EA82, and an EA82 AT one is too short for much spline engagement at the slip yoke. it would work, but for how long......I wouldn't trust it, even with just EJ22e power. Transmission mount is different, but that's just a matter of getting your hands on XT6 crossmembers, or some fabricating, the crossmembers are really almost identical to EA82 ones, but with holes drilled in them and a third piece bolted between them (which has to be swapped for an EJ one anyway). Phizinza started working on modifying the starter enough to work with an EJ flywheel when he did his brat years ago. he didn't end up going through with it, but you could find his thread and then more information about it. EJ flywheels are larger than EA82 ones, and will not fit in the EA82 transmission bellhousing as-is. Some grinding and starter relocation might make it possible.....but it's not an easy option. An EJ pressure plate will NOT fit on an EA82/ER flywheel. period. the 6 mounting bolts between them are much further apart on an EJ. And even then, you'll need a push-type PP to work with any EA82/ER clutch fork, which only improves your clutch options a bit from the EA (cheaper, but not much stronger). if holding power is what you're after, converting to hydraulic and push-style is the way to go. Or just drop the cash on a Spec EA82 clutch. An EJ clutch disc will work just fine on a 4WD EA82/ER. But upgrading the disc alone only effects how quickly it wears, not how much torque it can hold. Like I said, upgrading to a high-end WRX disc, but using a XT6 PP means it'll still be slipping all the time, but it won't wear as fast. I ran a high-quality Beck/Arnley clutch kit for an XT6 on an EA82 flywheel behind an EJ22e in my wagon. it was in rough shape after 40k miles, and I ALWAYS let the clutch engage fully before WOT. That was definitely near the limit of what that kit could hold. Educated Speculation: I have seen zero evidence to suggest that an EA82/ER 5MT has any different gears (as far as strength is concerned) than your average EJ 5MT (excluding the WRX STi RA stuff). The gears are no larger. the only way they could be stronger is if the material was treated better. The only difference is the low-range gearset, which does add some complexity.....the input shaft certainly isn't the weak link on a single-range trans.....The rear transfer gears look a bit beefier in the FT4WD setup, but again, not really the weak link unless running RWD. From what I've seen standard EJ 5MTs hold up to, ~225 ft/lbs is probably about as much torque as the gears can hold up to, even if used carefully. IMHO, any effort to get a clutch in there to hold that much is useless.... From what I remember, there are 2 cars that ran an EJ20t with an EA82 PT4WD D/R 5MT. one with an EJ20H (early twin-turbo), and the other was Albie's, with an EJ205 (USDM WRX). Both were lifted wagons with boggers. both were used hard in the mud. and both saw catastrophic drivetrain failure at one point or another.