Numbchux

hold up, all your references (AFAIK) are part-time 4WD vehicles. little differences like that are fine off-road with a locked center. But that's not really applicable to a EJ VLSD AWD drivetrain. let's say you're running 30" tires. at 70mph, that's 784 rotations. 4.10 R&P = 3,214.4rpm 4.111 = 3,223 8.6 rpm difference at speed typically speaking, subarus can tolerate a max of 2/32s difference in tread depth. so that's 4/32s in overall tire diameter. stock WRX tire size of 24.87" = 945.42 rpm @ 70 * 4.111 = 3,886.6 that minus 4/32s is 24.75" = 950.19 = 3,906.2 19.6 rpm difference at speed. so...yea. you should be fine.

check your coolant temp sensor. maybe the ECU is thinking the engine is cold.

uh huh

obviously this site needs some help when the veterans can't even give a helpful link. Noah, did you actually try that smartass link of yours? nothing even slightly helpful. you'll find working links to a bunch of information on my site: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/downloads.htm you'll also find a thread at the top of the Retrofitting section with a list of those of us who have done the swap. That'll give you a great idea of what's been done, and who's posts to look for as you're searching.

that's....not normal. I wonder if you were having a problem with the coolant temp sensor for the ECU.

yep, should be possible. I considered that for my 4Runner. EG33 to a 700R4....but it would have cost way more than the 4.3 swap I'm doing, and I really don't have the fabrication skills for it.

^yep also, have you tried letting the fuel pump prime a couple times before starting it?

a quick searched turned up this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97148

actually the EA trans will hold up longer, since it's FWD on the street, you'll loose traction before you put too much strain on the gears. EJ bellhousings are deeper than EAs. that's why the adapter plate is needed. that won't save you any space in front. 2-piece driveshaft isn't a weak link. in fact, eliminating it, when you've got a 4WD car there already, is just a waste of money. just have the front half modified.

can't help unless you tell us what the EJ donor was. there are a number of different alternators and wiring.

the BFGs are decent. "Jack of all trades, master of none", for sure. You're asking a lot of a tire to be great offroad, and still be used a lot on the freeway. those 2 things require entirely different tread compound and pattern. by asking both, you're getting a compromise. the BFGs are probably your best bet, if you're ready for that compromise. But they are expensive. you could probably spend a lot less on each set of tires (a bit more total...), and get 2 sets. one smaller, highway all-season tire that will allow better mileage and driveability on the street, and then switch to a larger mud-terrain when you get there.

^what he said. the VSS is marked as the reed switch in the EA82 speedo.

possible? anything's possible. actually, this is easier and cheaper than pretty much anything else except another 22RE. And very common. There are actually options for bolt-in motor mount adapters to put this motor in place of a 22RE. and yea, the 22RE is an extremely tough motor. But, both the ones I had were destroyed due to terrible maintenance. and they are not a powerhouse.

After dealing with 2 very poorly maintained 22Rs (original RTE was run out of oil. replaced it with a used RE, which promptly blew the head gasket, and when I tore into it to replace it, I found numerous stripped and destroyed threads from the last time someone was in there. Including the head bolt right next to where the gasket failed), I decided it was time for something else. It was going to be pretty difficult to get the power out of the 4-cyl, so I started looking at other options. I decided the 4.3 was the best option due to it's size, power, availability (both of replacement parts, and adapters and such for the swap), and price. Also, I much prefer an Auto transmission for rock crawling, so that would be easy. I settled on a '92-'94 CPI 4.3 with a 4L60[E]. I mentioned this to a co-worker over the winter, and it turned out he had a '92 S-10 blazer parts truck he wanted to get rid of. So, once the snow melted and I could make room for it, I bought it. Not bad for $40 delivered excellent! I spent this last weekend pulling it apart, with the application of time, blood, swearing, and force, she gave up the goods: I also got them on the ground, and engine/transmission/transfer case separated. exhaust manifolds removed. wiring harness and ECU pulled from the 4runner. the recipient: Now that I'm the crew chief for Ziptie Rally, and we're running a race out in Pennsylvania over the first week in June, we would like to take the 4runner as the second service vehicle. So I've got my work cut out for me. Plan is, replace the water pump, fuel lines/regulator, and timing set as preventative maintenance while it's out. AA motor mount adapters and block hugger headers, Downey tcase adapter to a RF1A toyota tcase (available from AA). This combination *should* allow the stock tcase location, so I won't have to modify the crossmember and driveshafts. I'll do the wiring myself, so this shouldn't be too difficult. I have the FSM for the blazer.... I had planned on doing a 2" body/drivetrain lift at the same time as the swap, but those parts are backordered from 4Crawler, so I think that will have to wait until after the rally. maintenance parts are ordered. Water pump, timing set, fuel lines, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, A/C pump bypass pulley, serpentine belt, and idler pulleys. tach signal modulator so I can use my awesome digital gauge cluster is ordered I'll be ordering the tcase adapters and such tomorrow. and then dropping off the transmission at a buddy's shop later this week so we can start tearing into it to replace the output shaft.

yea, obd ii cars do use the input. I have heard of stumbling and hesitation issues without the VSS. I noticed zero change with my obd i swap....but I'd still hook it up were I to do it again.

What year EJ18? AFAIK, all 18s have solid lifters, not hydraulics like early 2.2s and EA82s. so if it's got valve tick, it'll need to be adjusted. also, valvetrain noise and knock are very different noises.....your description is pretty vague, but if it is a knock, I'd walk away. typically, with a knock. you can pull the plug wire of the offending cylinder, and the noise will go away.

the engine wiring section for a '98 RS can be found here: http://northursalia.com/modifications/misc/wiring/wiring.html wiring will be the same, some wire colors will be a bit different.

just wanted to emphasize the "IF". I have used this method, but ONLY as a last resort. if it's a manual, put it in 5th, and set the parking brake. You should be able to easily break it loose with a breaker bar now. if it comes to bumping the starter. rest the breaker bar on the frame just in front of the battery. also, be sure to take steps to make sure the engine won't start. at the very least, un-plug the wire between the distributer and the ignition coil.

I did a clutch on my wagon a couple years ago. woke up at 10am, drove to Northern tool, bought an engine hoist, drove home, assembled it, pulled the engine, replaced the clutch and oil pan, put it all back together, took a shower and went to work at 5pm. And delivered in it all night. With help....yea. definitely.

EG is by far the biggest subaru motor. the radiator will need to be moved forward quite a bit. the EG33 barely fits in an XT6 engine bay, which is already a few inches larger than an EA82 one.

standard threads, not reverse.

yea, a gutted cat will do that. I love the way my old loyale sounds. borla header, and stock mid-pipe from a Cali-spec BD Legacy GT (3 cats, and a resonator). and then a turn-down so the exhaust wasn't pointed right at the DOJ boot....

VSS wire from the ECU. to the reed switch in the gauge cluster. Done.

yep, nothing new. tach and temp gauge are just signal wires. tach from the ECU (engine speed output), and temp straight from the engine. VSS should be in the speedo (I guess some EA81s don't have it....I don't know the pattern there). called a reed switch. does the speedo work? if the speedo works, and the odo doesn't, your gauge is F'ed. if none of it works, your cable is disconnected (in which case, the VSS won't work either).

thanks busy time of year, working on 4 more SVX swaps ....but I won't turn people away.