Numbchux

Ziptie Rally will be running our #171 out at STPR this year. we've got reservations at a campground, but rumor has it the owner(s) are not rally-friendly. So, we're looking for a cheap place to stay in that part of the world, probably June 1-6....any ideas would be appreciated.

I ran a NAPA reman'd axle on the ChuxWagon for it's first trip. with a 2" difference between diff and hub.....it blew up (seriously, the DOJ cup exploded) less than 24 hours after purchase. replaced with a re-booted OEM axle that I got at the junkyard, which lasted the 2 years until I sold the car.

I wouldn't worry about that angle on OEM axles, but remans, and horspower.....yikes. carry a few spares!

here in the US. you need a Full-time 4WD D/R 5MT from a Subaru RX, Which is usually a 3.7. And then put a 4.111 front pinion shaft and center diff from a newer gen subaru in it.

yea, that's why I said "without a tcase" it's a great way to beef up the system, and open up options, without completely re-engineering the front end. I've got everything to convert an RX box to 4.111, and I have a 4.10 toyota axle here. My buddy's brat is so rusty, it needs a LOT of new steel welded into the back anyway.....some leaf spring/shock mounts, and fuel cell....

So, my AA tcase and motor mount adapters came today. along with an AWESOME booklet called "Toyota Truck and 4Runner engine swaps". holy crap, every question answered! unfortunetely it's making it sound like I'm going to have more problems that I thought. Since I was getting most of my info on Pirate, almost all the projects I'd seen were with a SFA. well, I plan on keeping the IFS for some time yet. So, looking like it's not going to be done in time for STPR :-\ I think I'll hold out until the body/drivetrain lift is all ready, and then I can get things mocked up exactly how I want them. But, Awesome red paint

See through it, yea, but you can't lean out to get a better look at the wheels. meh, I see both sides of the argument. I plan to do some full-tube doors for mine at some point. nice work on the door cards, though!

w00t!! that's awesome. I'd love to see some pictures of how the crossmember and shift linkage worked out!

I am excited to see this. I think solid rear axle without a divorced Tcase is an awesome idea. We've been discussion doing that with my buddy's brat.....

5-lug swaps are possible. But, as I said, lifts are possible and cheap already. if you're going for an offroad look, lift it as-is, and re-drill the hubs to 6-lug for wheel selection.

turns out the Downey adapter works fine, BUT you have to run dual tcases, or the front driveshaft won't clear the tranny pan. DOH. Also, oil pan won't clear the front diff without modification/lift. So, front diff/driveshaft will be staying out until the body/drivetrain lift. I'll make a bracket of some sort to support the inner front axle joints in the mean time. So, AA adapter and motor mount adapters should be here on wednesday. timing set and water pump are replaced. fuel lines in the intake are replaced. Awesome Red paint on the upper intake is drying as I type this. I hope to get things mocked up this weekend. Blazer donor went away last week. the city is hassling me about the cars/parts on my property, so I couldn't hang on to it....hope I got everything

^Where did you get EA82 from? he specifically said getting an impreza or legacy and putting a WRX or STi engine in it. answer is, easy, common. been done THOUSANDS of times. been documented hundreds and hundreds of times.

it's not the housing that's different. it's the carrier. first gen legacies have male stubs just like EAs. All other EJs have female splines in the diff. I'm running a 4.111 rear diff from a '99 RS with the carrier from an EA turbo sedan in my XT6 right now. completely bolt-in.

the rumors were about imprezas. 5-lug swap is possible. but if you want a lift, just buy a lift. much cheaper and simpler! http://www.sjrlift.com

yep. The bearings are pretty tough as long as they stay greased and don't get water/dirt in there. BUT, that's not always the case. But yea, like GD said, check your axle nuts and such first. Then jack the car up and look for play in the bearings. if there's play, replace them. if not, you could just re-pack them (although if you find a local bearing supplier, it's pretty cheap to just replace them with the better sealed unit).

don't know what they are. but the only thing you'll need in the interior is ECU plugs, and ignition/fuel relays. might also want select monitor and test/read mode connectors. Everything else gets cut off. trace each wire back, if it goes to one of those plugs that you need, identify it, and decide if you need it. then cut it off accordingly (if you need it, leave lots of wire so you can tap it in somewhere. if not, cut as much off as possible).

really? just manuals, I assume.... the '93-'94 FWD 5MT impreza axles will work in legacies. I've got a feeler out on the local forum, if not, the junkyard that has the D/R has some axles that should work....but they actually want money for them.

cool. I've got one. start a for sale thread.

yea, forgot to list the rear diff. I'm not sure either on the starter. it's definitely mounted differently to work with the different flywheel. either way, I have an EA82 one....

Help me double check this list. thinking of putting a standard PT4WD EA82 D/R into my dad's '94 LGT. it needs a new clutch/tranny anyway, and he does a lot of freeway miles, so would benefit from the FWD mode. Tranny Linkage Adapter Plate Flywheel Starter Clutch kit Xmember (I think the front legacy xmember could be modified to work with the EA82 mounts) Lengthened driveshaft 23-spline axles

the electric fan is ONLY wired through the thermoswitch in the radiator. it is unaffected by the A/C system. So, the only way to insure airflow when the A/C system is on without re-wiring the car is have a fan that runs all the time. and yes, it is clutched. here's a picture of me holding the fan stopped while the engine is running: yea, the A/C system doesn't cause any resistance on the motor. But, it's weight. IMHO, if it doesn't work, yank it out. I always have. ditto on the clutch fan. maybe it doesn't cause much resistance, but it is spinning, and isn't needed. chuck it. 4 10mm nuts, pull it off, throw 2 or 3 washers on each stud, put the nuts back on, you're golden.

or, get it here: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/1992_Legacy_ECU_I-O.pdf

yea, that's about right. an EG33 in a GC coupe will hang with stage 2 STis

hold up, all your references (AFAIK) are part-time 4WD vehicles. little differences like that are fine off-road with a locked center. But that's not really applicable to a EJ VLSD AWD drivetrain. let's say you're running 30" tires. at 70mph, that's 784 rotations. 4.10 R&P = 3,214.4rpm 4.111 = 3,223 8.6 rpm difference at speed typically speaking, subarus can tolerate a max of 2/32s difference in tread depth. so that's 4/32s in overall tire diameter. stock WRX tire size of 24.87" = 945.42 rpm @ 70 * 4.111 = 3,886.6 that minus 4/32s is 24.75" = 950.19 = 3,906.2 19.6 rpm difference at speed. so...yea. you should be fine.

check your coolant temp sensor. maybe the ECU is thinking the engine is cold.