Numbchux

Dang! Nice Consider me Jealous. I broke my personal record with the XT6 this weekend.....23.4 :-\

I always thought EJ and XT6 hubs were the same, except for the ABS tone ring mounts (although I don't know what market the '6 got ABS) and the 2 little bolts to hold the rotor on. But, not too long ago, we did new bearings in my dad's legacy. I had problems getting the inner race off, so I just grabbed a spare XT6 one off the shelf and put it in. fit perfectly (duh). Got it all together, everything went great. Then, we went to put the brakes on, and the rotor was too far out. the caliper bracket would barely clear. But, the brake caliper mounts have different spacing, and (as mentioned) the strut mounts are different. So you definitely have an EJ hub with XT6 everything-else.

So, a friend has this '84 Brat. It's VERY rusty. but in this part of the world, they're rare, and we don't want to throw it. it's already got a standard home-built 4" lift and 29" A/Ts on it, and it's pretty fun. but it's time to go to the next level. due to the rust, relying on the unibody for structure is not a good idea at this point. And, we're thinking solid axles and a blown EJ22e are in it's near future. SO, looking for ideas on the frame. any of you guys that have done it have some good pictures? suggestions for existing frames that might work well (I suggested Nissan hardbody...but I haven't taken any measurements or anything)?

welder and power tools won't help you. mechanically it'll all fit pretty well. driveshafts will have to be modified (and balanced), for BOTH cars. and like I said, you'll need TWO spare bulkhead wiring harnesses. Also, both swaps are going to require a plethora of misc hoses and such. cost of an extra harness and extra driveshaft modification would be similar to just buying another EJ22. with zero downtime to the legacy. Even ignoring the performance loss (which would be substantial). it's not a logical idea. And then put that performance loss back in, and consider that the fuel efficiency would take a noticeable hit as a result. Take our advice. it's not a good idea! If your budget is effectively zero.....leave both cars as they are!!!

Nice! I don't think I could trace that accurately :-\

possible. But, not smart. It would be a lot of work (and you'd have to source extra wiring harnesses for both cars), for a substantially less reliable and less powerful motor in the legacy. Just look elsewhere for your donor.

unless it's got a WRX motor hiding in there, it's not going for $2k!! A freshly rebuilt EA81 with a warranty might go for $2k, but not a used one. If it could drive itself up onto a trailer, and pretty low miles, and depending on your location (scarcity of parts), it might be worth a couple hundred. In this part of the world, EA81 parts are pretty hard to come by. if I had a brat, and room for a parts car, I'd offer him $200, and not a penny more.

ALL EA's have 36. and ALL EJ's are 32. ERs are some of each. the front hubs/knuckles/brakes and such on an XT6 are almost identical to EJ design. Rears are just EA82s with different hubs.

Much better idea: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=111709 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110400 Looks like this will make it much easier to get a tough transmission/tcase combo under a subaru. AND probably do it in a more compact package than any other divorced tcase option...which means less lift. If I were building a lifted subaru. I would be all over this!! But I've already made the switch to toyota....

I am sure. 32mm in the front, 36mm in the rear.

got a set of motor mounts for a '60s comaro. same bolt config on the engine, but lower profile (part # listed in the AA instructions). Installed them today, and everything lines right up. engine sits a healthy inch lower now. so hood clearance looks like it'll work out. There's still oxygen between oil pan and front diff, but only just. I might massage that corner of the oil pan a bit to be sure. engine is moved a bit further forward. I will have to adjust the motor mount adapters to the next notch back (which should help the vertical clearance a bit). I really don't understand why people were moving their tcase back to do this swap! I've got the tcase on the stock xmember now, and a good 1.5" gap between engine and transmission. with plenty of room for radiator and electric fan in front of that. Budbuilt xmember is ordered. as well as his shock mount setup: should make u-bolt flip easier, and improve flex

in the US (I'm assuming this is where you are....), a '93 legacy turbo would be an EJ22t everything else has been covered.

I believe, un-plugging the IAC should cause it to quit. if the valve is closed, and the throttle plate is closed.....engine should die. I think . Is your cable tight? possibly too tight? CEL gets a ground from the ECU, not power. maybe you know that and just typed it backwards, but thought I'd make sure.

Excellent!! What did you decide for a color scheme?

Overdue update..... Transmission was "rebuilt" (all the labor, only 1st gear clutches were replaced) by a buddy, and new output shaft installed. Toyota tcase bolted up to it, and in the truck (sitting on the stock crossmember, so 2" too low, and the front hanging on straps). Toyota shifter and center console removed. yea, really looks like I'll be able to use the toyota shifter (as my truck was an auto). sweet! 4Crawler 2" body lift is installed. Also got 2" motor mount spacers with it to raise the engine/transmission a bit. Spent some time this week, and put the engine in. Looks like I need different motor mounts.....and possibly some hood clearance.... But, with the 2" drivetrain lift, the oil pan clears the front diff just fine. pics:

that's what an 02 sensor is for. if you think you're fuel mixture is off, replace the sensor. your tail pipe is way too short, and pointed right at the bumper. I'm surprised it didn't set fire sooner

nice side skirts

if you keep the part-time 4wd, 30mpg+ is definitely possible. my loyale, with the FT4WD box in it, never got above about 27.

wiring diagram for an EA82 instrument cluster. this is how I've gotten it in the past: http://numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/Loyale%20Instrument%20Panel%20Wiring.pdf

awesome. actually makes me sad that I'm not driving my 4EAT XT6....huh...never thought I'd say that good work!

got home a couple days ago, but still recovering. Our driver/owner, Carl, just posted a write-up with a bunch of pictures and a video from the event.

I got a rear diff drop block from him years ago. great quality. I've also seen a couple of his adapter plates. mmmmmmm Everything I've seen of his looks great. and the best part, is he's using his cars, and changing/improving his products to optimize them (for cost and functionality).

it all depends how thorough of a job you want to do, and how much your parts cost. And those are HUUUUGGGEEEEEE variables. Let's assume you get a working donor car with the motor and transmission parts you need. Here's what I would buy/have bought and how much it costs (looked these all up just now. shipping not included). Timing set w/ water pump. PCI set from ebay. ~$125 Crank/Cam seals. smallcar.com. $30 (12 for crank, 9ea for cam) Beck/Arnley clutch kit from rockauto. $200 I charge $250 for the harness modification figure $50 in hoses. another $50 in fluids. ~50 or so in an aftermarket slim fan. probably $100 for the driveshaft modification tranny xmember will require custom fabbing, so that might add to the cost. EJ shift linkage will probably be pretty close to what you need. front axles. suspension/brake setup. EPIC variables there, so I'll ignore it for now. So, for all that...$855, plus cost of the donor, plus shipping. Of course, there's $350ish in maintenence parts that would not necessarily need to be replaced. but I would not recommend doing all the work of the swap and leaving old parts in there.

convert your hubs to 6-lug. or sell them (they have value. if you were local to me, I'd pay for 'em), and buy some steelies that can be converted.

We'll be there with #171 Open Class 2004 Subaru STi. I'm crew chief....stop in and say hi if anyone here is there. I usually wear my USMB shirt to parc expose one day or the other.