Numbchux

wow, polished exhaust heatshields........I never thought

got out the dremel with a sanding drum on it.....and just finished. measured the depth between every tooth, and they all measured between 0.169 and 0.171 (used to be 0.186, old one was 0.170). Did a dry run. reverse engages, and I can spin the input shaft without any noise or binding. definitely an improvement.....I think I'll rock it and see how it works out.

bought a digital caliper. yep, the idler shaft is .04" further from the main shaft on the '01 case than it is on the '88 or '93. and it appears that the teeth on the reverse gear on the input shaft are larger on the RS. so even if I use the smaller reverse gear, I still have .015" less clearance than stock. I'm tempted to run them across the grinder for a moment.....what could go wrong? :-\

that was my thought as well. maybe I'll be sure not to pull anyone out of a ditch in reverse, or anything like that .

Back Story (skip to the * for the basics and question): I've got an '88 XT6, as my profile says. I bought it with 2 teeth broken off 2nd gear. So, I bought a '94 impreza 1.8l AWD 4.111 transmission, and made a frankentranny. I used all the internals from the EJ transmission, as well as the 1-2 shift fork (slightly wider), speedo gear (smaller), and center diff housing. Well, when I put it back together, I did not use high-temp sealant for the case. This was not a problem for almost 10k miles. Last weekend, I drove across the state. mid 80* temps, car fully loaded, bike on the roof. apparently, I got an air bubble in the cooling system, which prevented the tstat from opening, as a result, I was able to keep the heat on to prevent the engine temp from getting too hot, but everything behind the engine got very hot, the speedo and clutch cables began to stick. Apparently it also cooked the transmission seals, as I checked the fluid before the trip and it was fine, and when I drained it later only about a half quart came out. * 3 days after returning, the rear bearing on the output shaft seized. I picked up an '01 2.5RS transmission locally. today I pulled the trans out, and got them both torn apart. I got the RS internals laid in the XT6 case and everything lined up perfectly. EXCEPT, the RS reverse idler gear is larger. too large, in fact. I swapped them, but found that if the input shaft is fully seated in the case, I cannot engage reverse. if I pull the input shaft a couple tenths of an inch off the case, it'll work fine. The only way I can imagine this to be an issue, is if the shaft for the idler gear is a bit further away from the main shaft. looking at the trans charts, it appears that all subaru 5MTs switched from a 3.416 reverse gear to a 3.333 (except the '97-'98 imprezas which had the 3.333 as well) in '99, so I suppose it's possible that the case changed. Am I missing something? I don't consider myself to be a tranny expert, but other than the fluid leak, the other setup worked wonderfully. What are my chances of getting away with using the smaller idler gear? it has the same number of teeth (26), and appears to mesh pretty well with the other 2.....

DANG!! That thing's clean!!

I did not check. but I highly doubt it. both of the flywheels in question were from '85-'86 carbed EA82s. And both were on the original clutch when I got them. not likely that they came with the lighter version, and no way were they machined down.

I've used an XT6 kit with an un-modified EA82 wheel many times. no problems. even had my loyale apart (swapped from FT4WD to PT4WD before I sold it last fall), and everything looked fine. re-used the ki, it's probably got 30k on it now.

agreed. don't sweat it. I've driven more than a few miles with one timing belt. unfortunately the driver's side belt seems more common to fail in my cases....at which point you loose your ignition (distributor driven by driver's side cam). I've said it before. The EA82 is probably the worst motor subaru has ever made (well, the turbo versions anyway), but that says more about how bulletproof ALL subaru engines are, as the EA82 is still a pretty great motor.

yea looks like a solid setup. I just received all those parts a couple days ago. and I'm very impressed. very well made, and the xmember and it's skidplate (2 pieces) are very beefy! way cool!! I think I'll grab a pair of these Rancho's to go with it: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAN-RS5012/

funny thing, is the part-time 4WD Ea82 5MT has the same gear ratios (or taller) as the EJs. Just smaller tires.

Dang! Nice Consider me Jealous. I broke my personal record with the XT6 this weekend.....23.4 :-\

I always thought EJ and XT6 hubs were the same, except for the ABS tone ring mounts (although I don't know what market the '6 got ABS) and the 2 little bolts to hold the rotor on. But, not too long ago, we did new bearings in my dad's legacy. I had problems getting the inner race off, so I just grabbed a spare XT6 one off the shelf and put it in. fit perfectly (duh). Got it all together, everything went great. Then, we went to put the brakes on, and the rotor was too far out. the caliper bracket would barely clear. But, the brake caliper mounts have different spacing, and (as mentioned) the strut mounts are different. So you definitely have an EJ hub with XT6 everything-else.

So, a friend has this '84 Brat. It's VERY rusty. but in this part of the world, they're rare, and we don't want to throw it. it's already got a standard home-built 4" lift and 29" A/Ts on it, and it's pretty fun. but it's time to go to the next level. due to the rust, relying on the unibody for structure is not a good idea at this point. And, we're thinking solid axles and a blown EJ22e are in it's near future. SO, looking for ideas on the frame. any of you guys that have done it have some good pictures? suggestions for existing frames that might work well (I suggested Nissan hardbody...but I haven't taken any measurements or anything)?

welder and power tools won't help you. mechanically it'll all fit pretty well. driveshafts will have to be modified (and balanced), for BOTH cars. and like I said, you'll need TWO spare bulkhead wiring harnesses. Also, both swaps are going to require a plethora of misc hoses and such. cost of an extra harness and extra driveshaft modification would be similar to just buying another EJ22. with zero downtime to the legacy. Even ignoring the performance loss (which would be substantial). it's not a logical idea. And then put that performance loss back in, and consider that the fuel efficiency would take a noticeable hit as a result. Take our advice. it's not a good idea! If your budget is effectively zero.....leave both cars as they are!!!

Nice! I don't think I could trace that accurately :-\

possible. But, not smart. It would be a lot of work (and you'd have to source extra wiring harnesses for both cars), for a substantially less reliable and less powerful motor in the legacy. Just look elsewhere for your donor.

unless it's got a WRX motor hiding in there, it's not going for $2k!! A freshly rebuilt EA81 with a warranty might go for $2k, but not a used one. If it could drive itself up onto a trailer, and pretty low miles, and depending on your location (scarcity of parts), it might be worth a couple hundred. In this part of the world, EA81 parts are pretty hard to come by. if I had a brat, and room for a parts car, I'd offer him $200, and not a penny more.

ALL EA's have 36. and ALL EJ's are 32. ERs are some of each. the front hubs/knuckles/brakes and such on an XT6 are almost identical to EJ design. Rears are just EA82s with different hubs.

Much better idea: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=111709 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110400 Looks like this will make it much easier to get a tough transmission/tcase combo under a subaru. AND probably do it in a more compact package than any other divorced tcase option...which means less lift. If I were building a lifted subaru. I would be all over this!! But I've already made the switch to toyota....

I am sure. 32mm in the front, 36mm in the rear.

got a set of motor mounts for a '60s comaro. same bolt config on the engine, but lower profile (part # listed in the AA instructions). Installed them today, and everything lines right up. engine sits a healthy inch lower now. so hood clearance looks like it'll work out. There's still oxygen between oil pan and front diff, but only just. I might massage that corner of the oil pan a bit to be sure. engine is moved a bit further forward. I will have to adjust the motor mount adapters to the next notch back (which should help the vertical clearance a bit). I really don't understand why people were moving their tcase back to do this swap! I've got the tcase on the stock xmember now, and a good 1.5" gap between engine and transmission. with plenty of room for radiator and electric fan in front of that. Budbuilt xmember is ordered. as well as his shock mount setup: should make u-bolt flip easier, and improve flex

in the US (I'm assuming this is where you are....), a '93 legacy turbo would be an EJ22t everything else has been covered.

I believe, un-plugging the IAC should cause it to quit. if the valve is closed, and the throttle plate is closed.....engine should die. I think . Is your cable tight? possibly too tight? CEL gets a ground from the ECU, not power. maybe you know that and just typed it backwards, but thought I'd make sure.

Excellent!! What did you decide for a color scheme?