Numbchux

Much better idea: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=111709 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110400 Looks like this will make it much easier to get a tough transmission/tcase combo under a subaru. AND probably do it in a more compact package than any other divorced tcase option...which means less lift. If I were building a lifted subaru. I would be all over this!! But I've already made the switch to toyota....

I am sure. 32mm in the front, 36mm in the rear.

got a set of motor mounts for a '60s comaro. same bolt config on the engine, but lower profile (part # listed in the AA instructions). Installed them today, and everything lines right up. engine sits a healthy inch lower now. so hood clearance looks like it'll work out. There's still oxygen between oil pan and front diff, but only just. I might massage that corner of the oil pan a bit to be sure. engine is moved a bit further forward. I will have to adjust the motor mount adapters to the next notch back (which should help the vertical clearance a bit). I really don't understand why people were moving their tcase back to do this swap! I've got the tcase on the stock xmember now, and a good 1.5" gap between engine and transmission. with plenty of room for radiator and electric fan in front of that. Budbuilt xmember is ordered. as well as his shock mount setup: should make u-bolt flip easier, and improve flex

in the US (I'm assuming this is where you are....), a '93 legacy turbo would be an EJ22t everything else has been covered.

I believe, un-plugging the IAC should cause it to quit. if the valve is closed, and the throttle plate is closed.....engine should die. I think . Is your cable tight? possibly too tight? CEL gets a ground from the ECU, not power. maybe you know that and just typed it backwards, but thought I'd make sure.

Excellent!! What did you decide for a color scheme?

Overdue update..... Transmission was "rebuilt" (all the labor, only 1st gear clutches were replaced) by a buddy, and new output shaft installed. Toyota tcase bolted up to it, and in the truck (sitting on the stock crossmember, so 2" too low, and the front hanging on straps). Toyota shifter and center console removed. yea, really looks like I'll be able to use the toyota shifter (as my truck was an auto). sweet! 4Crawler 2" body lift is installed. Also got 2" motor mount spacers with it to raise the engine/transmission a bit. Spent some time this week, and put the engine in. Looks like I need different motor mounts.....and possibly some hood clearance.... But, with the 2" drivetrain lift, the oil pan clears the front diff just fine. pics:

that's what an 02 sensor is for. if you think you're fuel mixture is off, replace the sensor. your tail pipe is way too short, and pointed right at the bumper. I'm surprised it didn't set fire sooner

nice side skirts

if you keep the part-time 4wd, 30mpg+ is definitely possible. my loyale, with the FT4WD box in it, never got above about 27.

wiring diagram for an EA82 instrument cluster. this is how I've gotten it in the past: http://numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/Loyale%20Instrument%20Panel%20Wiring.pdf

awesome. actually makes me sad that I'm not driving my 4EAT XT6....huh...never thought I'd say that good work!

got home a couple days ago, but still recovering. Our driver/owner, Carl, just posted a write-up with a bunch of pictures and a video from the event.

I got a rear diff drop block from him years ago. great quality. I've also seen a couple of his adapter plates. mmmmmmm Everything I've seen of his looks great. and the best part, is he's using his cars, and changing/improving his products to optimize them (for cost and functionality).

it all depends how thorough of a job you want to do, and how much your parts cost. And those are HUUUUGGGEEEEEE variables. Let's assume you get a working donor car with the motor and transmission parts you need. Here's what I would buy/have bought and how much it costs (looked these all up just now. shipping not included). Timing set w/ water pump. PCI set from ebay. ~$125 Crank/Cam seals. smallcar.com. $30 (12 for crank, 9ea for cam) Beck/Arnley clutch kit from rockauto. $200 I charge $250 for the harness modification figure $50 in hoses. another $50 in fluids. ~50 or so in an aftermarket slim fan. probably $100 for the driveshaft modification tranny xmember will require custom fabbing, so that might add to the cost. EJ shift linkage will probably be pretty close to what you need. front axles. suspension/brake setup. EPIC variables there, so I'll ignore it for now. So, for all that...$855, plus cost of the donor, plus shipping. Of course, there's $350ish in maintenence parts that would not necessarily need to be replaced. but I would not recommend doing all the work of the swap and leaving old parts in there.

convert your hubs to 6-lug. or sell them (they have value. if you were local to me, I'd pay for 'em), and buy some steelies that can be converted.

We'll be there with #171 Open Class 2004 Subaru STi. I'm crew chief....stop in and say hi if anyone here is there. I usually wear my USMB shirt to parc expose one day or the other.

you need to nail down your power goals if you're even slightly serious about this. This is ALWAYS step one in an automotive build. eagle and wiseco are similar quality, which is better than stock, but only just. External dimensions of EJ-series shortblocks are near enough to identical. as a rule (there are some exceptions, but not many), the intake manifold has to match the heads. So yes, you definitely could take a 257 shortblock, and throw it in place of your 25D block. bolt on the heads, intake, etc. also the 25D heads flow very well, and the passenger side one has pretty obvious places in the casting that can be drilled/tapped for your oil lines relatively easily. The build you're talking about is possible, and has been done. but I wouldn't call it reliable (beyond about 10k miles) at more than 250hp. a stock 257 block can take much more than that. and you're probably talking about similar cost. when you consider the parts and labor for this hybrid build v. buying a complete and stock 257 block, but of course there are a lot of cost variables depending on your parts sources.

if you want true 4x4. you have to use an EA-series transmission. which will promptly blow up unless you drive like an old woman. although the DCCD in full-lock mode is close enough. do it right, and get a 6MT.

There will be some machining involved to use a phase 2 crank in the phase 1 bock (thrust bearing is moved from #3 to #5). But why replace the crank? if you're assuming the block is usable, than you're assuming the crank is too. What kind of horsepower are you looking at making? You're talking about a pretty peculiar build. spend the money on CP pistons, but then cheap out and use Eagle rods and a 25D block. IMHO, if you're only shooting for 200-250, use wisecos. if you're looking for more than that, put your CPs in a full 257 shortblock. water pump is interchangeable as far as the block is concerned. coolant bridge is also interchangeable, and independent of the water pump

http://www.rallitek.com/ might want to find a different name.

Nice! a freshly installed lift is a great feeling

yea, get a new, all metal, 2 core one from http://www.usaradiator.com I've used their single-core on a couple EJ swaps, and I really like them. I'm thinking of using their 2-core one on my XT6 (since nobody makes them for the XT...).

I think I'd start with the rod ends. if you've got a little play in one, it could allow your toe to change a bit on one side.

EJ Y-pipes are only marginally better. real unequal length header: