Numbchux

Yep, but a bracket on the side of the trans to mount the cable to is easy. WAY easier than trying to retrofit a hydraulic clutch pedal assembly into an EA81. If it complicates the design too much, that's fine. we'll make do if/when we get going. But, it would make it more easily applicable into more cars.

would be nice if either one could be used. For those of us thinking of using this to tcase an older car, it'd be nice not to have to convert to hydraulic.

I see......hmmmm

well, if this holds true. no swapping or modifying of the pressure plate will be necessary. subaru pressure plate and subaru clutch fork = subaru throwout bearing. which means, if you need something better, get an upgraded pressure plate for a push-style subaru. done.

Sorry....done doing that. did it twice, and both times I spent more time on the phone trying to explain it than it would have taken to just do it myself on my own schedule. if you have questions, feel free to post them here and I'll offer my insight when I can, but that's about it. :-\ I just spent a few minutes looking over diagrams.....The only thing that I see that would cause an issue using a newer TCU is the "torque control" wires. The SVX only has one signal wire from the ECU, and the newer systems have 3 (torque control signal 1 and 2, and torque control cut signal). the chart says all these pins would read 5v....so I don't know what that means. Everything else would work just fine (TPS signal range is the same, tach signal could be modified, and all other sensors would not be effected by the swap).

Wow, I don't usually check the transplants section. first off, I HIGHLY doubt that you would be the first to SVX swap a forester. not to rain on your parade or anything, but it's not an uncommon swap into other platforms.....essentially identical project to an impreza swap. Next, what year is your forester? I don't see any reason why your TCU wouldn't work. most of the sensors are standalone. but I'll have to look for sure. Don't have time now, but I'll try to look later tonight. only concern is the rpm signal, as it's calibrated differently. but you can get a Tach Signal Divider that would correct that. just have to get your TCU signal after the Divider. I've done the wiring for probably 8 EG33 swaps, most into GC imprezas (which would be almost identical to your forester), but a couple Legacies. I even have an extra Tach Signal Divider here on my desk (I was planning on putting a 4-cyl digi dash in my XT6....but that isn't going to happen) A/C would be very difficult, but possible. with the EG in there, there isn't much room for radiator and fans, much less a condenser as well.....unless you aren't attached to your bumper. Also, as tempting as it sounds, I have heard specific negative reviews of ECUtune setups from a very reputable source. Save your money, IMHO.

no, it doesn't. the turbo transmissions are geared differently, so despite the 3.70 axle ratios, you'd be turning higher rpm in 5th. also, IMHO the FT4WD is awful. True AWD would be a drastic improvement, and worth the drop in mileage. But FT4WD is the worst of both worlds. I've put tens of thousands of miles on all 3 setups in many conditions (rally, ice racing, wheeling, daily driving, autocrossing), and will go out of my way to avoid FT4WD. convert the LSD to 3.9, and be done with it. easier, and better. swapping the whole rear suspension isn't bad either, I've done it many times. and using a Turbo donor, you'll gain a rear sway bar, which really helps keep the car planted on the road.

Awesome. I've got a project in the planning stages that might need one of these.....so I'll be watching this closely.

if you're interested, I could make a standalone 4EAT harness with the stuff I have around. I think the last one I did, I pulled the trans control stuff out together instead of cutting it. Would probably only require half a dozen splices to install. let me know if you're interested, and I'll look more closely into it next week and give you some more detailed info.

easier than an engine swap.....but similar. I highly disagree with the above statement, it's definitely do-able, and probably easier than getting a new car and modding it to your liking. mechanically, not any more difficult than the other way around. driveshaft, crossmember, starter, torque converter, shifter/cable, pedal box, etc. wiring would be interesting. same idea as an engine swap, donor harness, remove all wiring related to transmission control, and integrate into your harness. Or, just swap the whole bulkhead harness. pulling the dash out isn't too bad, and will make the pedal swap much easier. and get a BD 2.2/4EAT donor harness, and swap it. Done!

logic > you

WOW!!! that looks awesome. I don't think I've seen the splitter you've added to the front lip. looks great! and I bet it works too

No, the crank and cam sensors do not NEED to be shielded. I had a problem with the wiring for the crank sensor on my wagon, and just ran 3 separate wires and it worked fine. it's been like that for probably 20k miles. I would consider that a last resort though. the shielding is a good idea to ensure that you have an accurate reading on those sensors. '92 legacy engine wiring diagram can be found on my site: http://numbchuxconversions.com/downloads.htm you might find the plugs between bulkhead and engine harness to be different, but everything else will be the same.

from what I can tell, all transmissions went to the taller reverse gear in '99, which is also the year that they changed the center diff. so I assume they're all different. result: something isn't working right. the shifter rod from the RS center section doesn't seem to engage the shifters in the XT6 front case. I'm not exactly sure what's up, but I've come to the conclusion that it won't work.... which means in order to get this car to work at all, I need to find another transmission, tear them both down, again, and install. and still have a car in need of a lot of work that will probably turn into a cloud of rust-dust in a year or so..... going to look at a '91 Integra tomorrow. XT6s are for sale as-is, otherwise I will probably part out the '88.

wow, polished exhaust heatshields........I never thought

got out the dremel with a sanding drum on it.....and just finished. measured the depth between every tooth, and they all measured between 0.169 and 0.171 (used to be 0.186, old one was 0.170). Did a dry run. reverse engages, and I can spin the input shaft without any noise or binding. definitely an improvement.....I think I'll rock it and see how it works out.

bought a digital caliper. yep, the idler shaft is .04" further from the main shaft on the '01 case than it is on the '88 or '93. and it appears that the teeth on the reverse gear on the input shaft are larger on the RS. so even if I use the smaller reverse gear, I still have .015" less clearance than stock. I'm tempted to run them across the grinder for a moment.....what could go wrong? :-\

that was my thought as well. maybe I'll be sure not to pull anyone out of a ditch in reverse, or anything like that .

Back Story (skip to the * for the basics and question): I've got an '88 XT6, as my profile says. I bought it with 2 teeth broken off 2nd gear. So, I bought a '94 impreza 1.8l AWD 4.111 transmission, and made a frankentranny. I used all the internals from the EJ transmission, as well as the 1-2 shift fork (slightly wider), speedo gear (smaller), and center diff housing. Well, when I put it back together, I did not use high-temp sealant for the case. This was not a problem for almost 10k miles. Last weekend, I drove across the state. mid 80* temps, car fully loaded, bike on the roof. apparently, I got an air bubble in the cooling system, which prevented the tstat from opening, as a result, I was able to keep the heat on to prevent the engine temp from getting too hot, but everything behind the engine got very hot, the speedo and clutch cables began to stick. Apparently it also cooked the transmission seals, as I checked the fluid before the trip and it was fine, and when I drained it later only about a half quart came out. * 3 days after returning, the rear bearing on the output shaft seized. I picked up an '01 2.5RS transmission locally. today I pulled the trans out, and got them both torn apart. I got the RS internals laid in the XT6 case and everything lined up perfectly. EXCEPT, the RS reverse idler gear is larger. too large, in fact. I swapped them, but found that if the input shaft is fully seated in the case, I cannot engage reverse. if I pull the input shaft a couple tenths of an inch off the case, it'll work fine. The only way I can imagine this to be an issue, is if the shaft for the idler gear is a bit further away from the main shaft. looking at the trans charts, it appears that all subaru 5MTs switched from a 3.416 reverse gear to a 3.333 (except the '97-'98 imprezas which had the 3.333 as well) in '99, so I suppose it's possible that the case changed. Am I missing something? I don't consider myself to be a tranny expert, but other than the fluid leak, the other setup worked wonderfully. What are my chances of getting away with using the smaller idler gear? it has the same number of teeth (26), and appears to mesh pretty well with the other 2.....

DANG!! That thing's clean!!

I did not check. but I highly doubt it. both of the flywheels in question were from '85-'86 carbed EA82s. And both were on the original clutch when I got them. not likely that they came with the lighter version, and no way were they machined down.

I've used an XT6 kit with an un-modified EA82 wheel many times. no problems. even had my loyale apart (swapped from FT4WD to PT4WD before I sold it last fall), and everything looked fine. re-used the ki, it's probably got 30k on it now.

agreed. don't sweat it. I've driven more than a few miles with one timing belt. unfortunately the driver's side belt seems more common to fail in my cases....at which point you loose your ignition (distributor driven by driver's side cam). I've said it before. The EA82 is probably the worst motor subaru has ever made (well, the turbo versions anyway), but that says more about how bulletproof ALL subaru engines are, as the EA82 is still a pretty great motor.

yea looks like a solid setup. I just received all those parts a couple days ago. and I'm very impressed. very well made, and the xmember and it's skidplate (2 pieces) are very beefy! way cool!! I think I'll grab a pair of these Rancho's to go with it: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAN-RS5012/

funny thing, is the part-time 4WD Ea82 5MT has the same gear ratios (or taller) as the EJs. Just smaller tires.