Numbchux

knock sensor bolt torqued to spec? that can cause a bad reading if it's over or under torqued.

you have to split the transmission case. no small project. IMHO not worth it to just swap axle stubs. I don't know, I haven't actually run the 23-spline EJ axles, but I have seen them in person, out of the car. they don't seem terribly under-built. I think if they were run at a reasonable angle and you didn't abuse them too badly, they'd probably hold up fine.

any CEL codes? if it's a major issue, I think you'd be throwing a code somewhere...

doesn't sound at all like a fuel pump symptom that I know of. That pump would be plenty of pressure and volume (assuming it's working correctly). Could be a MAF, PCV valve, IAC or even TPS issue.

EA20s/22s don't exist. your EA82 is the biggest motor of that generation. You can get EJ series motors. an EJ22 swap is not too bad. but really depends on your definition of "breaking the bank"....

This is hopeless. I'm done.

I had another attempt to tell you what I meant by that post. But since you're just skimming through the thread looking for stuff to fight about, I decided not to bother. I was just throwing out a teaser that we have a big-hp RWD project on the drawing board. (see the period? That's all. end of thought. don't try to read between the lines) Bill. Keep up the amazing work! I'll be watching closely, and if things go in that direction, I'll be in touch!

a LOT more than the devil ever made. Read my post again. I do NOT think that one design is inherently superior than the other. Just that most options are designed for pull-style. I am more than aware what is possible. I was just hinting that this will be a big power build. Suffice it to say Ziptie is thinking of building something for Baja.

I will keep that in mind. as that will probably be a good idea. there were 2 different styles of pressure plate. push and pull. the pivot on that bellhousing will only work with push-style. All turbo transmissions use a pull. so off-the-shelf clutch kits are mostly the other kind. There are options, just not a ton. We'll see. a lot of other things have to happen first...

Found another possible use for this. Depending on how this next year goes with us in Rally-America. Challenge will be finding a suitable push-style clutch kit.

Ahhhh. That's a little different. I was thinking that was going to be your ride height....

phantom grip is not a locker. it's an LSD. and a crappy one at that.

The '85-'86 RX trans also had the 1.2, and it's PT4WD. but yea, only the RX low range is 1.2. N/A ones are 1.6

I have a W56 sans tcase and RX trans sitting right next to each other out on the slab. I should line them up and take a similar picture....

What kind of wheeling are you planning on doing? Something that big would just suck on the tight trails up here. I suppose if you're out on sand dunes or something it might work out pretty sweet.

3.5 x 4.1 = 14.3:1 yea, a 3.9 with a 1.6 low is a pretty big difference.

Wow! That is huge. I really don't see that much lift being necessary unless you're going up a lot in tire size. With the engine and transmission tucked up in the body like that, you're COG is going to be very high. Drop it down a foot and hack up the body

I think for timing marks as well

I forgot I had this video already uploaded to YouTube....this is WOT, and intentionally hard shifts. No pitch-stopper, and hadn't for a couple years at that point. I think the FT4WD helps....but it's still really solid.

for a legacy. you'd have to get the donor parts out of a canadian spec one for the trim and stuff to match. I've often wondered if the belts out of a '95-99 legacy would work. the trim probably wouldn't line up, but you could just drill a hole in the B-pillar trim, and from there, the rest of the system is pretty simple.

my Loyale never had a pitch stopper after the swap. it's been running for about 5 years. easily 50k miles now. zero problems. one of the motor mounts was torn when I put a fresher motor in it last year. But it had about 285k on it...so that doesn't surprise me. +1 for other problems.

^EA82s without A/C have the electric fan. he didn't say remove both of them. just the clutch fan. reason? convenience mostly. That thing is a PITA to work around. and if the clutch isn't working perfectly, some hp and mpg

AH! I forgot about that. Fair enough. Your other points are valid, but I'd still rather substitute it for Low range or a viscous center.

That would ENTIRELY depend on how you drive it. yea, I bet if you engaged 4WD, you COULD blow it up in a few minutes. But if you were smart....it would last quite some time. I have seen no reason to suspect that an EA82 transmission is any less strong than early EJ ones. A friend of mine put a modded EJ205 in front of a '94 Legacy transmission with over 200k hard miles. After more than a year (including many ice racing and RallyX events), the clutch disc failed, but the transmission was still usable (synchro's getting rough...). Also, I don't know who told you the D/R would be weaker, but I want whatever they're on as it's obviously pretty good. That said, I would highly recommend using a different transmission for 2 reasons. A: clutch. the best clutch you can get off the shelf for the EA82 transmission is an XT6 clutch. which will not hold up to anywhere near the torque put out by an EJ205. B: a single-range PT4WD is pretty much the worst combination for any use. true 4WD is only good for slow-speed offroading. Which would be much better with a low range and no turbo. Street use means you're FWD....which doesn't really need explanation. And low traction circuits, a locked center just induces understeer (certainly with EA82 suspension geometry!). Going to an EJ-series AWD transmission will give you much better clutch options, and much better handling in most uses.

So....for the first time since they left the donor truck. The engine and transmission are bolted together. AND, they're bolted to the truck! just enough room for both oil senders back there. also got the OEM transmission dip-stick in there. I really don't know why people say you have to move the tcase back for this project. There's so much room for it otherwise. Also, took a picture of the tcase crossmember. nice! getting the engine and trans bolted together was a pain. now that everything is tight, the oil pan is touching the front diff.....So. diff will come out and I'll round off that corner with a hammer.