Numbchux

define "brand new axle assemblies". They are definitely not all created equal

get your hands on a hydraulic EJ pedal box. it'll all make sense then.

Hard to say, but I would bet 3" would be pushing it. Especially with the multilink rear end, I think you'd encounter some alignment and travel issues if you spaced the shocks more than a couple inches.

yea, should be just fine. In fact, using the EJ compressor would definitely be the way to go. Custom lines is not uncommon. Just go in with all 4 lines (2 from each donor car) and tell them what you want, and they'll crimp 'em together how you need it. If your EJ donor is new enough, you MIGHT run into issues using a compressor designed for r134a with the r12 system. But I think the biggest concern in the conversion is proper oiling for the compressor, so it might be better.... btw, the r134a conversion wasn't until the late '90s sometime, so there are lots of EJ cars designed for r12.

'92 Loyale RX transmission (25-spline axle stubs) XT-turbo rear trailing arms (sway bar mounts) XT6 sway bars, rear hubs/rotors/plates/caliper brackets, front control arms '92 FWD Legacy front knuckles, hubs, axles and struts. Also ebrake handle/cables '88 Nissan 200SX rear calipers '02 2.5RS front brakes Moog EA81 tie rod ends '02 Miata rear shocks Ground-Control coilover sleeve springs, 250 lb/in front, 275 rear Superpro poly bushings for the front sway bar and leading rods 17x8 +48 Rota Torques with 215/45r17 Kumho Ecsta ASTs

Yep. Sounds like what I was thinking. Seems like he could just use his existing TC and flexplate (from the 2.2) on the 2.5, and be golden. But I'm no expert, I rarely re-install ATs .

Yea, the flex plate has to match the transmission.... I'm not understanding this: "the EJ22 flexplate won't work."

Yea, I wouldn't put the 2.5 in there unless the 2.2 was completely junk. As I wouldn't put the 2.5 into anything without a complete reseal (head gaskets, and all gaskets needed for that project, heads rebuilt and checked for warping, timing set, etc.). the DOHC EJ25 is not a bad motor, in the grand scheme of things. But it is one of the weakest that subaru has ever made (Some out argue that it is the worst, but I think the EA82t is still one step down). Put about $600 worth of parts into it, and it's a great motor. But, you could put that same money into the 2.2, and have an indestructible motor. The high-compression 2.5 hybrid motor seems to be the latest fad here on the USMB. I am not a fan. It's been around, and been common for many years in the community, and IMO isn't worth it. I'll slap a turbo kit on a stock 2.2 every day of the week over the hybrid motor. this flex-plate issue is one I had not heard of. Gary, what's up with that? how could they possibly be different.....if you're talking about using the 2.2 flexplate with a 2.5 tq converter, the only thing that could be different is the crank bolt pattern, which I know is the same. What am I missing here?

transmission "strength" is a very difficult topic. As how it's driven has a HUGE effect on how long it holds up. A friend of mine bought a mostly stock (awful boy kit, and some LED interior lights....) with only about 100k miles on it. blown transmission AND rear diff. there's a guy here in MN with a stage 1 '06 WRX wagon. original trans rebuilt twice, and now he's got a new one in it (that's right, 3 failures), with about 80k on the clock. the RX (EA82, Full-time 4WD, Dual-Range) transmission in my loyale held up just fine, and definitely had close to 300k on it (I put about 40k on it, I know it had at least 150k on it when it came out of the original RX, and there was at least one car in between there). I wasn't exactly gentle on it, frequent autocrossing, rallycrossing, and ice racing. but always careful to be gentle on the shifter and clutch. The 1-5 gears in EA82 transmissions are extremely similar to those in the EJs. The dual-range trannies have a 2-piece input shaft, that does present another failure point, but I don't think it becomes an issue unless you have quite a bit of tq (at least 250 or so at the flywheel), and/or drive it like an idiot. Long story short, yea, an EA82 5MT trans should hold up just fine to stockish EJ22 power.

My former Loyale started life as a EA82 FWD 3AT. Since then it's had 2 different EJ22s in it, and 2 different 4WD 5MT transmisssions. It's more than possible. You'll have to decide what transmission would best fit your needs. an EA82 one, or EJ. The EJ AWD will have infinitely better road manners, and snow. But you'll pay at the pump, also you'll be in for some custom work mounting it. Or an EA82 Part-time 4WD one, you'll get the mileage (almost) of a FWD car, but still have 4WD when you want it. the 5-speed swap is fairly simple. for an EA82 one, you'll just need the crossmember, shift linkage, clutch cable, starter, flywheel, clutch assembly, driveshaft and pedal assembly from a car with a manual. You may also want the center console and shift boot. Gauge cluster will be different, but not plug-and-play (the plugs are the same, but the wires are in different places. all kinds of goofy lights will come on), I decided not worth the trouble, just to get rid of the "PRND21" indicators. swapping the pedal assembly is, by far, the hardest part of it. You'll want to un-bolt the steering column and lower it down, and then you should be able to sneak the old pedal box out and new one in. I would grab this stuff from a junkyard, or member on here. if you want an EJ transmission. your driveshaft will need to be modified. you'll need to use an EA82 one. An EA82 5MT shaft is 2" (I think? I've posted aobut it before, look for my post about the transmission swap in my '88 XT6) too long. but you might opt to just have your 3AT one lengthened, might be cheaper in the long run. You'll need different transmission crossmembers. The EJ transmission mount is further back, and They use 3 mounts, 2 that span across under the transmission, and a third in between the first 2. If you get those 2 from a 5MT XT6, they'll bolt right in, and allow you to use the center section from a first-gen legacy. Or....go custom. For shift linkage, you can use the EA82 5MT linkage, and just re-mount it about an inch further back. or modify the EJ linkage. Either way, I would ALWAYS recommend getting a donor car for the EJ swap (or any engine swap really). That way you know you have everything, and you can also verify that the engine runs like it should before you start. Which will greatly help if (when) it comes time to troubleshoot any problems with the swap. And I would not recommend going to the trouble of the swap, and leaving the 3AT in there!!

OEM or bust for axles. I know there are some that have had good luck with a couple brands, but I always just grab a junkyard axle and throw $20 worth of new boots at it, and had awesome luck.

yep, another vote for ball-joints. experienced it on a few cars (my '88 XT6, Loyale twice, and mom's '01 Legacy). Tie rod ends could also do it, but not quite as much. these 2 are very easy to check. Jack up the car, ebrake on, and wiggle the front wheels around. First put your hands near the bottom of the wheel, and pull straight in/out, you're feeling for play in the ball-joint, there should be zero noticeable movement. then put your hands on "3" and "9", and try to turn the wheel just like it would while steering, this looks for play in tie rod end. Whatever it is, the force of accelerating/decelerating is causing something to change in your suspension geometry. so look for play in any part of the suspension. But the ball-joint will have the biggest impact on making the car pull one way or the other. The leading rod bushings can only change caster, and while driving straight, it's going to take a big change there to make the car pull.

Sounds like my buddy still has the 2.2 out of his '95 impreza Lx from before his WRX swap. the bottom end is not in as good of shape as my dad's '94, but the intake and stuff might be worth pulling. Yea, I don't think the ECU swap would be necessary. But I think the '96 25D is the only one to recommend higher-octane fuel...and I'd much rather have the ignition maps designed for 87. Anyway, thanks you 2 for the help. I think that answers the questions I have.

rear 02 sensor has been failed for some time now....so the CEL has been on. So I really don't care if the EGR throws a code, as long as it still runs well. I need an OBD II 2.2 intake manifold? why couldn't I just use the 2.5 engine harness under the OBD I manifold? I've also got a 2.2 OBD II ECU sitting on the shelf. I might swap that out too so it's got the default fuel/ignition maps for the 2.2 and 87 octane (the '96 2.5 recommends 91...)

I know I've seen a dozen threads like this over the years, I searched and found some, but didn't find the answer I was looking for.... A friend of mine has a '96 Legacy Outback AT, EJ25D. Sounds like the headgasket blew. She needs quick turnaround, cheap, and reliable.....I don't have the time to reseal the motor anytime in the next few months..... BUT, my dad is parting out his '94 LGT. the tranny went on it, and due to rust, wasn't worth repairing. but has a good EJ22e. He replaced it with a very low-mileage '96 Legacy L, so he's still got a 22e, and probably won't need the spare. How much of a PITA would it be to put that OBD I 22e in the Outback? Obviously bellhousing, exhaust, etc. would all bolt up. I'm thinking with the 2.5 wiring and sensors (where needed), it should all work just fine.....right?

Unless you had 10' of leverage on there, you probably didn't overtorque the axle nut. Sounds like one of 2 things is causing the extra friction. the bearing, or the brakes. How was the grease in the bearings when you had it all apart? Did you crank the piston in enough to get the pads on there? the caliper should slide easily over the new pads. How was the condition of the slide pins? How did the old pads look? any signs that one side was wearing more than the other? (like that side is dragging all the time....)

Just spent a few minutes double-checking diagrams and such. Sounds like you've got it right. And if your fuel and volt meters work, you should have good power and ground to the cluster. And since the tach worked before, I'll assume the problem is not within the cluster itself. that leaves one wire, the signal wire. double check that it's the correct wire (if you mirrored the plug, and actually have B56, 9, that'd be the A/c switch....). Make sure that it's the Black w/ Blue stripe wire on pin 16, and not the Blue w/ Red wire on pin 9. If you've got the correct wire, pull the cluster, and check for continuity between that wire at the gauge cluster and the signal wire on the ECU.

Nope. works fine. the signal output from the EJ ECU is close enough to the signal coming off the coil. one pulse per spark. both the EJ swaps I did myself had the tach working 100% like stock. '96 EJ22e in an '86 EA82 GL and '92 EJ22e into '92 Loyale. Now, the '86 had problems with the gauge cluster before the swap, so it was replaced with a newer EA82 cluster, so I can't say FOR SURE that the '85-'86 cluster will work, but considering the '87+ cluster is plug and play into an '85-'86, I assume it wouldn't make any difference. Something is not functioning correctly. I've always grabbed the signal right at the plugs on the back of the gauge cluster (I think pulling the cluster is the easiest way to tap in all the signal wires for it), so I'm not sure if this could be an effect of where you tapped it in. I'm assuming all your other gauges work? the power/ground sources for the tach are shared with most of the other gauges too, so it's unlikely that only the one would fail.

^Why did you go to pusher fans? planning on doing the EJ swap later? there should be plenty of room for them as pullers, and they're much more efficient that way.

Those look about what I'd expect for the price. I'd spend about double that for something more effecient and possibly more reliable. Also, don't use the through-rad mounting things that it comes with. It's pretty easy to take a couple pieces of flat aluminum or steel (available at your local hardware store/home depot/menards/lowes/northern tool/harbor freight), cut to length, drill 4 holes in each, bolt the ends to the stock radiator mounts on the edges of the radiator, and ziptie the fan to them. That way you don't ruin the radiator core.

I haven't been hanging around rally long enough to have seen him race, but I've heard the name. And he certainly has the history of success. I'm excited! And I'm very glad that SRTUSA is fielding a second driver. The TP announcement seemed to be very sudden, and had me a bit worried about next year.

I didn't phrase that very well. KB is a very good driver. But I think there are a ton of other drivers who are much better, but Ken gets most of the credit because he's very good at marketing himself (Gymkhana vids, DC gumball cars, etc.). I've seen him in a few Super Specials over the last couple years, and I can't help think that he's a decent driver with an awesome car. Just irks me a bit when I hear people talking about KB like he's the greatest driver in the country. I won't be missing him in R-A a bit next year, plenty of awesome drivers still in it.

Might be 16s. fitment will depend on the rest of your setup.

OF COURSE that was not my intent!! Really? was I that unclear with this??

WAY better driving then Mr. Block is capable of (of course, that isn't saying much. He's awesome at marketing himself, not so much with the driving). Also, that car is RWD